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I've gone solo backwards down the stairs with the RV90 before. It works, but I wouldnt suggest it with anything bigger.
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Nov 20, 2008 19:32
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Try just replacing the bulbs first. A light just burnt out on my 04 Focus, and I bought the high power H4's for it. The high power bulbs vs the 4 year old factory bulbs was night and day. The old bulbs had gotten pretty yellow as they aged, and the new ones throw out so much more light. Plus they're in the factory enclosures (which were designed for H4's), so all that light is very focused where it should be.
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Nov 26, 2008 15:56
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Glowing headers probably means its running lean. Being an 07 bike definitely means its running lean. Something like a powercommander, or a reflash of a different fuel map would take care of it, and maybe score you an extra horsepower or two. That being said, as long as its not knocking and pinging, its OK.
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Dec 2, 2008 21:25
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You dont know anyone with a trailer/truck/van/etc?
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Dec 2, 2008 22:15
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Taelrin posted:Before you rejet it you may think about checking if there is a PAIR valve. I've got a couple suzukis with them and one of the symptoms of a valve clogged with carbon will be backfiring with letting off the throttle. A bag of golf tees and half an hour will generally remedy the problem. No PAIR on the DRZ. pr0zac, head to the thumpertalk forums, and ask (or read about) what you should be running for jetting. I'd skip the dynojet kit. One, they're expensive as gently caress, and two, they dont use standard jet sizes. The guys at TT should be able to tell you what size jets to run. You may need to change the needle as well.
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Dec 3, 2008 20:45
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They're just being dumb and omitting the decimal. I'm sure they really mean 2.75/3.00-19 and 3.50/4.00-18
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Dec 4, 2008 17:34
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Anyone ever used HiFloFiltro air filters? I got one for free for the Bandit, and I'm wondering if they're any good at all, or if I should just stick with the OEM/K&N route? Anyone know anything about them?
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Dec 7, 2008 01:33
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Agreed. I've never come across a bike that couldnt be reliably ran at high RPM for an extended period. Assuming your bike is in good working order, it should be fine running at redline all day.
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Dec 7, 2008 22:15
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:I triple check that my backpack is completely zipped with the zippers on the side rather than the top every single time I get on my bike. One time I trusted my friend to close it for me and about $300 worth of gear went flying all over the highway never to be seen again. I usually just secure the zipper pulls with some twist ties. Works wonders, and gives me peace of mind.
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Dec 9, 2008 15:15
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Bandits as a whole are very reliable. The 600's dont have any real glaring issues to look out for, so be on the lookout for how well it was (or wasnt) taken care of. Look for signs of abuse (Check the rear fender for rubber from burnouts) and try to get a feel for how he treats the bike. Even an abused Bandit will still be fine, but evidence of burnouts and such will be good leverage on the price.
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Dec 10, 2008 16:08
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Terminus Est posted:Never used their air filters, but they make good oil filters. I can't imagine they're bad. Is it a paper type or an oiled foam type? Paper type.
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Dec 11, 2008 16:28
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QnoisX posted:Just finished applying some rim tape to my bike. Anyone have any issues with this stuff peeling off while you're riding down the road? It shouldn't, but I just wondered if I should be worried. Oh and here's a pic! I had tapeworks rimtape on my GSXR, and just for kicks one day I tried to peel a bit off to see how well it stuck on. It was pretty much completely bonded to the wheel. I wouldnt worry about it falling off. If you applied it on a clean wheel, it will be fine.
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Dec 12, 2008 15:23
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I think those bikes had cam issues, but someone more knowledgeable about VFR's will have to chime in here.
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Dec 12, 2008 17:47
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The fan on all the liquid cooled bikes I've owned didnt kick in until they were really hot (idling for a while, or in stop and go traffic)
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Dec 15, 2008 15:54
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Bean_ posted:What do you guys do to deal with rust in tanks (this is on a moped, tank is integral part of frame and cannot be removed)? Some preliminary reading has pointed to getting some "Evapo-rust" from autozone, but I figured someone here has got to have some more useful information. I tried Evapo-rust on my moped, it didnt work at all. I've heard mixed reviews about the POR-15 rust removal kit. The only way to really get the rust out reliably is with electrolysis: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ I've done this on a couple of tanks and its amazing. Completely de-rusted the tanks. And the best part about electrolysis is that it restores the metal by taking metal from the electrode, so the part doesnt thin out, which is especially important on tanks. What kind of moped? I have a Puch Maxi Sport, and the tank is shaped so weir internally that its just about impossible to clean.
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Dec 21, 2008 17:14
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:is that the same as the tank coating kit? i've never heard mixed reviews about that, they're all positive. i've used it twice. The rust removal kit is separate, but often packaged with the tank coating kit. The coating kit is phenominal, the rust removal kit isnt so great I've heard.
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Dec 22, 2008 02:21
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mr.belowaverage posted:Can you describe the physical set-up you use to do the tanks? I imagine it's pretty awkward doing the interior surface. I bought some thin metal bar from the hardware store, put the tank in a tupperware filled with water/washing soda. Then I put the bars in the tank so they ran all the way to the back, and bent upwards to come out the filler neck. You have to put tubing or a rubber cap on the end of the bars so they can butt up against the back of the tank without shorting, but it works.
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Dec 22, 2008 20:35
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mr.belowaverage posted:So, you immersed the entire tank, and the one electrode just juts in through the filler hole? Two electrodes, one going down each side of the tank, both jutting through the filler hole. Electrolysis is basically line-of-sight, so you want the electrode to go from the front to back, and you want one on each side of the frame hump.
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Dec 22, 2008 22:29
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The KH100 is a two stroke streetbike. Pretty cool looking little cafe runabout. This youtube video seems to imply that its good to about 65 or 70 mph. http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Kawasaki_KH100 http://www.bikepics.com/kawasaki/kh100/
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Jan 4, 2009 04:36
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Nerobro posted:Phat albert can fill in the Kawasakis. Lets not forget the small Hondas. There were of course CB/CL 125's. Sadly I dont know much about early small Kawis other than the F11-250 that I own. Which is definitely as enduro as it gets. A little research turns up some sweet small bikes from Kawi, however. http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Kawasaki_AR50 http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Kawasaki_AR80 http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Kawasaki_G7 http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Kawasaki_KZ200A http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Kawasaki_KZ250D
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Jan 4, 2009 17:54
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I would think the change from a 530 to 520 would only be noticeable if you were trying to shave hundredths off your ET or lap time.
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Jan 9, 2009 06:07
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Who the gently caress doesnt deal in cash?
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Jan 9, 2009 15:55
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Why arent people sourcing small Mikuni VM's or something rather than these goofy carbs? At least a VM has all the components of a normal full-size carb.
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Jan 14, 2009 16:23
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Better yet, do a 7/12. 750 chassis, Bandit 1200 bottom end/pistons/cylinders, and 1100 head and cams. The best of all worlds, but its alot more work.
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Jan 19, 2009 01:36
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It keeps most of the big grunt of the Bandit, but the wilder 1100 cams make the top end hit harder than either the 1100 Gixxer or the Bandit.
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Jan 19, 2009 02:13
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Simkin posted:drat, that sounds absolutely ridiculous. Any pics/videos of such a beast? Honestly I dont know much about them other than the fact that its been done more than a couple of times, and that it keeps the earth rotating torque of the Bandit, while adding the top-end hit that the Bandit lacks, and the GSXR has. It probably wouldnt look much different than any 7/11 out there, as all the oil cooled Suzuki motors look pretty much alike. Sorry I dont have a better answer than that.
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Jan 21, 2009 17:07
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It happens, especially with new boots, try to remember to make more positive shifts. If it happens all the time, or you have to slam the shifter to get it to shift, then its time to worry.
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Jan 24, 2009 00:16
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Check eBay too. A lot of times, manufacturers only cut a few thousand or so different keys, and just cycle them over and over. It relies purely on the one-in-a-few-thousand chance that you wont park your bike next to another one with the same key number. There are quite a few eBay sellers that specialize in bike keys.
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Jan 25, 2009 23:23
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basx posted:So I have my new Harley Sportster sitting in my garage, waiting for spring. You arent going to flip a Sporty over on yourself without really trying. Even on a steep driveway. That bike has more than enough torque to just lug you and it up the hill slowly. Feather the clutch out and ride up the hill with just a little gas. I think once you get going you'll realize its not as bad as you think.
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Jan 27, 2009 16:42
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So from your description, the driveway is not concrete? Is it mud/gravel/ice, or what? The seat on your sportster is mounted in front of the rear axle, so your weight just helps keep the front end down. Unless the hill is insanely steep enough to put the mass of your body over/behind the axle. If you're to that point, its a whole other story then.
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Jan 27, 2009 17:48
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Who can tell me about Pirelli Diablo Stradas? I'm normally a Michelin fan, but I'm reading alot of great reviews on the Pirellis, and their price cant be beat. Anyone like them? Hate them? I'm looking for something for the Bandit that will offer a combination of good grip and longevity.
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Feb 2, 2009 04:03
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I ran the FCR39 on my DRZ, and I can tell you one thing, its like a motor swap. Its a whole different game with that carb on there. Throttle response, and acceleration is through the roof compared to stock. I didnt have a hard time dialing mine in at all. I just followed the directions from thumpertalk. The only thing I did have to play with was the accellerator pump. The carb I got was off a YZ426, so the pump cycle was way too long. I shortened it up a good amount, and it was done. With minimal fiddling, I had it running 10x better than the stocker. Before you go dropping half a grand on that carb, look around eBay. I got my carb for $120 out the door. I then bought the appropriate jets and needle, and it was all done for around $170. A far cry from $561, and it was the same setup. Either way you do it, its highly recommended. Get your poo poo from eBay and save the other $400 for the wheelie tickets you'll get.
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Feb 3, 2009 23:40
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pr0zac posted:How badly did your fuel mileage suffer? I got 85 miles to a full tank on Sunday flogging the crap out of the thing. If its going to drop substantially I'll probably throw a larger tank onto the pile of purchases I'm not telling my girlfriend about also. Honestly I have no idea. I never really paid attention to the mileage much, as it was mostly an in-town bike for me. That being said, if the mileage changed, it wasnt enough for me to notice either way. Dubs posted:That kit is sold out constantly, and they dont restock very much. Check ebay. Like I hinted at in my above post, the key is to search for bikes that came with FCRMX's in stock form. I know there was a thread somewhere on Thumpertalk that listed all the bikes that came with an FCR from the factory. The eBay auction I won was for a 2001 YZ426 carb, FCRMX wasnt mentioned anywhere in the auction. Yet I scored the same carb you can buy from ThumperTalk for $500 for just $120. There isnt any other way to go in my mind.
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Feb 4, 2009 04:05
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pr0zac posted:This is the correct carb right? http://is.gd/ioNl Looks like it, just want a second opinion considering it says it has the TPS which the DRZ directions mention isn't on the kit. Thats it if memory serves. Doesnt matter if you run the TPS or not. The DRZ runs fine with or without it. Bear in mind you'll have to rejet that carb probably, since I cant imagine the Polaris and DRZ take the same jetting, but thats not a big deal.
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Feb 4, 2009 22:23
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cmorrow001 posted:Phatty, Just different size bores. I dont know that there was a real difference on the DRZ. A stock DRZ head wont flow enough that the 39 becomes the limiting factor, let alone the 41.
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Feb 4, 2009 22:36
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DiZ posted:Yeah I have the part number for those washers here, I as going to order some and the dude at the shop told me I would not need to, however the washer looks like it has seen better days, the bolts are all retorqued so if the leak persists I will replace the washer. You can sometimes anneal copper washers in a pinch. Might want to try that. Take the washer out and hit it with a torch until its glowing red. Then let it cool naturally (i.e. dont dip it in water or something). Put it back in and retorque everything and see how it does.
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Feb 8, 2009 18:39
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Ola posted:Take 15 minutes one time after riding in heavy rain to remove the seat and tank and see if water pools anywhere, make provisions for draining accordingly. Chances are the designers got it right and it doesn't! Unless you ride an SV 
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Feb 9, 2009 15:43
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Still mulling over tires for the Bandit. Anyone have any comments on Conti Road Attacks? They seem to get great reviews, and phenomenal mileage. http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tires/road-attack.php http://onewheeldrive.net/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=475&Itemid=130 Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Feb 10, 2009 |
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Feb 10, 2009 22:22
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All the reviews seem to say that they are stiff tires with great feedback. How long ago did you run them?quote:Additionally, they are very communicative tires, which may be a love or hate characteristic depending on the rider. Where the Pilot Roads are almost numb by comparison, the Road Attacks communicate every weird road surface to the rider. I feel like I know exactly what's going on. quote:Unlike Bridgestones, (also known for a stiff carcass) the Conti's do not sacrifice ride. The Bridgestones I've ridden tend to provide a very harsh ride where even the smallest bumps are felt all the way to my fillings. I suspect because the Conti's use a zero-degree belt, just like Pilot Roads, Metzelers and Pirelli's, the tires provide a very predictable yet smooth ride
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Feb 10, 2009 22:42
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 13:19 |
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MaiaN posted:This sounds encouraging. Is it something a complete novice could accomplish with the right book? Its literally a Tab A Slot B affair, there isnt much to go wrong other than making sure you have the rings on the right way. Its a little messy sometimes if you have a liquid cooled engine, but otherwise it couldnt be simpler.
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Feb 12, 2009 15:56
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