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sw0cb posted:Any ideas where I can track down a factory service manual or clymers for a 2006 Zx-6r 636? Are the factory manuals any good? I know on cars they are my best friend. When I get home I'll post em up. I have the service, owner and parts manuals for 05-06.
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Mar 25, 2010 23:45
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Gnaghi posted:When I get home I'll post em up. I have the service, owner and parts manuals for 05-06. http://www.sirbrockman.com/
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Mar 26, 2010 01:27
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Ola posted:FI has a lot of potential though. (edit: for $$$ of course) I dream of a full Microsquirt setup with O2 sensors and high resolution injection/ignition maps. Error: Suzuki GSX750ES is corrupted I've been meaning to snap these pics and post up for awhile, how does my chain look? Needs replacement now or later? Previous owner took the bike to dealer, but from my experience that dealer employs a bunch of retards that don't actually fix anything, so I'm not sure if this is the original chain or not. It'll probably hit 30k by summer's end and I was planning a decent amount of work at that time (valve checks and such).  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.  Click here for the full 1200x900 image. Also I came across this yesterday on the Husky. Probably have to order that part, but in the meantime is it ok or creeping death?  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.
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Apr 16, 2010 17:43
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8ender posted:Looks pretty good for me. Check it for red spots (leaking o rings), stuck links, and slack. How close to the end is the tensioner? Cool, I'll check everything else once I pull it out since I gotta lube it anyway. Looks like the tensioner is right in the middle...and the locknut was loose.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:04
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Z3n posted:That's a rotor button and it's probably not the end of the world if you ride around with it missing for a short period of time. I would replace it asap though. Most of them are smooth but a bunch are a bit rough...dammit. So between the chain, sprockets and tools this is gonna be like $300 right? The bike has an extended warranty, but the dealer is sketchy enough that I don't want to take it there for anything outside of a transmission rebuild.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:35
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Z3n posted:Not a big deal. It might leak a bit, keep an eye on it, but it's probably fine. I wouldn't bother replacing it. Ok I guess? They are as pictured, mostly just dirty. I just thought that the sprockets and chain were always supposed to be replaced together. Now I remember that it has the -1/+2 setup so they can't be that old, certainly not original. As for the rotor button, the local dealer doesn't stock and can't order it. They tell me I'll have to buy a whole rotor for $330. Hopefully I can find an old rotor or another dealer that stocks it. 
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Apr 16, 2010 19:44
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Z3n posted:What the gently caress. The flat side (not pictured) is 13/16 of an inch in diameter, with the clipped side (in the picture) exactly 3/4. If you have anything, that'd be great! I sent an email to Halls Cycles (supposedly the top place for Husky parts) so hopefully they have it there. In meantime I'll try to slow it down in the twisties. Too much g-forces ripping off my rotor buttons. 
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Apr 16, 2010 20:15
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Z3n posted:Mine are smaller than that Thanks dude. I'm not too worried, riders on supermoto junkie have a few places that they claim to sell rotor buttons. Someone should have an old rotor they can ship me on there too, if that falls through.
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Apr 17, 2010 16:15
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Hopefully someone can find some for you, it'd be dumb to have to buy a whole new rotor just for the sake of a button.
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Z3n posted:I've had 30k+ on chains, and I always lube them cold (keep selling bikes before the chains wear out Doh. I've been taking my bike out every time...nope the chain isn't hot yet gotta ride it some more......ok now I can clean it. That crap is a pain. I use gas and a tooth brush/rag to clean mine, then lube it up with Belray. I was gonna replace it, but the PO said it only had 500 miles on it when I got it.
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Apr 29, 2010 03:04
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). I think that may be a holdover from the days of non-oring chains, but I have no idea.
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Question for Ninja 636 owners. I've been trying to remove the front sprocket (engine sprocket) on my Ninja and it is unbelievably tight. I've already broken a board I put across the rear wheel trying to break it loose, regular use of PB Blaster and am waiting on getting my Dad's torch to heat it up. I've read that the nut on there is NOT reverse thread, but really want to double check that that is the case. I'm fearing I'm going to break the whole shaft off of the engine at this point. 
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May 31, 2010 02:22
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sectoidman posted:Have you tried an impact wrench yet? Don't have one...or the air compressor to go with it. A lot of people on Kawi forums say it "comes right off with one" too, but I really don't want to spend $300+ to get this one nut off. I'd just leave it on before that happens.
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May 31, 2010 04:43
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sectoidman posted:What about one of these: Wow I never saw one of those before. I think, with a breaker bar and jack handle extension, I'm up in the 400ft-lbs range though. I'll try the torch and then go from there, maybe get an electric one.
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May 31, 2010 18:40
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How do these rivets look? I cranked down pretty hard on the breaker/riveter I bought but it doesn't seem like it did much. Click here for the full 1033x896 image.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:21
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Z3n posted:Looks pretty good to me, nicely flared out around the edges, which is all you need. Awesome. I cranked the thing down as I hard as I could and then later read that you're not supposed to do that, you can overflare/crack the rivet. Glad I didn't.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:26
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Are the wheel alignment markings on the rear axle a good guide to use, or is there a more precise method for alignment?
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Jun 4, 2010 23:28
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Oh ok. Didn't quite understand but I found pics of the string setup, thanks. http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/string_align_motorcycle_wheels/index.html
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Jun 5, 2010 01:02
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sectoidman posted:I've taken to measuring the distance from the center of the axle bolt to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides and making sure the two numbers match. Seems to work pretty well. Yeah that's what I did, but it runs over rearsets and pushes out the tape so it doesn't seem like it'd be accurate. frozenphil posted:I've heard good things about the Motion Pro chain alignment tool. I haven't picked one up myself yet, but all of the reviews I've read say that it is easy to use and accurate when checked against the string method. Seems like it would be a lot less hassle too. Huh, go figure...I bought one of these awhile back and just remembered that I had it in the basement!
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Jun 5, 2010 18:17
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I've been thinking of selling my 05 Ninja 636 a lot lately to buy a DRZ or maybe KLR to convert. The thing is that bike has 25k on the clock and rashy fairings, but a rebuilt trans and aftermarket warranty, as well as all the go fast/look good bits. About how much would high miles drop the value? There is really no shortage of similar sportbikes on CL, all having around 2k miles and selling for 5-6k. If I can't hope for 5k or more, I'd probably just keep the bike, as it's a solid commuter and comfortable for me.  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.
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Jun 28, 2010 17:46
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Phat_Albert posted:I'd say the mileage, rebuilt trans and rashyness are whats going to hurt you the most. drat, that's even lower than I figured. Option B is to bring it inside for the winter, overhaul it, and see how many miles I can pile on. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Why does your front fairing look like the stitching on a baseball? Original owner crashed and half repaired it (those are zip ties). Same dumbass who changed the gearing and didn't fix the speedo, so the mileage is artificially high.
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Jun 28, 2010 18:15
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Crayvex posted:Huh? What does gearing/engine speed have to do with the speedo? Did the PO change the tires size or something? He changed the engine sprocket to a smaller one without recalibrating the speedometer, which means it was always reading faster then the bike was actually going, thus counting on more miles. Edit: Argh, beaten with a better response.
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Jun 28, 2010 19:38
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Crayvex posted:Well I'll be damned. Is that why speedo healers are so common? I know that changing sprockets is much more common than changing wheel diameters. Yeah. I fixed it with a speedohealer, but they aren't as great as everyone makes them out to be. Overpriced and still not plug-and-play, even with version 4.
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Jun 28, 2010 20:31
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How old is the chain? If it's constantly stretching out, if might be time to replace it. If it's not that old, could be something is loose/worn with the slack adjuster or the wheel is misaligned maybe?
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Jun 29, 2010 19:28
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Christoff posted:24 years old and a 07 KTM 690. No history Not bad, but I'd still check progressive. You can get an online quote pretty quick and it might be half that. I double checked mine and it's even lower than I thought. I'm guessing mine is poo poo and I should raise the limits, but isn't that what I have health insurance for?  Also, what tire pressure should I run in Distanzas on a Husky 450 with a 200lb rider? I've been in the 20-24 range, equal psi for both front and rear and, while I like powersliding though low speed turns followed by wheelies, I want a good grip psi. I don't care about wear, as I don't really like these tires and can't wait to put something more grippy for pavement on when they're done (even though I'm broke).
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Jul 3, 2010 02:15
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I'm going to be putting one of my bikes inside for maintenance, since I don't have a garage and don't want to work out in 20 degrees. I'm aware of the whole winterizing procedure, but why is filling a bike with new oil better than just draining the oil (and fluids altogether) and keeping it empty? Obviously it is going to be a decent temp in the house, so condensation shouldn't be a problem. I'm asking cause I don't want to end up with oil on the carpet.
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Dec 9, 2010 21:18
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I was about drop $120 on new brake pads for the Ninja until I read the service limit is only 1mm! I guess I'm used to car pads but is that really right? I don't have much pad left but it looks to be 3mm on the front and rear. Should I replace them or am I going to end up with new pads that are the same thickness? Edit: Actually, using a penny the rear seems to be down to almost 1mm, so that would need replacing. They might even be the original pads. The fronts seem to be aftermarket EBCs, as they squealed like a pig from day one. Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jan 16, 2011 |
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Jan 16, 2011 02:36
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Saga posted:$120? Those are some fancy pads y'got there sonny. There is a wear bar on the rear, which it is almost worn down to. They might be the original pads even so they should get replaced. The fronts are the EBCs and don't have any wear bar. The $120 came from EBC HH pads front and rear from Kneedraggers. They seemed highly recommended and other brands like gaffer are the same price. Even stock is $60 a caliper. I dunno, maybe it's the bike...ninjas have a total of 8 pads on the front. I really wouldn't mind stepping down to stockish pads that are quieter if they are going to cost less and I'll check out the ebay pads too.
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Jan 16, 2011 19:34
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Saga posted:Ah right, fancy brakes! Awesome, so something like this would be good? Or am I heading into chinese sweatshop pads at this point? The fronts might not need replacing for a bit, but if I can throw fresh ones on there for $50 and get rid of the squealing at the same time it's a pretty good deal to me. In other news, I opened the dash to fix radar detector LEDs installed by the previous owner and broke the RPM and MPH displays in the process. I don't suppose something like this can be fixed can it? 
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Jan 17, 2011 19:38
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Z3n posted:Try contacting schad@speedaddictcycles.com and see if he can hook you up with a better price on EBC brakes. They're not listed on his site but he does sell them. Tell him Conan pointed you in his direction. Awesome, thanks for the hook up Z3n! After pulling the airbox I found some evidence of another previous owner. Thankfully he didn't perform any hackjob rewiring. 
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Jan 18, 2011 18:37
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Anyone know the proper disposal of used coolant? I always assumed it needed to be recycled but apparently that isn't the case and a search reveals a lot of people saying it's fine to pour down the drain.
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Jan 28, 2011 18:21
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chryst posted:There's no federal regulations. I don't think the EPA has come to a conclusion on antifreeze yet, which is why people think it's fine to just dump. A lot of states/localities have their own laws. I got a quick response from my sewer company and it's not allowed in my area, but there is a disposal facility that takes it for free. They say it will interfere with the operation of the sanitary sewer. Apparently while new coolant isn't hazardous, used is because it picks up all kinds of crap from the engine.
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Jan 28, 2011 18:58
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Porkchop Express posted:Anyone tried the hyperlite kits for their brake lights? I was thinking it might be a good investment, it certainly seems attention grabbing from the videos they show. Jesus those are bright, I bet the running lights would even deter tailgaters. I had the backoff modulator on my VFR, which you can wire into your stock taillights for half the price if you think they are up to the job. It worked as it was supposed to and I never got hit, so meh. Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 00:34
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Crayvex posted:Why the hell do you care about a fuel gauge? My 02 Yamaha R6 has a low fuel light that kicks when I have one gallon left in the tank. The odometer changes to a new trip meter to let me know how long I'm riding with low fuel. Wow Yamaha should clue Kawasaki in on that. When my ninja gets low the odometer starts blinking FUEL and doesn't let you change it back, so you don't how far you can go or are going. It has a programmable stopwatch for lap times, though. 
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Mar 1, 2011 01:12
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Yeah you can't change it for the 05s at least, cause I remember repeatedly trying to on the way to work while getting more worried cause I didn't have time to stop. I made it 160 miles, fuel light came on at 130.
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Mar 1, 2011 02:31
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bladesamurai posted:Is it standard operating procedure for an insurance company to not include motorcycles when applying a multivehicle discount? Is there an insurance company anyone uses in Massachusetts that understands that some people use a motorcycle as a primary vehicle, not a toy? I think it's pretty much universal that cars and bikes are kept separate. When I had two bikes insured through Progressive and then went to add a car, not only was I told it was a separate policy but my rate was sky high because I "had a gap in my auto insurance" despite having bike insurance with them for years. It's the same with banks...you'll never get as good a loan on a bike as you will car because it's not considered transportation. The upside though is insurance is cheap.
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Mar 4, 2011 16:57
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If you have good health insurance you could get the minimum vehicle insurance on the bikes. Mine is $250 a year for two of the most insane "toys" I've ever owned.
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Mar 4, 2011 17:29
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Do sportbikes always require 91-93 octane gas? It's what I've been running but I've been coming across some conflicting info regarding the octane rating my ninja is supposed to take. My own hard copy service manual states a minimum of 90, while one I got online states "min 91 research/87 avg. oct. unleaded OK. It seems like a lot of other kawi riders are arguing 87 is all it needs and that running higher octanes unnecessarily causes excess carbon buildup due to slower burning. Can I just step down to mid and then regular if I don't hear any pinging? And what about midgrade gas degrading since it sits? It's seems like nobody ever gets midgrade, so it would be the oldest in the pump, right?
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Mar 6, 2011 22:15
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Well, the owners manual says AKI 90 min. My service manual just says "increase octane if knocking/pinging" but doesn't give an octane. The one I got off Kawiforums says that stuff about "min 91 research/87 avg. oct. unleaded OK." I wanna believe 87 is OK but with almost 13:1 compression I find it kinda hard.
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Mar 6, 2011 23:53
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BlackMK4 posted:I've run 87 in mine since new without issues, even at the track in 100*+ weather. Ok I'm sold then.
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Mar 7, 2011 01:42
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Ugh, I did the valve check on the Husky (everything is in spec) and slapped it back together, only to realize I never took the spark plug out. Is there a reason why it needs to be out to check the valves properly? All the guides have you taking it out prior to doing the check, I dunno why though. Edit: I guess it would be to relieve pressure which could cause a false reading? Would this really be enough to skew my readings, though? Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Mar 15, 2011 |
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Mar 15, 2011 18:46
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Awesome, I was worried it would change the clearance or something and I'd then have to go on a quest to find replacement shims. Last time I paid $10 for one at a service shop.
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Mar 15, 2011 19:55
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