If you have a rattle gun I'd try that first, the nut looks pretty fused and you risk rounding off the hex and putting yourself in a world of strife
|
|
# ¿ Feb 3, 2024 05:32 |
|
|
# ¿ May 16, 2024 10:21 |
Yes it's exactly like a ball joint on a car, without some way of holding the middle piece it'll just spin instead of tightening.
|
|
# ¿ Feb 3, 2024 19:44 |
Make sure to use far too large a hose clamp and route it in a roundabout way, rubbing against several sharp edges
|
|
# ¿ Feb 12, 2024 04:54 |
Geekboy posted:I haven’t aired down previously because it’s usually impulsive, short trips. I should in the future, though. Imo if you're doing fine as you are, airing down likely isn't worth the hassle and will just increase wear/decrease safety on the pavement ride back to the air pump.
|
|
# ¿ Feb 14, 2024 23:55 |
The most thorough answer is to take them apart and look at the bushings but if that's a bigger pain than just buying new ones, buy new ones.
|
|
# ¿ Feb 18, 2024 21:05 |
The short answer is those are bullshit pseudo diagrams with no consistency. The wires going to the starter and to the battery are joined somewhere, usually the ring terminals overlap at the battery post or the fuse holder has two terminals that are being represented as one terminal there. Being a sportster iirc they are two overlapping ring terminals on the starter itself. They're all part of the same system/circuit physically, they're just arbitrarily split up for supposed ease of use or something. I have no idea why they represented the starter on the charging system diagram, but they are physically connected irl, although you never use the starter while the charging system is doing anything, by definition. Is this a Haynes manual or something? The Harley online manual diagrams don't look like that.
|
|
# ¿ Mar 14, 2024 17:55 |
Ffs Harley, that's absolutely dire
|
|
# ¿ Mar 14, 2024 18:50 |
You can get rust converter in both spray and brush on form, it turns the rust into stuff you can sand or paint straight over
|
|
# ¿ Mar 21, 2024 18:17 |
My inclination is more towards using a long thin paint brush from the art shop or something cause it's more controlled and tidy but idk depends on what inaccessible is
|
|
# ¿ Mar 21, 2024 18:34 |
Yeah leaving the tap on by itself shouldn't immediately cause that, it's likely got a tired or sticky float valve
|
|
# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 20:11 |
EFI bikes can come with a few throttle that automatically increases idle when cold, an idle air speed bypass system like a car, a mechanical idle speed control system, a manual idle speed increase device, or fucken nothing at all
|
|
# ¿ Apr 4, 2024 02:54 |
cursedshitbox posted:The WR had this wax thermobulb much like you'd find in a thermostat that operated its cold start advance. This is a very common contrivance on Yamahas of a certain era
|
|
# ¿ Apr 4, 2024 05:03 |
hit the bricks pal! posted:Finally got around to opening up my carb and I'm not seeing anything immediately problematic. I have the parts so I can replace the float valve anyway but is there something obvious that I'm missing that would point to the problem? Seems pretty clean in there. It might be that the oring on the valve seat isn't really fully sealing anymore, it looks pretty square in that pic
|
|
# ¿ Apr 7, 2024 19:46 |
Toe rag drain your airbox and see what comes outepswing posted:I'm getting around to replacing my starter, now that it's less frigid in my garage, and I have a question the little clip that holds 3 hoses coming out of my oil tank. On the stock starter, on the top there's a long bolt, and on the bottom there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads, and that's what the clip attaches to. On the aftermarker starter (it's the Alls Balls 1.4kw), on the bottom there's a long bolt, and on the top there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads. You could probably swap the bolts over, they hold the motor body to the casting. You could probably also just turn the clip upside down Your exhausts look pretty normal, the rear looks leaner because it runs hotter. In the absence of individual carbs per cylinder there will always be a compromise on the jetting between the two. That's just Harley life. You need to replace those gaskets btw.
|
|
# ¿ Apr 7, 2024 21:50 |
Imo if you're getting more heat with more speed it can only really be a clogged system or you have an engine problem
|
|
# ¿ May 6, 2024 02:23 |
Caliper slides sticky or the piston itself It's quite common on those things
|
|
# ¿ May 6, 2024 06:43 |
Nah it'll likely be poo poo built up inside the bore, often the bore itself is poorly machined and you just need to give it a brief hone. The other thing that happens is the pads sort of jam on the caliper, the fact that kicking it fixed it could point to that. Try lubing the area where they touch the caliper and sanding things down if there's any lumpiness.
|
|
# ¿ May 6, 2024 19:21 |
|
|
# ¿ May 16, 2024 10:21 |
If you're actually changing stuff then definitely If you're just doing standard stuff it's totally unnecessary, just replace everything stock for stock with standard settings, do your pilot and idle and that's it
|
|
# ¿ May 15, 2024 20:44 |