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It seems like the dealer markup varies location to location. I was looking at a 600RR a few weeks ago and they marked the drat thing up to over 11 grand with all of the fees. I think that's kind of silly. I can understand some doc fees but not much else. The prep is paid for by Honda same as the car dealer charges you for PDI when it's paid by the manufacturer. I guess they are just hoping someone walks in dumb as a post with pockets full of money (or at least a good credit rating). Used, who knows. It depends on what the bike is and how rare and/or in demand it happens to be. They want to move it but they still want to make a profit.
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Mar 27, 2009 04:58
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 10:05 |
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Whatever Honda uses is the same size that Suzuki does cause my adapters fit in both. I think they were too small in the Ninja 250. I'll check and edit this post.
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Mar 27, 2009 15:10
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Bridgestone BT45s and Pirelli Sport Demons are two good sporty tires that come in your sizes. I've had both on different bikes and have liked both. The Sport Demons seem to last a bit longer.
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Mar 28, 2009 01:14
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I wonder how much power that thing makes. My stepfather has a 650 Ural that's pretty drat gutless. That sidevalve engine has got to be scary slow.
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Mar 28, 2009 15:21
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I've heard people say not to use WD because it's a penetrant and will get into the O rings. I also know a bunch of people who use it for cleaning and they haven't been complaining about their chains so who knows. I stand by my Simple Green, Grunge brush and a garden hose. 10 minutes and you are clean as can be.
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Apr 1, 2009 05:15
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Advanced Auto/Kragan/Autozone usually have a O-ring selection behind the counter as well. I've had semi good luck finding some there from time to time. Worth a shot anyway.
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Apr 6, 2009 03:05
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I wear Army style boots which also don't have any ankle protection except for good thick leather. I am looking into getting a new set of motorcycling boots but have dreaded doing the research. I probably need to wade into the gear thread one of these days and have a look at what people are wearing.
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Apr 14, 2009 14:58
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Phy posted:What's the best way to align your wheels if you don't trust the notches on the swingarm? You can measure from the center of the axle on either side of the bike to some fixed point. Say the swingarm axle, the peg mounting bolts (if they bolt up the same on both sides) or whatever. I usually do this once on a new bike to see if the hash marks are true or not. If they are ok, I never bother again. I have been pretty lucky and most of my bikes have been drat close.
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Apr 18, 2009 03:16
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I don't know where you'd take lovely gas to get rid of it. Maybe a recycling center? Maybe try shops in your area too. If someone was cool and brought a gallon or two of petroleum product to dispose of, I'd probably just dump it in the waste oil container.
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Apr 19, 2009 01:58
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Ok, what would cause my bike to lose ignition for a half second then be fine? Today after a ride on the freeway it stalled. It then restarted no problem. It did this three or four more times then seemingly fixed itself. When going back on the freeway I could feel it hiccup every once in a while. After a few times of this I noticed when it had it's hiccup the tach needle would drop then recover. At idle the hiccup seems to be enough to kill it while on the freeway it's spinning enough RPMs to recover despite losing spark for a half second. I just got done pulling all of the plastics off of the bike, starting it and wiggle testing every connection having to do with the ignition system and pretty much every other one just for good measure. I couldn't get it to crap out again. I don't even know what to look at next. Are these bikes known to have ignition issues? I have the service manual and there are tests for the box, sender and coils, but it's running fine right now and everything would probably test good. Any ideas? Bike is an '85 GS(X) 700.
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Apr 19, 2009 03:07
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The tach doesn't drop all the way to zero, say it's at 5,500 and it hiccups, it drops to maybe 2000 or so then jumps back up. The problem doesn't last long enough for it to get to zero. I did check my battery terminals and they are tight and clean. I didn't really think of the kill switch. I'm going to try turning it on and off a bunch of times and then take some loops around the neighborhood. If that seems to work I'll do a disassemble and clean on it. Looking on eBay it's pretty slim pickings for the 700s. I did find a box for an 88 kat that looks the same. I'm going to email the seller for the PN and see, but knowing Suzuki it will probably work fine.
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Apr 19, 2009 05:05
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I was cruising on the freeway when I noticed the tach. On the gas, 5th gear, clutch out. That's why I figured it had to be some type of electrical issue. I am just having a problem figuring out what would kill it for a half second then be ok again. Most times it's like you are saying, broke is broke.
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Apr 19, 2009 06:07
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Well, I'll give it a good looksie tomorrow and report back with what I can find out. I'll go through all of the connections with my tube of dielectric grease and see if any look particularly lovely. I'm glad it waited until now to have this problem though. I put exactly 973 miles on it last weekend and it performed flawlessly. EDIT:VVV I'll do that for sure. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 06:24
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Well, it's still being a mechanical rear end in a top hat but in slightly different ways. Now that I unplugged and replugged all of the ignition connections, it seems to have fixed the bike of it's cutting out at highway speeds problem. It still dies at low rpm and idling while hot. When it does this the tach doesn't just drop, but goes down as it would if you shut the bike off so I'm guessing it's something new that's popped up. Or related somehow but not exactly the same problem. I was thinking maybe heatsoak, but I have my fuel line run away from the engine as far as possible. It is harder to get started again and sounds like it's only catching on two cylinders for a few rpms when restarting. Before it would immediately come back to life. Once it gets over this, it runs and idles just like always. Any more ideas? A word of advice to anyone reading. If you are executing a low speed turn through a busy intersection and the bike cuts off midway through you just might drop it and look like an idiot. It's been 15 years since any of my bikes have hit the pavement and in the last week I've put this one over on the same side twice. At least this time I wasn't going backward.
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Apr 20, 2009 04:03
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Nerobro posted:
Excellent. That I can fix with a minimum of annoyance. O-rings ordered. Strange that both of these problems popped up together. I'm guessing it was either the long ride last weekend or the fact that it's been above 80 for the first time since I've had the bike. Thanks for all the help!
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Apr 20, 2009 06:58
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I would chop it so it has however many links are stock. It should put you at or near the beginning of the adjustment range.
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Apr 20, 2009 14:49
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Depending upon what you have, you may need a special tool but most forks you don't. To do the forks on my bike I would need some metric allens, a ratchet handle, a few metric sockets a screwdriver and maybe some miscellaneous other stuff that's not at all uncommon. The biggest pain (beside taking it apart) is getting the lower legs off of a conventional fork without an impact gun. With a hand tool the securing bolt has a tendancy to spin when you are trying to take it off. An impact would make quick work of it. However, if you brought your fork legs to any shop with decently nice techs they would probably gun both of the bolts off for free in about 20 seconds. Bring the forks back with a few bills for a tip when you are done and they will gun them back on for you.
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Apr 21, 2009 04:07
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Reporting back with my oddly acting bike findings. Did the intake O rings, cleaned and dielectric greased all of my electrical connections and cleaned the pilot jets. My intake O rings were wasted. #1 actually had dirt packed in around it from sucking so much air. The rest weren't nearly as bad but they were totally flat and cracked into pieces when I took them out. The carbs didn't look too dirty but I figured since it was idling lovely may as well while I am in there. The (electrical) plugs looked fine but I greased them up anyway. Verdict: The bike acts like a totally different machine now. It lost the lopey, lumpy idle (which I kinda liked) that it's had since I bought it. It now sounds like a sewing machine, totally steady and smooth. Throttle response seems to be better and it comes back down to idle without almost dieing. Riding it, it honestly seems to vibrate less. I thought that it was vibrating more recently, which would coincide with the complete making GBS threads out of the O rings, and I must have been right. It's still not smooth by any means, but my hands didn't tingle when I got off like they used to. Overall, I am pretty amazed at how much better it runs now. Thanks Nerobro for the advice.
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Apr 25, 2009 20:58
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Nerobro posted:it's magic isn't it :-) You're welcome. Just "little" intake leaks lead to pretty severe poo poo from the riders perspective. I did the valves about 2k ago adjusted to the loose end of spec. Is this where you would recommend leaving them? I am pretty drat good at valves. I can get an NSXs valves adjusted in about two hours with every valve drat near perfect to loose spec. I am going to go and balance the carbs again when I have more time. I did it once already, but I'm sure the reading wasn't very good with it pulling vacuum in front of the carbs. I stuck three rows of stick on wheel weights to each other then shoved them into the bars a few weeks ago when the vibration was really starting to get to me. It seems to have helped as well.
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Apr 25, 2009 21:48
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You know, I've never thought about how carb sync would affect bikes of different engine size. From my experience with my little Hondas, it makes perfect sense. Hmm, the more you know. I didn't know my bike made around 90hp. It's pretty docile until the last 2k rpm where it hits pretty hard.
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Apr 26, 2009 00:58
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Where's the best place to pick up a chain and sprocket set? Bike Bandit or the other usual suspects? Also, what brand would you recommend? I moved a bit out of the city and my commute shot up to about 50 miles daily. The GS needs to be in top form to make sure I can get to work every day. Currently the chain seems to go out of adjustment every 1000 miles and is misting rusty powder from between the links. I'm thinking it's time for a new one.
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May 8, 2009 15:05
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Hopefully you don't have weird ears like me. From looking in a mirror they look just like normal ears but I've tried every set of ear buds I can get my hands on and they all fall out. That's just from walking around. Trying to keep them in with a helmet on? Hell no. It's a bummer too. I commute 50 miles a day on the bike and would like to listen to some music once in a while. I've been considering dropping the coin on the ER6s but I'm afraid I'll be in the same boat.
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May 13, 2009 16:33
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^^^I'll second the intake boot O ring replacement. Your bike will do screwed up things with leaky intake boots. Run fine, then miss when riding, then not idle, then stumble, then run fine again. I couldn't even get it to change by spraying the boots with carb cleaner. I was chasing my tail until I changed the O rings and the bike is the happiest it's been since I've owned it.
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May 18, 2009 00:50
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I wrapped a set of headers I had on my Scirocco mostly to try and save my steering rack boots from cooking. I put at least 80K on that set and they never degraded to my knowledge. When I did a motor swap later, I unwrapped them and they looked rusty but fine. I'm guessing unless the headers are paper thin you should be ok though I won't swear to it.
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Oct 26, 2009 01:16
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I'm not a chopper/bobber guy myself, but I've seen some really well done Yamaha XS650s. They seem to take really well to that style.
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Oct 26, 2009 02:10
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You won't get shocked anywhere on a motorcycle by electricity unless you are messing around with the spark plug leads while it's running. Even then you almost have to be trying. If it happened just after a rain storm I'd be looking into the housings for water. If not there, then the connectors running to the lights themselves. They could have water in them too. Also check your ground connections. Easiest way to do this would be to have a service manual handy to show you where they are but you can always follow the wires.
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Dec 1, 2009 06:13
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I would think if the steels or clutch plates are warped significantly that would cause it to drag. I've also seen cheap replacement clutch sets that had friction material bonded to the edges which caused disengagement problems.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:39
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Pretty sure most MC plugs are 18mm. All of the ones in my bikes have been.
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Dec 8, 2009 03:05
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the walkin dude posted:So... my Ninjette is broken down (wiring short or something somewhere). It's been down since the end of November. I would do the tank fill and Stabil for sure. See if you can get at the float drains at the carbs as well and empty them. Rust in the tank and gunk in the carbs is where you run into problems with storing a bike.
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Dec 20, 2009 03:50
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First off I'd like to state for the record that I got my butt whooped through corners by a girl riding a Ninja 250. This was up a hill and me on the 700. Yes, I suck. Trackdays, here I come. Anyway, I'm going to be buying a new tank for my recently acquired Bandit 400 since the one that it has now is rusted through in several places besides having a big dent in it. Besides being nearly impossible to find in good condition due to them only having been imported for two years, these tanks are apparently made of generic tin foil and rust with a fervor that makes 70's Fiats jealous. The last one of these bikes I looked at had been stored properly with a full tank of fuel so the drat thing rusted through ON TOP instead of the bottom. It's ridiculous. I am wondering if I should just go ahead and POR 15 it as a preventative measure or just leave it be and hope for the best.
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Dec 26, 2009 04:03
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I just tried to register an account with Maximum Suzuki and it won't accept any Gmail or Hotmail addresses. I signed up for a free GMX mail account and it won't accept that one either. How do you register? Need to .gov email for them to trust you?
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Dec 26, 2009 19:44
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I'm not really familiar with these cams in particular, but if that were a cam out of a Honda car I would say it's fine and has about 10k miles on it. Most newer stuff doesn't have the nice shiney even wear that you're used to seeing. Maybe it's cheaper machining or something.
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Dec 28, 2009 06:14
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I never compress them when coming apart. No need at all if you're using an impact.
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Jan 2, 2010 05:15
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Yeah, I'm not exactly sure the mechanics of it, but it must be the individual impacts from the hammers in the gun. Same way as when taking off a crank pulley with an impact vs. breaker bar. Breaker bar just spins the crank, impact shoots the bolt off no problem.
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Jan 2, 2010 18:56
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Ok, bike registration question. From what I gather, to register an out of state bike in CA I need to bring it to DMV to get the numbers, lights and whatever inspected to prove the bike is roadworthy and not put together out of stolen bits. What happens if the bike doesn't run? Not much to inspect beside the numbers. Is this good enough? My Bandit is from Washington. I have the title and was planning on putting it in my name and registering it non-op but am not sure if I can register it at all until it can be inspected. Am I making this out to be way more confusing than it needs to be?
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Jan 8, 2010 04:22
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Ah, very good. Guess I will put it on the truck this weekend and have a go at getting it legal and registered to sit in a parking space and not be ridden (thanks CA for making me do that). I'm glad I have AAA, makes things like this so much easier as far as wait times go...
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Jan 8, 2010 05:39
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Nice, simple fixes are the best. Reminds me of taking one of my old bikes out for a ride only to have it die a block away from the house. Cue "GODDAMN loving STUPID BIKE, WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH IT N...oh, left the petcock off".
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Feb 2, 2010 07:42
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Some dirt bike shops seems to stock a good assortment of silicone hoses which they sell for cheap. Then again some don't so you might be looking for a while. I've used regular car type fuel hose and it works but it's thick and doesn't like to bend around things like the stock stuff. For number two, sounds like your battery is dead. For number three, try tapping the carb float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver. The float may be hung up somewhat and the tapping might fix it. On my old 350F if I let it sit more than a few days all four carbs would piss gas until I gave them a tap, after that it was all good.
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Feb 5, 2010 05:33
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The 6 is how wide the bolt itself is 6mm. The 25 is how long it is in mm. Probably any would work just as long as the head fits into your cases. I know most M6 bolts usually have a 10mm head on them so they may not fit into the holes in the case. You can always replace them with allen head bolts. They should fit anywhere. Also, I would try to get at least a grade 8 bolt so you don't have to worry about snapping it while tightening. Suzuki seems to be a fan of Grade 4 and I don't know how many times I've snapped a bolt that I was just snugging in, not even to the real tightening part yet. This may also have been due to dumbassedness on the part of POs though. EDIT: On the oil change interval deal, I change my oil when the bike starts shifting funny. The manual says 4k for changes and it seems to start shifting lovely between 3500 and 4500 so I guess they were pretty spot on.
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Feb 7, 2010 18:30
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 10:05 |
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Yeah, basically any moving violation shows them that you are irresponsible and a possible risk to them. I pay about $250 every six months for liability with uninsured/underinsured coverage about as high as it can go through State Farm. It's kinda high but I live in San Diego where everyone runs into everything all the time so I wasn't expecting miracles. My biggest worry was getting hit by someone with the state minimum of 15k liability or no insurance at all and being stuck in the hospital for weeks with no one to pay for it hence the high coverage.
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Feb 10, 2010 05:37
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