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I've been meaning to try WD-40 on the sticky reflectors on the husky. I don't think I'm supposed to have them at the track since they're not unlike untaped lights when the sun hits them. Also they add weight.
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Mar 13, 2012 10:57
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Ever since I flushed my brake fluid I've kinda sorta been stoppie'ing (?) my 636. My question is how do I get the back end up while I'm still moving and keep it there? As I am now it feels like under hard braking it only comes up right as I come to a stop. Basically the whole bike pivots around the stopped front wheel which feels like a recipe for flipping over. I don't have any aspirations of being a stunter or anything, it just happened by accident at first and feels pretty cool so I kept doing it. Also if I keep doing it all the time what repairs am I looking at (front forks, rear suspension parts smacking the ground, etc.)
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Mar 25, 2012 11:42
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I knew that pic was going to pop up. It's one year off from being my exact bike too.  The hard part is grabbing the lever enough to swing the back up right away, then backing off a bit to maintain, all while your arms are locked and you feel like you're in the middle of a pushup or something. It seems like it's a lot easier to wad your bike with stoppies then wheelies.
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Mar 25, 2012 12:07
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I've been a lot more willing to try stuff that might wad my bike after doing the valves. Having the cams not fitting back in the head properly and then finding that the automatic cam chain tensioner is no longer working when starting the bike has made me really want to get as much as I can out of it. Plus up to a certain point you should be able to bail by simply releasing the front brake, possibly dropping the bike but at least not sending it cartwheeling on top of you, right? I like this video for it's narrator. "Start up the machine and get it going". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGozt-6mM1U&feature=channel
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Mar 25, 2012 15:22
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Z3n posted:you'll be fine. Thanks, I knew the guy who once said stoppies are more fun then wheelies would have good advice (they are pretty fun). 
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Mar 25, 2012 21:29
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My pitbull stands have wheels. It's perfectly stable rolling around and comes in handy more than you'd think.
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Apr 7, 2012 00:23
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shaitan posted:I figure they'd have some kind of lock on the wheel so they wouldn't slip when you don't want them to. So something like that does exist? The pitbulls don't wheel when they are down all the way and holding the bike up. You lift the handle up a bit and then roll it forward or backward. 
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Apr 7, 2012 13:03
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It's not like I'm going around the block with them, just moving forward or backward in the shed to have more working room on whatever section of the bike I'm at. Handlebars will turn a bit, so I straighten them. When I got them I was paranoid as hell too, but after a dozen uses you realize it's basically turning the bike into a three or four wheeler and pushing on the side will barely rock it. You think that's bad, you should try a dirtbike/sumo center stand, especially with a bike that leaks motor oil and clutch fluid all over it.
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Apr 7, 2012 14:21
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shaitan posted:So how do I know what kind of rear/front stands to buy? I'm looking on the Pitbull site and it's mentioning how if my bike has spools to get a spool compatible stand (wtf is a spool?), and other sites are saying whether it has a dual sided swingarm or single sided swingarm. I know jack poo poo about bikes even though I've been riding for 3 years (never had to turn a single wrench on my 250) Spools are little knobs that sometimes double as swingarm sliders/protectors. Bikes don't usually come with them but you can order them. Single side is just that, a swingarm on only one side (Ducatis mostly). Double side is the U-shaped swingarm on most every other bike. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/89/29170/DPITEM/Street-Bike-Swingarm-Spools-BikeMaster-Race-Swingarm-Spools.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch the walkin dude posted:I've finally come to the point, in my three years of motorcycle ownership, that I gotta adjust my chain. Seems right though I haven't done it in awhile. I would torque it if you have a good torque wrench (everyone should). I also use this thing, which kinda works in the sense that the bike feels and looks straight but I'm never really sure whether it's perfect or not. I wouldn't ride around without a cotter pin either, mainly because you can get like ten for $3 at home depot.
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Apr 7, 2012 17:14
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No I use the rear stand I just googled pitbull stand for that pic. Speaking of, never use the front stand (on the front) without having the rear stand on the rear first. Probably common sense for most people, but not me. It didn't fall but it was unstable as hell. Edit: What is the top add-on part of that front stand for? So you can drop the forks?
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Apr 7, 2012 19:23
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What is the go to resource for bike pricing? I remember hearing that Kelly BB was way off, is there something better?
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Apr 19, 2012 10:19
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invision posted:I use something like searchtempest and search the local area +150ish miles for whatever bike I'm trying to price out, if I'm looking at used prices. For new pricing I have no clue. Yeah that's what I'm doing now. Depending on the model, bike prices can vary quite a lot on there, though.
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Apr 19, 2012 12:34
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Xovaan posted:What do you all recommend for insurance? Insurance is really case by case, determined by your age, zip and things like the waxing of the moon. I've had good luck with Progressive after hunting around, and Geico tends to be stupid expensive despite their constant junkmail. Also I like Flo more then some annoying accented lizard. The levels of policy coverage are usually the same between companies. I've always had minimum liability though so I'm not to familiar with the extra options. I might add comprehensive once I sell the 636 and get the wrx (supermotos are easy to steal).
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Apr 30, 2012 10:51
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KozmoNaut posted:You can mix 3, 4 and 5.1 as much as you like, but you'll obviously alter the boiling point etc. Great, in the last few months I flushed the brakes in both my bikes with brake fluid I bought last year. I could have sworn I checked up and it was still good?
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May 12, 2012 00:50
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The other day I went to start my 636 and it's really hard starting. It cranks and fires up, hangs at 500rpm for a bit and stalls. If I give it gas eventually it starts and will start fine when warm. The only change I've made is putting 93 octane in instead of 87 (what I normally run), so I'm thinking that could be the problem (93 being harder to combust). Idle is adjusted a little above stock and gas line isn't kinked up or anything. Valves were also done about 1000 miles ago and this started happening after taking a day trip (360 miles) and adjusting the cam chain tensioner in. Any ideas? I love Kawiforums, every "hard starting" thread gets the same answers. "It's a kawi thing, just give it a little gas on startup."
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May 12, 2012 16:24
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Edit:^^^Ok, I'll check that out. I actually only tightened it cause the last guy who looked at the bike thought the tick was a loving rod knock. Easier to make it quiet than try to educate someone. I just did the valves and a lot of guys run regular in 636s, even at the track with no problems. The difference was pretty substantial Ola, after the valves were done, it would start in an instant, hot or cold. God I hope I haven't gotten my ninja to the point were it needs valve shims every 1000 miles. 
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May 12, 2012 16:44
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The battery is brand new too! I replaced it over the winter. At this rate it should be a brand new bike in 2 years. As for gas I don't mind running 91 or 93, just have heard a lot of "you should run the minimum octane that doesn't ping". Come to think of it I don't even know what a "ping" is supposed to sound like, prob should check that out too.
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May 12, 2012 18:55
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Yeah I haven't heard anything like that and I've idled through towns in 6th. Loosened the cam chain tensioner a bit, bike is back to sewing machine territory but started right up fine. Thanks Z3n.  Gonna recheck it tomorrow since it's only been cooling down for four hours or so but I hope that's it. I am getting drat tired of contorting a wrench in there.
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May 12, 2012 22:36
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Do you set race sag with your bike on a stand? My manual for the Husqvarna says yes, but obviously the bike isn't going to sag if it is on a center stand so that makes no sense to me at all unless I'm missing something. Edit: On a completely unrelated note, what's with the butt plugs in the exhaust pipes of sumos and dirtbikes? Horrible tragic crash-and-die if a bug flies in there or something? Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 11:19
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Olde Weird Tip posted:He's talking about the rubber plugs, I believe. Those are just to keep rain and other water out, like when you hose the bike off. Yeah I was talking about plugs in the end of the exhaust, like the blue plug seen here:  What's the flame arrestor, the rubbery looking thing wrapped around the endcap, this thing? 
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Jun 17, 2012 15:30
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Ok that makes sense. Found the answer to my other question too: quote:Put it on a stand to measure the distance with the suspension fully extended [A], then off the stand measure with you+gear sitting on the bike (race sag) [B], adjust the spring preload so your race sag is correct, then measure just the bike (free sag)[C]. A-B is your race sag and A-C is your free sag.
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Jun 17, 2012 17:22
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:In Yamaha class they teach to measure the sag of the bike under its own weight too, and factor that in somehow to make sure you have the right progressive range of motion or something. I wish I had the instructions here with me, it sounded like a good idea. I did that too. 25 1/4" in the air, 24 1/4" on the ground and 22" with me on it geared up. According to the manual that's an inch too stiff, yet everyone my weight says they run a stiffer spring. I have to see what race tech/halls cycles recommends.
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Jun 18, 2012 00:59
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infraboy posted:I've had my suspension setup by Rob at Evolution suspension in Santa Clara by the San Jose airport, definitely knows his poo poo too. best 40$ spent on 2 of my bikes. Suspension is one of the things I'd really rather just pay someone to do, but then I can't say "oh my bike is running wide think I'll turn this clicker up", etc. Probably going to be a lot of trial and error, though.
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Jun 18, 2012 10:55
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Since we were talking race sag a page or so back, here is a good illustrated primer: Thanks gonna use these. The Halls Cycle guy is making it sound like I don't need a stiffer spring, which is weird cause most riders 200lbs and up are all complaining their bikes are too soft and upgrade theirs.
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Jun 20, 2012 00:32
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Z3n posted:Thirding this. I've spent far too many frustrating hours puzzling over something that is easily solved with the light of a new day. I'm curious how my first carb rejetting is going to go. It seems most people end up having to do it three times. Here's a question, do I jet for the altitude of where I live (5 meters) or where the racetrack is (150 meters)? I'd guess jet for the track but then I can't test it out without driving for 2 1/2 hours.
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Jun 27, 2012 10:43
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I've been hitting a lot of false neutrals between 2nd and 3rd on the WRX. At first I thought it was cause I spent a few hours in a parking lot and the dirt so the oil was getting too hot, but it's been happening on longer rides too. I have regular Rotella 15w-40 in there (manual calls for 20w-40). Should I step up to a higher grade of oil (T6, AMSoil or whatever) or should I up the weight to a 50. It is pretty hot where I am and I'm guessing the skidplate blocking air doesn't help either. I just hope I'm not losing a gear. 
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Jul 31, 2012 11:48
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Could be the starter, but it could still be the battery too. On my 636 the battery was stone dead and it wouldn't start the bike unless a real charger (not a tender) was pumping juice into it when I hit the button. It would still power the headlights and dash though. I have a Q of my own. If I get a flat on the tubed bike, can I just replace the tube and re-use the same tire? EDIT: Looks like I can, according to cyclegear. I have an extra tube too. Supermoto Supremacy! Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Aug 5, 2012 |
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Aug 5, 2012 15:32
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That is really awesome, a welcome change from my 636 when getting a bolt through the tire put me out 2 weeks and $200.
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Aug 5, 2012 16:03
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 15:42 |
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NitroSpazzz posted:Yes you can, can also patch the tube and have it as a backup. Cycle Gear said they could use my old tube, then said they couldn't because of some liability form and rust around the valve. Even still, $17 for a tube and $15 to mount is hardly worth complaining about.
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Aug 5, 2012 19:10
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