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Ostiosis posted:I recently changes the fork seals on my 1981 Honda CB650 and when I was looking in my Haynes manual I thought it said to torque the axle holder nuts to 40 - 47 ft lbs. It is supposed to be 13 - 18 ft lbs. according to the online shop manual. I just stripped out the nut on the lower part of the stud, the fork slider appears to be fine. The studs are really soft aren't they? I've had all of the threads come off of them from a slightly cruddy nut before. It would probably be fine to use the cutoff bolt as a stud. Screw the clean part of the stud into the fork tube and only tighten until it bottoms out. The aluminum is much softer than a grade 8 stud so be careful.
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Oct 6, 2008 23:41
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:18 |
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How do you guys clean your motorcycle gear? My Joe Rocket jacket is about three years old now and kinda smells like it's been ridden by a sweaty motorcyclist for three years without being washed. I read the little label and it says, "No dry cleaning, no machine wash, don't soak in water.". How am I supposed to clean the drat thing? I can't imagine rubbing it with a damp cloth is going to do much more than make it smell worse.
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Oct 12, 2008 03:27
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Z3n posted:Leather cleaner and conditioner. I should have mentioned it's textile with suede or something shoulder and elbow patches. I'm mostly concerned with the inside though. I've kept up on bug removal on the outside so it still looks presentable.
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Oct 12, 2008 04:30
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Handiklap posted:I've got an '08 rebel that I commute on, and recently after getting home (maybe 15 minutes of 65mph), I'll shut of the engine and it'll sit for about 1 or 2 seconds and then I'll hear an audible thud. The best I can describe it as is if you're at home, and someone drops something decently heavy on the floor in a room above you. The thud could be things contracting as they cool down. I'm sure you've heard heat shields and stuff tick before. It might just be a louder version of that. The high speed plugs should be fine for riding everywhere as long as they aren't fouling out. If they look fine then they are fine. If they start to soot up or the bike starts to crap out when you are just cruising you may need to put the old heat range plugs back in.
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Oct 25, 2008 02:55
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philkop posted:Any advice on kick starting old bikes in the cold? Iv tried the conventional,(ie choke, turning engine over slowly a few times ect.) but I think its time to move onto more drastic measures. Before I go rig up some crazy contraption and blow the place up does anyone know if heating the engine up from the outside will work? Maybe a lighter under my engine, or a blow dryer to warm it up? I don't think its my points, because just yesterday when it was warmer i could start it in under 20 tries. I would agree with Neroboro and say you should probably look at cleaning the pilot jets in your carbs. If it's all set up right (jets clean, carbs synced, idle screws set) it really shouldn't take more than a few kicks. My routine with the 350F this spring (the bike lived in an unheated garage in NEPA) was fuel on, choke on, two kicks. Turn electrics on and one or two more kicks had it going.
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Oct 29, 2008 02:28
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philkop posted:Ok so I have a service manual. Id rather not mess it up any further so can anyone help me make sense of this. I know where my jets are now, do the numbers have anything to do with how tight or loose they should be? Those numbers in the service manual page are mostly specs. The jet size and such along with float level. Did you clean the holes in the jets when you took them out? You might have needed something more than carb cleaner if they are clogged. You should be able to see through them if they are clear. Did you check float level? You don't need to screw the jets in really tight at all. Just a tiny bit of a snug after they make contact with the carb body. Before you do anything else, you really do need to find out why your horn isn't working. If you blew a fuse somehow or disconnected a power wire it could possibly go to things like your ignition system, in which case you are never going to get it started. Just remember not to get frustrated with it. All of us have been through the nightmare that is your first carb cleaning. It only gets easier the more you do it.
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Oct 31, 2008 01:17
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Hibajubwa posted:I have a 2006 Suzuki GS500 that I daily drive about 40 miles each way, 35 or so of which is on the freeway. Within the last 2 weeks or so it has started giving me this somewhat strange issue. Try opening your gas cap when it quits. It sounds like you might have a blocked tank vent. If the vent is blocked the tank will start to have vacuum in it as you ride. After a while the carbs will stop getting fuel. When you sit for a while the pressure equalizes and you can go again for a while. If the gas cap thing works, you need to find out where the vent lines are and make sure they are not pinched or filled with a spider web or something.
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Nov 1, 2008 20:02
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greg_graffin posted:My bike has been squeaking/squealing terribly the past week or so. It only does it when the wheels are turning so I'm thinking it's either the wheel bearings or something with the brakes. I know squeaky brakes are a common thing, but this sound occurs whether I'm braking, accelerating, or coasting. How dry is your chain? A really dry chain will sound like a big box of mice squeaking when you are rolling at slow speeds. I'd imagine it still makes noise when you are going faster but the wind and engine noise drown it out. A really dry/stuck chain would account for the drag as well.
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Nov 7, 2008 00:11
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Location has as much or more to do with rates that driving records it seems like. In NEPA I paid $75 a year on my 350F. My friend with a two year old Z1000? $75 a year. In San Diego the best I could do was $400 a year through State Farm for my GS. Same driving record, no new tickets or anything.
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Nov 8, 2008 20:03
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What kind of issues (if any) would I run into by running a rear shock upside down? I've done some research into what shock I can use to replace my 23 year old original on the GS and found that the Yamaha R1 is the closest match. Both mounting points are eyelets, not eyelet and fork like every other bike seems to use, and is 13 inches in length eyelet to eyelet like the original. Added benefits: it's rebound and compression adjustable. Added added benefits: it may actually do something other than being a holder for a spring like the one that's on there now. I have been looking at my bike and the R1 that parks next to me and it looks like it will fit no problem besides needing to be upside down. Is this a problem?
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Nov 10, 2008 21:32
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Choke stuff Every bike seems to have it's own starting pattern. Some need bunches of choke to run for the first few minutes, some don't. If you can get it running on the choke and then idling right away you are in good shape. The idle screws might be set a tad rich as you usually need some choke when cold but I would leave it be if it runs good at all other times and the plugs look nice.
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Nov 11, 2008 19:53
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Kaptainballistik posted:Ok, Im up to rebuilding the Carby on the AT-1 Yamaha. I would try to soak it with some penetrating oil before beating on it. If you take a pipe wrench to it the threads are going to gall up and you will be left with a cruddy paperweight. Spray it, let it sit a few days, spray it again and tap it with a brass hammer around the cap. Then try to unscrew it. Hopefully it will come off happily. If that doesn't work, try the process again maybe with some heat on the cap this time. If that doesn't work, I usually throw them onto the shop floor a few times in anger and then go on ebay to find a good one.
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Nov 12, 2008 03:53
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100 Years in Iraq posted:
That's my first reaction when I do anything stupid. Well, that is if nothings on fire and I don't need to be rushed to the hospital.
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Nov 12, 2008 19:17
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If the stabilizer made it to the carbs you should be ok. It's always a good idea to empty the bowls though. That way you know you aren't going to have four pools of varnish to deal with in the spring. I would also shove something in the tail pipes and the airbox intake so mice don't make a nice home over the winter.
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Nov 26, 2008 05:15
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They just had a writeup on this in this months Motorcyclist. They said it was just as Neroboro described. It got a 1 star rating and they took it back out. Tons of light, just scattered from the road all the way to the trees.
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Nov 26, 2008 07:47
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Mechanism Eight posted:After sitting for a week my bike's battery was too weak to power the starter. I live on a hill so no big deal but I've got a question about charging. Most bikes make good charging voltage at around 3k or so and above. It will probably take a while to get a good charge into it by riding through town, but a nice highway run should get it ok. I would suggest keeping it on a tender if you aren't going to keep the bike in constant use. Running the battery down isn't the best thing for it.
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Dec 7, 2008 06:20
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AhhYes posted:Now that this isn't the "stupid" questions thread, I'm mildly concerned about asking this... I doubt the top of the bag sticking out into the wind would make much, if any, difference. I would be more worried about landing on it in a crash. That couldn't be comfortable. Plus, a low speed flop might end up costing you a bunch more money if you smash your guitar with your rear end on the way down. That said, I have ridden with mine quite a few times. I bungeed the body to the tail of the bike and had the neck sticking out like an expensive poker. Never had a problem.
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Dec 9, 2008 01:23
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How can I tell what type of brake fluid I have in my bike? I generally replace all of the fluids when I get a new bike but am cautious about the GS. Going by what the rest of everything looked like, and backed up by the really stuck screws on the lid of the MC, the bike hasn't been serviced in forever yet the brake fluid is clear/very light amber. In most older bikes I've worked on it's a disgusting milkshake looking mess that is easy to see as contaminated DOT 3 or 4. I don't want to go putting 3 or 4 in there if it's got silicone in it.
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Dec 17, 2008 04:18
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rope kid posted:Is there a name for the things that are... well, they're sort of like gas I.V.s for running carbed bikes with the fuel tank off. It's just an elevated container of gasoline with x lines running to the carbs. I know I've seen them before, but I can't find them now. I use a gas tank off of an old snowmobile I bought from a yard sale. It looks like a slightly overgrown soup can with a gas cap on top and a nipple on the bottom. I just bungee it to something higher than the carbs. It works great and only cost $3.
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Dec 18, 2008 02:04
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Skier posted:
I think both of these points are very valid. Back when the Hurt report was put together, most bikes had headlights about as effective as a flashlight with almost dead batteries. They also had an off position unlike bikes today. I would venture a guess that the people who ran around with their high beams on also wore some gear and were more safety conscious than most. It does bother me when someone has their brights on during the day. Sometimes they catch you just right and dazzle the poo poo out of you.
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Jan 8, 2009 22:04
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OrangeFurious posted:How hard is it to get a small dent out of a tank? We're talking about something the size of a human thumb and not particularly deep. It's on the curve from the side to the top of the tank. If the paint is fine you might want to get a PDR guy to get it out for you. If you are planning on painting it, you can maybe push it out from the inside and smooth it will filler.
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Jan 9, 2009 00:35
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That sucks that the guy sold it out from under you, but what everyone is saying is very true. If you are serious about buying something, find a way to be there with cash in hand right now. As a seller I have waited weekends away for some jackass who "definitely wanted the bike/car, I'm on my way now!". As a buyer I have gotten great deals by totally disenfranchised sellers who heard the same thing over and over with no one ever showing. It's just hard to turn away a buyer in front of you making a reasonable offer with cash in hand regardless of what anyone else is saying.
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Jan 9, 2009 22:39
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An F150 should be able to haul that no problem. I have had countless bikes in the back of my Ranger. If the beds too short just leave the gate open. Remember not to crank the front forks down to the stops with ratchet straps. That's a good way to gently caress up your fork seals. It should be snug, but still have suspension travel left.
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Jan 10, 2009 01:28
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It does sound like you keep cleaning the carb all nice just to have crud from the tank clog it back up. Run a clear inline filter and see what kind of crap is getting trapped. If you can see chunks, it's time to take the tank off and clean it out.
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Jan 14, 2009 00:44
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The thing about an old supersport is just trying to find one that hasn't been crashed 500 times. Pretty much any of them in nice shape stand out because they are so different looking compared to what's out now. I'd read up on what was out there at the time that interests you. Learn the faults of each and when one pops up on Craigslist or something have an informed look. They usually don't go for all that much money except for the aircooled GSXRs. They have a following and seem to fetch a bit of a premium. Personally, I would love to have an '80s 600 Hurricane, GSXR750, and Ninja of some sort in the collection.
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Jan 18, 2009 06:43
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You need to make sure your soldering tip is nice and clean to start out with. Fold up a paper towel and wet it. Rub the tip on it when it gets hot to get all of the crud that may have accumulated on it. Now, melt some solder on the tip. Give it a good coating to where it looks shiny. Now, you should be able to touch the tip to the wires and have solder flow. When heating the wires hold the tip under the joint (making contact). Touch the solder to the strands a bit above the tip to get the melting started. Once it has, put the solder opposite to where the tip is and it should start to flow nicely. Once you have an acceptable joint, remove the tip and solder but keep the wires still for a few more seconds while the solder cools. If it ends up looking all nice and shiny, you did a good job. If it's dull grey then it's a cold joint and will need to be done again.
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Feb 17, 2009 02:47
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God-damned Pilates posted:Question, as the idea intrigues me: I know for a fact that the SOHC 650 motor will fit into a 500 or 550 frame no problem. You just have a different looking head and lose the kickstart. The 750s I'm not too sure about. I think you are right about the '79. I thought they had gone DOHC at that point. Neroboro is right though. Honda really likes to make similar models have very dissimilar parts. Even between the F and K models of the 750 you have different tanks, seats, sidecovers, and corresponding mounting points on the frames being different as well. The 650 frame looks similar to the 750s, but from reading it seems that it's a ton of work to get the engine to fit (if at all possible). From experience, the 750 engine barely fits in it's own frame. I used to be really into Hondas until I started playing with Suzukis (Neroboro also gets a lot of the credit for this). The 'zukes really are like legos. Much easier to build what you want out of different bikes.
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Feb 17, 2009 06:43
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Zenaida posted:I thought you weren't supposed to solder connections on a bike because vibration makes the joints break? You're supposed to use crimped-on connectors instead? Solder with heatshrink looks really clean but the FAA says that crimps are the way to go on planes. Personally I've never seen either fail in an automotive application if done right. If you have a good solder joint/use good crimps and crimpers, you should be safe.
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Feb 17, 2009 16:25
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There were basically three SOHC engines. The 350F. This turned into the 400F by being bored out. It also had a completely redesigned head and a sixth gear. The 500F. This was redesigned into the 550F. It was also done with a bore job. Most everything else is the same though. I do know they changed the gear ratios in the trans to slow down the primary chain as they were wearing out in the 500s. Then it was made into the 650F. This bottom end is similar to the 550 with the deletion of the kick start and a change in the shaft driving the timing componants as it picked up electronic ignition at this time. The head was also redesigned as well as the timing chain guides and tensioners. The 650 also had a funny looking valve cover that doesn't look much like the rest of the SOHC motors. The 750. This is the only dry sump engine out of the three. This is also the engine I know the least about. I am pretty sure they are mostly forward and backward compatible. EDIT: Just to add, this is just what I remember off the top of my head. I'm sure there are more things changed between them than I listed. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Feb 17, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 22:30
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Nerobro posted:Finally: This is 100% the truth. Ride like you are the only thinking being on the road. Everything else on the road is just random debris careening along at speed. This debris may or may not cross your path. It's up to you to make sure you are ready if it does.
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Feb 20, 2009 05:16
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I used to use the kill all of the time on my old Hondas since the ignition was under the tank and it was much easier to shut them off that way. All of my bikes that have had a key up top I use either or. I would go with whatever you are comfortable with. I'm sure your not going to wear out the switch by using it. Just don't forget your keys in the ignition (I do this at least 50% of the time).
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Feb 20, 2009 05:33
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Nerobro posted:The kill switch shorts out the coils. So yes, it could potentially hurt your points, condensor, or CDI unit. The power for the coils on my Hondas went from battery->fuse box->ignition switch->kill switch->coil. In that case it was just the same as turning the ignition off. My Vespa did short the coil to ground. I'm guessing the GS is the same way? I'm going to stop using the kill at all in that case.
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Feb 20, 2009 22:21
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Are GSXs known to be clunky going into first gear? My 700 gives a good clunk/jump when put into first. Much more than other bikes I've owned. It gets quite a bit better when it warms up but it never gets really good. It's adjusted properly and shifting into other gears is totally fine and smooth. Also, there is no shudder when letting the clutch out from a stop which would indicate warped plates.
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Feb 26, 2009 02:43
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MrZig posted:So even without a filter in the tank, you're saying I shouldn't run an inline filter? Every time I've ever tried to use an inline filter I ended up "running out of gas" even though the tank was over 1/4 full. Gravity doesn't seem to be enough to push that last gallon or so through a filter.
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Feb 27, 2009 06:14
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Most of the ones you see in the lawnmower section are usually just a fine screen not a paper filter. I bet that would work fine. Just be watchful once you get around the reserve level of fuel. Mine, which still has an inline filter installed because I have been too lazy to remove it, died during rush hour on an onramp for the 8 the other day. That was a blast.
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Feb 27, 2009 06:26
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Watommi posted:I'm doing my first oil change on my 1990 Yamaha Radian. I'm following the instructions in the Clymers manual, but I seem to be missing some pieces. Sounds like someone lost your spring and washer. I've almost thrown those washers out a million times. They get stuck to the filter and end up in the trash. The springs would probably be harder to misplace, but I'm sure where there's a will... I think you would be ok running without them for a bit. The spring just holds the filter forward so it sits on that tube in the proper place. There's not a whole lot trying to move the filter so it will probably stay there anyway. Just put it back together the way it is and order them between now and your next oil change.
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Feb 28, 2009 05:38
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`Nemesis posted:Kerosene will also probably work, however it's much more dangerous as the rags you used will be extremely flammable afterward and cannot be washed in your home washing machine. Really the only safe thing to do with them is burn them. Don't ever wash anything that's been near kerosene in your laundry if you don't want everything you wash afterward to smell like it forever. I got a splash of kero on the finger of the GFs glove when I was filling the shop heater up last year and then tried to wash it. Remember, this was only a drop or two. The washing machine never, ever, ever stopped stinking of kero. It made me really glad it was a rental and that I was moving out shortly.
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Mar 5, 2009 02:36
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I've had really good luck with 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive. It's basically super strong contact cement. That and some of those big metal paper clip things to hold it in place while it dries.
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Mar 12, 2009 15:27
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Yeah, besides getting yelled at by those of us who have tried it already, you will probably 'run out of gas' a lot sooner with an inline filter installed as there is not enough pressure at low tank levels to push it through the tank strainer, the inline filter and then the tiny filters at the jets. It's really annoying, embarrassing and potentially dangerous (ask me how I know).
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Mar 17, 2009 15:34
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:18 |
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Back in the day they used to use some sort of greasy release agent when they made tires so something needed to be done to get it off. Hence sanding, burnouts, acetone, chants to the undergods. These days there's no need but people still like to do it for some reason. I do what you do. Some slow S turns and a few moderate starts and stops and call it good. The biggest thing is going from square old lovely tires to new round ones. I have almost steered my bike into the ground because I was used to wrenching the bars to get the drat thing to tip in.
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Mar 25, 2009 04:01
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