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If you’re not concerned with getting high mileage the Rosso III is a fine choice IMO.
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Dec 31, 2021 19:56
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What can you get away with on tire sizing before you have to start making other changes? Is it basically always safe to go up or down 10 from OEM? Ratio seems fine but changing the width makes me worry I’d be messing with the tire’s profile unintentionally.
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Dec 31, 2021 21:44
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Slavvy posted:The key is to create a positive feedback loop where you improve your skill It's funny because last week I was riding in cold, wet weather (not raining, but roads wet, some streams running across). Not what I normally ride in and definitely outside my comfort zone. I thought "OK, it's cold and wet, so it's cooling down my tires, so just take it easy. But wait! By taking it easy I'm not getting heat into my tires" and was just a negative feedback loop. I even had to wave a car through, shameful. I thought, this is what Slaavy must mean when he talks about new riders on 600cc and 1000cc sports bikes, tip toeing their way down the road because they can't get the bike to work because they aren't creating big enough inputs for it, etc.
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Dec 31, 2021 23:08
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How often do you guys go practice in a parking lot? When I just started riding I would almost always go practice in a parking lot for ~15 minutes before heading out, or sometimes practice in a lot is all I would do, but as I got more experience and felt more comfortable I started going less. I still make the effort to go at least every couple months. I actually went yesterday to practice emergency braking as well as full lock turns with as much lean and speed as I could manage. The braking stuff was easy but doing the turns was way harder than I thought it would be. I haven't tried in probably over a year, and back then I didn't try to lean the bike over. I actually basically fell over within the first minute or two (bike didn't hit the ground but probably came within 6"). Here's about as good as I could manage after ~45 minutes. I was getting so dizzy and also apparently nauseous from my own exhaust fumes. As you add more lean the bike starts to fall over, so you have to add more speed, which starts to pull the front tire straight, so you have to add more steering and you want to take away throttle and so on. Definitely something to work on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRTgH5Ts7bk
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Jan 10, 2022 18:43
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Slavvy posted:Imo you did ok. If you want to regulate your speed in that kind of situation, use the clutch and rear brake, it's impossible to modulate the throttle finely enough in that situation as it's not anywhere near smooth enough even on a small bike. Every time you shut or roll off, two things happen: Normally in slow stuff I do slip the clutch a lot, but in this case I couldn't get it quite right (kept pulling in too much), so once I got the bike tracking I let the clutch out and used the rear brake only to help stabilize it. I was definitely focused on just making the turn as tight as possible whereas I probably should have started wider, got it super smooth, and tightened up from there. Here's a suspension/setup question: I am pretty sure my shock's rebound is too fast. At track when I am at "full lean" and I hit bumps, the rear often steps out. Not huge slides, but enough to take into consideration. The shock is non adjustable besides preload. I feel like if I added on a few turns of preload it would just make it worse. I'm going to get some better tires but I wonder if it would just mask the problem even more until it gets to a point where a slide wouldn't "self recover" because... uh, I don't know? The tire grip exceeds the suspension's road holding ability?
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Jan 11, 2022 21:40
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I think the biggest selling point for those tires is how cheap they are. I have them too. Not great but not really bad either. I’m going to get something else for my next set, though.
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Jan 20, 2022 21:47
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On those tires my front was done before the rear. You’re fairly close to the wear bar anyway but probably fine for another 1000.
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Feb 6, 2022 00:14
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My understanding is motorcycle tires are designed as a pair and intended to work together. That may be more important in the wet than the dry but you’d also want to consider the tires’ handling characteristics. I think the GPR-300 is fine for a low power bike riding in the slow group, which I assume you still are! I have done 6 track days on those tires and only once I started riding reasonably and consistently faster did I start running into problems. That’s said there’s no harm in swapping out to better tires. I have had the chance to ride on track on better tires and they are certainly, uh, better. I’m for sure putting different tires on my bike before my next track day. I’d also recommend you don’t focus too much on getting your knee down and instead focus on your vision, braking, and throttle. Find your braking marker and see if you can push it up like 1/4 to 1/2 a second each session.
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Feb 6, 2022 17:01
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For tire pressures I start with my usual cold and then immediately check it after each session. I also look at the tire and make sure the wear isn’t rough and uneven. This is bad wear. IIRC the pressure was 43psi when I took this picture  I dropped it down to maybe 36psi and 2 sessions later it looked a lot better (but not perfect).  IMO there is no “right” pressure. It will depend on a lot of things, namely how you are riding (both your pace and “style”), how hot it is, your bike setup, and so on. Basically this: Slavvy posted:Tyre pressures are dependant on your tyres, your bike, your weight, your setup, your lines, the track, the weather. If you think someone on the internet can give you the right answer, you'll be disappointed. Normal pressures at operating temp is the starting point that puts you in the right ballpark, the same way all those guides about setting preload sag are a starting point to put you in the right balllpark. Unless the guy is exactly the same size as you and has an identical bike and tyres, I think any talk of specifics is just a red flag that the person doesn't actually understand what's happening.
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Feb 6, 2022 21:26
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Those tires will probably square off even sooner FYI. $50 to drop off the bike and come back with new tires is well worth it. My Honda dealer charges mores than that if you bring in just wheels.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:27
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Russian Bear posted:We looked at several different options that they could order. Several michelins were out of stock; i think my other options were the dunlop q3+, but i think they have a similar life to the rosso 3's and are more expensive. I'm ok with shorter life if it makes for a fun riding tire.  Yeah I'm still deciding which tires to get. I was going to get Q3+ but they are indeed expensive. I'm surprised that Bridgestone RS10s are available in my size (110/70 & 150/60) and am kind of tempted to buy those, heh. Potentially overkill, but would be interesting to try a tire designed with track riding as an intended use.
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Feb 7, 2022 20:33
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Dog Case posted:You want presta valves on your bike because that's what the fancy bikes like what they ride on the tour of France use. Schrader valves are what they use on bikes for children or the poors This is probably it. My bike pump works with either, no adapters needed, and I don’t use pumps at gas stations near me because they are loving disgusting.
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Feb 11, 2022 01:00
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I’m considering putting rear sets on my bike because I am an idiot. The problem is you have to take out the swingarm pivot bolt. Can I just buy a second bolt, use it to push out the original bolt, swap one side, then put the original bolt back in, swap the other? Or is this a recipe for disaster? I don’t have a way to hoist the bike up. I can have someone lift the rear of the bike while I swap the bolts out to help reduce the weight. This is what the mounting looks like. They won't be this color!  
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Mar 13, 2022 20:42
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LimaBiker posted:Re: active noice canceling I think the efficacy will also be largely affected by whether or not the headphone is making a seal around the ear canal. Over-the-ear canceling headphones may not reduce noise as well as in-ear monitors. My girlfriend has OTE noise cancelling headphones which create a strong sense of pressure in my head/ear, while my AirPods, which are IEM IMO, do not. I would always wear proper hearing protection if it is a concern though.
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Mar 22, 2022 17:36
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Nah it makes sense, to me anyway. 1 + (-1) = 0, but I’m afraid that it actually equals 1.25 or something. I refer again to my girlfriend’s headphones which I find genuinely uncomfortable when noise cancelling is active. Also is the AirPod able to calculate and perfectly time the invert wave faster than the speed of sound for what must be like 0.3mm? Idk maybe.
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Mar 23, 2022 01:15
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Yeah clutchless downshifting is totally pointless IMO. Clutchless upshifting is fine because it's easy and more-or-less risk-free. If you watch any videos of racers putting in fast laps you may notice they use the clutch on their downshifts (if their bike isn't FBW). How did your track day go, by the way? I saw your post in the newbie thread but didn't follow up since it's not necessary newbie thread appropriate topic.
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Mar 24, 2022 02:00
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 I booked a track day for next month. Unfortunately the track is 250 miles away and since we’re cheapskates we’re going to drive down at like 1am and hope it’s not a terrible idea (don’t want to pay 2 days for the truck rental). Not sure how many I’ll be able to afford this year. There’s an Aprilia “Racers Days” at Laguna Seca I want to go to, but it’s $450  add in a truck/van rental plus gas and it’s probably $800 
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Mar 24, 2022 05:08
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The wiring has an ampacity limit as well. If you have a lead with a 7.5A fuse then I wouldn’t just swap in a 10A or 15A fuse without verifying the wire can support it. A fuse is basically just a wire that will burn up at a specified current to prevent the wiring from burning up and giving you a fun electrical fire. https://www.encorewire.com/products/tools-and-resources/calculators/wire-size-table.html Heated gear is a resistive load so I would just size the fuse at the max draw with maybe a little wiggle room but I am not an expert!
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Apr 6, 2022 17:33
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If you have inrush current (you shouldn’t), you use a time-delay fuse, not a bigger fuse. A 10A fuse seems reasonable to me.
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Apr 11, 2022 04:38
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LimaBiker posted:I haven't yet figured out if a DC clamp meter can also sense current direction. Probably it can. If it can, then it would tell you not only the current that's flowing but also whether the battery is charging or discharging. Every one I’ve ever used will report positive or negative depending on the voltage of the system and the orientation of the clamp over the cable, eg a -48V system will show - amperage into the load and + amperage out of the load. If you have the clamp the “wrong way” around then it will report the opposite.
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Apr 12, 2022 22:24
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Slavvy posted:Seeing that thumbnail with a tape measure beside the chain and just dying a little inside. Ari rules. He’s making videos for people who don’t know wtf (eg me) so he opts for quantitive over qualitative. I’ve watched his videos as a reference point for pretty much everything I’ve done on my bike (plus having the service manual), and I can’t think of a time where he left anything out.
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Apr 24, 2022 06:06
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Looks like a “quick disconnect” of some sort. Maybe these? https://www.amazon.com/Batterie-Con...la-569312377163 Hard to tell the size. I couldn’t find anything on K2 Energy’s site. Edit: oh yeah looks like these Jazzzzz posted:they look like Anderson powerpole terminals
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May 12, 2022 18:46
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I dumped a dirt bike with ASV levers 5 times (albeit at low speeds) and they didn’t break or bend at all. They’re pretty expensive but I was impressed.
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May 21, 2022 16:04
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Yeah too bad. Crashing in a training environment is probably the best way, though. Trying to catch a ~200kg bike off camber on a loose surface sounds like a good way to hurt your knee, so yeah maybe best to just dump it. One time I was backing up my bike in the garage — not sure exactly what happened but it got away from me and was better to just drop it instead of hurting my back trying to keep it from falling.
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May 22, 2022 04:53
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There's a moto workshop thing in SF where you can take classes to learn how do to stuff, and they also have work benches with tools etc you can rent by the hour. https://www.motoguild-sf.com I've never used it because I didn't know this existed until a month ago. They do require you take a class for some of the things because you are allowed to use it, for example their tire changing machine.
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May 30, 2022 22:39
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Lets just get this out of the way: It has like 4 nanometers of travel, it sucks, and it only exists in 2022 for ~MUH HERITAGE~ people who want to downgrade their suspension to look like they rode in on a bike with a leather belt for a primary drive. Springer suspension at one time had its place and was very common. What about super raked out choppers? I imagine a telescopic fork would hardly work.
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Jun 17, 2022 15:44
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Oh I can’t read
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Jun 17, 2022 15:59
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Drift Ghost has the best battery life, 7-9 hours depending on which you get. I have a Sena 10c evo, but battery life is only 90min while recording continuously. It can record and charge at the same time, eg plugged into a small battery in your jacket.
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Jun 19, 2022 19:23
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Kwolok posted:This is promising. I am always nervous about side mounted because I feel it limits what it can see and I only wear a camera to protect myself in case of accidents, so its more about auditing then sick video (why battery life matters). But I think this may be a front runner for now. They make actual "dashcams" that you wire into your bike's electrical system so you don't have to worry about batteries. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMnu9RvWauQ The chin-mount POV shot is cool for track or whatever but for road riding I think bike-center is going to be better, especially if you have both front- and rear-facing. Here is some footage from a GoPro on my handlebars directly above my steering stem vs the 10c on my helmet, for your reference~ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tR8GvKlaJM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JsETQea7H4
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Jun 20, 2022 03:09
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A MIRACLE posted:How are the Thai made Hondas holding up so far? Some of them seem pretty nice. The flagship models are still made in Japan I think Mine is Thai and no real problems so far (3 years). It seems to burn oil but apparently a common issue. I just top it off every once in a while. 
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Jul 8, 2022 20:37
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knox_harrington posted:That was the way I was told to learn clutchless upshifts; slight pressure up on the shifter and tap the clutch. Gives very smooth shifts.  that’s not clutchless upshifting. Unless I am misunderstanding you I definitely would not recommend shifting like that. Clutchless upshifts are a matter of timing. When you close the throttle, the transmission (briefly) unloads which allows the gears to slide. If you get it wrong nothing really happens, besides upsetting the bike and looking dumb. If you do it right then it’s fast and smooth. You can practice by putting some small pressure into the shifter and then rolling off. It will slide into the next gear and you can get back on the throttle. Once you have the feel you just time your roll off with the gear shift.
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Jul 16, 2022 22:58
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:I was not the slowest, despite speed not being my priority. At no point did I feel like I was going to crash. I’ve never been to a track day that didn’t have crashes. Some days are worse than others, and crashes aren’t limited to the novice/slow group. Some people would say if you’ve never crashed (at track) then you aren’t pushing hard enough. You may notice the best riders in the world crash all the time (but importantly, not when it matters!). I’ll let you form your own opinion there. I have not crashed so far. At least around here, all the riders in the fast group and maybe 1/2 to 2/3 of the riders in the intermediate group have dedicated track bikes. Depending on the person it may or may not be a (relatively) cheap bike, but they’ll all be prepped with some crash protection to help reduce the damage, primarily track plastics and case covers. Track plastics seems to hold up in a crash a lot better OEM. There’s also no mirrors, lights, etc, to break, and you won’t care about scratches and small cracks. It definitely gets expensive, though. Transport, gas, tires, etc. if I could afford it I would go every weekend. This year I’m probably only going to get 4 days.
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Jul 24, 2022 16:21
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Kwolok posted:My go-to mechanic just said I should be putting premium gasoline in my 2016 Yamaha SR400 (yes I am an idiot for owning this bike). He is super knowledgeable and has always helped me out at almost outrageously low prices so I like and trust the guy a lot but this seems to make no sense to me. But he said the bike will run better and more efficiently... Octane rating means how compressible the gasoline is. Higher compression ratio means you need higher octane. Running higher than necessary doesn’t give you more power or better fuel economy or whatever. Calling it “premium” is just dumb marketing. Although I guess it may be true that 91 might have some detergents and stuff in it that 87 won’t. Kwolok posted:Yeah my yamaha manual says "Your Yamaha engine has been de-signed to use regular unleaded gaso-line with a research octane number of95 or higher. " I have no idea where to even find 95 wtf
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Aug 12, 2022 05:30
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MetaJew posted:So, should I spend more money on a silly old bike, or should I save it and buy an RS660, or R9, or maybe an MT09 SP or something if one comes around? I'm primarily only doing track days since most of my other friends I used to ride on the street with have sold their bikes. Gixxer swap bro. SEKCobra posted:Hmm, alright, I'll make sure to mention it to the shop during next service. I still have a few years of warranty left, so they can deal with that for now. How long do warranties last on bikes in your county / the EU, 5 years? They’re only 1 year in the US afaik, almost pointless.
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Aug 27, 2022 14:45
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I am neither a mechanic nor an electrician, but I think if you understand Ohm's law and Kirchhoff's laws you will be mostly fine when it comes to using a multimeter. You can read these if you're really bored.
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Aug 28, 2022 03:16
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This is what my service manual shows to drain my coolant reserve tank I don't see how this would actually work? I would think I need to get the tank out of the frame since there's no suction to pull the fluid out. Or is there a hose inside the tank going all the way to the bottom and it will drain as long as the end of the outside/drain hose is below the tank? This is what it looks like for realsies. 
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Sep 1, 2022 21:18
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Slavvy posted:I think if you look closely you'll find the hose does indeed fit on the very bottom of the overflow tank. If not you can use an pneumatic brake sucker; sometimes the manufacturer is just fucken lazy. Like this is the tank and it the rest is so it slots into the frame nicely? 
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Sep 1, 2022 22:25
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I’m scared.
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Sep 1, 2022 22:46
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Yeah I just wanted the second opinion so I didn't waste time walking back and forth grabbing tools. My bike is parked a few blocks away so I try to plan and bring only the tools I need which doesn't always work out! I think that hose actually is at the bottom and the rest of what you see is just for aesthetics. Behind the red plastic the tank sticks up about another 3 inches and has its own filler cap. Anyway, I changed the coolant. I'll take it on a ride tomorrow and make sure it doesn't overheat!
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Sep 2, 2022 03:38
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Sep 12, 2022 21:36
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