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I went into a dealership today looking at scooters and wound up looking at motorcycles. I can't help myself. Anyway, they recommended a KLX 250 SF instead of a scooter. Nevermind that they're completely different, the KLX looked like a lot of fun. I didn't think to try sitting on a DRZ 400, but I was wondering how the 250 would compare to a Suzuki DRZ 400 SM. I'm 5'10" so I'm not sure if height would be any issue. I want to be able to take my wife around on it too sometimes. Would a 250 be able to handle ~350 pounds? For that matter how would a 400 handle it? I've owned a Ninja 250 and SV650 before but something like a motard just sounds so fun. Lawn fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Oct 18, 2008 |
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Oct 18, 2008 04:19
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 14:03 |
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I'm looking at two different DRZ 400 SM's, both about the same price (4800 and 5000) but one with mods and one stock. I don't know anything about the mods, can anyone give some advice on this one? http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/880999702.html The other is $5000 for under 2000 miles and stock. Also, is that a pretty good price? Could I bargain it down much?
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Oct 18, 2008 23:31
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I checked out the DRZ with the mods and he's willing to sell it for 4300, but there's a lien on the bike. Nobody I know has any experience buying a vehicle with a lien... is it something to stay away from? If I have a bill of sale through the DMV form is that a legal guarantee that I should get the title? They were saying I'd make a check out to the bank, then they'd get the title, then transfer it to me. I'd have the bike in the meantime.
Lawn fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 20, 2008 |
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Oct 20, 2008 18:47
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Getting bikes on the center stand is easy once you know how, but it's pretty tricky if you've never done it before. It's really nice for lubing the chain but most bikes don't have the option for them.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:17
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A thumb under the throttle and at least your index and middle finger on the brake lever sounds perfect. Once you get used to it you'll be able to control the throttle just fine without having your whole hand wrapped around it. I actually feel awkward putting my whole hand around the throttle because I almost never do it.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:18
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I think my battery is dead, but I don't want to buy a new one and find out I was wrong. I have a Yamaha XT225 which can be a bit hard to start cold sometimes. The other night it cranked and cranked and I just gave up without actually riding it. I'm pretty sure that's probably what drained the battery. I rode it a few days later though, so I didn't think anything of it. Now when I turn the ignition, not even the neutral light or headlight turn on. I jumped the bike and rode for about 10 miles or so, turned it off, tried to turn it back on... not even the neutral light came on. I push started it and it worked fine but the battery isn't holding a charge. It's a '94 model and I don't know how old the battery is.
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Nov 8, 2008 22:40
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I've got a Yamaha XT 225 with a few issues now I think. I bought it and rode it around for a bit, then I tried cold starting it for a while and I think I drained the battery. The next day I jump started it from a car battery (car engine off) and it didn't hold the charge at all. I tried push starting it then and that worked. Now when I turn the ignition nothing happens most of the time. Sometimes if I shake the bike they come on full power, sometimes just really dimly. The bike won't start by push starting anymore. There's probably a loose connection somewhere but I can't find it anywhere. I'd appreciate any help I can get, or if anyone knows a good bike repair place in San Diego I'm really not sure if I'll be able to do this myself at this point. It's a 1994 model so I'm not sure if just anywhere would work on it or if dealers mostly do newer bikes. Edit: Also, is it safe to jump start a bike from a non running car? I've heard as long as the car engine is off it's okay, but the dealer I got a new battery from said it looked like the old battery cell exploded from jump starting off a car. Lawn fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Nov 16, 2008 |
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Nov 16, 2008 02:10
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It's already got a new battery, unless the new one isn't charged or something. Also, wouldn't it push start fine with a dead battery? Edit: Okay, I jump started it from a car and it worked. I think the battery probably wasn't charged, but after riding it around it doesn't seem to be holding a charge either. Lawn fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Nov 16, 2008 |
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Nov 16, 2008 05:30
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I just picked up a CBR F3, and lo and behold a few days later I realized the light is getting weaker, and gets brighter when revved. A few blocks away from home on the way back from work the bike died idling waiting for a light to turn. Now it clicks, tries to turn over, and won't start. I push started it, it ran for a bit, then died idling. My friend says he'd bet money it's the alternator, but I don't want to buy a new one if that won't solve the problem. Would a bad rec/reg unit cause it to die at idle like that? It happened too fast for it to just be an old battery, I ran the bike fine every day since I got it and kept the revs high enough that it should have charged. I know I need to solve that before replacing the battery, but do I absolutely need a new battery or could I charge it and use it once the alternator problem is solved?
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Dec 17, 2008 04:17
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What about if the voltage doesn't increase at all when reved/on? I'll still check the r/r... I found a good pictorial guide for my bike (http://cbrworld.net/forums/post/140473.aspx) so I'll test that out, but right now it's raining and I have no garage. If reving isn't increasing the voltage at all could it still be the r/r?
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Dec 17, 2008 06:12
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My Honda CBR F3 has a slightly rough idle and a little bit of power surging when low on the throttle. Under hard acceleration I've never noticed anything. It's also fairly hard to start cold. A friend of mine thinks it's a clogged pilot jet. I was wondering if seafoam or some other additive is likely to clean that out or if I should take the carbs apart and clean them. I don't have a carb sync tool so I don't want to mess up what's mostly working, but I don't want to buy some additive if I'm just going to have to take the carbs apart anyway.
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Dec 29, 2008 00:21
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I used seafoam to try and clean out the pilot jets so the power surging on my bike would go away. It starts up faster and the idling is pretty even, but the power surging almost seems worse at low throttle. I haven't had a chance to really test riding around with half+ throttle on steady yet. What else could cause power surging at steady low throttle? Do I just need to take the carbs off and properly clean them?
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Dec 30, 2008 05:52
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I was kind of thinking/afraid it might be something to do with air flow too. My bike is a CA model which the previous owner removed CA-emissions related stuff. I have tubes leading to nowhere, tubes connected to bypass the removed emissions parts, and no tubes where there should be tubes. It's not even set up exactly like a 49 state model, so maybe I'll look into at least doing that if I can. I'm not really sure which is more daunting though, that or having to take the carbs off.
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Dec 30, 2008 08:36
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How often are sprockets still good while the chain needs to be replaced? The chain on my bike is pretty old (17k miles, 14 years) and seems to have stretched out and has rust in parts, but the rear sprocket still looks good. Is it worth saving money to keep a sprocket if it looks good, or do most of you generally just replace it all at once regardless of how worn the sprockets are?
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Jan 9, 2009 03:03
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Is there really much of a difference going from a 530 chain to a 520 for street use? I've seen people talk about getting a 520 conversion to accelerate faster, but it seems like the weight change would be negligible. What about going from an O-Ring chain to an X-Ring? Do they really last that much longer?
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Jan 9, 2009 05:34
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I was riding my CBR F3 and it came to a stop and the bike died. The lights were still on, I gave it some throttle, it came back on for a second, then died again. I thought it was maybe just out of gas or something, so I pushed it to a gas station, but no luck. The headlights are bright, the lights all work. When I press the starter button nothing happens except the headlight turns off while it's pressed down. There's no clicking or any sound at all. I think the battery should be charged enough, and the headlights are really bright. Does this sound like a blown fuse, or is there something else I should check?
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Jan 23, 2009 07:43
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Turns out it was the starter solenoid fuse. The bike is a '95, and for all I know it was the original fuse, but it wouldn't just blow for no reason would it? Is there anything else I should check so my bike doesn't die again?
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Jan 23, 2009 22:17
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Has anyone heard of QLink before? They make a supermoto that looks pretty cool, but I've never heard of them. Supposedly the XF 200 uses a Suzuki DR200 motor, and they're really cheap (MSRP ~2600). http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Qlink-Xf200-Supermoto-Sport-Motorcycle.aspx http://www.qlinkmotor.com/product.php?id=46
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Jan 24, 2009 03:15
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 14:03 |
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Would trading my '95 CBR F3 with 17k miles for a 2000 KLR 650 with 21k miles be reasonable? I don't know if KLR's have any issues besides the doohickey, but I've had enough of taking off all of the plastics any time I have to work on the CBR. Plus, it'd be easier to stay under the speed limit on a KLR. KBB lists the CBR as being higher value, so I'm not sure if I should go for a straight up trade or try and sell it and buy a different one.
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Jan 27, 2009 22:16
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