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Reposting it here for if people don't follow the thread specifically about my FZR. https://i.imgur.com/OAb2MkN.mp4 I was cleaning my chain today. I discovered this amount of play when pulling on the gear. This is not normal, isn't it? Are there rubber damping blocks inside the wheel that have to be replaced, or is something actually broken? Or are those rubber things very soft in their unloaded position and is it fine to be able to compress them by hand? I did not notice a big amount of play in the drive line. No feeling as if there's too much slack in the chain, so idk. I'm fine with riding it as is, but i don't want to run the risk of something catastrophically failing. Getting a bit tired of it. Bought it as a bike to learn how to work on bikes, and it's teaching me. Hard. Whacking me on my hands with a ruler each time like an old school teacher. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 13:58
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Alright, that's good. It doesn't move more when i push the bike backwards in gear, making the bike's weight put force onto the cush drive. It feels fine when riding. Tire's just been replaced, haven't even run them in yet. I've never noticed it before, so i didn't ask for it to be done while the wheel was off.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:43
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Alright, thanks, i'll leave them for now and actually start riding the bike for a change. Sagebrush posted:
No regrets here either. I've learned stuff that's valuable to me for as long as we're able to ride conventional bikes. But i'm very happy i have the SV650s in fine working condition so i can always ride when i feel like it.
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Mar 19, 2023 19:30
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The 300cc class is limited because of the European A2 licence class that limits power output to 35kW. I don't think it's an euro 5 issue. Check out the power of all those 300cc things and you'll probably find that many of them put out exactly 35kW/48hp. E: Or am i confusing those with 500cc? I know the newest CBF500 was 48hp because of the a2 rules, instead of 55ish before that licence class was introduced. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Apr 3, 2023 |
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Apr 3, 2023 07:07
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I like the Battlax T32 on my SV so far. Haven't done any hard riding in the rain, but the feel solid at normal traffic speeds. Also no issues in almost freezing weather. Much better than the pilot road on this bike. No experience with the other tires mentioned in this thread
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Apr 11, 2023 13:25
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Invalido posted:I turned the key too far counterclockwise again and left the sv650 with the parking light lit for a few hours. Bike still starts but it's probably just a matter of time before this feature leaves me stranded with a dead battery in an inconvenient place. Is there a known non-destructive way to disable this function? The ignition swich has multiple contacts, one of them is for switching on the parking lights. Pull off that specific wire (or cut it and isolate it in a tidy way) and it's done. Check the service manual if there's a diagram that shows which switch position connects which wires or terminals. I'm a bit too tired to check it for you right now.
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Apr 21, 2023 19:36
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Although bolts are easily replaced, a set of dies is extremely nice to have if that one bolt you need to get in properly, has a messed up thread. You can choose: spend an hour going to the hardware store to get one single bolt, or chase the bolt's thread with a die.
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Apr 24, 2023 09:53
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How did you use the choke (if at all)?
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May 7, 2023 20:25
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Slavvy posted:If you like square and blunt, Michelin make the pilot road 5 Battlax T32. I have them on my SV650 after first having Michelin Pilot Road because of rain riding. Completely transformed the bike. I recognize the struggle of fighting the bike into a corner with those pilot roads. For commuting, the Michelins are exquisite. But one of the reasons why i bought the FZR600 is that the SV just sucked to wrestle into and through a corner. After getting rid of the Pilot Roads after a puncture, i felt like i had a new bike.
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May 11, 2023 09:06
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The SV's front brake system overhaul is done. Revision kit for master cylinder, calipers, new pistons and new brake lines. I'm running into a problem now. I have to pump the brake to get the lever to feel hard, and for the lever travel to be normal. The lever doesn't sink while i'm holding it. I've been trying to bleed the system for a while. At the moment, no bubbles come out of the bleed nipples anymore. At first, a lot of air bubbled out of the reservoir line (which got sucked up and pumped in again a bunch of times until i figured out i had to squeeze the little line to get the bubbles out). But by now, nothing is coming out anymore. There are no leaks. However, since everything is replaced - am i right to assume there is *still* some bubble trapped somewhere? The only other option i can think of is that somehow during cleaning a piece of dirt managed to get into a passage in the MC somewhere. But that thing was perfectly clean when i was done with it, so to me it doesn't seem very likely. Brakes release well. Bubbles somewhere - yes or no? LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 17:43 on May 13, 2023 |
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May 13, 2023 17:37
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MetaJew posted:So you did all new pistons, oil seal (is that the right name?) and dust seals on the caliper? quote:Have you taken the caliper off and pumped the lever to see how evenly both pistons are moving? If one is sticking or not coming out smoothly it could be a sign that your seals are sticking or binding. quote:Pressing the pistons all the way in could try to force any fluid and air in the piston back up to the master cylinder, or at least closer to the bleeder nipple.
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May 13, 2023 18:00
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Literally everything that is not the body, reservoir and lever of the master cylinder, the distributor pipe, and the caliper bodies (cylinders) was replaced. The solution turned out to be to push back the pistons and pump them out a couple of times, as MetaJew suggested. The brakes are better than i've ever had them on this bike. Rock hard and very light to operate. They still make an odd 'Squonk' noise when coming to a complete stop, but i reckon that's from the brake disk not having been used for a month or so. I'm incredibly happy with how they turned out  but i also have to get used to having brakes that require a lot less force. Emergency stop drill time!
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May 13, 2023 19:00
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_7zHy9jn4k Alan Millyard's V8 bike has a centre stand with a ratcheting mechanism that you pump a couple times with your feet to slowly make it get onto the stand. It, of course, has a special little storage space for the ratcheting spanner under the seat.
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May 18, 2023 10:46
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Wheelies as a novice? Yeah... no. Worst advice ever. If you learn clutch and throttle control the normal way, there's not a huge chance of whisky throttle because you have trained yourself to be able to modulate those as appropriate. At the very worst, if you really panic, you can just pull in the clutch and all your acceleration will be gone instantly. Most of those videos you see on youtube and whatever are with someone who pretty much just dumps the clutch, sometimes even before they get their feet on the pegs, and shoots forward. You shouldn't be dumping the clutch. If you have a learner appropriate bike, it's really not that big of a deal. If you have an inappropriate bike, you've set yourself up for a much steeper learning curve.
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May 19, 2023 10:44
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Stick out your foot to greet someone back, if both your hands are busy. The nod if you have already greeted like 10 other bikers and you're spending more time waving then riding.
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May 21, 2023 09:14
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TotalLossBrain posted:That seems strange as I've used those magnet type sensors on different bicycles over multiple years in up to 115F temperatures. One bike used the same magnet over 20,000 miles / 7 years https://www.apexmagnets.com/news-how-tos/how-temperatures-affect-neodymium-magnets/ Extended exposure to temperatures over 80 deg C are harmful to neodymium magnets.
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May 23, 2023 20:31
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Tighten them with oily hands. Problem solved.
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May 29, 2023 10:43
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It is easy to protect a device you're gonna connect to a battery:  If you reverse the polarity of the incoming supply (so swapping + and - of the battery on the left) the diode will conduct and short out the battery via the fuse, instantly blowing the fuse (if it's dimensioned right, you'll need a pretty fat diode for this job). If you need, i can help find a easily available diode for you that's up to the job, if you tell me the size of your fuse. However, it will not protect in a 'charge one bike from the other but the polarity is incorrect' scenario. Edit: my brain's foggy, let me overthink that one again. When it comes to chargers - most chargers are protected against reverse polarity. If not, they're a terrible design. If you hook up those connectors with lugs straight onto your battery, you'll have enough fault current available to cleanly blow a fuse. It will protect against short circuits pretty well, as long as it's not a 'damaged cable rubbing against corroded metal that barely conducts' kind of short. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jun 1, 2023 |
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Jun 1, 2023 16:08
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The diode wil work, but it needs to be on the 'client' side, on the thing you're sending power to - from your bike. The fuse needs to be on the side of your bike. Mounting the diode on the side of your bike only does something, if your battery is so incredibly weak, that another good battery hooked up in reverse, has the power to completely reverse the polarity of your battery. You can mount a diode such as a U30D40C (€2,88 from Farnell). 30a continuous, 250a peak current. Or a LQA30T300, also 30a with a peak current of 200a. I recommend not using these with fuses higher than 25a. Ideally 15a. The bigger the overload, the faster it'll blow and the smaller the chance of blowing up the diode before the fuse goes. The voltage drop is between 1,5 and 2v, meaning that the reverse voltage applied to the load will not exceed those voltages. In general, the load will survive that. There is a non-zero chance that if the load has a built in polarity protection that works in exactly the same way, that it'll blow more quickly, if the diode voltage drop is too high, but without a bit of reverse engineering there's no way of knowing that. If you can, mount smaller fuses, so you can use smaller diodes that have a lower voltage drop like the BYQ28E-200,127 (10a continuous, 50a peak, less than 1 euro). I recommend using a 5a fuse so it blows rapidly enough to not exceed the time limit that's associated with the peak current the diode can handle. The diodes are designed to be mounted on a heat sink but that won't be necessary - the fuse should blow instantly, before the diode has the chance to heat up.
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Jun 2, 2023 10:44
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You essentially have to add an extra alternator if you wanna power an off the shelf charger. Some RVs have an extra alternator because it's sometimes easier to add a whole extra alternator with associated battery, than to have euro 7 emissions-related battery management (charges only when brake pedal is depressed etc) play nice with a household battery. Depending on the vehicle it may or may not be a realistic option. If somehow you can find a charger that doesn't consume more than let's say 500w, then using the stock alternator could be an option. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jun 9, 2023 |
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Jun 9, 2023 00:41
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Pilot roads and SVs are not the greatest combination. Am very happy that i switched away from them. Buttons on my SV were crusty too. And after 23 years the brakes were about 5 years overdue for a complete overhaul. You should check yours out for any gelatinous gunk that has accumulated over time. It's not that much newer. But that has nothing to do with the pulsing, though LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Aug 18, 2023 |
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Aug 18, 2023 08:33
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It's called 'dieseling'. 9 out of 10 times harmless. Some carbs have a fuel shutoff solenoid (many old cars have one) and if that one is sticky or intentionally removed because of unreliable action, it can cause the effect you describe. Do check your plugs for carbon deposits, they make the effect worse. In especially bad cases with especially hot engines it can keep running for as long as the engine's properly hot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOzo1gIs9dU&t=23s Of course, you can easily shut off the engine by throwing it in gear. It usually doesn't have the power to keep running under load.
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Sep 6, 2023 07:58
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Made it myself from some transparent plastic sheet. Same experience - worked for a couple rides, then started leaking again.
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Sep 7, 2023 07:53
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Mirconium posted:Just hit an absolutely massive pothole straight on at medium speed, now bike is "falling" into turns, like easy to lean, gotta muscle it out of the lean, has tendency to increase lean. Falls to both sides about the same amount. Most likely culprit bent forks? Did you check tire pressure after the hit/before your current ride? The symptoms you describe are exactly what it feels like to ride on way too soft tires. Tires and wheels can get damaged from a pothole. Not excluding what Slavvy says, but first check the easiest things to fix...
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Oct 10, 2023 07:15
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True true. The impact must be incredibly heavy to dent the rim and make it leak slightly, or to pinch puncture the tire so it might not be it, although the symptoms are very much like i would describe riding with way too little pressure in the tire. That kind of impact damage is fairly common in stamped steel car wheels, but in cast alloy bike wheels? I have no idea.
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Oct 10, 2023 17:01
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Seconding the 'get a digital multimeter' (or an expensive accurate analog one if that's your kink) 12,0v is too little for a battery that's not being discharged. 12,6-12,8v is the resting voltage of a lead-acid battery not under load, a day after charging or so. Fresh off the charger it will be something over 13v. While revving your engine a bit, your charge voltage should be at the very least 13,8v. Ideally, the voltage is 14,4v. There's a certain degree of fingerspitzengefühl when diagnosing bad batteries, but if you have a fully charged battery resting at 12,6v, and you turn on high beam and brake lights at the same time, battery voltage shouldn't drop dramatically. If it dips half a volt, it's probably bad. This should be a sticky thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962805 LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 10:02
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With regards to alligator clip leads - don't get the separate clip leads, get measurement leads with alligator clips. And don't buy the meters that are below 15 euro. 9 times out of 10 a set of alligator clip leads comes with copper clad steel conductors and badly crimped on clips, which will make everything you do with them work in very unpredictable ways. I've seen the guys at my moto shop gently caress around and be misled by them. Also, do not try to measure the current draw of your motorcycle while starting (it's something between 50 and 200 amps and it'll very quickly roast your meter or your test leads, whatever is thinnest). Or how much your battery can deliver - it's a couple hundred amps and will do the same.
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Oct 21, 2023 21:52
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Get a spray bottle and mist some water over the ignition parts and see if it gets worse. What does the spark plug look like? Wet/fuely/sooty by any chance?
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Dec 18, 2023 21:31
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shacked up with Brenda posted:Did all that - no response, spark plugs new. Do you mean 'the spark plugs are freshly installed' or 'the spark plugs look as if they were never used'? Checking the plugs can tell you if an engine is running too lean or too rich. If it loses spark, i'd expect a damp, possibly somewhat sooty plug.
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Dec 18, 2023 21:38
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Run it for a bit to get the oil to circulate, let it sit, and see if the level dropped. Perhaps the filter still contains some air etc. I would always go by sight glass/dip stick rather than putting a fixed amount. But do verify that the level doesn't drop too much LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 02:09
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Did you buy that bike like that? It looks like it's not worn too much, but it most definitely is not the right tire size for the rim. Don't ride it.
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Jan 20, 2024 20:44
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It's probably fine. It's a bike, you're literally sitting on top of the engine so you can smell everything. My FZR wafts big clouds of smelly steam in the rain, it's absolutely hilarious. Choo choo motherfucker! One of the PO's has wrapped the exhaust in fibre glass and that appears to absorb some water, making it boil off in a couple tens of seconds instead of instantly. But lightly tap your brake calipers (not the disks, if those turn out to be scorching hot, you'll get a blister in no time) with your fingers to check if they're not stupid hot from dragging. Then check your tires for weird wear patterns to ensure nothing is rubbing against them (been there, it was a luggage strap, didn't harm the tire but the strap got worn half way through, fuckkk so that's what i was smelling). Also check if nothing has gotten stuck to the exhaust system, like a plastic bag or part of your luggage or something like it. Then again, it's a KTM 390, and those apparently run very lean so they might as well actually run too hot without modifying the injection mapping. Wait for someone to chime in about that. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Jan 27, 2024 |
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Jan 27, 2024 11:05
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I bought an impact gun and it made life so much easier. Also some extra hex keys that i cut off so i can stick them into a socket. Janky as gently caress and not at all meant for the maximum torque output that the impact gun can deliver, but it made it possible to get loose things that i literally couldn't get loose with a hex key and an extension tube twice already. Just don't hover over the thing, in cases something lets go and gets flung away at the speed of sound. There are actually purpose made things available:  But for one job i needed a longer one that could reach into the FZR's fork leg, and for the other job - it wasn't in stock in the size i need (half inch to 6 and 8mm) they're quite hard to actually buy here in those sizes, often coming with quarter inch drive which would require me to find a half inch to quarter inch adapter and god knows if *that* will be impact rated and blahblahblah... It's not often that those smaller hex bolts are seized *that* badly. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Feb 3, 2024 |
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Feb 3, 2024 11:31
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Get more DRZs
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Mar 31, 2024 11:28
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If they're copper crush washers and you don't wanna spend a bunch of shipping cost on like 50 cents worth of washers, you can also use some fine (400 or 600 grit) waterproof sandpaper to sand them smooth. Then hold them in a hot gas flame until cherry red, and immediately drop into a glass of water to quench. Copper gets soft when quenched. Give a light sanding to get rid of any oxidation that might have happened, and it's ready for reuse. Takes like 10 minutes in total. I don't bother with it when i have the right size on hand, but if i'm stuck and i don't want to wait for the next parts order and don't want to spend an hour going to a parts shop, i'll tidy them up and reuse.
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May 3, 2024 16:27
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Me neither, but we have a gas hob in the kitchen so that's what i typically use.
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May 4, 2024 08:01
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