Question Thread: Apply throttle directly to forehead

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > Question Thread: Apply throttle directly to forehead

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

Not incredibly stupid, more like just stupid. The biggest issue with the big twin is that it will be very sensative to throttle inputs, even at lower RPM, simply because of how much grunt the engine has from just off idle. And with 60-ish foot pounds of torque, even at lower RPM, you're going to be able to power wheelie it off the throttle in first gear alone, plus the engine braking will be monsterous.

I'd strongly push you in the direction of something else. Buy a cheap beater and pick up the Buell as a 2nd bike.

Firstly, the engine braking on my XB12SS is actually significantly less than my SV650 ever was. When I got my Buell, I was under the same impression you were (and I haven't ridden the XB9's, only my 12), but it turned out that one of the things Buell did was to take a lot of the engine braking out. It's still there, but the revs drop a lot slower than you'd think. The throttle input is actually very smooth as well, when I first got it, I was riding around with my jaw dropped as I was very surprised how easy it was to ride.

I'm not necessarily advocating the XB9 as a good learner bike, but I will say that my XB12 is easier to ride (throttle-wise) than my SV was, by far. My SV did need some carb work, so it was a little herky-jerky under 3k, but between the exceptionally touchy throttle and huge amounts of engine braking, it was a huge challenge to learn on it, and frankly, I'm really surprised it never got the better of me.

The SV was much easier to steer however, as the Buells weight is focused lower, and it's heavier than the SV, which means you have to put a little more effort into steering it. I will say that new Pilot Power 2CT's did make the handing a lot better though.

# ¿ Oct 6, 2008 12:19

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 09:24

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

Interesting. I'll have to see if I can steal a test ride from someone on one then. I was going off of the Harleys that I've ridden, which will come off the gas pretty hard.

I also hear that buells are very, very sensative to suspension changes.

Please do, I'd be curious to hear what you (and anyone else who can get a testride) has to say. I can't say much about the suspension, as I checked the manual and the preloads matched my weight as they were, so I just went with it.

The local dude who changed my tires ($55 total, wheels on the bike with old tire disposal!) was raving about it after his little test ride, never having ridden one before.

# ¿ Oct 7, 2008 00:39

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Well, after the first time out on some trails, and her crashing a bunch of times, we've determined that we need to make some adjustments to my fiances KL250 Sherpa. She seems convinced that she needs to sell it, but a dirtbike with a really low seat height, and legalize it for the road, and I'm more of the mind that we need to modify the already legal Sherpa to suit her needs.

Basically, it's ALL seat height at this point, as when she comes to a stop, she is on the very tip-toes. And after crashing a few times on the trails we were on (enough to bend the stock bars), her confidence is basically shot, so much so that even riding on some dirt roads, she was exceptionally nervous.

Here's what we've got for options:
a) I found some lowering links online, which should lower the back about an inch and a half, but she needs new tires, which will cut into that (the current tires are moderately worn) by .75" or so (estimate). I'm of the opinion that lowering links plus shaving the seat should get her where she needs to be, but she's not sure. So, our other option:

b) Sell the Sherpa for basically what we've got into it (we replaced the bars, and it's still basically perfect), pick up a new or used small dirtbike (this would depend entirely on seat height, not displacement, though I think a 2-stroke would be out), and then get it legal on the road. Lights, horn, blinkers, etc. Is this as big of a fuckin' pain as I think it's going to be?

c) find a lower seat-height, dual-sport option? I thought we'd basically found the lowest-seat-height option in the Sherpa, but frankly, I'm not entirely convinced as we kinda had to move on it pretty quick.

To give you an idea what we're after seat-height wise, her road bike is a Ninja 250 with a shaved seat that she can pretty much flat foot on. So, maybe.. 26" seat height or so? We're basically looking at those ~85cc learner dirtbikes for the young moto-x-er. Given that they don't seem to be wired for much in terms of electronics, I'm assuming it would be a loving drag to legalize one of these for the road.

Or I guess we pick up a trailer.

# ¿ Oct 11, 2008 16:06

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

I think the heat is just a byproduct of being close to the rear cylinder. When the under-seat fan wasn't working for mine, even in 60 degree weather was seriously sweatin' balls (literally). Once I got that fixed, it was much better, but it wouldn't surprise me if the heat on the battery is just from the engine.

# ¿ Mar 16, 2009 01:13

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

MrZig posted:

You should try riding a three wheeler ATC. The slightest imput to turn causes it to try and tip over. It's a whole bucket of fun to just turn sharply and try to balance on the two wheels.

There's a great scene in the 'Diamonds are Forever' (says the internet) where a whole pack of three wheelers (on big fat desert sand spec tires) give chase to James Bond in a.. wait for it.. a moon buggy. Anyway, they look like THE most ponderous, ill-handling, floppy, tipsy method of transportation I can think of.

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# ¿ Sep 24, 2009 02:29

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Christobevii3 posted:

The starter button on an atv is on the left and on my motorcycle is on the right. I'm sorry guys, I always hit my horn to start my motorcycle...

True story, I actually hit the horn to start my motorcycle... at the DMV.. when I was in line.. (wait for it) to take my DMV test the first time. (I failed, btw)

Nervous as a motherfucker, and I'll be damned if it wasn't right in the middle of a dude making his run through. He didn't fail though, so it was alright.

# ¿ Sep 25, 2009 00:15

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Anyone think they know what's wrong with my KLR650? It's sat since August 25th, and it ran great when I parked it.

What it'll do (lets see how to explain this)
a) it will start with the choke fully engaged, but it will only hover at 1k rpm (instead of the normal 3k) or so, and it'll die if i try to give it any throttle (even slowly applied).
b) if, with the choke engaged (and throttle slightly engaged), i start it, I can get it up into the 3k+ rpm area, where it runs, revs, has plenty of power, etc. It will stay going if i disengage the choke here, as well. It will die if i release the throttle.
c) it will turn over till the cows home home with no throttle and no choke, but won't catch (thankfully I have a good battery)

edit: using a combination of clever throttle manipulation and multiple close calls, I did take it for about a 15 minute ride, and it ran fine anytime it was above idle. Weird.

Thoughts?

Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Oct 8, 2009

# ¿ Oct 8, 2009 23:57

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Thanks Nero, I'll give that a shot. What caused it? just sitting too long?

# ¿ Oct 9, 2009 00:59

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

obso posted:

Those cost 5 times what the kenda's do tho. I'm not really looking to replace my street tires, just something to throw on when I want to go backroading or if it's snowing (they have to work better than the current street tires for that). I think I'm ok clearance wise, might have to raise the front fender a little but that's no thing. And I was going to run tubes since they say they are tubeless.

I was mainly just concerned with their sub 50mph street performance. I'm not trying to drag knees with them, I just don't want them wondering around too much on on-ramps and such.

I have these on my KLR, and they're a little wooly on the street, but only until you get used to them moving around on you a bit. After that, they'll keep up with most things you throw at them, street-wise.

They're noisy though, being full knobs, and they're quite good off-road, but yeah, you'll need tubes obviously.

All-in-all, I like them.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2009 15:27

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Nerobro posted:

not weird. You have a gunked up pilot circuit. Clean the jet, remove the mixture screw and clean that and it's passage. reasemble, and you'll be starting like you used to.

Hmm... i pulled my carb apart, and put it all back together, and it does run as good as it did BUT.. it's pissing fuel out of the overflow tube now.

What does this likely mean? I had the top cap off, and the float bowl cover off as well. I didn't adjust anything (Apart from taking the pilot mixture screw out, and putting it back in, main jet as well, both returned back to where they were).

Thoughts? Float bowl stuck in the 'gimme fuel!' position was what I was leaning towards. Unfortunately, daylight is gone so fast now that it's up for the night, so I won't be able to test any potential fixes until tomorrow.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2009 00:19

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

Sounds like the float is stuck. Try tapping the poo poo out of it. If that doesn't fix it, tear it down and make sure the float is opening and closing easily and smoothly.

Cool, not looking forward to trying to get that carb out again, but maybe i can just spin it in the boots (I hope). I'll try tapping it first.

I was extremely pleased it was running very well, until I noticed the gas pouring out.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2009 00:42

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

Sounds like the float is stuck. Try tapping the poo poo out of it. If that doesn't fix it, tear it down and make sure the float is opening and closing easily and smoothly.

Took it apart, and there was a couple small pieces of poo poo in the float bowl (likely from when the tank fell over and lodged dirt in the fuel valve -- i thought I got it all outta there with air/carb cleaner), so I assume it was affecting the float.

It was working great though... very pleased.

# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 01:08

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

niethan posted:

My KLR's carb is dripping petrol out of the overflow tube when I idle, I figure it's a stuck float needle or some poo poo in my carb, I'm at a place with no proper tools right now, is it safe to ride it like 20 miles in the state it is in?

How quickly is it dropping out? When my float was stuck open recently, it was pouring out, so it'd only stay running for a minute or so before it would flood itself. If it stays running, I say go for it, as the exhaust is on the other side.

# ¿ Oct 31, 2009 13:52

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

I loving hate carburetors.

So, the problem I had a few weeks ago was apparently never fixed. I had cleaned the poo poo out of the carb (and drained out the gas), and taken it for a 30-45 minute drive a few weeks ago, and it ran like it used to. Last week, I took it out for a longer ride, and when I was about 30 minutes from home, I clutched in to turn around, and it died, revs just dropped down at a normal pace like it was returning to idle, but then it died.

I got it running again by holding the throttle about half-open to start, and then holding it there, and every stoplight/sign etc was a barrel of fun, as I have to hold the throttle or rev it like a jackass to keep it from stalling out.

"gently caress, pilot jet is dirty again, guess I'll have to clean it out... again"

So I set to that task this morning, pulled the carb out, cleaned the outside first, then the inside, didn't adjust anything, just disassemble/clean/reassemble.

However, now it's proper hosed. It'll start (initially with just a choke, and later only with half-throttle) and the revs jump up to 3k or so, where it sits. It will sit there, revving happily at 3k and then, with no prompting, the revs drop.. drop.. drop.. sputter.. die. If I touch the throttle during this process, it'll rev itself back up to 3k and hang out there but then it'll stall itself out again.

What the gently caress is going on here? All I want to do is get the loving thing running/into storage so I can sell the fucker in the spring.

Anyone have any ideas? This is frustrating.

# ¿ Nov 7, 2009 17:43

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

dietcokefiend posted:

Welcome to the reason I sold my ZX600

Check the float inlets, make sure nothing is caught in that area that might plug one of the carbs. I ran into this about 3 times from different sections of the same oring that was floating around in the fuel inlet piping.

This is just getting more and more weird.

So, I took the carb apart again-again..again.. and vigorously checked all the little pinholes and yadda yadda, and put it back together.

VOILA! It started up, ran and (more importantly) idled great.. So I hopped on, in the dark, and took it out for a spin. Ran great, plenty of power, I would periodically clutch in to see if it was okay, the the revs dropped to idle every time.

So I pull into the spot in front of my car with clutch in.. back it up to get it closer to the curb, and pull back forward. Get it into position, and the revs drop... drop.. drop.. and it stalls? I try to start it, and it just cranks, until I give it about half throttle, then it starts again.. and slowly dies. What sort of problem only happens after half an hour on the bike at varying speeds/throttles?

What sort of hex has my bike acquired ALL FROM SITTING A WEEK TOO LONG WITHOUT MOVING. gently caress. :suicide:

# ¿ Nov 9, 2009 00:10

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

dietcokefiend posted:

What is the routing like on your fuel line? One time I had a fuel line juuuust kinked enough where as the bike warmed up and I took it out on the highway, it cutoff all power in the middle of rush hour traffic. Make sure it has nice broad curves to it.

It's roughly 6" long, goes straight from the left side of the tank into the left side of the carb, and it's a pretty straight shot.. but I'll take a look again.

Z3n posted:

Is your tank rusting out?

The symptoms seem to be:

Bike runs like poo poo.
Clean carbs.
Bike runs great for awhile, runs like poo poo.
Clean carbs, bike runs great for awhile...

Sounds like you've got poo poo that's getting introduced to your fuel system somehow, or you're getting lovely gas.

Well, tank isn't rusting, because it's plastic.. the gas *should* be fine, I've definitely replaced it since the initial issue a few weeks ago. What I was thinking was that maybe my air filter is letting poo poo go through, as both times I have incorporated some dirt roads on my test rides, and both times I've pulled the carb out, there have been tiny bits of dirt sitting in the bottom of the float.

I guess that's next on my list, too, when I pull the carb out a fourth time.

The upside is I'm getting pretty good at it.. I can usually have it out in about 15 minutes. Getting it back in is a bit more difficult though.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2009 23:50

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Amusingly, with my custom tank, I.. have no fuel filter? Kind of odd, now that I think about it. And in looking in my Clymer manual, it doesn't appear the KLR comes with one. Time to invest in one, methinks.

I'll take a look at the petcock too.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2009 00:06

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

Ok, well, the dirt is the problem.

The real question is how is it getting into your float bowls? There should be no way for it to go from the airbox into the float bowls, it can only be coming from upstream. Gas goes out of the float bowls and there's basically no real way for dirt to flow back into them. Have you checked that the gas tank hasn't gotten filled with dirt somehow?

<raises hand> that'd be me. Not once, but TWICE, I set the tank down on the ground, which subsequently filled the tip of the fuel valve with dirt.

I felt like I did a good job cleaning both times, plenty of carb cleaner/compressed air/carb cleaner/compressed air.. but apparently I may not have done a good enough jobby. I suppose it doesn't take a huge amount of poo poo to cause issues in as fine an instrument as a carb.

Alright, so, reclean carb, clean air filter (including blowing the air intake tube out backwards), puling off the fuel valve/disassembling and cleaning.

Ugh.. the first time was (somewhat) understandable, the second time was completely not, I just wasn't paying attention. Blech.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2009 02:04

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

n8r posted:

A bike that runs well for 30 minutes then acts weird isn't symptomatic of a bike with a dirty carb. After it dies, when you let it sit for a while then try to run it again is it cured? Have you gone out and tried to run it since having the dying problem again? Honestly, it sounds more like you either ran out of gas, or your gas tank isn't venting well enough and you built up enough pressure to cut off gas flow.

Unfortunately not, as starting again was the first thing I tried before re-ripping the carb out, and it ran poorly.. wouldn't stay running without the choke, died with any throttle, etc. And the gas cap is vented, bu I'll look and make sure that isn't plugged as well.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2009 18:33

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Well, whatever the issue was with my KLR carb last time seemed to fix itself. As I was prepping to yank the carb again yesterday, I decided to give it a start, just to see what happens (realistically, whats the worst that could have happened? it could have still not run right?), and with the choke on, it start quickly and rev'd up to 3k (which is where it sits when choked out). After a few minutes warming up, i backed off the choke, and the idle settled down to where it should be. Huh.. so I hopped on and went for a ride, still skeptical at this point though, because this is where it all goes wrong, typically.

It was running just a smidge lean (popping on decel lightly, and only under 3k rpm), so I pulled off on the side to adjust my idle mixture screw, and while i sat there fumbling with my would be adjustment tool (a straightened out picture hanger), it started to slowly work down towards stalling again.. so I basically turned the idle screw up a little, which seemed to work, and headed home.

Got home, richened the mixture just a touch, dropped the idle screw down just a bit, and headed back out.. and it ran great.

Man, carbs are made entirely of voodoo and pixie tears.

Could the fact that I was running Sta-bil in the tank (and probably more than was necessary - like 6 gallons worth for 4 gallons or so) have affected the way it behaves at idle? That specific 'dying at idle' problem only occurred after I started running the tank with the Sta-bil in it.

# ¿ Nov 22, 2009 15:36

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

I can't get the plug out of my KLR without a plug wrench. My socket isn't long enough to make it all the way down on the plug to be able to turn it. I just have a 3/8" drive socket set though.

# ¿ Dec 8, 2009 02:02

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

http://www.forvo.com/word/aprilia

There's definitely an L in there. It's not exaggerated, but it's present. "Apree-ya" misses a bunch of the letters in the name.

I think it's kind of a combination of the two, Ah-preel-ya. That's what I say, anyways.

# ¿ Dec 24, 2009 02:13

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

hayden. posted:

Time for the KLR 650 problem of the week:

I took it out for a 10 minute ride today, and at the end the bike wouldn't idle. I could hold the throttle open a fair bit and it'd keep it going. I also couldn't restart it again without going WOT. Limped it back home.

Any idea what to look for? The dash lights and tachometer were going crazy for a bit, but that was fixed from another loose cord, and I don't know if they're related.

Is it possible it's due to too much oil? I may have topped it off a bit high.

Sounds like a problem I had with my KLR, where the carb idle/low speed circuit was clogged. Had it been sitting for a while so the gas might have gone bad?

I had the same issue.. It ran fine under 1/4th and above throttle, anything less and it'd die, which includes when you clutch in at a stoplight. Good times. You'll want to take the carb out and clean it out a bit.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2010 01:16

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

hayden. posted:

Thanks for the help. It had bad gas when I first got it, and though it's fresher now, I guess some of the bad gas gummed up the carb.

Yeah, when my KLR sat for 2 months or so, it did the same thing.. After I successfully cleaned the carb a third time (first two uh.. didn't take) it ran fine.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2010 03:47

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

quoted from two pages ago or so

hayden. posted:

My 1995 KLR 650 was having problems idling. I took the carb out today and sprayed the gently caress out of it with carb cleaner. I spent another hour just getting the loving thing back in.

It idles perfectly!

It dies the second I give it any throttle!

It now has the exact reverse problem as it did before I cleaned it. What should I check for?

edit: it also won't idle without any choke

You're having 'low speed circuit' issues, I think. Once it's warm, if you leave the choke off, and crank it over while simultaneously giving it 50% throttle, and it starts, theres your problem. My issue was (I think) those little pilot jets/holes. There are like 4-6 of them, and I basically had to jab them with a pin. It was a pain. Oh yeah, also, make sure your 'boots' are tightened down, and there isn't any sand/poo poo in between the air filter and the back of the carb.

It honestly took me at least 3 times taking the carb out/cleaning/reinstalling. It ran fine when I put it away, I think. It makes me nervous now to go up and get it out of storage.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2010 00:19

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

hayden. posted:

I've tried sticking wire through all of them though I don't really know what that's supposed to accomplish. The only time I got it through to another hole was when I put it in the center hole and it goes out into the main passageway of the carb.

Z3n posted:

The one you stripped is the pilot jet, which is probably still blocked, and is causing all your issues.

That's not the pilot jet, that's the pilot screw. While it likely needed cleaning, I ALSO couldn't get it out of my own KLR (but I didn't strip it), so I don't know what the loving deal is with that little bitch. Weak brass screw tightened by the hand of god, perhaps?

The holes I'd mentioned before which needed needle poking are the actual pilot jet, which are these little dudebros

Namely, 4 or so holes on the engine-side of the throttle body. They really only get work under very specific conditions, so like you saw, once they get gunked, its hard to get them degunked by just riding it out. I think I'm going to try some seafoam myself once the KLR comes out of hiding for the winter, and I think that would actually get in there a bit.

I have this several page printout from some now-defunkt aol.com member page which had a whole bunch of good info on the CVK40 carb we have. Unfortunately, it's entirely hardcopy, but I can make a photocopy and send it out to you, if you'd like.

Also, if you're not already, since you're in there, I recommend drilling the slide and shimming the main needle jet as discussed here as it does make a pretty good difference for the cost of a 7/64" drill bit (don't use any other size) and a tiny washer.

Additionally discussed on that link to the KLR forums is the proper measurement for the 'Pilot Mixture Screw' which is OUTSIDE the body of the carb, and thusly adjustable while the bike is running, though that's likely not your issue. After I did all my work, my issue became that, if the bike sat for more than say, 30 seconds, it would slowly.. slowly.. slooowwly march toward stalling. I ended up adjusting my idle mixture screw a bit, and kicking up the idle adjuster and throwing it in storage for the winter. Who knows what I'll find when I get it out. :ohdear:

Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Mar 28, 2010

# ¿ Mar 28, 2010 14:41

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Maybe you could sell it back to the guy you bought it from for like 60% of what you got your new one for? If all it needs is a cleaning and some effort to get that screw out of there, it'd probably be a quick profit for him. *shrug*

# ¿ Mar 28, 2010 17:04

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

I'm confused now...what's the point of having a pilot screw if it's just bottomed? That's why I assumed it was the pilot jet, as that's the location for the pilot jet in all CV type carbs I've pulled apart. (admittedly, not that many).

I don't know, to be honest, as I haven't worked on any other carbs besides this one. The idle circuit on this bike is made up of three pieces, the pilot jet, pilot screw, and the pilot mixture screw. I have no idea why it needed to be so complicated, though I think it's a somewhat old carb design, as this carb has basically been on the bike rather unchanged since introduction in 1987.

That being said, the only adjustment one has for the idle circuit is the idle mixture screw, which is outside the carb (as opposed to the jet, which isn't adjustable just being holes and the screw which is bottomed out AND you have to remove the float to get to). Maybe that's it? I *think* i've read that it'll idle better if you shim that pilot screw (assuming you can get it out) just a bit, but I might be wrong. The hole it's in is rather narrow, and the screw itself is wide, so there isn't much room for a washer shim or anything.

# ¿ Mar 28, 2010 19:49

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Can we talk dualsport form? When I'm riding my KLR on dirt roads (usually hardpack), it feels very unnatural to position myself on the inside of of the bike during a turn. What I usually end up doing is basically moving the bike underneath me, especially at 35-40mph+.

Is this okay, or am I endangering myself?

It's also possible I'm running too high PSI in my tires for offroad, what do people typically run for better offroad stability? Additionally, does running the lower offroad PSI compromise on-road handling considerably? While I enjoy riding on dirt, I still have to get there on tarmac.

# ¿ Apr 28, 2010 23:18

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

VTNewb posted:

I don't know poo poo about dual sporting.

I run 12 PSI front and rear on my dirtbikes in a typical situation.

I don't often encounter hardpack flat turns dirtbiking, but on dirt roads I usually am just loving around and sit forward and gas the rear end out around. Actual strategy to turn properly I have no idea.

Yeah, hardpack feels a like a different animal than looser stuff, I think. It's a weird limbo of hardness like tar, but not really having a lot for the knobs to grab, so the few times I've leaned to the inside of the corner, I feel like the bikes going to lowside on me.

It's entirely possible this feeling is just that, a feeling, due to any combination of the following:
a) the bike is tall and heavy
b) mine has raising links so it's extra tall and a 6 or 7 gallon tank so it's extra heavy
c) I'm pretty sure my tires are no where near 12psi
d) the bars are wide, so it may feel like the bike is leaning more than it actually is due to where my hands end up, and the bike is, in general, far from narrow.

# ¿ Apr 29, 2010 00:22

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Armacham posted:

well you should be weighting the outside pegs for one thing, which from your description is what you are already doing. Either way don't be afraid to move around the bike.

I would highly recommend this DVD series for you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYou96EM3uc

http://www.dualsportriding.com/

It wouldn't hurt to drop the tire pressure down to around what the manual recommends for when you leave asphalt, depending on what tires you are running. If they are anything like the stock ones, I'd drop it to around 21psi front and rear. Anything lower than that is going to be pointless on a KLR.

That looks like a useful video, thanks!

Yeah, I'm weighting the outside peg, and it feels much better, but I think the tire pressure is definitely something for me to check into. I don't have the stockers on there, tire-wise, I'm running Kenda K270's, street-legal knobs.

I'm going out for a ride with some guys from ADV on sunday, so I'll see what they recommend.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2010 00:59

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

Also, I'd caution you against the SV650S if you're looking at more upright bikes...the N is nicely upright, the S has higher pegs and clipons rather than handlebars, so the seating position is much, much more aggressive.

I'd also say that the SV's really feel (to me) like they require a lot of attention to ride, because the engine braking is so severe. I know 'lot of attention' is kind of silly when talking about motorcycles, because they all need a lot of attention, but it's just one of those things where you couldn't really relax, and if you're coming from a cruiser, you might miss that.

I know it sounds ridiculous, but if you can find one of the 1200cc Buell's (Lightning, less so the Firebolt), but that's the bike I moved into from my SV. While yes it does have more hp, it has a much less aggressive power delivery, it is more comfortable than my SV was (monnnnnkeybutt) by a longshot, still gets 50+ mpg, and it's been tuned so that the engine braking is much, much more tolerable. It is, however, louder than gently caress, so be sure if you get one, that you get some earplugs.

Also, the insurance for me was fine (less than $250 for a year, full coverage) because it's naked, and doesn't have a 'crotch rocket' image with it (rightly so).

Very fun bike, comfortable, very driveable (tons of torque), good mileage, and plenty quick (103hp).

edit: now that Buell is out of business, I wouldn't be surprised if the resale prices dropped out.

# ¿ Jun 13, 2010 18:07

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Binge posted:

Ok, the Lightning is absolutely beautiful. I want it. Looking on Craigslist, one person has a 2003 for 3800. That's not horrible, and by next season I'm sure there will be more. Man I would love that thing now.

The newer the year, the better the reliability will be. Here's mine, it was a 2006, had it for two years or so and put about 5k miles on it. There's no chain, only a belt, so very little maintenance in that respect (no lubing every 400miles), just basically change the oil and check the tire pressure. I loved it, but I love the bike I traded it for, my Triumph Speed Triple.

# ¿ Jun 13, 2010 21:44

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

2ndclasscitizen posted:

4k kms a year? Ride more.

I'm comfortable with the amount I ride. I don't do track days, I don't ride in the rain because I enjoy it less, and I tend to be busy during the week (plus a 5 mile commute), which leaves me with nice weekends for pleasure riding.

edit: oh yeah, I also have two motorcycles, so I ride more, I just try to split my riding time between my road bike, and my KLR. The mileage stated was for my Buell only.

Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jun 14, 2010

# ¿ Jun 14, 2010 22:39

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

Z3n posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlZ4ONTb9i0

I believe in customizing right out of a catalog
I believe in huge markups on old technology
I believe in the individuality of having the same bike as 200,000 other people
I believe in wearing an aluminum foil "helmet"
I believe in getting a bee in my sleeveless shirt
I believe that I act like a normal human until I have 5 buddies with me
I believe my tribal tat makes me an individual
You better believe I have a magnaflow on my truck
You better believe my trailer cost exceeds my bikes
You better believe I have a loving moustache

# ¿ Jul 25, 2010 20:42

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 09:24

Fantastipotamus: Nov 19, 2002; Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.

The Bramble posted:

Hey guys, new rider, first bike, and some questions. I've had my 03 Honda Shadow Spirit 750 for about 3 months now.

1. I had a hell of a time getting the bike started today after riding for 15 minutes, stopping for lunch for about 20, and trying to start it again after. Choke out, bike in neutral, plenty of gas (and the valve was on, of course). I could hear the starter trying, but it just wouldn't turn the engine. This isn't the first time its happened, though this instance was the longest it took to finally start (3-4 minutes). It always starts right up in the morning.

I quoted this but now I'm confused, the starter was turning the engine, but it wasn't firing up? Or the starter was having trouble turning the engine at all? If the former, it's likely due to you not needing the choke after riding for a bit and warming the engine up. Once it's up to speed, you can start it without the choke. Was the starter not turning the bike over at all?

The Bramble posted:

2. Are the random popping noises coming out of my exhaust (presumably) while I'm compression-braking normal? I usually only hear them at sub-30mph speeds. On the highway I hear a much more normal sound while compression braking, with no pops.

This is a lean condition during deceleration, and is normal, unless it's really loud. If it's really loud, you may need to adjust your carb a bit to richen the mixture a touch.

The Bramble posted:

3. Twice now while downshifting, once from 2 to 1, and once from 3 to 2, I guess the gears didn't engage fully and there was a startling grinding sound. If I remove pressure to the shifter with my foot the noise goes away, and if I then apply a more concentrated and firm pressure it downshifts fine. Is this something serious, or was I just being too gentle with the shifter without realizing it?

Transmissions can do weird things if you're more half-assed about shifting. My old SV650 would occasionally find a 'neutral' in between gears if i was lax with my shifting. It's possible your clutch needs to be adjusted and isn't completely disengaging. The clutch lever should be loose (you should be able to pull it in a half-inch or so before you feel it catch), but if it's too loose, it's possible it's not disengaging all the way even when pulled in to the grip.

The Bramble posted:

I'm really enjoying motorcycling. My confidence levels and skill have improved tremendously since the MSF class and first few weeks of owning the bike in March and April. I started taking it on the highway for the first time to work just this week. I had been really nervous about it, but it wasn't hard at all. I've even passed people! I'm planning on taking my first real long trip next weekend, about 6 hours of riding each way. Anything I should check or do to the bike before then, keeping in mind it was last serviced in April and has about 1000 new miles on it since then?

Before you go, check the tire pressure, lube your chain, check the oil. There may be other things I'm forgetting, but others will supply them.

edit: Sup 'same advice buddy' Ola? :hfive:

Also, why did your license get suspended?

Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jul 25, 2010

# ¿ Jul 25, 2010 20:51

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > Question Thread: Apply throttle directly to forehead