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Slavvy posted:I was thinking that but then decided a ktm gives too much back when it's actually working so there's a major risk of exacerbating the infection. A triumph or MV would be a better long-term treatment imo. A 800 striple or a F3 would be a good pick 
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Apr 16, 2022 06:12
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what gauge of wire and how many Watts? Relays are dumb dumb devices. think of it as a mechanical on-off switch that takes two extra wires instead of a finger to actuate. Unless you were using it to switch the starter motor, its internal contacts are fine. You can actually test its internal contacts. Measure the Voltage drop across the input and the engaged output terminal 30 and 87 respectively on the generic box relays. close to 0.00V drop? Its loss is elsewhere. You can measure again from the battery (or fuse) to the relay. and again from the relay to the controller. gear on. anything over like one-quarter of a Volt with the gear on? your wire is too small for the given draw. Why am I using Voltage drop? I am pretty sure you don't have a temperature compensated Ohm meter. Doing a little algebra and you can use crappier tools to net the same test.
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Apr 17, 2022 01:23
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12ga is plenty for 10A. if you're drawing ~half the stator @ rated rpm uhhh yeah might time to start looking into cutting down some of your draw. (led headlights, tail lights, indicators, etc) This is that case where you're looking at higher output stators or rewinding your own, and or cramming a larger battery into your bike to make up for when the stator can't keep up. 55W lowbeam H4 + 8W tail lamp 1157 + 100W in heated gear is likely running at a net loss at 2000rpm. Watch your Voltage for like 5 mins at a minimum rpm range. 4-5 thousand is probably going to be about where it puts out its rated 200W. I haven't tested the dr/drz for sure, 2000 is gonna likely be less than half of that. Low voltage cutout is there as a battery-drain prevention for those that hardwire accessories directly to the battery and not switched through the ignition. I've found it on a few heated gear controllers.
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Apr 17, 2022 05:10
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Slavvy posted:Bleeding is not your issue I don't think, air in the system can't make it drag. If you had enough air in there to justify needing to move hoses around the thing wouldn't work at all. Honestly seems like the pistons are jamming, did you clean everything obsessively when putting the caliper together? Have you rebuilt the MC at all? You tend to vomit out huge amounts of words but the actual information on what you've done or why is hard to discern. This is my takeaway too that the caliper rebuild didn't take. Do you have photos of the pistons or the bores? Good photos, not some loch ness monster or bigfoot's dick quality stuff. Did you use the correct and high quality o-rings in the rebuild? they could be causing the pistons to stick. The only way its going to drag from air is if the air gap in the master cylinder reservoir is too small. ie: you overfilled the reservoir. Excessive pedal travel: look at the pivot pin and its clevis. They're probably hogged out from being three decades old. Pump the pedal several times. does travel reduce? stay the same? E: fwiw I don't screw around with rebuilding aluminum calipers or master cylinders. The bores are usually hogged out, a reseal is a temp fix without sleeving the bore. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:56 on May 6, 2022 |
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May 6, 2022 19:52
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no idea on tourmax' stuff, their site seems...rudimentary alright, what does it do when you pump and hold with a fair bit of pressure on the pedal for say 30 seconds? 1 minute? will it slowly bleed down? you should measure pushrod travel at the master cylinder for verification. If it slowly bleeds down the master's piston seals/bore is worn. With the pistons still being hard to push in with the bleeder open it rules out any interference outside of the caliper itself. I just saw your other post. The pistons aren't usually machine fit to the bore. they are however precision machined surfaces. They will also wear against one another with use and time. You can try to swap the two pistons around. If you're willing to do some exploratory surgery. Split the caliper body again, Label one side A, the other B. Remove the pistons and label them(A,B), remove the /bore o-rings. Insert the piston partially, and rotate it. Note the force it takes to rotate the piston. Does it stick at all? Is there an area where it spins easiest? Go back and forth in rotation. Really feel it out. mark this location. Try inserting it further and doing this again. Does it again freely spin in the same spot? Try the other piston. Any better? any worse? Use the best of the two pistons. Try the other body half with the same procedure. Take notes here. it will help. Put the seals back in, orient the pistons in the direction they sticking the least. What you're feeling for here is tolerance between the piston and the bore, and you're setting the piston in the bore with the greatest tolerance so that it doesn't bind. When you orient the piston to the bore, see if you can run it through its travel. Feel free to use compressed air to work the piston in its bore. (should also note that pistons aren't really one to be easy to spin but it is possible) cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 20:23 on May 6, 2022 |
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May 6, 2022 20:21
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I love carbs. Sorry you don't understand physics and dark magic. we're talking about baking, right? (charge LiFePO4 under 0C for a good time)
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May 26, 2022 16:22
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most efi you get now is completely locked out to remapping for emissions compliance reasons. The more primitive or race ecus are open for this sort of tuning. ime they're in some ways easier to tune than a carb without any baseline setup jetting. To add to the insufferableness. very few efi systems will be as responsive as mechanical injection. Its crisp and responsive as a carb... Are we really gonna have this carb | efi debate again? Steakandchips posted:Problem is that I don't live near any motorcycle greybeards to teach me the dark arts... I mean, you also did go right for super-awesome-raw-gay-electric-horsepower too. E: fuckit. My poo poo doesn't have heaters, I'm not installing them, ever. I've had it down to 0F(-17C) maybe -10F(-28C) at almost 10,000 feet(3000m) and not had any icing. If it ever did I can stop and wait 5 minutes for the ball of thermonuclear heat to cook off said ice. (and warm my hands on the radiators) cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 16:34 on May 26, 2022 |
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May 26, 2022 16:32
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haha cis-e/k-jet is soooo slow to respond. Partly because of its design using a big flappy plunger in the air intake tract that acted on a set of plungers for fuel delivery. So you whacked the throttlebody open, which then eventually pulls the flappy plunger down as more air enters the engine. It does do boost well which was uncommon for the era. loving everything from shitbox taxi benzes to rollers and ferraris ran that system. I was the poor jerk that kept them running clean and proper. I was meaning more direct-injected-mechanical-injection what every early diesel featured or the 300sl.
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May 26, 2022 17:08
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could be from the hose itself or any other part of the system.
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May 26, 2022 22:17
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pistons, seals, bores look fine to me. agreeing with slavvy on the hose. shelf life for normal brake lines is typically a decade. If it looks older than that it wouldn't hurt to replace it.
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May 28, 2022 01:41
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I did this with the rover shop. I really enjoyed teaching people about their cars. If the owner didn't care I didn't bother. But if they were curious I'd show em everything I knew. Sometimes it was fear or anxiety from not knowing what's going wrong with a vehicle, sometimes helping someone to be better armed with information when they'd take their vehicle into a shop so that they don't get screwed in the rear end. I dabbled around with teaching others in various other mediums later on like metalworking, electronics, and such. Its extremely rewarding, which is good, because little else about working in a shop is.
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May 30, 2022 22:41
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check the amperage of the fuses in the fuse panel. One is probably key switched. the other is probably not. At minimum you can put a power outlet on the non-switched one and then drop your favorite car charger into the socket. heated grips draw a couple amps, probably fine on the keyed accessory. On my KTM Antique(tm) both are 5A. However I wouldn't put 600W worth of poo poo on its weedy rear end wiring.
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Jul 29, 2022 21:26
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Slavvy posted:I think unless ktm are criminally negligent (entirely possible), something labelled 'accessories' will cope with the current draw of the most common accessory you can get. Fuses are replaceable. Pretty much. running a tire inflator or an inverter is probably a stretch. heated grips/phone charger isn't imo. heated gloves/jacket/pants/insoles all at once?...maaaybe. It was fine in my case. The first time i used a tire inflator off the front outlet on the stock accessory circuit it dimmed the lights with the engine running but the hardwired one I put in out back didn't. The finest, built only to race then dispose of at the end of the season. (half the bike's high current loads are on a subharness now anyway and I still need to move the headlight over to it...)
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Jul 29, 2022 21:39
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drat I should have kept that from the air cooled days. fire and emergency response run these massive inflatabags off of diesel engine exhaust for heavy lifting. Should get one of those for when a GSA inevitably takes a nap when there's less than ten of us to get it greasy side down. I did the adv thing and put onboard air on the bike. Tire inflator broke at the worst possible time so I turned it into something useful.
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Jul 29, 2022 22:03
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google, forums, reddit, experience, pouring through their assembly instructions, etc.
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Aug 2, 2022 22:31
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Steakandchips posted:Eliminate the boring maintenance crap to do with chains and carbs; get a belt or shaft driven bike, with EFI. Never. Chains and lifetimes have this matrix that they work on. Some of it is environmental in the running conditions they see. Some of it is user care and how often, how clean, and the lubes involved. Some of it is the gearing. More teeth or less power, less stress on the links and pins. Some of it is the materials in the chain itself. And of course. black arts. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 16:09
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Oh you're fine not like it's a suzuki or ktm. All non-pressurized expansion tanks work on the same principle that Slavvy described. Even with a pressurized expansion tank there's a hose at the very bottom.
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Sep 2, 2022 00:51
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imprint of the piston?
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Sep 14, 2022 02:41
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I cut down a crutch to the lower leg and just jam it under the bike. Kept the adjustable section for varying bikes. works a treat. E: against the adv wheelset. 
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Jun 18, 2023 21:50
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The 950's evap system is a cumbersome bunch of plumbing that reminisces that of the rx7's emissions system. There's at least a dozen one way valves, cans in both upper fairings, and a couple solenoids to make it all work poorly. Fun failure modes were fuel volcanoes spewing fuel when one of its two fuel caps were opened because the two tanks had differential pressures Vacuums being pulled on both tanks causing hard to repeat stalling problems. Fuel leaks from the left side tank cap valves (there's 3) on the side stand Fuel equalization issues when the carbon can was contaminated with fuel. Primarily when the tanks were just filled and the bike is parked. There's numerous tiny passages in the fuel tanks and the caps that will clog with dust (it is intended to go on dirt roads) that will cause random hard to repeat issues with the fuel delivery system, aka the carburetors. The dealer solution was to drill a hole in both tanks and stick a hose between them to solve for 90% of the problems. This too would leak fuel over a hot engine but only when the tanks were more than 80% full. Also the same fill level that would cause problems with the evap system. This junk had long failed before I came into the ownership of this bike. So yea don't feel bad about deleting this primitive rear end poo poo, it pales in comparison to what cars get because they have the room for it.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:38
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the chain if its not complete poo poo from aliexpress should have markings of what it is stamped onto the links. tbh? don't bother converting the fz1 from 530 to 520 unless you want to replace final drive components 2-3x as often.
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Oct 7, 2023 04:10
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my drz's metal tank evap line broke off internally and dumped a tank of gas while filling it up to go to work. MetaJew posted:Plastic gas tanks are bad when: Soldering iron with a blunt tip. heat the old one out. press in a new nutsert. done. Plastic tanks go bad when the tanks don't equalize properly because of the hokey evap system and its various half dozen one way valves. The dealer fix is to just drill a hole in each tank and put a tube between the tanks. If you guessed KTM, you guessed right.
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Dec 9, 2023 18:08
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Just a hunch.
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Dec 11, 2023 01:17
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Regular battery tender for lead acid, Ctek 56-926 for 12V LFP.
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Feb 13, 2024 03:31
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Float valve. Those can leak and fill the crankcase with fuel.
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Mar 29, 2024 17:32
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hit the bricks pal! posted:Time to learn how to take apart a carburetor. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly except that you swear in different places.
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Mar 30, 2024 17:53
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The WR had this wax thermobulb much like you'd find in a thermostat that operated its cold start advance. The one on my bike was poo poo broken and I wasn't buying another entire loving throttle body. So it'd idle low and stall out if you tried to brap off immediately after starting. The broken TE510 in the bay next to mine has a choke despite being efi. It also has a hot start(decomp) lever.
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Apr 4, 2024 04:57
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Beve Stuscemi posted:That’s what’s known as a flat slide carb. The dirt-only DRZ E’s came with them (although I’m not sure if they came with THIS specific one). FCR39s were stock on the K/E bikes and are The Standard upgrade for all others. The TM40 is fine, a simpler flatslide than the FCR with less tuneability but it's generally a fine carb. I ran one on a dr650 that was punched out to 790. Finicky thing that it was.
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Apr 19, 2024 22:45
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Beve Stuscemi posted:So here’s an interesting one. I was out on the Goldwing yesterday on the freeway and noticed the temp gauge was up in the red. It was slowly oscillating between red and just below red but it was hot. Also check for debris built up around the radiator causing it to not flow properly. The fins. Between the screen and radiator in the front, if it has one. Between the radiator and fans behind it. Start with the coolant. Post up what you drain out.
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May 5, 2024 02:13
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I think there is both a mechanical flow restricting thermostat as well as a thermometer that measures coolant temp and turns the fans on, but I don’t know for sure. KTM as gently caress!
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May 6, 2024 01:19
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 14:40 |
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Two things. Suzuki electrics are poo poo garbage. Clean every ground, junction, and connection. You can actually get the 8 pin cluster connector as a knockoff on amazon. DRZs thrive on abuse and neglect. On the stock scooter engine the fan won't cycle much unless you're riding Johnson Valley in August, if you're worried wire an inline switch or whatever in with the thermoswitch. Mine would almost like clockwork overheat and kill a HG every summer when the suzuki thing would happen and the fan wouldn't work. But that bike wasn't stock and made a fair bit more heat and noise than the normal scoot.
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May 12, 2024 16:51
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