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Jabs posted:Plenty of Fuel Injected bikes will have a fuel pump. my carbed sv has a fuel pump
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Jul 1, 2010 21:56
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-Inu- posted:RPM's seem to be moot, but it does do it less above 60mph or so. It still happens, but it's not as bad as at low speeds. I just don't get why it doesn't happen with the bike in neutral. By "in neutral" do you mean when you're coasting with the clutch in or do you have to actually shift into neutral? When you get on the gas you're unweighting the front enough (either by compressing the back shock or because you've lost damping the front) which is interacting with the geometry of the bike causing it to weave. check your front fork seals, rear shock and headstock bearings. also you might have a badly worn front tyre, it may not be seem too worn down but uneven wear like cupping can cause funny handling issues.
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Jul 6, 2010 13:49
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chryst posted:She's like 135lb, which just seems like a lot of weight to add to a 400lb bike, I guess. The manual is pretty light on passenger setup. The tire sticker even specifies the same pressure for 2-up. Guess I'm good to go. Up the rear (and front if possible) suspension preload a bit if you're carrying a passenger daily
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Jul 9, 2010 18:36
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makka-setan posted:If the bike's charging system does not charge, how far can you safely ride on just the battery? I'll might have to wait a week or two for a new stator and/or rectifier and the weather is just too good to keep the bike in the garage. the first time, maybe 10 miles, charge it again overnight maybe about the same then next few times its shorter and shorter as your battery self destructs, if you ride fast its shorter, if you indicate it gets shorter, if you brake it gets shorter, if its cold its shorter, if you want to use your headlight its halved. i know this because i went through about 5 R/Rs and one battery last year till i finally changed out my loom to get rid of the mystery intermittent short. edit: i must point out that its an SV which makes its starter motor work awfully hard and it was winter so the cold really didnt help the battery also i didnt buy 5 R/Rs i just cannibalised all the laid up bikes that i and my friends own. and if you are replacing your R/R get one of these http://www.roadstercycle.com/Vmax%20charging%20system%20repair.htm echomadman fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jul 11, 2010 |
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Jul 11, 2010 22:55
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Weinertron posted:I've been riding for 3 months, and I finally got so busy that I went 5 days without riding. When I came back, my SV650 has nothing happen when I put the key to on. This was a bad surprise as I was planning to commute on it today, and left me late to work. replied to your post in the other thread, but that sounds like you left it in park, or that your battery is failing. charge it up and see how it goes. read the pdfs i linked to in the other thread and do the checks, its pretty fast to do them on an sv.
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Jul 14, 2010 18:23
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Weinertron posted:Well, I'm an idiot with a broken electrical system. I just charged up my second battery, swapped it in, and nothing happens when I turn the ignition to on. I went ahead and checked all the fuses and they're good. What are the odds that the key cylinder would fail on an SV650? How easy are these things to hotwire if I want to hotwire it and ride it to the dealer to pay someone to fix it? did you check the main fuse? its not in the block under the seat, its further down behind the black trim panel under s transparent green plastic cover (on the curveys) i think its under the riders seat on the pointys
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Jul 17, 2010 13:44
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Alastor posted:I've never had one this advanced quote:on the cutting edge of technology while sporting that appreciation for history. I've read the specs on that bike a couple of times now and i don't see cutting edge or advanced anywhere.I know it has EFI but apart from thats its just an air cooled v-twin. In terms of wrenching on it it'll be mostly the same as any other bike, if anything efi bikes are probably less hassle than carbed bikes. Get a clymer/factory manual and get stuck in.
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Jul 25, 2010 13:23
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Ola posted:20 days left of license suspension, might as well do the loving fork seals. Don't rush into drilling it, get a set of torx head drivers, hammer in the one thats a good tight fit and hit it with an impact driver. I had this exact problem on my bandit.
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Jul 25, 2010 21:10
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Rontalvos posted:I'm 5'10" and about 160lbs and I feel as though riding into a headwind at 65mph on the freeway is going to blow me off the back of the bike, or at least force me to recline over the tail, unless I keep a hard grip and literally hold my torso upright using the handlebars. Like Ola said lower bars and a screen will help, but you should be holding yourself on the bike with your knees, back and ab muscles, sounds like you're death gripping the bars which makes a bike feel terribly unstable. Your hand grip on the bars should be as light as holding a pack of crisps without crushing them. i've ridden naked bikes up to around 130mph, above 70 you can just lean forward and the wind blast holds your weight
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Aug 1, 2010 13:10
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Tornhelm posted:Is it that much of a problem if the bike stalls while idling in first? My new bike has done it ever since I bought it, so I've just adapted to keeping the clutch at least partially in (came from a CT-110 which has an automatic centrifugal clutch instead) or shifting it into neutral.  read through that sentence again, keep in mind that normal motorbike clutches are not centrifugal edit: do you mean while moving really slowly, its normal to slip the clutch a bit at walking speeds but if you're stopped the clutch has to be in or the bike has to be in neutral? echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Sep 25, 2010 |
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Sep 24, 2010 13:04
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video of said burnout? Wheel bearings are easy if you change them before they fail catastrophically,37k miles is about typical from my experience, my SV needed rear bearings at 36, my buddys FZ6 at about 40k. There's probably a bearing in the sprocket carrier thats needs to be replaced too. I usually just pick up the appropriate bearings in the local plant machinery spares place, as they're about 50% cheaper than bike shops for the exact same bearings.
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Sep 26, 2010 12:09
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SlightlyMadman posted:I've got a 2009 Bonneville, and I've been noticing ever since I got it that sometimes when I shift from 2nd to 1st there's a fairly pronounced sort of "kerchunk" I can both hear and feel with my foot. I just assumed that was it passing through neutral but wondered why it only happened sometimes (other times, I can still feel it pass through neutral but not nearly as much). That just sounds like your clutch isnt fully disengaging, the transition from 1st-2nd and 2nd to 1st is the one that usually involves the biggest difference in engine speed so its much more noticable than changing between other gears
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Oct 1, 2010 17:58
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cloudstrife2993 posted:I have an issue with my xv750:
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Oct 12, 2010 01:57
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Tadhg posted:I'll give this a try this weekend and see how it pans out. After doing some reading I've seen that some penetrating oil shot through the spark plug holes can help if it's only mildly stuck, as well as a long lever. pour some diesel into the cylinders via the spark plug holes and let it sit for a day then try to turn over the engine with a ratchet and socket like ola suggested or a quick tap of the starter button (leave the plugs out)
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Oct 14, 2010 20:24
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:Do any of you guys have a trick for unfreezing a motorcycle ignition? I was toying with the idea of slightly heating my key up with a lighter, but I figured I would ask here before I started torching anything. I've had to do this a few times, but don't redden the key, heat it up till its just slightly too hot to touch, pop it in, leave it for a few seconds, take it out, heat it again, do this a few times before you try to turn it. Its a last resort though, you can buy small cans of aerosol de-icer specifically for defrosting locks and keep it in your backpack.
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Feb 3, 2011 14:04
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I bought a '91 Bandit 400 last summer and rode it occasionally. I've had a blast with it, but I have a problem with how loud its muffler is. Have you more pics of that bandit? i think i recognise it from the old Banditalley forums. Id advise you to repack the exhaust, all you have to do is drill out those rivets on the ends and take off the end caps. I did on my SV and it made a big difference. If thats not enough then get a dB killer insert. I really cant stress enough that if this bike is running ok (apart from being loud) then leave the carbs the gently caress alone.
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Feb 23, 2011 13:06
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-Inu- posted:If you are chased by a dog: Where's the "Flick Killswitch off for a second then on again" option
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Mar 20, 2011 23:38
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A Duck! posted:The S2R 1000 was 15T, 42T stock. I was thinking about 14T, 44T. http://www.gearingcommander.com/ going down a tooth in front (or up in the back) helps with snatchy FI because it means you're turning a higher rpm for a given speed and usually all the glitchyness is at small throttle openings/low rpms. My SV is much nicer in traffic with -1 +1 gearing, you can crawl along in traffic with way less clutch slipping.
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Mar 29, 2011 17:49
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Ola posted:Wow is that PVC pipe? Looks like steel to me
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Apr 28, 2011 17:15
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the walkin dude posted:My 2000 SV650's acting up again with the battery. I bought a new battery recently because I suspected the 3 year old battery was going bad. The bike was fine for a few days then yesterday the gf went out to the bike and it refused to start and output a "NNNN" noise. Just like it did with the old battery - fine for an approximate week, then dies. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf If you cant get the gsxr one from that guy (it wont be any better than the stock one, just newer) get a Mosfet one, this guy sells nice kits with good connectors and all the wire you'll need http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm
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Jun 11, 2011 11:42
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It is that, he just called it a quick turn throttle, that site seems to be mostly dirtbikes but they're available for a lot of bikes. sometimes you can use one from a different model. R6 tubes are common swaps for sv650s
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Aug 25, 2011 13:04
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Ola posted:You know those hush kits you can get for helmets? It's some sort of stretchy fabric which closes the space around the bottom of the helmet and kills 90% of the noise. Do they work with flip ups? probably until you try to flip it up, but any one i ever looked at said they didn't work on the packet
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Nov 26, 2011 22:30
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thylacine posted:The helmet I have fits, let me be more specific. I'd like - modular and drop down sun-shade + good fog protection because I wear glasses. And bonus if there is some kind of Bluetooth stereo link. I just ordered a Shark Vision-R http://www.motocentral.co.uk/Shark-Vision-R-Syntic-Matt-Black-Silver-Anthracite_AZZ55.aspx I tried one on at a bike show and it was very comfortable, and all the reviews say they're quiet and excellent for not fogging up. They also have little removable inserts in the temples so you can wear glasses without the helmet crushing them into your head. My old Caberg was a nightmare for this to the point that i had to get new glasses, and i had to test them in the shop with my helmet on. That got me some odd looks. Modular helmets arent worth it unless you spend a lot of money (i assume as the two cheap ones i've had sucked) edit: there is also an optional bluetooth insert for these helmets but its out of my price range so i dont know a whole lot about it.
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Jan 23, 2012 22:54
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is there any chance someone could point me to a guide or something for tuning the DRZ suspension? I've been searching the web for a little while and haven't come up with any information for someone my weight on an SM. I'm about 200 lbs without gear and probably 210-215 with it. Eventually I'll have the forks and rear shock resprung for my weight but for now I'm just trying to get it set up as best I can. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_70YesH_87w is an ok guide, have a look on http://drz400uk.org/ too there are loads of thread about swapping the rear spring and settin gup the bike. edit, i ride a mile or so of a gravel road every day on a pretty bald set of dunlops, you should be fine on dirt/gravel with the bridgestones as long as its not mucky, just expect the bike to be wiggling under you
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Feb 16, 2012 20:11
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Did DRZ's come stock with a Renthal bar? Mine has a Fatboy bar and I don't know if it was stock or if it was added on by the PO. i have an 07 DRZ aswell and it has fatbars on it.
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Feb 17, 2012 19:02
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Fiendish Dr. Wu posted:2003 Ducati Monster 800Sie probably a diy anti rattle kludge, but the could be from under your seat or tank.
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Mar 3, 2012 01:55
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f_c_ posted:I got a 75 Honda GL1000 for a little project bike. It has 3" Jardine pipes on it with no baffles and is horribly loud and obnoxious sounding. I want to try making my own baffles, something along the lines of this sketch and then wrap it with muffler packing I would use some sort of mesh for the tube rather than breaking your balls drilling holes. You could run one or two thin strips of steel between the caps for bracing, roll the mesh around a pipe of the right diameter to form the tube, then tack it to the strips in a few places along the length of the baffle or something like this and you probably wouldn't need the strips http://www.metalsheets.co.uk/pages/perforated-stainless-steel-sheets echomadman fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Mar 5, 2012 |
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Mar 5, 2012 23:34
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I think the accepted consensus that the closest thing in the EU to seafoams mystery blend of herbs and spices was Subaru upper engine cleaner, which I have never been able to lay my hands on either.
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Mar 11, 2012 00:44
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slidebite posted:Old Helmets that you no longer use but never crashed: I prefer this method of disposal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxMQBIv97y8
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Mar 15, 2012 09:33
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Sagebrush posted:I decided to entirely remove my electric starter and associated hardware. Now I have an unused pushbutton on my handlebar that closes a circuit carrying 12 volts at a couple of amps. What new, fun thing should I connect it to? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmaMNZTNEZY
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Mar 19, 2012 02:05
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I would like to propose that after a certain point, when a person is clearly not going to take the sound advice offered, we let them go their merry way and reap the comedy rewards. However, its important to do this without going too far in the opposite direction, say by overusing their name as a meme and constantly putting our I-told-you-so oars in to avoid creating another attention-seeking Obstinate-Defiant-Disorder having  spending egomaniac.Basically, let these people live their own idiotic lives, why are you all in such a hurry to keep them in the gene pool? edit: not specifically you fyallm, although you got my hopes up at first. echomadman fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 01:06
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Call it compassion, I don't like the idea of somebody dieing needlessly when a few stern words may change that. Especially considering how everybody here tried to talk to me before I went and acted like a tard. I'm having way more fun getting back into riding the proper way and I want other riders to experience the same. your custom title tells me you didn't listen either, you had to go and do it your way. I'm not saying don't give advice, just respect their right to make mistakes for themselves, maybe buy them a big red title if they've upset your sensibilities that much. they'll either wise up, or move along quietly after dumping a drunk girl off the back while doing a wheelie.
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Mar 21, 2012 01:47
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Gnaghi posted:I knew that pic was going to pop up. It's one year off from being my exact bike too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MshErFSt7SE This is what i'm afraid of every time i try a stoppie.
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Mar 25, 2012 13:47
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Ghost Cactus posted:Could I change the chain and sprockets on my F4i myself? Any special tools I'd need? The rear sprocket looks hooked, so I imagine the front one also is. And the chain is making a rattley racket more and more when I'm just pushing the bike around the garage. The chain has almost 20k miles on it, and I think the sprockets are original. One of these makes working on bikes a breeze even without a compressor. http://www.toolsmithonline.com/products/Kawasaki%E2%84%A2-12V-DC-Impact-Wrench.html not sure about that one but mine had crocodile clips to hook it to the bike battery like this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPACT-GUN-12V-RAC-wrench-kit-sockets-ratchet-torque-car-spare-wheel-caravan-/160657841263 that and a chain tool are all you need. if you have a grinder thats great but a hacksaw is just as good
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Apr 8, 2012 18:40
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the walkin dude posted:Grab a cheap multimeter from amazon, and we can help you use it. Charge up your battery in the meanwhile with a battery tender. there should be some sort of forums bot that posts this pdf whenever someone says "dead battery" or "rectifier" http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf edit: also if your R/R is dead don't bother buying an oem replacement, these mosfet ones are way better http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm Walking Dude i'd get one and fit it now rather than wait for the stock one to go echomadman fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 18:06
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Meister Otter posted:Wandered back over there and tried to get it to turn over and it's all locked up. Any idea on how much it would cost to fix that thing? pour some diesel down the spark plug hole and leave it for a day or two then try to turn it over again. or get the honda, but that dt150 looks sweet. actually just get them both.
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Apr 12, 2012 22:34
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KozmoNaut posted:There have been some rumblings in the EU about making ABS mandatory on all new bikes, just as ABS and now ESP is on all new cars. It'd have to be a fail-safe system, so non-ABS would only be a fuse pull away
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Apr 18, 2012 19:30
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Care to suggest some reading? I'm more than willing to learn about this stuff http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm and the electrosportpdf should be plenty, there really isn't much to bike electrics
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Apr 19, 2012 18:49
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the walkin dude posted:The gf's SV, which clearly fits that diagram: Yes when you press down the shift lever the gear selector should turn clockwise.
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May 3, 2012 00:38
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the walkin dude posted:I fixed it! Back to shifting normalcy. That's something new for me. Thanks guys. As long as its turning the right way you can move it around a bit on the splines of the shaft to find the right height for you. edit: once you find it put a mark on the shaft and collar so you can line it up faster in future.
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May 3, 2012 01:11
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