Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

If you have a rattle gun I'd try that first, the nut looks pretty fused and you risk rounding off the hex and putting yourself in a world of strife

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Yes it's exactly like a ball joint on a car, without some way of holding the middle piece it'll just spin instead of tightening.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Make sure to use far too large a hose clamp and route it in a roundabout way, rubbing against several sharp edges

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Geekboy posted:

I haven’t aired down previously because it’s usually impulsive, short trips. I should in the future, though.

Imo if you're doing fine as you are, airing down likely isn't worth the hassle and will just increase wear/decrease safety on the pavement ride back to the air pump.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The most thorough answer is to take them apart and look at the bushings but if that's a bigger pain than just buying new ones, buy new ones.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The short answer is those are bullshit pseudo diagrams with no consistency. The wires going to the starter and to the battery are joined somewhere, usually the ring terminals overlap at the battery post or the fuse holder has two terminals that are being represented as one terminal there. Being a sportster iirc they are two overlapping ring terminals on the starter itself.

They're all part of the same system/circuit physically, they're just arbitrarily split up for supposed ease of use or something. I have no idea why they represented the starter on the charging system diagram, but they are physically connected irl, although you never use the starter while the charging system is doing anything, by definition.

Is this a Haynes manual or something? The Harley online manual diagrams don't look like that.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ffs Harley, that's absolutely dire

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

You can get rust converter in both spray and brush on form, it turns the rust into stuff you can sand or paint straight over

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

My inclination is more towards using a long thin paint brush from the art shop or something cause it's more controlled and tidy but idk depends on what inaccessible is

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Yeah leaving the tap on by itself shouldn't immediately cause that, it's likely got a tired or sticky float valve

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

EFI bikes can come with a few throttle that automatically increases idle when cold, an idle air speed bypass system like a car, a mechanical idle speed control system, a manual idle speed increase device, or fucken nothing at all

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

cursedshitbox posted:

The WR had this wax thermobulb much like you'd find in a thermostat that operated its cold start advance.
The one on my bike was poo poo broken and I wasn't buying another entire loving throttle body. So it'd idle low and stall out if you tried to brap off immediately after starting.

The broken TE510 in the bay next to mine has a choke despite being efi. It also has a hot start(decomp) lever.

This is a very common contrivance on Yamahas of a certain era

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

hit the bricks pal! posted:

Finally got around to opening up my carb and I'm not seeing anything immediately problematic. I have the parts so I can replace the float valve anyway but is there something obvious that I'm missing that would point to the problem? Seems pretty clean in there.



It might be that the oring on the valve seat isn't really fully sealing anymore, it looks pretty square in that pic

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Toe rag drain your airbox and see what comes out



epswing posted:

I'm getting around to replacing my starter, now that it's less frigid in my garage, and I have a question the little clip that holds 3 hoses coming out of my oil tank. On the stock starter, on the top there's a long bolt, and on the bottom there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads, and that's what the clip attaches to. On the aftermarker starter (it's the Alls Balls 1.4kw), on the bottom there's a long bolt, and on the top there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads.

What do these bolts actually do, and am I meant to swap them around if necessary? Maybe I should just turn the clip upside down?





Here's the clip:



PS getting the a starter out of a Sportster sucks. The rear exhaust had to come off, fine, but the FSM doesn't say that due to the aforementioned clip, the clip needs to be removed, which means so does the plate in front of the front belt pulley, which means the front exhaust had to also come off :argh:

You could probably swap the bolts over, they hold the motor body to the casting. You could probably also just turn the clip upside down

Your exhausts look pretty normal, the rear looks leaner because it runs hotter. In the absence of individual carbs per cylinder there will always be a compromise on the jetting between the two. That's just Harley life. You need to replace those gaskets btw.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Imo if you're getting more heat with more speed it can only really be a clogged system or you have an engine problem

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Caliper slides sticky or the piston itself

It's quite common on those things

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Nah it'll likely be poo poo built up inside the bore, often the bore itself is poorly machined and you just need to give it a brief hone.

The other thing that happens is the pads sort of jam on the caliper, the fact that kicking it fixed it could point to that. Try lubing the area where they touch the caliper and sanding things down if there's any lumpiness.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

If you're actually changing stuff then definitely

If you're just doing standard stuff it's totally unnecessary, just replace everything stock for stock with standard settings, do your pilot and idle and that's it

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply