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To make a short, painful story shorter my GS500E fell off its kickstand while warming up, partially engaged my center stand on the way down, and forced my handlebar to take the full weight of the bike. The clutch lever bent completely in half and snapped off. No matter how hard I pull on the cable it no longer disengages the clutch. The side of the bars that fell may also be slightly bent. I had been planning on replacing the clutch anyway, so it's not that terrible. So, though I've been reading everything I can online, how daunting will this be? It doesn't look too bad, but I'm wondering what curveballs the cable being messed up is going to throw at me. What do I need exactly? So far I have friction plates/clutch plates/fiber plates/whatever and a new lever on my list. Short of maybe a spring what else should I be picking up? The bike was shifting fine, just slipping, so I doubt the clutch basket needs to be replaced or anything. How daunting is this going to be? Any and all advice or wisdom you may have would be welcome.
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Oct 7, 2008 15:16
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Z3n posted:It'll be easy. Take a shop manual, take your time, don't overtorque the cover bolts, and it's pie. At worst, you may have hosed up the actuator shaft somehow, but I doubt it. If you have to order a new part, your bike may be down for awhile, while you wait for the part to show up, but it shouldn't be that bad. Considering that the bike is down regardless and the clutch cable, despite seemingly having tension, is not disengaging the clutch so I can't even roll it into the garage I'd say that's not my main concern. 
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Oct 7, 2008 18:20
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DOOKIE ROPES YO posted:I just happen to have a GS Twins shop manual lying around (don't ask). What year is your bike? !!! It's a '94.
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Oct 7, 2008 18:37
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Nerobro posted:Why does that stop you from riding? hell forget the motorcycle aspect, I went for a 16 mile bicycle ride two nights ago. In the rain. It's.. just.. rain.. While there is a difference between cruising around on a bicycle and hydroplaning mid turn at 65 I can agree with this. Many of the people that have a "no biking in the rain"(unless it's a fresh rain after a dry spell) policy are the same people that crawl along in their cars slowing traffic when there's a little water on the ground. As long as you pay attention without riding in total fear rain isn't a huge deal. greg_graffin posted:I also have no rain gear and showing up to work soaking wet for a 12 mile commute just isn't worth it. Well, I feel that. Whoa. Wife Turds fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Oct 17, 2008 |
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Oct 17, 2008 18:20
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antisocial86 posted:This is a really retarded question but does anyone know what kind of Harley Jax rides in Sons of Anarchy? According to Wikipedia most of the cast rides Dyna Superglides, but I can't speak to Jax specifically since I don't watch trash TV.
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Oct 21, 2008 15:08
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Simkin posted:As long as you stay in residential areas, and obey all local traffic laws, you're not going to get a second glance from any LEOs. Just make sure the tags on the bike aren't expired, don't act like you just stole it, and you should be fine. Since I've been meaning to ask forever and this is a question thread...where is your avatar from?
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Oct 22, 2008 21:07
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KidDynamite posted:Ok some crazy poo poo has been happening on my bike. I had the same problem with my bike. It turned out that the kickstand was a little loose at the top of its travel which was causing it to briefly stop making contact with the killswitch. Your problem may very well be something different but its worth checking out.
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Oct 23, 2008 15:53
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QnoisX posted:I have a few questions that I don't recall reading. On cold days is it okay to choke your bike to start and leave it choked till you are moving? I just got a 08 Ninja 250r and tried letting it warm up with the choke, dechoking, then starting, but it always dies when I let out the clutch. If I leave the choke in till I'm moving then it does fine. It sounds like the bike isn't really warmed up yet. I've heard people say the Ninja 250 takes longer to warm up than some (those same people described this same problem). If you're late for work you can give it more throttle when starting before you let out the clutch and let the clutch slip more as you release or ride it for a minute or so with it choked, but neither are particularly good for the bike.
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Oct 30, 2008 18:14
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dietcokefiend posted:Try out the HJC CL-15. I was cross shopping between that and the shoei RF1000. Similar feel and sizing. The CL-15 I got for 57 on clearance online, goes for about 130 retail. Having just purchased a CL-15 for my girlfriend I would advise against getting one if you have the money for a better helmet and are going to be riding a lot. The shell feels like (and is) extremely thick plastic, it doesn't carry its weight well, and it has all of 2 detents for the visor. It is definitely a beginner's helmet. The CL-SP might be a bit better but I haven't spent much time with it. Additionally, HJC liners aren't exactly comfy, though in my opinion neither are Shoei's. I may be a bit biased but I wear an Arai and I have never regretted the money I spent on it. If you can afford something with a fiberglass-like shell and a comfy liner then go for it.
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Nov 20, 2008 20:34
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The thing about HID lights is that they are irritating, lovely, and look unnatural at any color temperature. They are abominations to drivers/riders and so are the dickheads that put them on things that weren't fitted for them in the first place.
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Nov 26, 2008 21:40
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Oi..... So I try to start my bike this morning and first have starting problems that seem indicative of a low battery. This isn't surprising since I've basically been nursing the thing as long as I can before I have to buy a new one. I hook it up to a trickle and it immediately starts turning over upon hitting the starter. Great. However, the thing won't really start. I get spark and ignition, but it won't idle. Then I hear a few major explosions while trying to turn it over. It was most likely backfiring (SEEMED like it was coming from the exhaust), but it was so loud and jarring with a different note that really made me worry. I finally got the bike started, it idled fine, and I rode away. About halfway through my commute the fucker starts idling at 7K. Everyone at red lights thinks I'm trying to race them and my brakes are pissed. I have never, ever had a problem with the idle so I don't really want to just try to adjust the idle screw and assume everything's fine. Throttle response is still even through the whole range so I don't think it's cable issues(probably, anyway) but I'm open to ideas. What gives? This is sort of an emergency since I don't feel safe riding around like this and I have a meeting to get to at lunch. I'm thinking I'll adjust the idle screw just to rule out throttle cable but I was reading a GS forum (it's a GS500) and someone mentioned that it could be an O-ring between the carb and airbox that blew.
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Apr 9, 2009 14:04
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chryst posted:Rear lights, & seat lock position: Wow the way that's set up would make a fender eliminator a tall order methinks. That kind of sucks, especially considering the fender is freaking enormous. Awesome bike, though. I'd kill for that thing.
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Apr 9, 2009 14:49
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As I posted in my desperation thread it's inexplicably running fine now. Here's hoping that's permanent but in the meantime I'll keep your advice in mind. Thanks, guys.
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Apr 9, 2009 15:22
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I've been trying to google an acceptable answer to this to no avail: why is it that dirt helmets are the way they are? Why have separate goggles, a huge chinbar and a brim? Every reason I can come up with isn't compelling. I was thinking dirt has a tougher time getting into goggles, which may make sense, but some manufacturers put visors on their moto helmets. I could see the brim again keeping out dirt/the sun, but goggles/visors can block the sun and the dirt would just fall down anyway-- it's not like it would stay in front of your eyes suspended by gravity. Is it more of a style/tradition thing or is there a more compelling reason dirt helmets have remained considerably more unwieldy, less aerodynamic and more structurally bulging than their street brethren?
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May 5, 2009 16:27
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Nerobro posted:The goggles seal your eyes from dirt/mud/other poo poo. Again, goggles I can wrap my head around, but if a street chinbar doesn't save your face then what good is it? I understand that you're not typically falling from a 20 foot jump on a streetbike, but what about impacts? It doesn't add up for me. And a brim for deflecting brush? I mean, you already have a helmet all over your head, do you really need another chunk of helmet sticking in the wind to keep it away from the rest of the rest of the helmet where it would be deflected anyway? I guess the open face makes pieces of poo poo falling in your helmet more irritating. Regardless, it seems to make helmets like the Arai and others with built in visors kind of completely useless since apparently most of the technology is based around having to wear goggles. Charun posted:You've obviously never been offroad with a street helmet. It's really annoying when you get dust in your eyes while riding between trees at 60km/h. I obviously haven't or I probably wouldn't have asked. 
Whoa. Wife Turds fucked around with this message at 16:48 on May 5, 2009 |
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May 5, 2009 16:45
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Soooo...search is disabled and I'm going to assume this thread is more frequented than the gear thread. What is the best sounding isolating earbud for motorcycle use? I know there was an "e" word company that a lot of people liked...etyonix or something like that. I want something with good sound, volume, and bass that will stay in my ear with a helmet on. Sound isolation is secondary (I don't find wind/engine noise to be much of a bother) but I feel like buds that fit into the ear canal would stay put more effectively and provide better volume and bass. Regular earbuds absolutely refuse to stay in my ear even if I try to adjust their placement after the helmet is on.
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May 13, 2009 15:33
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Twenty-Seven posted:Etymotic. The model that gets recommended most often is the ER6. I have a pair and I like em. Thanks a bunch.
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May 13, 2009 16:18
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Bugdrvr posted:Hopefully you don't have weird ears like me. I just browsed the MP3 thread on the first page and it seems Etymotic sells a very small tip that may be up your alley if you're finding typical buds too big. Additionally, you can find the ER-6is for half of what Etymotic is asking on Ebay from reputable sellers.
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May 13, 2009 16:51
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I'm looking to replace the old tires on my GS500. 110/70-17 front, 130/70-17 rear, though apparently some use 140/70 or 140/80 rears in lieu of availability issues. I want a tire with good grip but not so soft that it will wear out in 1000 miles or something. Basically an aggressive street tire I can use for commuting and hitting up twisties on weekends. GS500 Wiki recommends: Performance: * Pirelli Sport Demon * Bridgestone BT-45 * Bridgestone BT-090 * Avon AV45/46** Michelin Pilot Active but I don't know how dated the list is and I'd rather get the opinion of people whose posts I can actually see scrolling in front of me. Whoa. Wife Turds fucked around with this message at 18:24 on May 27, 2009 |
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May 27, 2009 18:22
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Simkin posted:I rocked a set of Metzler Lasertec on my GS500, and they were amazing - at least as far as what was available to me. I had BT-45s installed on a previous bike, and they were not very confidence inspiring at all. They're also probably the oldest design out of that entire list - tyre technology has come a long way, even at the bottom end of the food chain. Yeah, this list is definitely several years old. It's mainly the reason why I'm looking for opinions. Thanks for the input. Anyone else have recommendations or preferences?
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May 27, 2009 18:36
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goku chewbacca posted:The BT-45 are great for the price. I think SWMotoTire still has them cheapest. I think I'm going to go with the Sport Demons since the BT-45s seem only marginally less expensive.
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May 27, 2009 20:32
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Okay. So. I'm well aware of the differences between radials and bias plys when mounted on a car...but what about bikes? I occasionally see things about bikes being specifically designed for bias or radial...is there any truth to this? Is having a separately flexing sidewall that leaves the contact patch alone as important on a motorcycle? I kind of feel like the additional feel and sense of traction a bias ply gives would be welcome. I'm pretty sure I have radials equipped on my bike right now but they're old as hell and I've decided on Sport Demons as replacements...is there any reason not to get bias ply tires (assuming I'm replacing both at the same time)? I've heard that radial in back and bias in front is doable, but I'll be replacing both so the point is moot.
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May 28, 2009 19:08
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aventari posted:Totally anecdotal but I get the best mileage in my F4i if if I short shift in town at around 3-3.5k and keep the freeway speeds below 75. I get up to 47mpg this way as opposed to as low as 39-40mpg when I'm going balls out everywhere. I would think you'd experience a much more severe drop if you were wringing it out all the time. The F4i is a high-redline revver, right?
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Jun 2, 2009 21:55
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