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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Just don’t try to wheelie there But I bought the GoPro and everything  Razzled posted:i dont know what those numbers mean but i've ridden to the gas station on 10 psi and as long as you dont try to rip a wheelie your valve stem will probably be ok (tubed tire) So noted!
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Mar 25, 2020 21:32
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So actually additional question then. I’m presuming that the swingarm sticker is for the OEM tires. Would those numbers differ with non-OEM fitted tires? I don’t mean different width, just makes. My gut instinct is that it’s a “it’ll be close enough so just use the sticker value” thing. My 650 has OEM tires but my 250 hasn’t had anything OEM in quite a few owners I imagine. PO had a 150 or 160 on the rear which I swapped back to an OEM-sized but not OEM-make 130.
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Mar 25, 2020 22:36
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I have a good bike pump, I just remembered, but I converted the end to a quick-connector/disconnector for my road bike and I can’t remember if it’s presta only or not. I’ll have to see if it’ll still do scrader valves.
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Mar 26, 2020 00:06
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MomJeans420 posted:A lot of bikes really benefit from a tail tidy though, I don't count that as an unnecessary modification. I did a tail tidy on my bike and it looks hella cute but my black jacket always has a skunk stripe of dirt/mud after rain now 
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Apr 13, 2020 14:04
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When removing and reinstalling an exhaust header, is greasing the exhaust gaskets just done to hold them in place, or is there some other reason I'm not thinking about?
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Apr 20, 2020 19:55
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Makes sense, thanks.
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Apr 20, 2020 21:28
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Follow them because doing so will retain your warranty. Serious question, is there any data logging in modern bikes? If I didn't volunteer the information, if my engine exploded, how would the dealer know I revved to redline for an hour on the hwy home in 2nd vs putted home at 20kph in 6th gear at 1500rpm in a bicycle lane? I'm joking in the example, but I routinely rev to 8-9 before shifting. Before I rode it off the lot, the mechanic at the dealership told me to ride normally and just avoid revving over the limit for sustained periods. I guess by the letter of the law I've long since voided my warranty but I'm not sure how Kawasaki would ever know in case something ever went wrong. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 13:53
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:See? Dammit you made me engage with a break in discussion. More! More chaos 
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Apr 21, 2020 15:38
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You can get TPMS sensors that take place of the valve caps which require none of that AFAIK, but I’ve yet to see a positive review of anything that cheap — always seem a few PSI off, up to like 10 in some bad cases.
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May 1, 2020 23:41
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Do you have a photo? Genuinely curious as I can’t see it in my mind’s eye.
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May 3, 2020 22:06
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I’m going off the board with the only thing I learned from Star Wars. Close your eyes and reach out with your feelings to make the turn.
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May 10, 2020 22:43
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If it were possible to bolt the lift to the ground (and I pray that the work surface itself is somehow bolted to the lift) then I would probably be more comfortable with what I see 
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May 19, 2020 16:58
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Sagebrush posted:Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed. I’m seeing one big steampunk bike in my mind’s eye And it’s not good
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May 22, 2020 02:25
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If I don't plan to use my Ninja 250 in the next few months, what would be the proper way to drain the fuel? I'm thinking I shut off the petcock, unclip the fuel line from petcock, attach an aux line instead then let that drain into a jerry can Run the bike until it dies of starvation Drain the floats by opening the drain valve Call it a day Am I way off base?
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May 22, 2020 21:46
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I think I have a prime setting so I’ll run that, thanks. The fuel was stabilized way back when but I guess if I won’t be running it there’s no point in keeping it in there.
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May 22, 2020 22:14
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OK so like in all seriousness I don’t see myself touching the bike in 2020 so Drain bowls yes Drain tank no I can live with that. I will probably pull it out if I decide to do baby’s first track day next year, or end up selling it. Even then, new gas is cheap so as long as it doesn’t separate and rust my tank I guess I’m fine if I have to drain it next year. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:06 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 02:04
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This is a great idea. I just started a OneNote notebook for my bikes.
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May 27, 2020 15:08
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Above advice aside, I’m taking my 650 in for its initial 1k next Thursday. Not for fear that I can’t do the work myself, but I’m going to use the opportunity to have them torque all the bolts on the exhaust properly with the right tools (my torque wrench didn’t fit up into a few areas so I had to guten tight a few bolts), and honestly just to give it a once over. After that I don’t think I’ll be taking it into a dealer again unless it needs major work I’m not prepared to do. I am having them put in the EZ-Drain valve instead of putting the OEM drain plug again so future oil changes will be even less messy, ideally.. At least not until I have to pop the filter. My biggest failure with self-servicing the 250 was my inability to get a good alignment on the rear tire after adjusting chain slack. I think I ultimately spent a few hours going back and forth tightening, re-tightening, adjusting, re-adjusting. I don’t know what’s “good enough” and what’s “critical” when it comes to rear alignment, but given that it’s one of two wheels keeping me from being a meat crayon I was very anxious about getting it right. When it comes to the 650, I might be gunshy about servicing the drivetrain until I get a good feeling on what tolerances are okay.
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May 27, 2020 18:41
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Thanks. In my case I think I was also having some trouble keeping the wheel parallel with the line of the bike. Once I tightened the nut on one side it would go askew just slightly, giving me cause to start micro-adjusting again. But this is all for lack of practice. It’s just a catch 22 that I have to break — scared of wheel alignment because no experience, no experience because afraid to touch wheel. Once I do it a few more times I’m sure the nagging doubt will disappear, as with everything I’ve done on my bikes so far.
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May 27, 2020 18:53
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Oh, well I already did that myself probably so 
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May 27, 2020 20:35
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I gather it’s unlikely, but does anyone know where the KWP2000 port on a modern Ninja 650 might be? I’m interested in trying to sniff the protocol but unless I missed it, even the shop manual I have doesn’t go over where I can find this port. I can’t tell whether it is something that should be standalone or connect to the ECU or what.
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May 29, 2020 19:55
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's a 4 pin weatherproof connector, should be under the seat right next to the battery. Delivers in record time. Will look for it there after work, thanks!
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May 29, 2020 20:19
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I had my first taste of ABS two weeks ago when someone yoinked out into a downtown crosswalk against their light as I was approaching. Super glad I had it, but the sensation was really weird. I wonder if I would have slid out on my 250.
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May 29, 2020 23:54
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Followup question about my Ninja 250 long term storage. My petcock doesn’t have an “off” position, only on and prime. If I just shut the bike down, fill the tank, and drain the carbs, will the carbs re-fill only once the engine turns on and produces enough vacuum to assist? Or do I need to physically clamp the hose line to prevent additional fuel from making it to the carbs.
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May 30, 2020 23:33
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So I literally do nothing, just avoid turning on the bike after I drain the bowls? Thanks, I’ll dry ‘er out tomorrow then.
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May 30, 2020 23:36
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I have a dumb question about the clutch. With the clutch pulled in, is there ANY friction between the plates, no matter how inconsequential? I’m trying to figure out why, with the clutch pulled in all the way, when I shift out of neutral into first I feel the bike clunk forward an imperceptible amount for a split second. Just trying to figure out what is imparting rotation onto what to make the engine or bike twitch like that.
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Jun 2, 2020 23:24
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Slavvy posted:When you pull the clutch in you separate the plates by like a millimeter each, they are covered in thick sticky engine oil that easily fills the gap and create a sort of viscous coupling. And even on dry clutch bikes the drag from the plates rubbing past one another is perceptible. So when you clunk into first, the drag is enough to impart some small amount of torque onto the whole driveline (so the gearbox shafts, chain/shaft final drive and the cush drive in the back wheel), which is immediately stopped at the back wheel because moving the entire bike takes a lot more than that even if you aren't on the brakes. RadioPassive posted:Yes, when you pull the clutch lever, you relieve the spring tension holding the clutch plates together, but nothing positively forces them apart, so they slide across each other with very little - but not zero - friction/force transfer. Makes perfect sense, thank you!
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Jun 3, 2020 01:49
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Jun 4, 2020 00:59
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Bits of my brain keep trying to pick out problems with this and are being angrily shouted down by the rest of it, and several other organs. "Don't slip on the billiard balls" is all I can come up with
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Jun 4, 2020 01:10
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Has anyone had any experience re-covering a bike seat? Is it a tremendous pain in the rear end that I should just hand off to someone else to do? My N650 seat is super slippery and I'm toying with the idea of buying a luismoto re-cover and the gel insert to throw on instead but somehow I imagine this is going to be much more fiddly than working on bike mechanics. I probably won't bother until I find a reasonably priced parted out OEM seat on eBay.
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Jun 5, 2020 16:38
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Hmm interesting. I'm definitely interested in doing the thing now, but will probably still wait until I can find an OEM swap-in just so I can have a seat in case I royally bone it up. Thanks for humoring me.
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Jun 5, 2020 17:53
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OK I bought some of that seat gel from AliExpress and I’ll try to DIY on my own seat after watching a few YouTubes. poo poo is like $200 on eBay but $20 on AliExpress v v — was surprised there were no Chinese sellers on the ‘Bay. This won’t help with any actual slipperiness, but the stock seat is kind of hard anyway so I’ll replace that and if I still have a bug up my butt to change the seat cover in a few months I’ll buy the luimoto cover I’ve been eyeing. Slavvy posted:I don't know but where did your AV come from? I needed to replace my Disney furry cop movie avatar so my ACAB posts wouldn’t come across quite so tone deaf. I just googled “vaporwave bike” and stole the first thing that caught my eye. Here’s the original. I roughly translate it as wet road blues but my japanese is v. bad.  I think it’s courtesy of this dude https://twitter.com/MrValenberg some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jun 5, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 22:01
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My Ninja 250 was 50% self-sealing tape, by weight when I bought it. Including a particularly large section of what was once rear brake line cladding. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 23:47
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Is asking about motorcycle oil brands going to start a holy war I’m just stocking up the garage shelf while I have it forefront in my head. Have a two pack of FRAM filters in my Amazon basket and probably just going to get a jug of Motul 5100 unless the thread waves me off for some reason.
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Jun 6, 2020 20:21
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MomJeans420 posted:Does that actually hold up for brake lines? Seems like a really bad idea... Brake lines were literally the first thing I replaced once I noticed. Someone new to motorcycles shopping for used bikes with no one to assist can lead to ... unwelcome discoveries after the fact.
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Jun 7, 2020 12:17
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No complaints on my Ninja 650. I put an aftermarket double bubble on there but more for the darker aesthetics than for need of actual wind protection. I won’t say it hasn’t helped a little, but the stock windscreen seemed fine IMO. I ran the double-bubble at medium height for a while before moving it back down to “sporty” mode. The more vertical you put the windscreen the goofier it looks on a Ninja, and the protection wasn’t significantly better. E: Assuming the tire doesn’t catastrophically shred, what is the sensation of developing a flat tire on your ride? What do you feel/how does it present? some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 21:20
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I’m puckering so hard watching that video that I’m not so slowly turning inside out.
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Jun 21, 2020 17:59
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I literally didn’t know that my torque wrench clicked when I first started working on my bike a year ago. I thought they were suppose to slip like the smaller bicycle and firearms torque screwdrivers I’d used before. It wasn’t until I was like “umm I’m pretty sure this is way too snug” that I realized the mistake. Subsequently, I’m pretty sure my Ninja 250 oil drain bolt is torqued twice as tight as it should be and may or may not come out with an abundance of metal next time I pull it. Fully prepared to have to helicoil it which will probably be a hoot in and of itself.
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Jun 27, 2020 23:31
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Sagebrush posted:if you watch the next video in the series (don't) he drills a hole in the gas tank to get the gasoline out lol How can I not, now that you said this
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Jun 27, 2020 23:51
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 00:43 |
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I watched his Panigale rebuild series. Spoiler alert, they forget to torque down the brake rotors for their “shakedown” ride with predictable results.
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Jun 28, 2020 04:26
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