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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:
https://www.pit-bull.com/motorcycle-trailer-restraints
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2023 22:45 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 06:25 |
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Geekboy posted:I also had a 1 mph oopsie on a gravel road I took a wrong turn on that I don’t think I could ride any bike on and need to source an OEM brake lever and pedal. So far, that seems to be a pain in the rear end. Am I just stuck asking my dealer for one? Not a huge rush since the pedal can probably be bent back into place and my lever just has the ball broken off the end. You want the ball on the end so in case you crash again you don't get stabbed by your lever. I assume you are planning to replace but stating the obvious just in case!! Does Triumph lock down their OEM part supply? I can buy Genuine Honda Parts® really easily.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2023 23:55 |
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Yeah cash only. Cash in hand to ride. They crash it they bought it. I wouldn’t really be concerned about counterfeit bills unless that’s a common issue over there.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2023 00:09 |
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Sato says the same thing about their parts, so I assume that is something that just happens with anodizing.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2023 17:02 |
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Is it a cruel irony that multi compound tires will have uneven wear? I had RS10s (single compound) but rode too much freeway, and they started to square off. Now I have Q3+, and the center looks fine, but the sides are wearing down where the compound changes and "ramping" (the shoulder looks OK because I'm a coward). This is approx. 530 miles of track. Am I just expecting too much? This is a (not even) 30hp bike, so it shouldn't chew through tires.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2023 04:25 |
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Yeah basically. After I added it up it seems like 500 miles might be a lot. It has a decent amount of tread left (at least where the wear bars are), just horribly uneven. I think I'm just going to buy a single compound tire again (RS10 or Q5) and avoid the freeway.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2023 05:05 |
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I think there is value in upgrading your existing bike because it lets you directly experience the difference and learn more about bike setup and associated dynamics. Most bikes are going to need work once you get fast enough. 60-80hp bikes are good for track because it’s enough power you can get past slower riders but not so much you don’t have to work at it. My bike isn’t even 30hp, and it’s super satisfying chasing down riders on 600s.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2023 19:08 |
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700NZD is a pretty crazy price for Rosso 3s, but 261USD is also a very good price. Seems like all the Pirelli tires are on clearance at Revzilla. I still need to decide if I should just buy a new rear since my front looks OK, buy a new set of something entirely different, or just put on the RS10s I took off preemptively but are probably fine for another day or two.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2023 02:10 |
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Is it the same ratio? Introducing air doesn’t seem like a very good idea.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2023 03:43 |
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Snell has a table with all the helmets, sizes, and certifications. You can read the M2020 and M2015 standards. Just a quick skimming seems like the testing is the same for full and open face helmets, with the only difference being they don't do visor or chin bar tests on an open face helmet. It seems like they have been doing open face helmets for at least 10 years, which seems odd to me! Maybe it makes sense in a car but definitely not a bike. Given the context, if he's still even considering an open face helmet I'm not sure what you can do to convince him otherwise. The only helmet I know of for sale in the US that is both Snell and ECE 22.06 is the Shoei X-15, which is probably not his style or price range. Here's some videos about "modern" helmet design. Two different approaches for the same idea: reducing rotational velocity to reduce brain injury (not just protecting the skull) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wk94MdHGSPg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BD754n6YwjI
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2023 22:38 |
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The Contour-X is M2020D which implies it is not ECE 22.06 (the Shoei X-Fifteen is M2020R and has the ECE 22.06 sticker). As far as I can tell, the difference between these EU/ECE and NA/DOT helmets is the shell. ECE helmets have softer shells than DOT helmets to help disperse energy. Contour-X (NA) shell is listed as PB-CLC2 Quantic (EU) shell is listed as PB e-cLc Shoei is similar with NA using AIM+ while EU is AIM. What any of that means I guess you need to contact the manufacturer, but my guess is as above: how hard the shell is. Interestingly, the X-Fifteen is Snell M2020R, DOT, and ECE22.06, while the EU version, X-SPR Pro, is ECE22.06 and FIM. The NA version is not FIM, and any FIM helmets I've seen are not Snell. Both NA/EU X-Fifteens use the AIM+ shell The DOT standard just needs to go away. I'm not sure why Canada uses it besides It hasn't been updated in almost 50 years. Anyway different types of riding see different types of crashes. For street riding I suspect ECE is more applicable than FIM. While having a modern, science-based global standard would be nice, I think you will still be safe in a Contour-X even if it's not ECE22.06 certified, as annoying as that is. I do think you need to be more cognizant when helmet shopping in the NA market, though.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2023 17:35 |
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Is there a way to put my rear wheel back on without having to redo the chain tension/alignment? It's a Honda CB300R, if that matters. The rear axle looks like this: If I recall correctly, I've always just loosened everything up to make getting the spacers and caliper back in place easier. I can't slide the blocks forward without loosening the nuts, and I feel like trying to pull it back into place by hand is going to be a pain in the rear end?
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2023 02:46 |
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I can push the wheel forward and get it out, that's no problem. I can't push the little axle blocks forward. So when I want to put it back in, I'd have to get the spacers and caliper in place, pull the wheel back, and push the axle through. I suppose it is possible but seems like maybe there is a simpler way. Or maybe not with this style of adjusters. Pulling the wheel back by hand also feels like the potential to introduce some slop.
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2023 03:19 |
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I don’t know anything, but seems like the tread has become detached from the carcass or the carcass from the sidewall. Either way riding on that is very dumb.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2024 19:06 |
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Yeah I initially thought it was tire too small but the bike looks like an R3 with 150 section so I don’t think that’s it. Anyway I don’t think that is “bizarre wear” but is actual damage to the tire’s structure. Maybe it’s dirt but it looks like you can see actual plies all the way at the edge, on top of the sidewall. Be curious to see what the inside looks like.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2024 22:07 |
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I have an optimate 3 iirc. I have abused my battery and the optimate has brought it back to life multiple times.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2024 19:51 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 06:25 |
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Any ideas where this oil could have come from? Honda CB300R. It's at the very bottom of the frame, the flange that connects to the rear of the crankcase. I cannot find any signs of oil anywhere else, and the oil level is normal. The only thing I noticed is the airbox breather looks kind of gross and is slightly bent to the from the reservoir hose of the shock I installed, but I am assuming that is incidental. Additional pictures fwiw: https://ibb.co/album/3f2TFb
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2024 21:06 |