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I need at least one mirror on my '84 Honda Magna to be road legal. It seems that OE parts aren't available. Is there a trick to selecting an aftermarket mirror? I see the threaded holes on the handlebars where the mirrors used to be, but I don't know what mirrors I can choose from.
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Oct 14, 2008 14:19
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Nerobro posted:Excepting Yamaha, all mirrors use the same mount. 10mm metric thread. Just hop on ron ayers, bikebandit, or dennis kirk and buy a set you think is pretty. This is exactly what I was hoping for. Now that I have way too much to look at, are there any mirror guidelines I should know about? I'm all about function over form, so whatever will (cheaply) translate to safer riding is what I want to get. Edit: I would also like to get a new set of handlebars. Is there a standard size for those as well, or are those something I would have to hunt around for? NVaderJ fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Oct 14, 2008 |
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Oct 14, 2008 14:38
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I'm not sure if this is too in-depth, but I might as well try. My '84 Magna V30 has malfunctioning turn signals. Sometimes one signal will work properly, sometimes none will. When I turn the right signal on, I hear the flasher clicking, rapidly, but no lights. The left signal works ok, but only the rear. I have checked all the bulbs (all appear to be ok), and fuses (again, all ok), along with the connections immediately preceding the turn signals. In my opinion, this would leave three possible culprits: 1. The actual signal hand control. I have read a few posts on other forums discussing the finicky behavior of these switches, so I guess it could be the control, but doesn't seem very likely given that I hear the "tick-tock" for both sides. 2. Grounding. I have also read that a missing or poorly connected ground wire can result in goofy poo poo like this as well. I have three service manuals on their way to my home sometime this week, so I may be able to test this theory after I figure out exactly how the system is grounded. 3. Bad switch assembly. The diagrams I have looked at online are fairly vague (old fiche, low res bitonal scans), but I believe this is the correct part. Basically, the box that makes the "tick-tock" sound is located next to the battery, and has a 4 or 6 wire harness attached to the top of it. The front of the box has two screws with a section of wire running between the two. The harness on top is ok, but it looks as if a few of the wires going into the harness have melted. I don't know if this is more indicative of a problem elsewhere, or a problem with the switch assembly itself. Behold, my half-assed attempt to diagram this:  I can probably figure this out myself, given enough time and trial-and-error, but if anyone has any advice, I'd be very grateful.
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Oct 21, 2008 17:47
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Z3n posted:Replace the wires first. You're going to have to do it, regardless, so fix what's broken first, because you'll have to do it period. If it doesn't fix the problem, no sweat, because you needed to fix that anyways. I'm concerned that whatever caused the wires to melt in the first place would just melt the new ones as well.
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Oct 21, 2008 18:40
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Z3n posted:You have a wiring diagram, right? It's in the mail. I bought an owners manual, a repair manual, and a clymers. Between those three, I better have a wiring diagram.
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Oct 21, 2008 18:53
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QnoisX posted:It's a bunch of small scratches from the rocks. Oh and a small dent in my exhaust pipe. I might try the color pen to make it a little less obvious and repaint it next spring when I'll be riding more. If you want to go the DIY route, I've read that you should use jbweld to fill in larger gouges, as it is able do deal with the vibration of the bike better.
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Nov 2, 2008 19:55
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I've been working on my '84 Honda Magna V30 for a few weeks now, and I am starting to get into the wiring. There are a few nagging problems with the information panel lights and turn signals, but what I am most annoyed by is the way the wiring is all crammed into the headlight case. It's near impossible to get everything lined up so the headlight fits properly. Is there any way to remedy this? I realize it's a great help to have easy access to these connections, but if I want to replace my headlight, where would all that crap go?
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Nov 4, 2008 21:08
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My restored bike is nearly perfect, but I'm having trouble chasing down an annoying problem. My instrument cluster turns on and off while riding. It generally comes on when I rev the bike above 9000 rpm, and stays on for a few minutes. After that it dies again, until I rev the engine again. It will also stop working if I turn my handlebars hard left. I suppose I'll eventually have to dig down to the wiring harness, but does anyone have any pointers regarding pinpointing the issue? The speedo still works regardless of the instrument cluster blinking out, so I've been living with it for the time being, but I can never be totally sure I've found neutral without my little green indicator. Any ideas?
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Apr 6, 2009 23:21
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Legitimate posted:I'm interested but he can't produce a valid title. If he gets it together I'll be all over it. I had the same thing happen to me with my Magna. The guy who sold it to me never transferred the title to himself. Luckily it wasn't a problem at the DMV (aka secretary of state, in Michigan). Got my new title in the mail earlier this week. They never even asked me a question once they saw the sale price was $700.
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Apr 10, 2009 21:40
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How hard is it to get a center stand back on a bike if I were to take it off to paint it? The spring sort of scares the poo poo out of me. I don't want to wrestle with a rusty weapon sprung to kill me if I don't do it right on the first try.
NVaderJ fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Apr 11, 2009 |
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Apr 11, 2009 03:57
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Gnomad posted:The easy solution begins before you take the spring off. Thanks! This worked perfectly.
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Apr 11, 2009 23:34
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For most of the early spring, my bike was running great. Now, suddenly, I've lost most if not all of my top end power. If I engage my clutch at low rpm, I'm fine until around 5000 rpm. Beyond that, I can barely build revs when moving. If I try to release the clutch from around 5000 rpm, it bogs and nearly stalls. What should I be looking at to get it running better again?
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Apr 17, 2009 21:08
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Ola posted:What bike is it? Does the bogging point move a bit with temperature or is it dead on every time? I'd check the plugs for color and the air filter first. Maybe you're overdue for a valve clearance check. I plan on checking the plugs tomorrow. I don't have a torque wrench handy for reinstalling them; is it safe to torque them by feel, or do I get to go buy another tool (I might actually enjoy that)? One thing that concerns me is that the plugs are missing from the pilot screw cavities. I just read that engine vibration can cause pilot screws to move on their own (and occasionally just fall out completely). Is there any easy way to tell if they're out of factory adjustment without loving them up? I understand they control air-fuel mixture, and my bike has been running lean since I got it. I thought it was just a poorly sealed airbox, but if the pilot screws have been slowly turning clockwise, I guess that would also create lean conditions. Any input appreciated! I want to ride this thing again before the lovely weather hits Sunday evening.
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Apr 18, 2009 02:46
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