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Leaving work today, I hopped on the bike and was a bit too eager to get the kick stand up, and knocked the bike into gear, stalling it. On it's own I thought nothing of it, and the following may just be coincidence, but on the ride home the gears felt a lot harder than usual to change. I've not changed my foot position that I know and while on a quiet road, I had a look down while changing gear to make sure I wasn't resting on the rod connecting to rubber - I thought I might be pressing down the on the lever arm. That's problem 1. Problem 2 I noticed while adjusting my right trouser leg while at a red light. I'm sitting in 1st with the clutch held and right foot on the brake. When I go to adjust my trousers the bike starts pulling forward. Not very strongly, but enough to make me grab the front brake in super quick time. This was on a perfectly level road, and I double checked when I got home - same thing. I knocked it into neutral and back to 1st and tried again - just to satiate my admittedly lackluster knowledge - with the same results. Now I should mention here that since buying the bike, the clutch lever has always had a lot of play. So much so that it's worn a small nook into the left side fairing while locked. Of the approx. 3.5 - 4 inches the clutch lever moves through, only the last inch and a half is tight. So yeah, lots of play. To me it just seems like the clutch cable has reached it's life. I called a lad at work, and he concurred, but also suggested the rev limiter is set too high but admitted it didn't sound like it when he sees it. He gave me the number of a guy he trusts to work on his bike so I'll call him tomorrow morning, but I was wondering what AI think too. The bike's a 2002 YZF600R with 25k on the clock. I was told that it's never had any major work done, and it passed it's major service 4 months before I bought it.
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Oct 10, 2008 18:47
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:19 |
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D'oh, yes I meant idle, not limit.
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Oct 10, 2008 19:56
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I got the clutch adjusted on my YZF today, and while it's better positionally, it still feels like a light switch. The problem is the only means of comparison I have it the 500cc I did my lessons and test on. If you hold up your hand and cover your index finger so only the very last joint can move, the amount that it moves through is how much I have to move the clutch lever to go from stationary to fully open. Is this the norm?
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Oct 15, 2008 17:50
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It's not the play I'm bothered about, it's the actual application of the clutch. It's almost like turning on a switch. There's such a small movement between applying the clutch and taking it off. Maybe it needs an oil change, maybe the plates are worn? I can't be sure. I wonder if that lad at work would let me test it against his VFR 
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Oct 15, 2008 21:57
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Just got to work and don't have any resources with me. Ridden a bike now for a cumulative time of about 6 months, a YZF600R. I was out on Saturday and on the way back it started revving instantly high after switching up to 3/4/5 after applying even a small amount of throttle, way higher than normal. This was while I was on my way home and I was too tired to check about it when I got in. It's still doing it at the minute. When I had the bike in for a service last year I mentioned to the guy that it felt a bit like an on/off switch, loads of play and then a miniscule amount of lever action to engage it. Time for a new clutch cable? Or maybe just an oil change? I can't actually pinpoint what I think it is. The clutch cable slackening and needing replacing would have the opposite effect, as in, applying earlier instead of a delay. What happens is I'll pull away and first and second are fine. I'll switch up into third and it will accellerate normally and then suddenly jump up 3-4k but with no increase in actual power, which says to me that the clutch plates are slipping, almost like I'm bringing the clutch in. I'll come off the throttle and roll it back on and it'll be just fine. kcer fucked around with this message at 12:16 on Mar 2, 2009 |
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Mar 2, 2009 10:12
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Haha no I can't imagine so. This only flared up on Saturday, never had it before. Its last oil change was just before I bought it and if I stick to the milage recommendation I've still got a bit of time before it needs another change. I probably shouldn't be riding it atm either, right?
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Mar 2, 2009 15:13
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Help my mechanically challenged mind get around this. My clutch is slipping in 3rd/4th causing over-revving and no acceleration, and I've been told it could be fixed by adjusting the clutch cable, because since it's new it may have slackened. I didn't get how they came to that conclusion, because if the clutch cable has stretched, that means there's more play in the cable and thus the clutch should be engaged sooner rather than not applying fully. Basically, how would a slackening clutch cable end up causing the clutch to not engage properly? According to my Haynes manual this means the clutch doesn't have enough freeplay (too tight?), the plates are worn (they shouldn't be), clutch springs have weakened (they decided to weaken suddenly?) and various problems with the housing, which I massively doubt is the problem. kcer fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Mar 6, 2009 |
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Mar 6, 2009 18:57
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Z3n posted:Clutch info Yeah that made perfect sense. Since I've had the bike the clutch has always been a bit iffy. I know the friction zone is that much smaller than it is in a car, but it felt miniscule on mine. I had the clutch adjusted a few months ago just so I knew it had been professionally reset and adjusted. It had the required amount of play, but it just clicked to me that I've not actually checked it myself for a while. I've just been down, expecting the usually 1-2cm of totally free, no-resistance at all movement it's always had, only now I can feel resistance immediately. I'll adjust it tomorrow and see how it goes, even though the roads are layered with a horrible coat of salt. Thanks for that.
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Mar 7, 2009 00:25
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How do you get into track days? I'm still a couple of years off actually having the balls to do one, but it's something I'd like to do at one point. Is it really as simple as just booking a spot and turning up? Do they care much about skill? I have have a friend of a friend who ended up needing 2 instructors to get her around the track safely, what's the deal with instructors? What sort of rules apply when you're on the track? How confident of a rider were you when you first did one?
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Mar 10, 2009 11:55
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pr0zac posted:Don't wait a couple years. I went to my first one on a GS500 6 months after I started riding and had a blast. Assuming you are comfortable enough on a bike to ride around other people without freaking out or parking it in the turns (and even then, you won't be alone) you'll be fine in C group. Z3n posted:I think it's probably worthwhile to start a thread about trackdays. I'll do that and try to address all of the basic questions/etc. Thanks! Edit: Fixed my clutch issue, so thanks for the help there. Took a couple of runs out to get it adjusted properly. Next issue is a hole in the exhaust somewhere. I was out today and it suddenly got loud as hell. I was wearing ear buds and it was way louder than normal, making a much more raw popping sound compared to it's usually nice snappy-purr. I've given it a look over and it's not immediately obvious where it's from, any tips on how to find it? kcer fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Mar 10, 2009 |
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Mar 10, 2009 19:30
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How did that happen exactly?
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Mar 11, 2009 10:42
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What would you attribute a loud single clack noise to while changing gear? This happened today while I shifted up, and since it's an autonomous reaction I couldn't recall if I'd just done a bad shift. I've never heard it before. I swear, if this the start of another issue 
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Mar 13, 2009 19:49
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Thanks for the replies. Why would slipping relate to it? Edit: \/ Ah, thanks 
kcer fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Mar 14, 2009 |
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Mar 13, 2009 23:40
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:19 |
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Finally found time to have the clutch looked at properly. He's determined it needs to be replaced by starting it up, revving it quite high and letting the clutch out slowly. I'm not familiar with what he was doing, but I assumed he was looking for a gradual application of power forcing the front down, but instead it would get to a point where it would just grab and jolt the bike forward. So the way I understand it, the plates are worn to the point that they'll slip and slip and slip and then just eventually grab, which may explain why its always felt a bit like an on off switch to me. Am I looking at this correctly?
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Apr 3, 2009 11:19
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