|
JaySB posted:Would I be incredibly dumb to grab a Buell XB9R Firebolt as a first bike? The SV650 is to fast. Just barely. Going with a faster bike isn't a better idea. Worse than that, the Buells are very very sharp bikes. They're easier to get in trouble with than just about every other bike on the market. That said... I really liked my time on a Buell. :-)
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2008 01:03
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:09 |
|
|
8ender posted:What does everyone here do for storing a bike for the winter? Is your yamaha premix or does it have oil injection? if it has premix, drain the tank. if it has oil injection, use sta-bil. Turn off the fuel, start the bike and run the carbs empty. Drain the remainder from the drain screws. Remove the battery, charge it once a month. That's it. :-)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2008 14:21
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:I generally (even on my 2-strokes) put stabil in the tank, run it till the stabil is in the carbs, then put it up on stands. I leave the gas and stabil in the carbs. Unless you drain the tank and use it in your lawnmower..
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2008 15:00
|
|
|
Polynomial posted:About engine breaking: does fuel injection lessen the force of engine breaking? Just curious. no
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2008 16:12
|
|
|
Armyman25 posted:I posted a thread a couple of months ago about an old Bridgestone bike in my grandparent's barn. The bike is covered in surface rust from being in an uninsulated barn for 20 some years. What's the best way of combating this? Well, it dpeneds on what is rusty. if the paint is bubbling and peeling, the best thing to do is to strip and refinish. If it's on chrome, some steel wool goes a long way. As for your wheels, if they're really ratty, you may be SOL. If they're just pitted and nasty, you can go at them with steel wool and polishing compound. The spokes will be a royal pain, and the best method for dealing with that is spending the $50 and buying new spokes... And then the $50-60 and having a shop respoke the well for you.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2008 21:57
|
|
|
Bob Sapp Please posted:Riding with a passenger on that thing would be a deathwish.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2008 04:17
|
|
|
shaitan posted:Yeah, I took a 30 min ride when I got home from work today and I noticed after about 10 mins i could feel the wind and cold just eat through everything. I think tomorrow morning I'll try my windbreaker and just deal with the cold legs. This weekend I'll decide if it's worth it to buy some pants or just tough it out in small trips put it away for the winter sooner :\. My trick was to buy $10 rain pants from wallmart. Mine are 3 years old now. I've used them a dozen times. No wear yet, and they're awesome for stopping 30 deg air.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2008 04:27
|
|
|
Whoa. Wife Turds posted:It's a '94.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2008 18:54
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Does such an animal exist? Yes, but they're usually integrated with voltmeters and thermometers.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2008 21:33
|
|
|
What bike was it again? you don't need to buy the "exact" tires for your ride. BT45 and Sport Demons are available in those diameters, and close to the right widths.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2008 20:12
|
|
|
greg_graffin posted:It's a 1978 Honda Hawk. Does it matter if I get a bias ply vs. a radial tire? Some people say so. But both tires I recommended are bias ply. Ah, and now I see that you did list the BT45. :-) Don't mix tire brands. Feel free to go 10, or even 20mm wider on the front or rear to get a set that works.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2008 20:46
|
|
|
greg_graffin posted:What would you recommend instead? Perelli Sport Demons are the "other" tire. The BT45's have really good tread life. The sport Demons have good tread life, and are stickier.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2008 21:13
|
|
|
greg_graffin posted:They are also tube tires. Will that be a problem if I move to a tubeless tire? Thanks for all the help guys. I'll have to read up some more before I can decide between the Speed Demons and the BT45s.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2008 05:46
|
|
|
AlaskaGrpwn posted:Two questions. quote:Two:*stator replacement
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2008 06:51
|
|
|
if they have your bike, they have you by the balls. You need to suck it up and pay. if you want the bike back that is.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2008 19:28
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:Any ideas? I'm on a 2007 Triumph Thruxton, air-cooled parallel twin. Same goes for the KZ. The problem is somewhat abated by richening up the pilot screws.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2008 03:08
|
|
|
NVaderJ posted:I need at least one mirror on my '84 Honda Magna to be road legal. It seems that OE parts aren't available. Is there a trick to selecting an aftermarket mirror? I see the threaded holes on the handlebars where the mirrors used to be, but I don't know what mirrors I can choose from. Excepting Yamaha, all mirrors use the same mount. 10mm metric thread. Just hop on ron ayers, bikebandit, or dennis kirk and buy a set you think is pretty.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2008 14:30
|
|
|
DOOKIE ROPES YO posted:I'd flush the coolant system and put in new, 100% antifreeze (NOT 50/50!) BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD idea. use the proper mix. Using less water hurts both the cooling and antifreeze capability. Using LESS water and it will freeze sooner, and cool worse.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2008 05:14
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Anyone know of any good howtos on rewinding stators? The one in my RV90 hardly makes any power anymore. I'm figuring its time for a rewind. ... The only decent ones out there are for the GS bikes. And those are for the 9-12 pole stators. Pull your stator, measure the size of the wire. count turns as you unwind it. I'd put dollars to doughnuts that a electric motor rebuilding shop would redo your stator for less than the cost of materials to do it yourself.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2008 21:16
|
|
|
I think we've been over this before. Realisticly, you shouldn't "need" to move the bike without using the throttle. At idle the bike is about to stall. There's no mechanism to bring the rpms up when they drop. Basicly... that's the way it's supposed to be.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2008 02:28
|
|
|
greg_graffin posted:That's what I meant. Why does it always have to rain when I really, really want to ride? Why does that stop you from riding? hell forget the motorcycle aspect, I went for a 16 mile bicycle ride two nights ago. In the rain. It's.. just.. rain..
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2008 17:26
|
|
|
Whoa. Wife Turds posted:Well, I feel that.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2008 18:34
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Has anyone used Evapo Rust before? I'm using it to try to get the rust out of the Puch Maxi tank (frame, actually, same thing).
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2008 07:23
|
|
|
Kaptainballistik posted:Which really only leaves the Fork tubes chrome. Any Ideas on what to put over them? They're called fork gaiters. They're available in black.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2008 01:56
|
|
|
Have you checked your battery? Possabily the terminals are lose. I've seen that happen.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2008 15:36
|
|
|
Handiklap posted:I've got an '08 rebel
|
|
#
¿
Oct 25, 2008 03:24
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:It could, theoretically - not likely, though. Still, easy enough to test and fix it Where does the clutch engage? All the way at the end of the travel? Or halfway out?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2008 03:31
|
|
|
Oldsmobile posted:So what's a 250cc bike like? You're focusing on displacement. Don't do that. A Suzuki GT250 will do 110mph. A RGV250 will do 130. And a Rebel 250 will barely crack 80. With 250cc, you can find bikes with anywhere from 10hp to 70hp. All motorcycles are dangerous. Your average fatal motorcycle wreck happens under 40mph. Even a slightly modified moped will do that. Some 250's are a handful. Most aren't. Most are pretty lightweight. Not all are very useful. What I'm trying to say is, your question is not a good one. :-) If I understand your question, you want a little commuter bike to run around town on. I need to know what sort of speeds you would be expected to go. I'm 100% comfortable driving around KDC67's Yamaha LT2 on almost any surface street. And it gets to 45-50mph pretty smartly. Riding a slow bike around town, is a lot of fun.... but you do need to plan your moves so you don't end up a greasy wet spot on the pavement. When we recommend a first bike to someone, we point them at a bike with 30-70hp. That excludes bikes like the nighhawk 250, rebel, GZ250, TTR225, but includes the Ninja 250, older 2 stroke 250s, the DRZ400, most any 500cc cruiser, 650cc thumpers.... It's a wide variety of bikes. About the only thing they don't have in common is displacement.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2008 17:26
|
|
|
Oldsmobile posted:Well, it's not a good one, since I don't know a drat about bikes. But I suddenly found out how cheap 250cc bikes were and was instantly interested since I've been thinking about cheap two wheeled transportation that's not a scooter. Well, I was hoping you'd tell me what i was looking for. Are you just looking for reliable city transport? Or are you looking for a real motorcycle? The answer to both is you first need to get yourself signed up for the MSF. For the city, you can look at some wildly tiny, quirky, and fun bikes. If you're looking to do some real travel, you're options change. The bikes get much larger. Whatcha looking for in a bike? Krakkles posted:So, theoretically, if one were riding a carburated 644cc single cylinder up a very steep hill, and managed to very slowly lay it on it's right side, would it be normal for gas to pour out? First off. It's not a sin to lay down a bike. It happens. I've done it, ravyns done it, squishy's done it, skreemer's done it, z3n's done it, everyone has. And if they haven't, the will. Yes, if you lay a carburated bike on it's side, it will leak fuel. When a bike is on it's side, the floats won't seal off the float valves, and fuel will pour through the carbs. Also, if the tank is full, fuel can come out the vent tubes. The bike didn't start right away, because the carb was flooded. Opening the throttle moved more air, and therefore more fuel, eventually leading to the carb unflooding, and the bike starting.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2008 06:15
|
|
|
Just sounds like the motor is cold. Perhaps your thermostat is stuck open?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2008 16:16
|
|
|
LOLLERZ posted:How would I know if it's stuck open, and what can I do about it if it is? And why would that kill the bike? It's hard to answer the first bit. Ideally you'd just pull it out and examine it. If it IS sticking, you replace it. Thermostats aren't all that expensive. If the engine doesn't maintain temperature, it will need to be on choke. Just like the motor were cold. It's common with air cooled bikes for them to stall out when getting off the highway. Low throttle for slowing down at the end of the ramp, combined with high airspeeds chills the motor to the point that it will no longer idle. That can happen with water cooled bikes that don't have thermostats.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2008 16:28
|
|
|
LOLLERZ posted:My bike is water cooled. However, I think echomadman has the right slant. I've never had carb icing problems, but that sound highly likely in your case.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2008 18:43
|
|
|
philkop posted:Any advice on kick starting old bikes in the cold? Iv tried the conventional,(ie choke, turning engine over slowly a few times ect.) but I think its time to move onto more drastic measures. Though I think I've mentioned this before about your bike. It should start second kick. If it's not (and you said it took you tens of kicks to get it going again..) you need to clean your pilot circuit
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2008 20:35
|
|
|
There's really not a lot you can do. You're looking at the wattage limit of your stator. Things get rather confusing, because you could potentially have a 200v output, but if you draw enough amperage on it, the voltage will drop right down to inexcusably low levels. My first suggestion would be to buy a new battery, and keep it on a charger at night. That would likely keep the battery voltage high enough. If your r/r is set low, that "could" be the issue. But given that your heat works above 2500rpm, I think your r/r is ok. Honestly, I'd find a new grip heater controller. :-)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2008 15:13
|
|
|
I warm my bikes up on the move. That's the best way of doing it anyway. :-) If it's stalling out, slip the clutch a little more. by your second or third stopsign the bike will be warmed up.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2008 18:22
|
|
|
philkop posted:but I unscrewed everything, sprayed carb cleaner, and put it all back together. Am I missing somthing? Lots. There are lots of how-to guides for cleaning carbs. You should have followed one of them. Most likely, you never actually cleaned the portion of the jets that needed cleaning, and in the act of screwing and unscrewing everything you have closed off your pilot screw. You are now in moderately deep do-doo. At this point, you'll need to look up a factory service manual, and check to see where your pilot screw should be set. And what notch your carb needle should be set to.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2008 21:28
|
|
|
Ola posted:Oh I forgot. I have a stupid question about valve adjustments. From what little I know, there are various ways valves go out of whack. On some engines the valves wear into the head and eventually go tight against whatever actuates it as it eventually sits higher. Does this eventually wear out the head? If so, is it usually engineered to have a replacement mileage higher than the expected life? What does wear out, eventually, are valve guides. I could see a shot to hell valve guide lettinga valve rattle enough that it wears the head in some signifigant fashion.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2008 21:41
|
|
|
when you took it apart, and reassembled it. you likely removed the pilot screw. It may be called mixture screw. That needs to be set right, or the bike will not start.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2008 01:53
|
|
|
exactly how to set it, is important. You'll need to scrounge some honda sites to find the proper setting. 1.5 to 2.5 turns out is probally the right range.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2008 02:10
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:09 |
|
|
I had the same thing happen on my 1980 GS550. it vents through the gas cap, so I had to clean the insides of the gas cap
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2008 02:27
|
|