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Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

8ender posted:

What does everyone here do for storing a bike for the winter? Its starting to get too cold to ride here without assuming the "lay across the bike and hug the engine for warmth" position so I think its time to put it away until spring. I have a nice converted chicken coop to store it in.


Put them away?




Fug dat, stud it up!

Seiously though, I sold that bike and dunno if I want to use the GS for such duties this winter. It's a heavy bitch to pick back up-although I have never dropped the bike in the winter.





Christmas morning '06, met up with a riding buddy for a trip to the local lake.





I wondered where that drat cord went.

If I do stud up the GS I'll do a thread. Ridng in the snow is all kinds of fun and it confounds the poo poo out of the cagers.

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Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

AlaskaGrpwn posted:

Two questions.

One:


Tell me about winter riding! I'm heading home to Eagle River in December and I'd much rather ride something 2-wheeled for 12 months of the year rather than three! The commute into Anchorage would be far more bearable.

Is it completely batshit crazy to do this?



Yeah it's batshit crazy but not riding makes me even crazier.

Seriously, I've never had a down in the winter, although I came close once coming home from the local Brown Jug and grabbed way too much front brake...saved it though, thank goodness. That would have shook the beer up.

I'm sure you remember how the highway is in the winter. Right after it snows it isn't fit for man or beast, I wouldn't attempt riding those days due to the cages rolling about like so many carnivorous billiard balls. After say 3 days to a week, the snow is mostly gone due to sublimation from the passage of many car tires-we stud you up some tires and you could make a go of it. I live in Palinville and have made the trip into town on the bike in the winter, I wouldn't want to do it as a commute though.

The bigger trouble is finding suitable tires to fit a cruiser type bike. You need knobbies or very agressive 80/20's, one local studded up his Saber and rode it all winter but he lives in town. Check in over at advrider/alaska forum, we're getting together for a studding party and there will surely be leftover studs. You find the tires, we'll get you going.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

AlaskaGrpwn posted:

My girlfriend's uncle lives out in Palmer and rides a custom cruiser into the docks 365 days a year. You may have seen his crazy long red hair on the Glenn.

I'll see what happens when I get back up there.

I'm pretty sure I know that guy, (James?) and he's absolutely hardcore to a degree that would make normal superheros weep in shame. He has this CB350 that he burned down, on the flats......on New Year Eve. At -10ºF.

I don't know about you, but after working on the docks in the middle of winter with the wind and water turning the docks into a fairy wonderland, the last thing I want ot do is get on the bike for a trip home. And yet he does that very thing.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
I wouldn't worry about mixing DOT 3 and 4, and since DOT 5 is about the hardest stuff to actually buy (I needed some for my Buell) it's very unlikely that he picked up DOT5 off the shelf. You would want to get the fluid changed and that should be done every year, ideally.

If you're terribly worried, you could use a clean, not ever used for any other purpose big horse syringe or turkey baster, suck the old fluid from your resovoir and add DOT FREAKIN 4, but while doing this DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT so much as touch the brake lever or you will get the crash course in brake bleeding.

What you never want in the brake system is any kind of petroleum product, grease, oil, hydraulic fluid, etc. Petroleum products eat the rubber seals and will have instant brake failure.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

Simkin posted:

My dad's R1150GS has the same tubless/spoke setup. It's kind of weird to see the actual ends of the spokes, but I guess if it works...

And works pretty well. It's nice to change tires without messing around with tubes.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
The problem with the cartridge grip heaters is that the throttle sleeve makes a great insulative barrier and your throttle side grip takes forever and a week to heat up. I tend to like the under the grip heaters better for that reason, and they get the heat to the hands quicker. The cheapo heaters I put on my Pegaso were better than the factory heaters on the GS.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
I was considering selling the Chinese bikes until I took a really good look at one in person, the quality is dreadful. This isn't like the Japanese who may copy stuff but build it fanatically well, the Chinese build the stuff as absolutely cheaply as they can possibly can.

While researching the idea, I checked into various manufacturers, some will build bikes bearing your brand for as low as a run of 10 units. Almost all of them would build your brand for a run of 100, for a connex full they'll do whatever you want. Well, almost anything-they still won't build them worth a poo poo.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

Legerdemain posted:

I bought an '01 F650GS a month ago which was having some cooling problems. After replacing the thermostat, coolant temp sensor, and doing a proper coolant change(which the previous owner may not have done), the problem appeared to be gone. I've only put about 20 miles on the bike, but the last time I had it out, there was white smoke from the exhaust and the temp light came on as I was riding home. The smoking isn't too bad. If I started it up right now, it might be barely noticeable, although it was very noticeable when I had the bike out.

Head gasket? If I took a sample of the coolant to a shop to have a combustion test done, will it detect anything if the coolant is only has ~10 miles on it? Anything else I can check?


Actually, I'd suspect the head gasket. If it smoked and the temp light came on there's something going on and you've done the easy stuff already. You might not find any oil/coolant contamination, I'd pop the valve cover off for a look and check for mayo or cottage cheese under the valve cover, or other signs of condensation.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

Z3n posted:

I've seen gauges spike/lights come on due to air in the system or bad gauges/sensors as well.

Assuming that is, that it came on before, he did all the work, and then it went away. If he did all the work and now it's doing it, then yeah, probably some issue there. The wording is a bit confusing. :iiam:

The cooling system on a F650 can be a bit tricky to bleed. I wonder if the fan comes on? He never said that, if the fan doesn't come on there will be doom.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

Hibajubwa posted:

I have a 2006 Suzuki GS500 that I daily drive about 40 miles each way, 35 or so of which is on the freeway. Within the last 2 weeks or so it has started giving me this somewhat strange issue.

After some time on the freeway, usually around the last leg of the way home, it starts to die. It dies in the same way that it does when it runs out of fuel; cutting out bit by bit. If I let it die and stop for a minute (literally a minute, it starts right back up) it will run fine all the way home again. If I throw it over to reserve while it’s still running, then put it back to ‘on’ after a minute or so, it once again runs normal.

Other than that it runs completely normal all the time. No issues starting/idling, pickup feels the same that it always has etc. Hope this gives a good picture of whats going on.

Plugged tank vent comes to mind here. I had the same problem on a Ducati I owned, the DPO had ziptied the tank vent hose to the frame with a vengance. The bike would stop like clockwork every 10 miles. Eventually I gave up on the vent line and pulled the hose off the tank.

Edit-2006 has a carbon canister type system to catch all the vapors from the fuel tank-if that canister fills up with crap or gets plugged up somehow it'll cause these issues. Time for a canisterectomy!

Gnomad fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Nov 1, 2008

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

philkop posted:

My kickstand kind of went limp on me, I have a feeling it might be the spring inside, so I'm trying to take a look inside. Problem is my bikes from 71, so the screws are stuck. Of course I googled first but found nothing more than the standard wd40, and stuff like that. Anybody have any other solutions? I'd rather not spend any more money, but I might end up just getting me a good old fashion impact screwdriver.

If you plan to do any work on bikes you really need one anyway. Phillips head engine case screws won't come out easily without one.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
Bike insurance is weird stuff.

When I was looking at bikes last spring, I narrowed it down to 2 bikes, a Buellysses, or a R1150GS. The price was roughly the same and I liked them both, I almost pulled the trigger on the Buellysses but checked the insurance rates first.
Best I found was $800, worst was $1100, full coverage. Full coverage on the GS with Progressive was, and still is, $279. For a 46YO married male with no tickets, no accidents (that I reported) and decent credit. Guess which bike I bought?

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
My former Pegaso and my BMW GS would get the pipes glowing. Just the way bikes are these days. In your case, their is some kind of kit to shut off the air injection for the newer Truimph twins http://www.newthruxton.com/html/ai_removal_kit.html and this may take care of the problem.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

Bruinator posted:

Thanks Nero, that sounds easy enough to check. Here's hoping it's that simple!

You could be trying this on a V4 Honda. That isn't nearly as simple as a Duck.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
I remember my lowside on the street-one moment I'm leaning over and the next moment I'm sliding across the pavement while my bike squirts away like a watermelon seed...and the sound inside a helmet that is scraping on the street. I jumped up, righted the bike, twisted the forks back into something approaching straight and rode off before someone decided to helpfully call the po-pos.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
As long as you keep the basic maintenence going, oil changes and such, double that mileage is very reasonable to expect. CB engines are pretty consevative, they aren't high strung machines straining for that last drop of horsepower (that you hardly get to use on the street anyway) and Honda builds their bikes pretty well. I did have an early SOHC CB750 that was soft in the cylinders but I bought a package deal of 1 bike and three engines and found enough good parts to build up a good motor.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

Gnaghi posted:

Is this repair common on VFRs? I'm actually thinking of getting a slightly used one in the near future but I might not if regular repairs are going to turn into a huge headache.

How slightly used?
I'm thinking that 2001 ish they went to the V-tech motor which raises the level of mechanical complexity by a factor of "frak me sideways".

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
I'm thinking that maybe the hot smell is from a small oil leak. Take a good look at the valve cover, see if there is any sign of wetness, if so, you'll want to correct this. You may need a new valve cover gasket but it's also easy to let the gasket slip out of position.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
I've had way too many "buyers" who have never shown up again, sometimes they do call but usually you just never see them again. If it's the bike and you have the cash on hand, make the transaction then, don't gripe if someone buys it out from under you. Out of all the times this has happened I've only had one person show up later with the money. I did have one guy show up 2 years after showing him a bike and he seemed honestly surprised it had been sold-maybe he was in a coma or suspended animation?

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
Does this style of carb have a float, or is it maybe a pumper/floater (like a chainsaw carb)?

It sounds to me like maybe the float level may be off, not enough fuel in the bowl. Could the float be in upside down?

Another thing to try, if you can. Put your hand over the open end of the carb and see if it starts and stays running. Check for a good draw through the carb.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
It does sound like you are installing the clutch side on the throttle. ^^^ Well I'm slow!

Unless the clerk sold you ATV grips, which would have both sides the same nominal 7/8" size, as most ATV's use a thumb throttle. If so, you aren't ever going to jimmy either grip over the throttle sleeve which is larger than the handlebar on the other side.

I liker using hair spray as a lube. Some folks use water but it takes forever before the grip really grips the bar.

If you haven't already taken the grip off, do so and compare. Bigger one goes over the throttle. If they are the same, they are incorrect for your application.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

TapTheForwardAssist posted:



Compared the grips, they both have identical interior diameters. So the clerk sold me the wrong kind of grips?

Not trying to get the guy fired, not necessarily demanding a refund of my $12, but I do want to walk out of there with a set of grips that will actually fit my bike.

Yep, you got ATV grips. Welcome to the world of the modern bike dealership. Just try to find a part for a motorcycle :argh: but all kinds of cool stuff on the shelf for ATVs.And I would not feel the least bit apprehensive about getting my money back or swapping them for the right grips. It's your money.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

MaiaN posted:

I have an originally-49cc supermoto fitted with a 75cc cylinder.
Does anyone know what this could be, and will it will get worse, ending up with the cylinder seizing up on me at 40mph and me dying? What options do I have to avoid this or even fix the issue?

Let me put on my asbestos undies to protect from the flames of righteous indignation from the defenders of the 2 cycle engine, here we go!

Running small engines, especially 2 cycle engines at the outer edge of their envelope is not a recipe for long life. In particular, ring life is measured in hours, not miles. It's a consequence of a life lived at the outer edges, and not entirely unexpected.

Will it get worse? Yes. You do need to check your compression, checking the rings would be a lovely idea. Excess clearance can cause the engine to seize, the blowby blows the oil off the rings, leaving the cylinder unlubricated which is no good at 11k, or even 8K.

It could be rings, but if you don't address this right away, it'll be rings and piston, and maybe rings, piton and cylinder. So yes, you should be concerned.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

MaiaN posted:

Is the 'envelope' you speak of the powerband? I only ride it at those revs because that's when it has any power. I actually rode it between 3-8k revs (or whatever revs are just before the powerband) for months because I hate the sound the bike makes, but my spark plug kept on getting oily. A few people who supposedly know more about 2 stroke engines even told me to thrash the motor a little :(


Yeah, you do have to spin that engine, it's the nature of the beast. Riding it at 3K isn't going to help really, it is made to turn over quickly. It's just that as a consequence of the design, you'll go through wear parts faster and rings in a high performance 2 cycle are a wear part, a consumable if you will. The top motocross guys rering after every race and sometimes between heats.

It's not only the small 2 cycles that need maintenence. Those bitchin little Aprilia motards with the 450cc Vtwins are 4 cycle engines and the factory recommends a rebuild at 70 hours. Those 70 hours probabaly go by awfully fast on a bike like that.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
If the military had come to me before spending all that money on stealth technology, I could have done it cheap. "Paint a motorcycle on it and nobody will ever notice it".

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

MrZig posted:

hey, now I got my own dumby question.

Is it okay to leave phoshphoric acid in a gas tank for 24 hours?

My tank is semi-rusty and so first I did the electrolysis method (which worke great), then I poured in about a pint of "Rust-Mort" which is 75% phoshphoric acid. It's been in there for about 5 hours now, and every hour or so I move the tank around so that it coats it in different positions.

So my question is this: is phosphoric acid strong enough to eat through the metal if left over night? I know it's a weak acid, so I think it should be okay, right?


As long as it doesn't find weak spots, or loose seams.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

8ender posted:

Does anyone know anything about the late seventies Yamaha XS1100s?

The father-in-law is apparently trying to one up me now that I've got my KZ650 in order and is looking to replace his Goldwing with a 1978 XS1100. The specs look good but I'm not sure on reliability, handling, etc.

That's a move down. The late 80's weren't Yamahas best days and the XS bikes had cooling problems. The inner cylinders tended to overheat, the 750's were worse but I have talked to a couple of riders who hated their XS1100's.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

bobula posted:

Just be glad he didn't get a Virago, what with their infamous starter drives. I do seem to remember the 1100 XS's having some kind of transmission design flaw. The second gear always goes out or something like that.

I liked the Virago, and the starters can be fixed. They shouldn't have to be fixed, but that's the hand that Yammy dealt them.

Maybe I should clarify. I liked the pre-cruiser Virago, when I was more of a standard with a (for then) high-tech V twin. I've ridden a couple, they weren't bad for a bike of that vintage, and can be made into fabulous cafe bikes.

The second gear problem is practically endemic to Yamaha streetbikes. Google "undercut gears" for the fix.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
On the subject of tire changing lube-KY.

Seriously.

The cheap stuff in the tube is fine. I suppose you could use asstroglide if you flet the need.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
I think thst's one of the Chinese copies, given the shape of the heads.

http://www.chang-jiang.com/bmw/a2.html

Chang Jiang, not exactly a paragon of reliability. Alaso, it may be difficult to register here in the US.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
The HP number can't be more than 30 or so on a good day, add a heavy metal bike and a sidecar and you have a recipe for instant mosey, on back roads, without traffic. And hopefully, without dogs chasing you or they'll catch you.

I tested out a Dneiper and was not impressed. The 2WD was neat and all but the rest of it wasn't something I really wanted to live with.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
As a long shot, you could try Lowes in the plumbing section. I've lucked out and matched 0-rings there on occasion. It's hit and miss with no apparent rhyme or reason for the selection, or how it's displayed, maybe worth a try though.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
The Gladius is a pretty cool looking bike, I didn't think Suzuki was brave enough to bring them here until I saw on at the bike show, and yes they do look better in person.
Your haggling skills are decent if you can get them to move at all on a brand new model. Usually they want to see if the bike is a mover or a dust collector, could be that they want to get some out on the street. You did get the bike you wanted, that counts as a win.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

NVaderJ posted:

How hard is it to get a center stand back on a bike if I were to take it off to paint it? The spring sort of scares the poo poo out of me. I don't want to wrestle with a rusty weapon sprung to kill me if I don't do it right on the first try.

The easy solution begins before you take the spring off.

Get a bunch of pennies together, extend the centerstand. Put pennies between the spring coils. fold the center stand back up, the pennies will hold the spring extended and it will come right off. No pain, no drama. You could use washers too, but these days, washers cost a couple/three cents each. Pennies cost, well, a penny!

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
With clubman bars, bar ends are the only practical alternative. They work pretty well, fair warning, they break off instantly in a parking lot tipover.

I had a regular mirror on this bike



and it was largely useless, there merely for legality.

That bike was my "Frankenbeezer", a 650 BSA twin in a Yamaha XS500 frame. That was the ultimate tinkerers bike and got pushed home a couple of times. Almost every ride ended with some sort of complication. Fueling got hosed, the electrics were part Lucas, stuff vibrated loose (the muffler!) it was loud, vibrated madly and very rarely did everything all work at the same time. Yep, I loved that bike. Sold it to help finance the BMW.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

OrangeFurious posted:



As far as the DOT approved thing goes, I assume the majority of parts I buy will not be DOT approved - especially aftermarket stuff. I don't know if I've seen an aftermarket part that is DOT approved. The manufacturers have to pay for that testing and certification and I'd imagine very few people care.

It's kinda like buying a case for your iPod - that "Made for iPod" logo just means the manufacturer paid Apple for certification. It says little or nothing about the quality of the product.

If your bike is subject to inspections, non-DOT approved items might be cause for failure, same if the rozzers want to find something to ticket you for.

OTOH, the headlights on my R1150GS are DOT approved and are famous for sucking horribly. They have the magic DOT stamp though, so they must be good! [/sarc]

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
Radio Shack might have those lamps and lenses, dunno if you have them in Canada.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

MrZig posted:

Are chains supposed to make noise around the front sprocket?

I just put a new chain on my GS400 and when I turn the back wheel, the chain makes a.. Not really a grinding noise but more of a knocking/rapping/tapping noise around the front sprocket. Is it just chain noise? I don't think the chain is rubbing on anything, as it's the exact same chain as specified (530 104 link). The sprocket is 1 tooth smaller (15T). Could it just be regular chain noise? I'll try and take a video tomorrow in my own thread with the big update I have planned.

Did you replace the sprocket at the same time? If not, I'll bet you the teeth are hooked. Don't ride it like that, you'll ruin the new chain.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

MrZig posted:

Wheel is aligned perfectly on the marks.
That isn't always straight though. I'm assuming you have enough slack in the chain?

I've had new chains make a kind of "squish squish" sound.

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Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

Budgie posted:

Do two strokes also burn gear oil? If not I have a leak somewhere because I checked the level this morning and I had to tilt the bike almost on top of myself to see anything in the sight glass.


They aren't supposed to, but if one of the seals in the transmission is leaking, I could see the engine sucking in some gear oil.

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