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greg_graffin posted:It looks like second gear, throttle, rear brake, friction zone and practice is the only way I'm going to get comfortable with this on what I'm riding now. Thanks for setting me straight. don't try to pull away in second, you'd have to slip the poo poo out of the clutch to get moving. practice your throttle vs clutch control and modulate the clutch to keep the revs up greg_graffin posted:That's what I meant. Why does it always have to rain when I really, really want to ride? try to get a rain jacket with a detachable hood though, the roll up ones are uncomfortable on your neck with a helmet on and a hood flapping around behind your head is really annoying echomadman fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Oct 17, 2008 |
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Oct 17, 2008 18:37
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Orange Someone posted:Woah, middle and ring feels really wierd. I do first and middle on the brake and ring and little on the throttle when I have to. I've had far too much practise finessing brake and throttle at the same time, my bike loving hates starting in the rain and will stall when pulling away idle if the engine is cold and it's raining so I have to keep at least some power on whilst clutched in and braked.
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Oct 20, 2008 23:53
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Coredump posted:Does anyone have a preferred brand for steel brake lines for their motorcycles? What about hand guards, anyone got a favorite? I've put Hel, earls and melvin stainless lines on various bikes of mine and friends. they're all pretty much the same. Hel have the nicest stickers, if that makes a difference
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Oct 22, 2008 00:47
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Oldsmobile posted:Well, just something around town that will get me around on the cheap. 250cc Aprilias are 6500 euros, and a used one even cheaper. Those have like 19hp or something along those lines. Sounds pretty good to me. I'm not really looking to go fast, just forward. a 250cc aprilla (assuming you mean the rs250) will make anything from 50-70hp depending on how tuned it is and weighs gently caress all, not a good beginners bike, deceptively fast and too pretty to be smashed up in noob accidents
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Oct 27, 2008 18:03
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LOLLERZ posted:2004 Ninja EX500 most likely carb icing, you can get fuel additives that help prevent it, if your bike has carb heaters fitted check that they're working.
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Oct 27, 2008 18:14
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chryst posted:Is there any way to get more power out of the charging system? I installed some heated grips, and they work pretty well at above ~2500 rpm. The problem is that they have some battery-saving circuit that cuts them off when the voltage drops below 11.5v, which it does at idle. So any time I stop for a light, the heat shuts off. Turning it on again means holding the on button for like 3 seconds, and then pressing it 3 more times to get the setting to 100%. Which is kind of a pain. a relay will work fine in your case, but if you're at the limit of what your bike can supply switching to LED tail lights and indicators can free up a few watts. Whoa. Wife Turds posted:If you're late for work you can give it more throttle when starting before you let out the clutch and let the clutch slip more as you release or ride it for a minute or so with it choked, but neither are particularly good for the bike. riding with the choke on isn't great for the bike, excess fuel will wash lubricating oil off the cylinders and accelerate wear, i don't think you'd notice it for a long time buy why risk it, however slipping the clutch isn't harmful, its designed to slip. if the bike is slow to warm up a jet kit or even a bit of fiddling with the pilots could help. echomadman fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Oct 30, 2008 |
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Oct 30, 2008 19:47
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TheFonz posted:I own a 2006 Suzuki SV650S that I'm breaking down for winter storage. I've taking it all apart as I've got some upgrades to put on it(Gixxer rear Shock, power commander, single headlight/fairing delete). Anway I took the tank off, put it up on rearstands, turned the kill switch off and cranked the starter for about 3 seconds to get some oil on the cylinder walls. I then pulled the top of my air box off and pulled the filter and crankcase breather filter. As soon as I pulled the filter I noticed some white frothy poo poo on the bottom of the crankcase breather filter. done any short rides in cold weather lately? condensation from inside the engine cases will emulsify with oil and make that milkshake poo poo, if the engine doesn't get up to full temp and stay there for a while it doesn't boil off, my SV's filler cap is always milky these cold mornings because i only have a 4 mile commute now, if i take the bike out and roast it for 20 mins all that poo poo disappears
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Oct 31, 2008 19:56
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QnoisX posted:So....new question. Let's say that you're a dumb rear end and dump your bike over on the gravel at the start of your drive way. What's the best way to fix the paint on your fairings? don't fix them for a while, it hurts twice as much to get a respray and ding it up again a few days later. once you're sure your noob mistakes are out of your system then get them fixed up.
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Nov 2, 2008 17:59
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AhhYes posted:I have a 2005 Ducati Monster 620. I changed the oil just under 1000 miles ago. like i posted earlier for someones SV650, its probably this, seeing as the monster is air-cooled so there's no head gasket to fail and leak coolant into the oil. echomadman posted:done any short rides in cold weather lately? condensation from inside the engine cases will emulsify with oil and make that milkshake poo poo, if the engine doesn't get up to full temp and stay there for a while it doesn't boil off, my SV's filler cap is always milky these cold mornings because i only have a 4 mile commute now, if i take the bike out and roast it for 20 mins all that poo poo disappears
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Nov 5, 2008 19:21
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Kyon posted:I've been riding for about 4 months now and since I started getting a little more aggressive with my riding I've noticed that the rear end of my bike tends to get a little wiggly when I brake hard before a corner. any of these things could be causing it, give a bit more info on the general state of your bikie
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Nov 7, 2008 19:39
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QnoisX posted:Okay, I worked on that while riding today. I'll have to admit that if I go with one shift every 10 mph or so it does make accelerating easier and faster. I tooled around town a bit in third and fourth. Oh and one shift every 10 mph is around 6k rpm at each shift. I could hold out longer I guess. I'll have to mess around with it and experiment. The bike is much louder if you keep it at high rpms all the time, but it's still much quieter than most bikes I've seen. I met a guy on an R6 today while fueling up and his bike was loud as gently caress. You need to rev the gently caress out of that bike, plain and simple, bang it off the limiter a few times to see how much you can rev it, i think you'll be surprised. i've never ridden a ninja 250 but my old bandit 250 (inline 4 not a twin) redlined at 17k, i imagine the ninja redlines at about 14k, so you should be shifting between 10 and 12k. adjust down as appropriate. edit, thats for hard acceleration/fun. just pootleing around in traffic shift whenever as long as you're not lugging the engine. more edit: here's what my bandit sounded like(not mine in the video), i miss that bike http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYGxCwvrkSo&feature=related echomadman fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Nov 10, 2008 |
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Nov 10, 2008 19:43
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Spartak posted:How do people handle switching to reserve while in motion? i got into the habit of shutting off the petcock on my f650 as it has a leaky float. took a few days before the habit of switching it back on became ingrained in me. as it turns out there's enough fuel in the bowls to get me about 500 metres away from work and about halfway round a really busy roundabout before it starts lurching. not fun. i just got accustomed to reaching down and flipping it over while driving.
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Nov 16, 2008 12:06
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Atomic Hotdog posted:I have a question of great concern, but I'm not sure if I can explain it in a clear way..
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Nov 19, 2008 19:36
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goku chewbacca posted:Anybody tried driving a heavy bike up and down stairs? I'd like to get my '78 GS1000 into my basement under its own power without breaking the stairs. Handle bars scrapes and wall damage are a non issue. Any thoughts about wood stairs supporting a 500lb+ bike? post a pic of these stairs, i've seen very sturdy wooden stairs and really poo poo ones. getting it in should be easy enough, might want to make up a ramp out of planks for getting it out. edit: i have seen bikes go up and down wooden stairs, a bike shop in a city near here has an upstairs showroom, the have a permanent ramp up the centre of the stairs (its a u shaped steel channel like a bike trailer would have) they drive all kinds of bikes up there. if you cant drive it out you could always winch it up a ramp. echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 19, 2008 20:22
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rope kid posted:Is there a name for the things that are... well, they're sort of like gas I.V.s for running carbed bikes with the fuel tank off. It's just an elevated container of gasoline with x lines running to the carbs. I know I've seen them before, but I can't find them now.  i used a syringe a few times, now i have a tank off an old genny-welder that has a handy petcock on it
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Dec 18, 2008 22:00
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Twenty-Seven posted:Out of curiosity, what kind of camera setup do those guys who make all those goofy motorcycle video blog things use? How much does that sort of thing run? I tried to google it myself but did a really bad job I guess and didn't find anything that looked right. http://helmetcameracentral.com/2006/11/06/oregon-scientific-atc2k-atc-2000-helmet-camera/ I have one of those, or a similar model anyway, its at a mates house at the moment, its simple, robust and easy to mount anywhere, but the mic is poo poo(although my sv is retardedly loud), and the video quality is so-so. videos come out like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lf10A5kp__E
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Jan 13, 2009 20:33
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Bean_ posted:Bike is a 1999ish Tomos TTLX, Two Stroke, 50cc moped. have you checked upstream from the carb? poo poo in the fuel tank maybe
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Jan 13, 2009 23:48
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) and put it back together. Same issue :fist:.
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pr0zac posted:So a friend of mine lost my DRZ's keys. Whats the best solution to this problem and how much can I expect it to cost him? I replaced the locks on my f650 for about €100 after the ignition was smashed by a junkie trying to rob it, its not a hard job, took about 2 hours all together from start to finish
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Jan 25, 2009 12:52
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Jack the Smack posted:On my sister's SV 650-S 2005, it idles lower than normal. Inconsistently it will start idling too low and turn off. When riding around, at a constant speed and throttle being held in one position, the bike will randomly lurch forward once, as if I just gave it more throttle, then maybe later it will die down randomly as if I dropped the throttle a bit. Last night I rode it in the rain, and this morning it's having all these problems. front plug is wet, theres info on how to fix it in the sv650 thread
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Feb 7, 2009 21:37
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ail posted:Mother loving rain. My "waterproof" backpack is damp as hell, ruined a notebook. My "waterproof" firstgear jacket got water in the interior pocket, almost breaking my cellphone. My "waterproof" gloves got water inside them and I couldn't feel my hand for the last 10 miles. That last one is mostly a function of a dumb rear end glove design. Gauntlet over jacket means water trickles down the jacket into the glove. Ugh. i usually put expensive electronics into ziplock bags inside the rucksack for added security but i've yet to find water in the bag after riding in the rain http://www.kriega.com/pages_uk/r35/R35frameset.html edit: its also pretty much the best backpack for riding i've ever had, the 4 point harness straps are in a different league to normal rucksacks in terms of ease of use and load distribution. echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 18, 2009 |
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Feb 18, 2009 20:45
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:Okay, so here's my situation right now in brief: this just happened to me too, new R/R (well an old one pulled off a gsxr400) sorted it, although i have a misfire in one cylinder when it heats up aswell, possibly a faulty coil. need to fix that asap, sick of driving the car
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Mar 13, 2009 21:21
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Ola posted:Some people (internet anecdotes ahoy!) have put thousands of miles on plugged tires. I was looking into my sorry remains of rear wheel threads the other day, seems like mine has a plug too. 5000 miles since I bought it. my mate ran his rear down to the cords with two rope plugs in it, maybe 8000 miles. i had one in my last rear tyre for a year (got a puncture a day or two after fitting the tyre.) from personal and anecdotal experience they're fine.
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Apr 17, 2009 18:52
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chryst posted:If I bought an exhaust where the pipes angle upward, would I need to be concerned about riding in the rain? seriously? of course not. even if it did manage to get water in there while the bike was parked, as soon as you start the engine it'd fountain out immediately. while the engine is running nothing is going to go up your exhaust. Z3n posted:But jesus, that exhaust made it sound horrible. Like a toy. Maybe it's just the video quality, but my god. i find most cameras simply cant capture the noise of an sv exhaust properly. echomadman fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Apr 29, 2009 |
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Apr 29, 2009 18:57
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[[ Please wait, retrieving post quote... ]] blindjoe posted:I have a KLR enduro that needs new tires. I have ordered the tires and new tubes, but am wondering if people change dirt bike tires themselves? I read the manual, and it shows a bead breaker tool and some rim protectors with screwdrivers. Would it be like changing the tire on a car (possible, but hard and sketchy) or like changing a tire on a bicycle? i've done front and rear tyres on my BMW f650, its easy, just make sure the new tyre is warmed up if its cold weather/cold workshop. i kept mine in the hotpress(airing cupboard? I don't know what Americans call it) overnight before doing it. get proper tyre irons though, screwdrivers will make it a lot harder, i have one long one and one short one, but an extra long one would make it a lot easier. here is an excellent video http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977 edit, he keeps talking about ru-glide in that vid, i don't know what the gently caress that is, but i suspect someone's making a fortune selling soapy water in spray bottles as that's all you need. echomadman fucked around with this message at 19:33 on May 28, 2009 |
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May 28, 2009 19:28
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Ola posted:How do they take over from the damper rod when it's otherwise unmodified? I don't understand those diagrams at all, poo poo is just flowing up and down. what size are your forks? i have a pair of racetech emulators from an sv if they're any good to you edit: just saw you said 37mm, so mine are no good, sorry
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Jun 3, 2009 23:57
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AncientTV posted:When the sprocket was off the wheel, the black section that the bolts are anchored to seemed pretty well sealed on there. hit it with a rubber mallet and it'll come off
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Jul 3, 2009 23:44
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check that the HT lead hasn't corroded where it goes into the spark plug boot. if it has just cut it back an inch and screw the boot back on and see if that helps. I had a very similar problem on my old Suzuki Bandit. if it was a coil problem you'd have lost cylinders 1 and 4
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Jul 8, 2009 19:26
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Orange Someone posted:My friend's 1993 Honda CB400 Super Four had a problem with the old battery not charging. I reckoned it was either because of a dodgy battery, not being giving enough time to charge (he liked starting it up in the garage since he cannae ride it atm) or the charging system being faulty. The r/r is probably hosed, check the stator output and resistance, and do a diode test on the r/r. Its unlikely to be the stator so your best bet is to ring round bike breakers or trawl ebay for a new r/r. Pretty much any honda (or suzuki or yamaha) r/r that has 5 wires will do, the only difference will be the connector blocks and the mounting holes.
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Aug 16, 2009 12:20
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the walkin dude posted:I've got experience with flat tires on cars, but not on a motorcycle. What should I do? They're Pirelli Sport Demons and look to be in healthy shape otherwise on this used Ninja which I just bought last week. reinflate the tyre and put some soapy water on it to locate the leak. don't forget to check that its not a valve problem. if it is leaking there just plug it and ride on, it'll be fine. edit, also bummer on a front wheel puncture, they're hard to get compared to rear wheel ones.
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Sep 7, 2009 19:15
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Orange Someone posted:I suppose my question ought to have been, why is it overcharging? But thanks regulator is not working and putting way too much voltage into the battery at high revs. common fault on the superfours. most people i know replace the with one of these http://www.electrosport.com/street/regulator-rectifiers.php there's a handy electrical troubleshooting guide on the site too http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center.php
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Oct 21, 2009 13:35
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Orange Someone posted:Hmm, now to work out which CB400 it is. None of those are late enough, and the closest is the CB400 CB-1, which was the previous model. Common enough problem, seeing as the bike is an import from Japan. We are in the UK, and that's a US website, but if I know what part I'm looking for, it's going to help loads.
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Oct 26, 2009 21:37
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dietcokefiend posted:Yea I could drive one of my two cars, but what the hell is the fun in that? SV's are no fun in ice, too much engine braking. I was commuting to work in icy weather last winter and it sucked, like plasticsun said throttle control is a must, getting on the gas too hard or chopping the throttle shut can break the rear loose. Braking is all about serious forward thinking, if you have to emergency brake you're going for a slide. I was using really light front brake and relying more on the rear brake and engine braking combined with clutch modulation to slow down. I remember going sideways down the road one morning, straight towards a T junction and praying there was no traffic coming along the main road after having to brake hard to avoid some oblivious schoolkids who decided to cross the road right in front of me. luckily I was going slowly to begin with so I just held the slide till I came to a complete stop and puttered off again slowly. Once the roads were gritted it was ok but they only grit main roads here, so smaller backroads and roads around housing estates are treacherous. I fell once in the yard at work on a completely innocuous looking bit of tarmac that had black ice on it, picking a bike up when you have barely enough traction to stand is the loving worst.
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Nov 17, 2009 02:37
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:and when I try to use the screw extractor I turn it clockwise (it's reverse threaded). turn it anticlockwise
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Jan 19, 2010 23:25
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MrZig posted:Brilliant blue spark out of both coils. If I modulate the throttle enough, I can hear when it 'catches' and then it takes off. Definitely not firing well when cold. my old bandit 250 used to drop a cylinder in the cold/wet because the ht leads insulation had broken down and condensation on it allowed the spark to ground out instead of firing the plug. at higher rpm/warmer temps it worked fine.
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Feb 28, 2010 01:46
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the electrolytic capacitors on the b400 ecus are known to fail, its tricky but they can be replaced, is yours a vvt(red engine top) model or a normal one? I have an ecu from a vvt lying around if you want it. i may also be able to find a gsxr400 ecu which should drop in. Also the orings on the pilot screws in the carbs tend to go, and they are really hard to find these days.
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Feb 28, 2010 13:58
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SuicidalSmurf posted:I've been a long time lurker in CA and am finally seriously looking at getting a bike. There's someone locally selling a 91 gsf400 bandit with 18k miles for $1000. He had it listed last week for $1400, but the ad says he tried cleaning the carbs and now it won't start. Assuming no other issues with the bike, could someone with no real wrenching experience realistically expect to get the bike running again? Part of me says for a $1000 bike its worth the gamble, the other half says that if it was an easy fix the seller would take care of it for another $400. id avoid it, those carbs are bastards and you dont want that heartache for your first bike. the b400 is a really nice looking bike but parts are hard to get these days. apart from carb issues the cdi fails a lot on them.
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Apr 11, 2010 22:29
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:How badly did I gently caress myself here?
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May 5, 2010 13:04
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infraboy posted:Speaking of this what the hell was Honda doing for 10+ years making bikes with lovely rear end regulator/rectifiers? bikes in general have lovely r/r's its only recently that decent MOSFET ones have become the norm.
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May 13, 2010 06:23
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Oh yeah. It's a 1998 Honda CBR 600 f3. I don't own a voltmeter, but I guess I should invest. What am I looking for when I examine the voltage over the battery? http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php
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May 15, 2010 19:03
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Weinertron posted:So, I rode through hurricane rains today. Both the bike and me got incredibly soaked. Anyway, after going through a massive puddle that covered both me and my 2001 SV650 in a massive splash, it proceeded to refuse to idle until it stopped raining. Now it's back to idling fine, but I burned so much gas having to restart it, give it some throttle at stops, or just put on the choke to keep it going while it was soaked. SV's drop the front cylinder a lot in heavy rain, making the bike a 322.5cc single. Check that your front spark plug drain hole is clear and give the wiring a spray with a water dispersant/coat of silicone. a fenda extenda or a diy spray shield just under the radiator will help
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Jun 30, 2010 12:04
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