|
Material to material interfaces are hard. More of them would make the situation less reliable. They have craptons of lead to work with, so they work with lead. If Ihad my way, they'd all be vertical terminals so you could easily reach both sides of the connection. But.. for some reason they go with the horizontal terminals.
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2014 17:01
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 17, 2024 00:57 |
|
|
FluffyDice posted:So I picked this up for $600 on the weekend: You don't want to know the answer if a compression tester will tell you anything valid. Start hunting down a low mileage set of carbs for it. Those carbs like to hog out the emulsion tubes, which makes idle, and near idle throttle "wooly" At high rpm you're most likely blowing out carbon from the over rich idle. You bought an awesome little bike, that's also an awesome bag of trouble. :-)
|
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2014 14:30
|
|
|
Ola posted:Suspension question: I really like the idea of two damper circuits so it can be stiff under braking but softer on bumps instead of vice versa on a single circuit damper. Many rear shock come with high/low speed compression adjustment, but does the lack of adjusters mean that there is a single damping circuit? Or will a higher end shock / cartridge fork have two circuits for compression damping even if it might not have external adjusters? lack of external adjusters does not absolutely indicate a lack of high and low speed valving. IIRC the GSXR shocks I've used only have adjustment on the low speed circuits. Most aftermarket shocks have enough adjustment to get you into trouble though..
|
|
#
¿
Aug 19, 2014 15:36
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Essentially there is more to the bike than just the displacement. quote:The TU250's engine is a rather old air-cooled single-cylinder design. quote:That means it doesn't rev very high and it needs to be tuned a little more gently because of the poorer cooling. The frequently recommended Ninja 250 is a higher-revving liquid-cooled parallel twin, which produces a fair bit more power for its [displacement]. That means it's better suited to freeway speeds -- plenty of people with Ninja 250s take them on the highway two-up without any problems. quote:Beyond the engine, the TU250 is also an old frame and suspension design. I'm not an expert on suspension, so I can't tell you how it would hold up in a race, but I own a CL350, one of the original '70s bikes that the TU250 is imitating, and will tell you that (compared to a modern bike) it's kind of like riding a bouncy castle and the brakes are terrifying. The suspension is cheap. So is the suspension on a EX250. Twin shocks are better in most cases than single shocks if a bike is cheap. It provides more cooling area. It provides better leaned over wheel control. It allows for a lighter swingarm. And you dont' need to care about swingarm torsional stiffness. Yes, single shocks are usually better, but not on a cheap bike. Why do you think the brakes on the TU250 are terrifying? It's got modern pad materials, a modern caliper, and modern disk material. It's a decent brake, especially given it's got 16hp. quote:I would say that the TU250 would be fine if you really wanted something with that style, weren't interested in doing any work on the bike*, and planned to ride it more like a scooter than a motorcycle (around town and at low speeds). If you plan to do more than that, get something else. If you think you might go on the freeway, you definitely will go on the freeway, and while the TU250 might be capable of it, it won't be fun. That I know. quote:*I say less maintenance compared to buying an authentic '70s UJM, but it will be more maintenance than many other bikes, because the engine is still a really old design. Regular valve clearance adjustments etc. You're taking "hey it looks like a late 60's bike" and thinking that "it must be a late 60's bike." quote:Air cooled engines definitely run hotter than water-cooled engines, have looser tolerances (lower power/more maintenance) and aren't as well suited to hot climates. You probably won't notice the difference on your legs, though; the heat mostly comes off the exhaust and that's going to be more or less the same temperature regardless of the engine. Some bikes will cook your junk while with others you won't even notice; depends on the exhaust positioning. I don't know how it is for the TU250. I have no idea how you got all of those ideas in your head. rizuhbull posted:This is what I'm worried about. I don't think I'd do much highway riding when I could just take 41 (55 is the max I believe), especially when it's the clogged-up busy season (winter), nor do longer trips in the summer that would call for the highway when it's sweltering out. That make sense? It's also just me assuming, I don't really know. maintence is also something I rather not get involved with. I'm certainly up for learning some of the basics but I'm not interested in working on a bike as a hobby, don't want to do more than i need to. You just mentioned 41, I am assuming youre in chicagoland. 16 horsepower is not enough for Chicago. I-94 can't be ridden safely without a bike capable of at least 100mph. Not that you'll go that fast, but you need excess power available to provide escape routes, and that means having some horsepower on tap when you're already doing 70mph. You need something with at least 20, ideally 40hp. (GS500, Ninja 250, 883 Sportster, etc...)
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2014 17:35
|
|
|
SquadronROE posted:Okay, now that I'm basically done with the maintenance for quite awhile (the Buell really has 0 maintenance) I figured I'd have some fun with it. Maybe I'll repaint it. Anyone have any advice for painting a bike with plastic fairings? Repainting almost always lowers the value of the bike. I wouldn't recomend it. Unless the thing is trashed as is. Otherwise.. find some trashed body parts, and repaint those. :-)
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2014 20:36
|
|
|
Grimwall posted:I need some help. My rear break (drum) engages but does not release for at least 2 or 3 seconds when I remove my foot from the pedal, all the while screaming like banshee. I have a 2005 hyosung gv250. What can cause this? it's a hyosong. That's your answer. :-) As for fixing it? You problaly just need to grease the brake drive cam. you'll need to remove the rear wheel to do this. There's a paddle shaped cam that goes between the brake shoes inside the drum. That needs to be greased.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2014 14:57
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:A 77 Suzuki TS185 has popped up for cheap on the local craigslist. They say it runs as is but will need a new clutch eventually. Does anyone know if parts are still easy to find for these things as it's super tempting at like $600. It's a suzuki. Parts are common. $600 sounds high for a TS185 though.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2014 10:03
|
|
|
Chris Knight posted:I always leave the gas in the bowls over the winter, but drain in the spring for the first start up. That's like draining your battery in the fall, and charging it in the spring. As long as you're going to drain the carbs, do it when the fuel in the carbs is fresh. Draining in the spring is.. useless.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2014 16:11
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:FWIW if we're talking engaging, fun bikes to ride I'd rather have good carbs than lovely efi just for the smoothness. So I agree. Any EFi on bikes between oh.. 1984 and what.. 2010? Even then the snatch has been pretty significant on anything I've ridden. (hell, even driven...)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2018 15:13
|
|
|
RadioPassive posted:That trick melted the started motor on my car once. Is it safe on bikes? "safe" no. But will it work? probally. At least one guy on the GSR loads his bikes by popping the plugs and using the starter motor to move the bike up into a trailer. The weak point there is the starter clutch. I've had the clutch cable break on me. If you get the bike rolling in neutral, you can drop the bike into first, or second, and it'll go too.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2022 03:08
|
|
|
I've got a 1971 Yamaha LT2 here, after 15 years of ownership... It's finally got a problem that doesn't respond to some starter fluid or a carb clean. It's lost spark and I'm looking to replace the points and condensor. That means pulling the flywheel... But what flywheel puller do I need? I already ordered the most common one on Amazon ( the 24/27mm model ) but since I already spent the money, and the points are still in the mail, I'm asking what flywheel puller I should have bought.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2022 11:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 17, 2024 00:57 |
|
|
epswing posted:While still running, if I turn the key off and the engine briefly dies, then fires 1-2 times before fully stopping, what's that telling me? It's rare, but it happens from time to time, usually after a long ride. If the key is off, wouldn't that mean my plugs can't be firing? If so, I'm still getting combustion off compression alone (like a diesel)? Is the engine running way too hot/lean? TL;DR: Something in your top end is staying hot and it should be checked out. Something is still hot enough to burn some fuel. In very broad strokes, this is usually carbon or some other deposit in the cylinder head area. Amusingly, this can come from not running an engine hard enough, so it doesn't get hot enough to burn off deposits. Or your spark plug is dirty, and could probally be a heat range or two warmer. Or your spark plug is to hot, and the plug itself is auto-igniting the fuel. Or, your exhaust valves aren't closing all the way, so are overheating. So, in the short term, you're probably fine, whatever is wrong, has already done the damage if it's going to damage anything. The big problem is if this happens during normal running, is now your ignition timing is "weird". You could be looking at piston or crank damage, or even exhaust valve damage. Lean is "late". Overall engine temps are lower, but the exhaust gets warmer than normal because it's a slower/later burn. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Sep 6, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2023 14:36
|
|