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Bob Morales posted:disc breaks I broke a disc by leaving it in the sun once  It had really good porn on it, too!
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Oct 6, 2008 20:15
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kcer posted:suggested the rev limiter is set too high but admitted it didn't sound like it when he sees it.
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Oct 10, 2008 19:13
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Should I keep my registration with me on the bike? I know with a car, it's license, registration, and insurance ... the same for bikes?
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Oct 20, 2008 20:33
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Ok, another stupid one. I feel like I have better control over the throttle when my hand is completely wrapped around it, but it significantly cuts into my reaction time, because if something happens and I suddenly need to brake, it feels like it takes a long time to get back on the front brake. I've taken to rolling my thumb under the throttle and keeping at least two if not all four fingers on the brake. I don't always, but generally when I'm not on an empty straightaway with great visibility. Am I making a newbie mistake? How should I deal with this?
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Oct 20, 2008 22:07
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Sounds like your clutch is slipping. Adjust it?
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Oct 25, 2008 19:51
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philkop posted:oils looking a lil low too, would that cause my bike to act like that? It could, theoretically - not likely, though. Still, easy enough to test and fix it 
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Oct 26, 2008 03:22
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So, theoretically, if one were riding a carburated 644cc single cylinder up a very steep hill, and managed to very slowly lay it on it's right side, would it be normal for gas to pour out? In theory, we're talking about an '09 DR650. One with light scratches to the plastic over the tail pipe and no other observed damage. One that didn't fire up when first righted and cranked, but started up when it got a little throttle on the second try of cranking.
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Oct 27, 2008 04:44
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Z3n posted:Yes. Carbs, gas tanks, etc. aren't always designed to seal when upside down, on their sides, or whatever. Overflows will puke gas, seals will not seal correctly, etc. Buisness as usual, just don't light yourself on fire. My bad I didn't even get my gear dirty, but I took off down a dirt road I saw off of the 5 freeway and went up a hill I shouldn't have. I looked at it at the bottom and pretty much knew I wouldn't make it, but tried anyway for some reason.I got about thirty feet up the forty foot section before I chickened out - as soon as I touched the front brake, it was over. The bike leaned right and I very very very gently set it down. Tried to keep it up, but it was too far over. I kill switched it, then reality set in and I realized I was in for a lovely time after that - I was standing in soft dirt, on a ~35 degree incline, 30 feet about anything approaching level ground, with a big, heavy bike I now needed to pick up. I got it back up and realized I was very happy it was still in gear - the front brake wasn't holding it on the hill, but the engine was holding it with the clutch in. It took me about 10 minutes of pulling the back end toward me, then slipping the clutch to get it back to the bottom of the hill. I set it on the kickstand as soon as I could, took off my gloves and helmet to cool off for a bit, checked for obvious signs of gas soakage, then tried to start it back up. Like I said, it cranked but didn't fire. I killed the electrics, waited a few moments, then tried again. Same thing, til I touched the throttle - then it started right up. I rode it the 100 feet down the dirt road back to the main highway, let it idle for a bit while I stripped off the gear again, stretched, looked it over, then got on and rode home. VERY slowly 
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Oct 27, 2008 05:36
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Z3n posted:Don't ride around with your throttle sticking, it's asking for trouble. Sure, nothing may come of it, but it may also malfunction when you try to slam the throttle off as a car pulls in front of you.
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Oct 29, 2008 20:01
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I usually park in a parking space, but it does seem pretty common to park on the sidewalk near stores - I imagine it's probably fine. Your bike should have a helmet lock (I was pretty sure Ninja 250s did, anyway) - look for a small keyhole near the backend of the bike. It operates a clip for the d-ring of your helmet. Gear indicators are possible, but the reason they don't do it rather than a neutral light (esp. on "cheap" bikes) is that it adds considerable complexity. Something like this, though that one doesn't say it works with the 250r. I'd call them to check. I'm still having the same problem with my mirrors. I'd imagine aftermarket mirrors might be better, but the only way I can think of to solve it would be mounting them further up/out and mine are already pretty out there.
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Oct 30, 2008 18:08
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Kyon posted:I've been riding for about 4 months now and since I started getting a little more aggressive with my riding I've noticed that the rear end of my bike tends to get a little wiggly when I brake hard before a corner. Check your tire pressure first, that could cause this and is most likely/cheapest to fix.
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Nov 7, 2008 09:46
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Ola posted:Aaaaaaaaa I can't stop thinking about the clutch getting a tiny bit of the skin on my leg, then before I can react it has skinned it and torn a chunk off the muscle Want to never sleep again? Google imagesearch "degloving".
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Nov 7, 2008 11:57
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JebattoRocket posted:... Synthetic is probably more the norm for bikes. It's like like 2.3L will cost much, even if you buy mobil1.
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Nov 9, 2008 00:13
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Nerobro posted:Leaves are my worst enemy. I can competently ride my bike in snow. I can even handle some ice. Leaves? They are the devil. To the point I have chosen not to ride the last week or so due to so much leaf matter on the streets. And this is the real reason I love Southern California...I can't remember the last time I actually saw leaves on the ground 
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Nov 12, 2008 19:14
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dietcokefiend posted:I mean not monthly costs but what amount on liability for bodily harm. Does your state have required minimums? In CA they're something like 50k, which I found reasonable.
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Nov 17, 2008 19:39
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Z3n posted:CA is 15/30/5, state minimum. Oh, then progressive lied to me, and my insurance could be (but won't be, because I'm happy with the coverage) cheaper. I'm carrying 100/300/100 as well, as it turns out. (I told them I wanted the state mins, they said 50, I just checked, I'm actually higher. Cool.)
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Nov 18, 2008 09:09
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Nerobro posted:No, the TTR225 is an enduro. Not a trail bike. :-) Yes, it should have a title. And it does have a key. That's worrying then. I'd not buy it.
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Nov 18, 2008 21:49
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Z3n posted:Ahem. Don't remove the cutout. Lube it up, get it fixed, but it's a very simple thing that could save your rear end from an easy mistake to make that could put you on your rear end. I'm agreeing with this. I'm still working on it for me, but there have been at least 4 times I've gotten my gear on, kicked it in gear, and had the bike die - and wondered why. It took me a couple seconds to realize that switch had saved my rear end each time. Edit: If it doesn't work at all, buy a new one. It's 37.09 from bikebandit. Part # 27010A Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Nov 21, 2008 |
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Nov 21, 2008 22:08
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Slimy Hog posted:So, I don't know if I am going to get a lot of flak for this post but here it goes: 70s / 80s UJM cruisers, 450, 550, 650, all should be fine for a first bike.
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Nov 29, 2008 10:13
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Orange Someone posted:Also, when adding aforementioned friend to my insurance, the cost of it went down. He's about the same age as me, the bike's still registered same place and he's been riding less time than I have. The only thing I can think that makes sense is that he's got a full car license and has had for 3 years or so. But why does a car license have anything to do with my bike (or does it?)? My insurance also went down when I added my sister, and although she's also got less experience than me, she's also got a full car license. Both of them only have CBTs, neither have passed the full bike test yet.
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Nov 30, 2008 14:32
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QnoisX posted:Hehe...yep. Just looked it up in the manual and it does say to use 87. So the manual says 87 and the reminder sticker under the passenger seat says 91. Maybe I'll just use 89 to split the difference. Or not. I suppose if the engine doesn't care, then I shouldn't worry about it. Using a higher octane than required probably won't help anything, so it's just a waste. Ninja250.org agrees - use 87. My stupid question: I was riding to work yesterday, and took a right turn at pretty low speed - maybe 5mph. There was a pothole in the middle of the turn, not a big one, but enough that when the front wheel hit it, it definitely unsettled the bike. It felt momentarily like the bike tried to fall, but I reacted and stood it up. In thinking about it, though, I sort of think that the feeling I had was the suspension moving over the bump, not the bike falling over. So, is that true, and is it better to react in a situation like that, or to let the suspension handle it? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Dec 3, 2008 |
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Dec 3, 2008 09:21
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Z3n posted:You have really soft, long travel suspension, so I doubt that it was the suspension just taking it up. You did the right thing to stand the bike up somewhat there to compensate for it falling into the corner, as long as it didn't cause you to blow the corner. Also, sometimes potholes at low speed can cause the bike to do strange things as the front wheel catches a seam or gets the edge of the hole at a strange angle. So...sounds like you did just fine. If the suspension handles it, great, but sometimes the suspension won't handle sharp edged bumps at a strange angle correctly. Cool. I still made it around the corner, so all good
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Dec 3, 2008 20:05
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:Is it bad to run a bike in the top fourth of it's rev range for an extended period of time? I know my 250 didn't have a problem with it on highways, but will sportbikes and the like want to explode or anything? Sportbikes are certainly designed to do it. I would argue that basically any motor (car, bike, truck) built since, say, the mid 90s can comfortably run anywhere from idle to redline for extended period with no ill effects, if it's well maintained. My DR650 is easily in the upper third/fourth of the rev range at highway speeds, I spent two hours up there yesterday, no prob.
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Dec 7, 2008 17:35
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GriszledMelkaba posted:The tiny increase of injury from a get off seems pretty negligible. I just imagine the constant arrhythmic blasts backwards once you're going faster than 70mph more bothersome. Seems like that'd get real loving annoying. Of course, the aerodynamic issues are real easy to overcome - take side streets, and ride slow.
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Dec 9, 2008 11:38
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8ender posted:POR-15 has a good kit I've heard good things about. Since its part of the frame its going to be tricky to use it though, as I think you have to slosh it around for best effect. Wrap a blanket around the moped, throw it in the back of a truck, do donuts around a dirt parking lot
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Dec 20, 2008 20:57
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Spartak posted:My bike (Honda CB250N) is due for an oil change and I'm having trouble getting the oil drain plug loose. I tried the spanner, tried the breaker bar, but it doesn't budge. PB Blaster, or WD40 if you don't have that. It's not reverse thread for some reason, is it?
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Dec 20, 2008 23:35
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My bike (an '09 DR650, about 1800 miles) has developed a squeak. It only seems to happen as I slow down from about 12mph to 0mph (indicated). It's not related to the brakes, as it happens under sudden braking. It seems to match wheel speed, and I'm guessing it's the speedo sensor, but not sure. Any suggestions, and how should I lube it?
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Dec 27, 2008 22:03
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Nerobro posted:You didn't directly answer my question, but I'm going to gather it's a free bike. Follow-up to my earlier question: I went outside and rolled the bike up to about 20, then decel'd ... helmet off, so I could hear better Anyway, sound wasn't there. I guess maybe something was lodged in the brake or something and my loving around slamming on the brakes knocked it loose. The bike DID do it after sitting for 8 hours at work, so I don't think it's a "not up to temperature" issue.
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Dec 28, 2008 00:50
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Krakkles posted:I don't think it's a "not up to temperature" issue. Still looking for suggestions.
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Dec 28, 2008 06:46
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Z3n posted:Are you absolutely positive it's coming from the front end? Can you induce it by bouncing the hell out of the front forks? No, and no. I'm going over to BabyHitler's house tonight, I'll probably have him give it a listen. It's too hard to tell where it's coming from with my helmet on, and I haven't gotten it to do it rolling up and down the street in front of my house
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Dec 29, 2008 01:36
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I'm still working on it, but so far, 3 months, 1850 miles, no (real) accidents. I dropped the bike offroad once (let off the throttle on a hill, ~0.5mph) and in a parking lot once (DURING MY loving LICENSE TEST). Still got the license, have a bent rear brake pedal I should fix at some point.
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Dec 30, 2008 03:40
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I went out to a parking lot (actually, the one where the ending car scene of "Superbad" was filmed) and horsed around with the bike (DR650) a bit today, and have a few questions. 1) What's the right way to get up (and down, though I think I have that mostly covered) a curb? I went up and down a few just to get some practice in - all "standard" size (read: not very big, 6-7" probably) - and basically just rolled up slow (<5mph) and goosed the throttle as the front wheel rolled up. It seemed to work well enough, but that's rarely a sign of it being the right way, right? 2) How slow should I be going for standard curbs? Can I do it faster? 3) How about bigger curbs? Finally, basically unrelated: What's the right way to clean a visor? I've been just using warm water, it seems to work pretty well, but always looking for pointers. Edit for fun stuff: The driveway the car comes down at the very beginning, I was going up the curb just to the right of that - and up the little hill after. Edit 2: Debating trying to go all the way up the hill @ 0:20 too. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jan 5, 2009 |
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Jan 5, 2009 04:38
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Nerobro posted:Going up sharp edged bumps.. .like curbs, is best done slowly. If you can wheelie it a little, make sure you get the tire high enough to get over the curb.
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Jan 5, 2009 04:49
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Z3n posted:You've got loads of clearence and travel on the big thumper, so you don't have to worry about things that you'd typically be concerned about (scraping plastics, bottoming out forks hard). Make sure to hit them head on, wear your gear, and have fun. Sounds great, I'd love to have someone around to tell me when I screw up - or watch do things right Confession: This post is why I started thinking about curbs
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Jan 5, 2009 06:53
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Z3n posted:All anarchy/riding like an rear end in a top hat aside, sometimes it's a better to hop a curb then get, say...rear ended. I don't anticipate ever having to do it, but if I do, I'd rather have had a few shots at it before I get out there and do it for real. Which means I can justify wheelies but stoppies I haven't come up with a reason for yet
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Jan 5, 2009 08:55
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Z3n posted:Stoppies obviously occur when you're practicing braking. That's how I started doing them... I haven't gotten the rear far up, but I have had a couple of quick stops that resulted in either just that little bit of satisfying tire scuffing (which I love) or a bit of rear-end squirreliness. I guess next time I'm in that parking lot I'll try to get the rear up. Worst case I go over the handlebars, right?
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Jan 5, 2009 09:27
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Z3n posted:What are you refering to when you say you're getting "tire scuffing"? Sound Mr. Brown posted:Or you dump the front tire and go down awkwardly...
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Jan 5, 2009 22:03
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Ok, I did a stoppie last night, and one tonight Last night I stalled because I forgot to pull the clutch in - it was super low speed, so no problem, but something to keep in mind. Tonight, I fixed that, but I hadn't clicked down to first, so I stalled when I tried to take off. Both were probably roughly a foot up - felt good! All on a semi-closed road, of course. As in, one in, one out, straight, no possibility of anyone coming on it without tons of lead time and me knowing. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 11:47
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Prince posted:So the question is, should I pay $300 for a black Nolan, or $560 for a white Shoei? If not, no, it's probably not worth it. Being visible is good, but 99% of safety on a bike comes down to what YOU do, not being what other people do.
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Jan 8, 2009 13:04
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Skier posted:This is why I don't run a muffler on any of my bikes.  blugu64 posted:Headlight modulators, yes or no? I've only seen it once on the road but it caught my attention real quick. They seem to work really well, it's definitely on my "to buy" list.
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Jan 8, 2009 20:50
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