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Cleaning the tank. Remove tank, drain fuel. Get some nuts, bolts, BB's, pointy bits of broken glass, whatever is handy, some folks use a short piece of chain-put it in the tank with the solvent of your choice. Now you shake and shake and shake that tank, trying to get all the loose stuff you put into the tank into all the corners, you're trying to scrape the rust out with the material in the tank. Lather, rinse, repeat until there isn't any more rust. Once done with that, you can use some of the metal prep/rust converter, NOT EXTEND!!!!! but the liquid stuff, slosh that around, let it dry, fill the tank and keep it a bit fuller this time. If this treatment finds all the weak spots in the tank, epoxy will seal the holes if they aren't too big. I had to epoxy the corners on a BMW K75 tank, held up fine. You can use POR-15 or Tank Creme if you want, but if they don't adhere perfectly to the tank the stuff can come off in sheets and think of the problems then!
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Apr 18, 2009 06:38
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sirbeefalot posted:My question was lost at the bottom of the last page, but if someone could just verify that I probably won't explode on the way to work tomorrow, that'd be great. I'd plug that red dotted hose. My guess is that it hooks into the canister somewhere, leaving it open mught cause a vaccuum leak. The clear hose is an overflow tube, leave that open.
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Apr 20, 2009 06:29
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About the chains and such-a worn out chain is not determined by the space left on the adjusters-it's determined by chain wear. I've always had to replace chains well before I ran out of room on the swingarm. Don't assume it's all golden if you still have a couple of hash marks on the adjusters. A certain poster here once believed that and instead of replacing the chain on a CT90, took out a couple links. The chain slack was welltaken up, and the chain didn't break, but the teeth on the rear sprocket wore rapidly to the point of the chain rolling over the nubs without any forward motion taking place. Don't be this guy.
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Apr 21, 2009 03:24
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Would an 06 be likely to have a vacuum canister? If that canister or the hoses get clogged up, you will have issues-from what I'm reading, the canister did the job it was designed to do, catching gas fumes, but got so full of fuel that it puked up more than it was supposed to. It may be too full and possibly need to be replaced-I wonder if the emission control warranty would cover that? On cars there is extra coverage for emission parts, wouldn't bikes be the same?
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Apr 28, 2009 03:28
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Gnaghi posted:On the subject of storage, what are the problems/risks with storing a bike indoors? I have no garage and currently use a shed to store my bike (which I will need to replace with a bigger one if I get a second bike), but the thought occurred to me that if I put a ramp I can just ride them up my porch and into my living room. The floor is wood and I would need to put an oil mat and maybe something else down. One of my buddies stores his less used bikes in his living room and it works out fine. If it's a modern bike with evap controls, the fumes will be caught in the charcoal canister and be a non-issue, if your bike vents directly into the atmosphere aulde skôôl style, results may vary. Problems would result if you filled your bike with fuel stored underground in tanks cooler than ambient temp and then placed right into the living room, fuel expanding when warm has caused more than one garage fire. Don't discount the stinky power of gasoline. I bought a fuel tank over the interwebs, when I went to the post office to pick it up I could smell it as soon as I walked in the door. I'm surprised they didn't hand it over to the bomb squad.
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May 2, 2009 16:51
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Nerobro posted:It's not a safe bet. I know probably a dozen people on this forum that could buy that and do "something" worthwhile with it. But even $500 is to much. New it was $1000. And those people know enough to not bother. I was considering having a side business selling the Chinses bikes until I had a good look at one, and realized that I could not in good consience do that to t he unsuspecting public. "loving dreadful" is the kindest word I have for the build "quality".
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May 10, 2009 19:11
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Pweller posted:There's a dirtbike just outside my city for sale that was apparently running when parked 3 years ago. The guy says it sparks and has good compression, but won't run. He also only wants a couple hundred bucks for it. 4 stroke, could be just clogged carbs. 2 stroke, could be crank seals gone bad as well and carb clogged.
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May 11, 2009 06:31
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MrZig posted:Here's a random question. Why is it that every single 80's bike in 'OK' condition has missing side covers? Where do they go?! I have a pair off a 78 Honda Hawk 400, I won't need them, so if someone is looking they're available for the cost of postage. Likely doesn't help you much, but seems a good break to offer them to the gooniverse.
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Jul 7, 2009 04:13
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Phat_Albert posted:
I looked at a private seller Ducati 750SS. The guy selling it was primarily a HD rider and had purchased the Duc because he thought they looked cool. The bike had 900 miles on it when I looked at it. I asked him why he never rode it and he told me he didn't like the brakes, they were really poor. A bit of probing revealed that he refused to use the front brake "if you do you'll go right over the handlebars". Considering that the primary usefulness of a 750SS rear brake is to keep the bike from rolling backwards, I can understand his concern. I have found my braking technique has suffered from using the ABS on the BMW GS. You can grab a fistfull of lever and that bike stops hard. That behavior on the FZ1 results in considerably more drama, but no pavement-synchronous orbit....yet.
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Jul 11, 2009 02:26
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A bike that behaves in a dangerous and unpredictable manner is not a good learning machine, just sayin. I'd be looking at the following, and right away-tire pressures. Rim straightness. Steering head bearings and swing arm bearings. given that it gets better with more wieght, I'm thinking the swingarm bearings are pooched. Shocks and forks, in particular, how does the oil in the forks look, assuming there is any? Something is setting up oscillations in the chassis that aren't getting damped out, by weaving the bike you are disappating the energy stored in the chassis...but we don't want to do that. As for the carbs, I suspect the vacuum pistons aren't working quite right. On my 1980 CM400, instead of diaphrams the carbs use a vacuum piston and if there is any leak anywhere the carbs run like crap. The carbs on mine drove me nuts for a while.
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Jul 14, 2009 07:15
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Z3n posted:
Pssstttttt..... air is an insulator, remember? But when you put lightening bolt levels of energy into the air, it becomes a conductor. You wet tires are going to undergo the same magical transformation if a bolt from the blue finds you. If miles of air won't save you, a couple inches or rubber sure won't. As I tap this out, keep in mind that I have been in the middle of thunderstorms with ground strikes hitting all around me. It makes a guy feel very small and yet very large at the same time.
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Jul 25, 2009 02:27
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Nyyen posted:Fuckin theiving scrotes nicked our bikes Pretty bad stealing bikes from inside a garage. Must be the UK, where you apparently have to lock your bike inside to a huge anchor embedded in the floor. Someone stole a little Suzuki JR50 but that's what happens when you leave it unattended outside all summer between rides. That sucks anyway.
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Jul 29, 2009 04:56
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Phy posted:I'm sure it's been asked before, but does anyone have a link to an article on how to repair a busted chain at the roadside? Also, is it possible to inflate a patched tire with a bicycle pump (and a half hour or so) or is that one of those things you really need a powered compressor for? Carry a spare master link, a hammer and a pin punch, or a chain breaker. And a bicycle pump will inflate a truck tire in half an hour. A motorcycle tire is a couple of minutes.
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Aug 15, 2009 21:53
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Hahah, wow. So I hooked up a multimeter to my bike and tested the battery while it was off and got a reading of 15V or so. (poo poo.) Actually, if your MM is reading 15V on a resting battery the calibration is off. A charged 12v lead acid battery should read closer to 13.2.
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Aug 26, 2009 07:36
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Blaster of Justice posted:Always use your centerstand. Take this advise from a random guy that's invested more than $2K in various plastic parts and the wind. It's really no trouble at all to use your centerstand, and if you think it's hard to do, you're doing something wrong. My heaviest bike is a Honda CBX 1000, weighting in at about 600 lbs wet. I have no trouble using the centerstand and I'm not that big - around 160 lbs. This is so true. Too many riders put a foot behind the centerstand and try to haul the bike backwards, this results in frustration and failure. Steady the bike, put your foot on the little extension and bear down hard with your foot, the centerstand will lever the bike up and in place like magic. I've seen BMW riders do it while still seated and I could sometimes do it on my old K75. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzcNoWphFdU Gnomad fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Aug 29, 2009 |
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Aug 29, 2009 21:28
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Blakeem bin Bustin posted:I'm buying a '07 CBR600RR and of the two best I've found neither owner has the title. Both are still with Honda Financial. What's the usual protocol for buying a bike with a lien on it and what do I need to be careful of? This is one of those rare times that going through a bank would be helpful. Any bank you go through will be drat sure to get the title from Honda financial or the money won't trade hands, not much opportunity to get hosed that way. Even if you are paying cash, the bank route is going to cut way down on the legwork and the potential for funny business. Buying a used vehicle from a private seller is a lot like going to a car lot, except that you fill out the paper yourself. What I would not ever do is give the seller the money and have him chase down the title. His incentive is just about zero.
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Sep 2, 2009 19:01
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Blakeem bin Bustin posted:Can you elaborate on what you mean by going through a bank? I am paying cash, so I'm not sure how I could get my bank involved? That's just the sort of scenario I'd try to avoid. Even if you have the cash, consider taking out a loan and then, once the bank has the title from Honda Financial, pay off the loan. Then you get the title from the bank. Seems a bit circuituous, but it gives you a layer of protection.
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Sep 3, 2009 03:07
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Z3n posted:I don't think anyone but a select few older than dirt fossils are going to understand how or why you'd boil a chain One of my buddies used to boil his chains all the time and it must have worked, his chains seemed to last forever. Course that was on an ancient Harley. I like the dry teflon lube stuff from Lowes, can't think of the brand right off my pointy little head but it dries clear, and protects like nothing else without leaving greasy kids stuff on the chain to attract dirt. Largely like the Honda spray lube without the Honda price.
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Sep 6, 2009 07:20
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One of the few advantages of being a Cycle 4 rider is that insurance companies tend to think we're all a bunch of couch riding codgers and price insurance accordingly. If they kept closer tabs on us, they'd be rightly horrified.
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Oct 20, 2009 05:26
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^^^^^^ drat he's fast! ^^^^^^EvilCrayon posted:
At least 3 of the ratchet strap tie downs should do nicely. Some sort of ramp helps tremendously. I like to use 2 straps in the front, hooked to the frame if possible, one in the back, suspension lightly compressed. Stop and check until you feel confident in the new baby not escaping.
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Oct 21, 2009 07:28
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I don't recall pulling a cam from a known good engine that looked like that one does. It may just be the way they are. I don't see any bluing or signs of heat damage, which would show up rather quickly if there was an oiling failure. It could be that the oil didn't get changed on a regular basis and we're seeing some light sludging/coking. You could compare it to your present cam, see what it looks like, unless you don't want to pull it until you have the gixxer cam in hand. Can't say I'd blame you. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Dec 28, 2009 |
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Dec 28, 2009 09:36
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I usually leave the springs in until the dampers are good and loose. Some you do really need a tool to keep the damper from turning, I had a modern Triumph that needed one. I welded one up from a long steel tube and a bolt with the appropriate head measurement. Once the damper has broken loose, it's really hard to get that bolt to come out. I'd put the springs back in, retighten the bolt and start over, definitely using an impact driver. BTW, my impact driver was the first specific tool I ever bought, paid $20 or so 30 years ago and still have it. And still use it. Do not EVER attempt to split the engine cases or even remove the sides on a Japanese bike without one.You'll spend more on EZ-outs, drill bits and replacement screws than you ever spent on the impact tool.
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Jan 3, 2010 20:07
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If it were me, I'd use 2 of these http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584#tabsetBasic You always want full wave rectifiers for charging, otherwise you waste half of your charging current. I would hook the ~ connectors to the C1 and C3 and use that output for charging, and hook the ~ connectors of the other one to C1 and ground. That should give you 2 isolated DC power sources. You'll also need a voltage regulator, unless there is already one on the bike seperate from the rectifier.
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Jan 5, 2010 06:04
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Yes, but it's a Honda, and if Honda says it's normal it must be. Nothing ever goes wrong with Honda. Sounds like a bunch of herdthink to me.
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Feb 6, 2010 06:35
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Jack the Smack posted:Just a question about oil getting burned: Do the additives get burned too with the oil They do, and end up as combustion chamber deposits. Hence the need for an occasional water torture or a seafoaming.
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Feb 7, 2010 02:26
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If there is a "Fastenal" store near you, try them. They have a good selection of fasteners. Be cautioned that they also have a selection of other things that you didn't know you needed until then and budget accordingly.
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Feb 7, 2010 19:53
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:I love old honda bikes. Something about the lines really appeal to me. Anyway, I am thinking about offering the guy $200 for this: I have one of those. The version with wire wheels has drum brakes that are really poor, no matter what you do with them, unless maybe you could find a super soft race compound shoe. If it has comstars, then you get the disc brakes in the front, still the awful drum in the rear. Also, that bike came with the piston actuated CV carbs which tolerate no vacumm leaks of any kind and still run lean, but I have a fix for that which helps off idle and midrange and makes the bike more pleasant to ride. If you have a decent process for recovering the title, I say go for it for $200. It'll be a $600 bike by the time you get a chain, tires, etc, but that's the game we play.
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Feb 13, 2010 18:47
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darknrgy posted:welp, I'm boned. I cut out the stem and that all went fine. Trying to get the last section of the tire wrapped over the rim was a motherfucking bitch. I must have punctured the tube because it leaks. I must be doing something wrong. Yeah, you are. Tire changing is a skill that takes practice, but I can drop a hint or two that I've learned over the years. Once I break a bead, I can change tube or tureless tires in half an hour, or less, depends on the rim/tire combo, some are suckier than others . Hint 1-lube and lots of it. You can buy designated tire lube, but I use whatever ghetto brand of KY I can find at the local store. Lube the tire up and the first side will slip on without the use of tools. Hint 2-modern bikes use a "drop center" rim. The middle of the rim is lower than the beads. The trick is to work the tire bead down into that drop center while wrestling it onto the rim, which gives you the extra room you need. Spend less time trying to work the tire over the rim and more time working the tire into the drop center. The room is there but you have to work smarter, not harder. Hint 3-tubes need to be slightly inflated. Just enough air to hold its shape.
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Feb 14, 2010 18:00
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I should probably write that up sometime. Most of the trick is your prep work, and keeping the stuff clean as you work. And a lot of the process is boring drudge work.
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Feb 22, 2010 07:00
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hayden. posted:So I guess I need a multimeter? Then I start poking it at wires to see where the bad link is? It will, but you can get a multimeter at any home improvement store, Sears, Radio Shack, etc. They are cheap these days everywhere.
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Feb 27, 2010 18:28
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Whiteboy posted:I just ordered some decals from downat70 and was wondering if anyone has experience with them. I got them in today before I finished painting my tank and having never put them on, I'm not sure what the best technique would be. Is it a dumb idea to put them on before I put my clear coat top layer on so that the stickers would have a tiny layer of protection? Or should I just stick them on after I'm done painting. If they are clear coat safe, I'd put them on before clearing. Hopefully you haven't touched the decal surface with bare hands.
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Feb 28, 2010 00:25
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dwoloz posted:Is there any chance of me getting my hands on a Honda FTR223 in the US? Nope. Maybe if you found someone in Japan willing to send it to a piece at a time. Try to import the whole bike and customs will sieze it. I'm not 100% sure the send it back a piece at a time ploy will work these days.
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Mar 6, 2010 05:21
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Dubs posted:DN 01 is a scooter. You have to wonder about Honda these days, when they blow their quirky wad on poo poo like the DN01 and the Rune.
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Mar 6, 2010 18:35
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Doctor Zero posted:You shut your gob, the Rune is sweet. Heresy! The Rune is a rolling monument to all the bad psychosis of the early 2000's, with the glittery massive too much is never enough design pathology, while the Fury is bike refined, distilled to the bare essence. I still say, for a company that brought motorcycling to the casual America riding public beyond the 1%'rs, Honda has lost its way. Or maybe the public has lost its way. Honda, where is my Varedero?
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Mar 6, 2010 19:54
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MrKatharsis posted:OK, need some advice: You may have already let the magic smoke out and your alternator is now empty. There are people here who can guide you through the process of adding the new wire containing the smoke, but anythime the magic smoke gets out, that is a bad thing.
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Mar 8, 2010 01:53
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shipwrek posted:Wondering about tires. The PO of my bike did just about everything on the cheap. We need more info- brand of tire, model, and most important, are they the right size? Almost any cheap tire will work as long as the size is right, but some cheap owners put tires that are too small or otherwise inappropriate for the bike. Most folks might consider Kendas to be cheap tires but I've had good results from them on a couple of different bikes. The new cheap in-tire is Shinko, the buzz on them is fairly positive and the retreaded tires have gained some grudging acceptance.
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Mar 10, 2010 03:30
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shipwrek posted:Got this one spot on! They are Kendas and they are the right size front and back. The bike is pushing 70HP at the rear wheel though so maybe its not so much that they are cheap as that they are not really the best to maximize the bikes potential. I run Kenda Challengers on a Honda Cm400, and used them on a BMW K75. They were decent tires and I had no particular complaints with them. Chances are the tires are good enough-but if they aren't in your mind, then you should change them to a brand you do trust. Confidence is a big part of riding.
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Mar 10, 2010 07:49
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Several questions in no particular order: Yes, Gooses can be quirky but not that tempermental. The older ones were stone simple. Most of the maintenence items are easy to access and you can get an external oil filter kit to avoid the internal filter goofieness. The sound they make at redline is 110% delightful, it's sort of a small block chevy war cry. They did go through a rough period in the early 2000's. Numerous electrical and finish problems. Those bikes are best avoided unless you are willing to dig deep and make the mods (mostly updating the relays).
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Mar 12, 2010 03:36
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Ola posted:Time to fix my loving leak but need HALP Northern winters are best used for tearing down bikes and other needed chores so you don't have to gently caress with it during riding season. I don't know if it's getting any warmer in your neck of the woods, it sure doesn't seem to be here, but you should be able to get the engine out, cases split and back together before riding season. It reallly is that time. Time to swap that out. Or maybe the Snap-On truck has something that will work, if you have a Snap-On truck there.
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Mar 13, 2010 19:37
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While we're discussing gimping and riding- I sold my Ducati streetfighter to this gentleman who insisted on taking it for a test ride, he wanted to be sure it would work for him and for emphasis he reached down and tapped on a leg that made very hollow sounds. He got his test ride.
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Mar 17, 2010 03:10
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