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Thanks! These are OEM grips from 1994. I just happen to have the bike apart and figured if I'm going to ether fix (or delete) them then this is as good a time as any since the cable actually feeds through the handlebar. I'm still trying to figure out what the mechanism is where they run 50% but I suspect it's nothing as smart as pulsing, maybe just running the 12v through a bleed resistor or something. I honestly don't remember if they work or not, but given the state of some of the wiring on the bike I'm not really taking much on faith. If they don't work at the element side I'm certainly not going to pay OEM prices to replace them, so I'll either try one of the aftermarket 12v grip elements and see if I can snake those cables through the same route, or just delete them entirely since this is more of a warm weather bike for me. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Feb 1, 2024 |
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Feb 1, 2024 14:52
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Yeah absolutely, and that's the other option. I just figured it would be easy to see if 12v = warm vs checking resistance while it's off the bike. I'm kind of out of my element when it comes to electricity beyond things like "i measured a voltage and number ~= number" and "it has continuity" so the "reasonable resistance" thing is something I don't have a good intuition for. That's really the only reason I had floated the practical check first 
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Feb 1, 2024 15:43
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Much more effort explaining this than I deserve -- thank you! I learned a lot! And I ohmed it out to determine a good working grip. Will check the second tomorrow. Appreciate it!
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Feb 2, 2024 01:41
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Remy Marathe posted:My favorite is when I honk at someone in front of me, only to realize they're waiting for a pedestrian. You'd think I'd learn. "n-no no, that's my 'good job thanks for waiting' honk!"
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Feb 2, 2024 03:23
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Help me decipher something, gang. I'm trying to remove this nut:  The service manual suggests a tool, but the tool is easily replicated with a spark plug socket and a long 6mm allen bit.  I'm interpreting the instructions as "hold the outer socket in place with a wrench and use the inner allen bit to unscrew the "post". Does this sound right? The nut is obviously very seized so while I've been dousing it with pb blaster and heat it hasn't done much moving and I'm at the point where I'm starting to second guess whether I'm supposed to actually hold the inner shaft in place and unscrew the outer. Even though that's not what the directions seem to say. I'm calling it a night. Got so much done on the bike that I'm happy calling it for today, and the rest of my cables should be here early next week so I'm good to start wrapping it back up.
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Feb 3, 2024 04:39
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Ok that makes sense. I think blindly interpreting this without a little critical thought is on me because now that you said that it seems incredibly obvious. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. e: Yeah, looking at reference photos of the actual ball joint underneath I think you're 100% right. Not my proudest moment, but I'm really glad I decided to ask rather than just like.. trying to turn it harder. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Feb 3, 2024 |
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Feb 3, 2024 04:49
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Yeah, I'll give an impact a try as well, if for no reason than to see if I can break some of the rust fusing.
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Feb 3, 2024 05:55
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Impact was really useful when I was monkeying with the wheels on the DRZ. Till then I think most things were fairly light, even on that crusty bike. On this one I’ve been really lucky that I haven’t had the need to pull it out till now. But I also haven’t done the final drive stuff so I bet I’ll find those bolts stubborn as well. I’m trying to guess why that middle alan collar is there at all at this point, and I have to assume that it’s to give you some leverage when you’re torquing down the nut? 
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Feb 3, 2024 16:46
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In the end I had to use the equivalent of two breaker bars. A long pipe over the handle of the ratchet holding the middle allen bit, and another on the outer.Replacement done, but I’m ready to just start buttoningt he bike back together now. I think I’m over my “winter project” phase and ready to not think about this until it’s spring.
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Feb 3, 2024 23:35
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Need to replace a cracking fuel line. Is Tygon F-4040-A a legit replacement? The only real specs I'm aware of are 1/4 ID x 3/8 OD and fuel-capable.
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Feb 12, 2024 00:19
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Well that doesn’t SOUND like a good idea, but who am I to argue?Beve Stuscemi posted:I don’t know what that specific model number is, but Tygon is probably the biggest name in fuel line. As long as you size it right it should be fine. Thanks!
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Feb 12, 2024 04:58
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epswing posted:Same, a Battery Tender Jr has carried my bikes through many Canadian winters. I cheaped out my first year and bought some DeWalt knockoff and it died halfway through the winter. Replaced with one of the small Optimates and it’s been bulletproof. I have a Tender Jr for the other bike and I think either is a good choice for longevity, anecdotally speaking.
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Feb 13, 2024 13:50
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Thoughts on Metzeler Roadtec Z8 Interact or a good alternative? I need to fit 120/70-17 front and 160/60-18 rear but honestly I don't keep up with tires enough to know good from meh from bad. Open to good alternatives. I'd love to not break the bank but obviously these are what are keeping me glued to the road so I'm not going to sort by lowest price and just mash the BUY button.
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Mar 7, 2024 12:52
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My last private sale bike was Marketplace for sure. Anecdotally, Kijiji around my area is a lot of Marketplace crossposts so Marketplace is my go-to now, but I still check both when I'm looking for something. Craigs definitely donezo around here.
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Mar 15, 2024 22:35
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There's a few spots of rust I'm finding on my frames here and there as I do various things on various bikes. Where I can, I've been taking a scouring pad as best I can and dabbing on some krylon with a brush. Some of the rust I can see under plastic and behind wiring where I would need to actually do a fair amount of work to strip the bike to resolve. Is there anything I can spray on or apply to just .. i don't know .. neutralize? ... treat? ... the small rust spots to at least inhibit them I mean the other option is "ignore it and do nothing" which is effectively what I've been doing for now, but it's kind of nagging at me. I don't think they're critical or anything, it's just paint that flecked away and the underlying steel is rusting like steel does. I always just hate seeing it on an otherwise nice looking bike. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Mar 21, 2024 |
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Mar 21, 2024 14:52
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OK killer, so the gameplan can just be to get it in some spray and kind of burp it in the inaccessible spots and call it a day?
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Mar 21, 2024 18:26
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I think that works too. Nothing is so inaccessible that I can't really reach in there, I just can't (ahem .. don't want to) tear out wiring harnesses or plastics on working bikes to actually scour to metal, and wasn't sure about just painting actual krylon over untreated rust. Thanks!
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Mar 21, 2024 18:39
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I have a GoPro mounted to my helmet. The real question to ask is whether I know where my battery is, or whether it works 
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Apr 7, 2024 19:44
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I think the OE petcock was vacuum operated and could be prone to failure which could lead to a sump full of fuel. My arcebis tank came with a manual petcock but I probably would have opted for one even if it hadn't, just to know the fuel isn't going to dribble out in a worst case scenario. My DRZ and steel tank is 2001 vintage, so I was probably more inclined to believe it would fail sooner rather than later, as opposed to a newer bike I suppose. Of course on more than one occasion I've taken off only to make it halfway down the street and when the bike suddenly sputters and dies before I remember I shut it off 
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May 2, 2024 11:52
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I’d agree. If your target tank is plastic then there’s also the argument that if you weaken the screw threads in the plastic you may start to compromise the only thing keeping the petcock seal tight to the tank. Plus manual petcocks are generally cheap. I tend to overthink things a lot and I came to the realization that whatever I value your time at, monetarily, I almost guarantee I’ll have spent more money thinking about it than the part and installation time would cost out at
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May 2, 2024 14:16
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Looking to pull my wheels and update the TPM sensors in the next month or so. I've never done a lick of work with tires before, always opting to hand them off to a shop. All the tools to do this work are foreign to me so I've got a few basic questions. I don't think I need anything fancy, I also don't think I need to pull the tire entirely just to change the sensor at the valve stem, so I *think* I should be fine with just a pair of tire irons and maybe rim protectors to keep from scratching the aluminum. I have no idea what to look for in qualities on either, so I don't know if I'm buying something useful or something cheap and useless that will make the job more difficult. Any suggestions on what I look for in a tire iron that makes it more useful than just a flat piece of metal to wedge up rubber? If you guys have good brand suggestions i'm all ears, but I'd love to know why they're good in the spirit of "teach a man to fish". Do I need a separate bead breaker? If so, same question.
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May 16, 2024 15:12
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