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Spartak posted:I want to take the front wheel off my CB250N but the wheel spindle nut won't budge. Is it threaded the normal way? Or do I just need to get a bigger wrench? Is there a pinch bolt holding that spindle nut in place? I'm pretty sure most of my bikes have a pinch bolt there. I once tried to pull out the axle to yank the wheel, but I'd forgotten about the pinch bolt and that made it basically impossible. 
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Oct 14, 2008 21:27
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So my dad's bike has some kind of mysterious electrical thing, and I don't know what the gently caress. It's a late model Kawi Vulcan 2000, 05 or 06 or so. At some point, it just stopped doing anything when you turn the ignition key. -No headlight, no dash lights, no indication that there is power getting to anything. -I've checked all the fuses, verified that the battery has a charge by running a 12v air pump off it, and there's definitely power getting as far as the main 30A fuse. I've unplugged and replugged all the electrical connections that are easy to get to. What's the next step? Checking the ignition switch somehow?
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Feb 9, 2010 04:31
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Z3n posted:Can you wiggle the key to get any life out of it? Do the parking lights work? Failing that, I'd try hot wiring the ignition, do you have a repair manual? I can't get poo poo. No parking lights or signals. He told me that before it went totally dead, there were a few times he had to wiggle it to get some life out of it. I guess it's time to invest in a repair manual.
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Feb 9, 2010 15:10
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Alright, need help diagnosing electric crap. Bike didn't start, turns out the battery's completely dead, even though it's been my daily driver for the last couple of years. Got it bump-started, it ran fine, battery was still dead after a 90 minute drive. Does this mean my rectifier-regulator has taken a dump? It's a late model DR650se, if that matters. I'm going to trickle-charge the battery to make sure it isn't just a battery that went inexplicably dead all on its own.
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Aug 27, 2010 01:06
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SaNChEzZ posted:Your battery could simply be dead.. My SV's battery took a poo poo and wouldn't charge at all either no matter how long I rode it. Tested the charging system, plopped in a new battery and now I ride it to work every day without sweating balls in my gear trying to get it bump started. Batteries do that? I just assumed there would be a period where it would get shittier and shittier without just going straight doornail on me.
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Aug 27, 2010 01:10
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SaNChEzZ posted:Mine held a charge until one day it wouldn't start. Then I'd have to jump it in the morning and bump it when I left work. poo poo was brutal. Also, if yours happens to take a X12-BS I have a brand spankin new one in Los Angeles for the low price of $30 (bought the wrong god drat battery the first time) Looks like I'm a x9-BS. My SV takes an X12, though. I'll see if that one needs to be replaced too. Hey, wait, you're in LA? Do you happen to have a multimeter I could borrow, and live on the eastside? edit: also, where's a good local place to buy that sort of thing cheap? Does Target/Wallyworld carry bike batteries?
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Aug 28, 2010 21:49
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Nate Falls posted:Alright, need help diagnosing electric crap. Alright, still trying to figure this one out, have gathered a few more clues. The battery is straight up dead, won't hold any charge from my trickle charger. Managed to get the bike bump-started and get a voltmeter across the battery, and I'm getting something like 5v all the way from idle to revved up (no tach, so I can't be specific). Does that sound like the R/R is toast? Follow-up: Has anyone installed a universal aftermarket rectifier/regulator? Trailtech has one for $35, and boy, that sounds nice compared to $140 or whatever for a OEM one.
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Sep 5, 2010 04:47
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Blaster of Justice posted:Did you replace your collapsed battery? If you didn't, don't worry about your voltage regulator just yet. Well, I know I'm going to have to replace the battery. Question is, is the r/r also screwed, and will the screwed r/r damage the new battery if I don't replace it at the same time? 'Cause I can just pick up the battery at Wal-Mart, but if the R/R is shitted up, I have to order it, and that'll take a few days, and I hate having to ride my damned scooter everywhere. VVVVV Was the condescending tone really necessary? Really, dude? Chopsy fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 07:10
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Phat_Albert posted:Thats kind of BoJ in a nutshell, but he's right, replace your battery first, bikes do all sorts of weird stuff when the battery isnt up to snuff. You'll get low voltage across the terminals when the bike is running if the battery is internally shorted, which is very possible if its completely flat. Ah, an actual answer with an explanation and stuff. Sounds good, cheers man.
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Sep 5, 2010 20:20
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So, quick question re: bike diagnosis. 06 DR650, 80k miles: Engine stopped once a couple weeks ago when stuck in one lane traffic for a while, may have gotten real hot? Has begun to not start when it's been recently run, like if I get back to it after a quick run into the store. Every time, if I let it sit for 15 mins, it starts right up no problem. Cranks just fine, sounds like it's almost starting, but doesn't. It's a couple thousand miles overdue for an oil change. Being that it's oil/air cooled, is it possible that has something to do with it? Chopsy fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 01:15
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Yeah, I figured I needed to do that anyway, so I got it done. I'm afraid to test it though, because that means I gotta go out to buy more xmas presents and then maybe she no starty when it's time to come home.
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Dec 24, 2014 03:42
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kenny powerzzz posted:If that didn't fix it you may be running rich anyway. Too rich to start easily when warm. Do you need any choke when the bike is cold? If not this could point that way. Only when it's real cold outside. I just took it 2 miles to the store and it's barely warm and not starting in the parking lot 
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Dec 24, 2014 07:44
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kenny powerzzz posted:I could be wrong but I think you have carb trouble. Yeah, that sounds reasonable. Anything I can do about it here in a grocery parking lot?
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Dec 24, 2014 07:55
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poo poo, bikey still no starty. This is what I get for not just taking my truck to the store. Anyone think they can help get me home, call or text Chopsy fucked around with this message at 12:07 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 08:31
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Z3n posted:Have you ever checked the valves on that thing? Sounds like the valves are super tight. Thanks, guys. I had to push it a miles, then Smythe picked me up and we hung out and a few hours later it started and I got home in the wee hours of Christmas Eve. Gonna see if I have a valve...gauge...thing.
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Dec 25, 2014 23:19
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So here's a question. It's long as gently caress. 07 Suz DR650se. 80k miles. 1) Starts having problems starting, but only when the engine is warm. If it's not been run in a few hours, it starts right up, no probs. 2) finally just decides to not start. Cranks just fine, eventually smells flooded. 3) I push it to the local bike shop. 4) They say no spark, they say it's the charging system, needs a new stator. Stator gets there, stator cover gasket takes more than a month to arrive, for reasons of weather on the east coast and union poo poo at the docks in Long Beach, God only knows. 5) new stator is in, the bike has spark, but no starty. Compression is low, they adjust the valves (first valve job in 80k miles, lol), compression is (not great but) better, but still no starty. 6) They say, maybe it's the CDI box but there's no way to be sure, only thing we can do is get a new $600 cdi box/used $400 cdi box and see what loving happens. At this point they've had my god drat DR650 for 2.5 months. Are my mechanics incompetent or crooks or both? Chopsy fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 03:06
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Z3n posted:
well God drat it. They had decent Yelp reviews, too. I should resurrect my SV650 at the same time. Is there a way for me to verify that the valves are burnt and it's not actually the stupid CDI box or whatever? Chopsy fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 20:12
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Ola posted:Compression tester, $20 max. It only takes a tiny chuck out of a valve to make the compression gauge go from 150 psi to 10. I know. I think they said my compression was back up to...80? after the valve adjust. Is that still super bad?
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Mar 19, 2015 20:38
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Geirskogul posted:Terrible. Like, "wouldn't even start if everything else was working perfectly" terrible? edit: clarification: like literally impossible to start, or just real unlikely? I wanna know if someone at Atlantis Motors deserves to get punched. Chopsy fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 21:45
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 15:18 |
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well, gently caress. It's not even a dealership, it's a independent hipster shop. Also to be fair it's a fairly late model but it's had a hard-rear end life. I bought it and immediately rode it from LA to the arctic circle and back, so it's seen some poo poo. Still though, now that you mention it, if the original list of problems included "compression: 60psi", I can't believe their first thought was "Oh yeah, we should replace the stator". That sounds like some "There's a jagged bone sticking out of his thigh, let's check his blood work"-level incompetence. edit/update: I talked to them on the phone, compression was 70 when it came in and now after a valve adjust it's a whopping 85. A cursory google seems to indicate that it should be a minimum of 120. Chopsy fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 01:41
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