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From previous thread:quote:As for bikes, I have a strong preference for cruisers, and made the following list of candidates based mainly on them not being the crazy top of the line bikes with way more HP and weight than I think I can safely use. I'd appreciate any feedback on this list. I've looked at many of these bikes in person and I like them a lot, so unless the list is batshit insane I think it's likely I would buy something from it in the next few months. Also look at the Vulcan 500, an older 800 (is there a 750?), or, possibly, a Vulcan 900. I carry stuff in my backpack sometimes (but I don't like having hard things in there), a tail bag, and/or a duffel bag tied to my luggage rack. You can also get saddle bags.
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Oct 5, 2008 07:03
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I'm not sure I'd try riding with a messenger-type bag though, it might shift around, which could potentially distract you. My backpack is so much nicer to wear. A sternum strap is an amazing thing to have. shaitan posted:With the cold weather hitting us, how do you guys handle cold weather riding, more specifiically your legs? I don't have any riding pants so I'm stuck riding with normal jeans right now, would some thermals work well? Along with my jacket, a sweatshirt and some underarmour ski mask I have my upper body all set. Thermals won't help. They won't stop the wind from cutting through. If you can't afford textile pants, maybe try finding some windproof pants (running pants or something?) and layering them over jeans and thermals. 8ender posted:What does everyone here do for storing a bike for the winter? Its starting to get too cold to ride here without assuming the "lay across the bike and hug the engine for warmth" position so I think its time to put it away until spring. I have a nice converted chicken coop to store it in. I fill up my tank, pour in some Sta-Bil, yank the battery, drop the tire pressure a few PSI, put some bags over my tail pipes, and put my cover on. Haven't had a problem yet.
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Oct 6, 2008 14:11
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shaitan posted:Running pants, duh! I think this may be the route I'll go. Before I got my textiles, the only thing that would help riding in the cold was a windbreaker over my drafty leather. Layers underneath did nothing at speed.
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Oct 6, 2008 21:01
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Vidaeus posted:I have a 2006 Honda VTR250 and want to be able to jack the bike up so chain maintenance etc is easier. I bought a rear wheel paddock stand similar to this and the matching knob thingies that you screw into your swingarm. However, when I got home, I realised that there is no place for me to screw the little knob things in. I have since returned the rear wheel jack and the knobs. It's not the most useful thing in the world as it doesn't lift the wheel off the ground, but I use a Rollastand to help me with cleaning my chain. It works wonders for me because I live in an apartment and carrying a jack or a stand up and down stairs is not much of an option. You can get a motorcycle jack at any autoparts store for $80-$90.
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Oct 11, 2008 13:14
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I was reading the adventure bike round up in Cycle World and noticed all the bikes came with spoked wheels. What's the advantage of this? I know having spokes means you need to run a tube, which makes patching a hole difficult/impossible. I would think bikes designed to be ridden off-road would want to avoid spokes for that reason alone.
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Oct 12, 2008 21:53
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GoldenDelicious posted:My main questions are more towards what exactly I should look for in a Cruiser when I start scouring craigslist and used bikes so I don't end up with a bike that dies in six months or that I will pay thousands of dollars for and end up hating. Unfortunately none of my friends ride motorcycles so this seems like my best place to ask. I apologize if any of these questions are stupid, I'd just like to make as informed a decision as I can so once I do get a motorcycle I can come back with good stories and whatnot. I guess what you're asking for is which cruisers you should be looking for. Other than the different makes, you are just stuck with the normal bike concerns (does it run, how are the tires, etc). There should be a newbie FAQ somewhere... Cruisers make less power than their sport bike counterparts with the same displacement, so you can go a bit bigger. With cruisers, weight becomes an issue long before power does, I think. Most people here say 650 is borderline for a new rider, but any 650 cc cruiser will be fine for a new rider (almost all of the Japanese makers have a 650 cc cruiser). I would say the Vulcan 900 is the limit of what you'd want to ride. Harley's 883 Sportster should also be fine (I haven't ridden one, but it's physically much smaller than my Vulcan 500). Beyond that it's standard cruiser stuff. Does it have pegs or floorboards? Highway pegs? Do you want a windshield? Are you willing to pay for chrome? It's generally easy to find saddlebags, windshields, sissy bars, engine guards, etc for cruisers, though if you want to customize, check availability before you buy (eg, there is almost nothing out there for the Vulcan 500). I would search craigslist for anything Japanese under 900 cc that is running (Harley's don't depreciate as much, so they'd be a bigger investment). You should be able to turn around and sell it easily if you don't like it. Before you do that, sit on a couple at a dealer so you tell how cruisers feel and if it's right for you. Personally, I would recommend getting something a little more neutral than a bike with ape hangers and forward controls until you are sure that's what you'd be comfortable riding.
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Oct 28, 2008 18:45
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QnoisX posted:I have a few questions that I don't recall reading. On cold days is it okay to choke your bike to start and leave it choked till you are moving? I just got a 08 Ninja 250r and tried letting it warm up with the choke, dechoking, then starting, but it always dies when I let out the clutch. If I leave the choke in till I'm moving then it does fine. I just take up a full spot when parking, but leaving a bike on the sidewalk isn't the norm around here. I've never seen anyone do that and I would assume I'd get a ticket if I tried. I usually take my helmet with me because I'm paranoid and my helmet lock puts it right on the exhaust. I leave it with the bike (on the rear turn signal or on the ground) at certain locations where I feel comfortable that no one will gently caress with it. Just practice pushing through all the gears as you're stopping. It'll become second nature. I don't know about Ninja, but on my bike, I have a very small limit in which I can adjust the mirror. If I try to go too far out, the mirror will tilt down and show me nothing but road. I had to trial-and-error with rotating the mirror stalk to a position that would allow me the correct adjust range. Try messing with the stalks and see if you can get better range.
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Oct 30, 2008 20:27
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You should definitely be in a lower gear at 30 mph. I go up a gear about every 10 mph or so, so I'd be in 3rd or 4th on my bike. It keeps you in the power band, which is good for quicker maneuvers and more engine braking, should you need it. It's not like your 250 is burning so much fuel that you need to worry about a slight decrease in fuel economy.
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Nov 9, 2008 00:46
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My Kawasaki 500 cc engine has more torque than yours and I have no power at that low of an RPM. Hell, my car has gobs of torque and would be on the verge of stalling if I tried to accelerate like that. The manual state the minimums; you can safely take it much higher. In fact, you should for your own safety so you can move quickly if you need to. Like I said, at easy cruising, I take my speed, divide by ten, and that's the gear I should be in at a minimum (3rd gear at 30 mph, etc). When accelerating, I go much, much higher (75 mph in 3rd)
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Nov 9, 2008 01:59
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QnoisX posted:You can slow down pretty well just doing that, at what point do you start braking? Before I was just holding the clutch in and using brakes to stop while downshifting, so this is a new method of slowing down. I don't have a tach, so I have to go by feel, but I shift down at about the point the engine isn't doing too much work braking anymore. Honestly, I don't pay too much attention to my speed, but down every 10 mph sounds about right (slow down to about 45-50 mph in 6th, first). I generally downshift to about 3rd (sometimes 2nd) before pulling the clutch in all the way, braking, and shifting into first before I stop. However, I still use my brakes if there are cars on the road. Using engine braking does not turn on your brake lights, which does not alert the other drives of you slowing. I don't fully brake; just enough to get the light to turn on.
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Nov 10, 2008 05:57
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Spartak posted:How do people handle switching to reserve while in motion? I switch it in motion if the need arises. Usually I can tell from the mileage if I'm getting low and fill up, but I get surprised sometimes (after a series of cold days where I let the bike warm up longer and my range drop, after high speed riding where my fuel economy plunges, etc). If I'm getting low and getting into a place I don't want the bike to die (getting on the interstate, riding up a hill, hitting some twisties, etc), I'll switch before running out. However, I still do this while moving. You should practice just sitting on the bike and reaching for the petcock. Get a feel for where it is without having to look. Once you know how to find it by touch, practice finding it while moving so you can do it when you really need to. Just remember to take it off reserve once you fill up.
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Nov 16, 2008 13:13
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QnoisX posted:Hmm...I dunno if it's possible, but please get someone to record your attempt. One way or another it sounds like it'd make an awesome video. I've seen plenty of folks on tv going down stairs on bikes, but never up them. It might be safer to get some of those thick floor panels and make a ramp. Cut them to the width of the stairs and staple 1 by 4 strips along it horizontally for grip. I would make a ramp going down the stairs just to distribute the load. Instead of putting the entire weight of the bike on two individual steps, you spread it out over all the steps more-or-less evenly. Of course, if the entire staircase falls down, it doesn't matter if the individual steps don't break, but it's once less thing to worry about.
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Nov 19, 2008 21:05
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bung posted:Go to an auto parts store or WalMart and get a pack of valve cores and the tool for installing them. It shouldn't cost more than $10. My car did that the first time I went to put air in. The core was just loose and I didn't even need a new one.
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Nov 20, 2008 21:45
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Nerobro posted:is your sidestand down? IIRC kawasaki's have neutral cutout switches. As long as the sidestand is down (or the bike think's it is down) the bike will not run in gear. I killed a battery twice in a row this spring because of that. 
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Nov 21, 2008 20:34
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My Vulcan 500's manual says every 6,000 miles.
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Nov 25, 2008 14:19
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Here's what HIDs in an improper housing look like: (I stole this from Dr. Hoga in an old thread.)
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Nov 26, 2008 23:33
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QnoisX posted:I swear I thought I read that it took 87 somewhere, but under my passenger seat it says to use 91. There are two different ways of measuring octane rating. In the rest of the world, the octane rating reads about 4-5 points higher than the same fuel in the US. I know my Vulcan lists both of the ratings in different places on the bike and in the book. You should reread the manual to make sure you really need 91 octane or if 87 is good enough. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
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Dec 3, 2008 06:21
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rxcowboy posted:1: I'm going to take the basic ride safety course. On the MVA's homepage, it says you should be able to ride a bicycle before starting the class. I last rode a bicycle when I was 8, and only rode that fucker for a few months. Am I retarded for even thinking of trying to learn here? If it's a matter of balance I've got a good sense/feel, but if bicycle mastery is a key part of the process, am I hosed? I would definitely get a bicycle and ride it around. Balancing on two wheels is different than balancing on one foot. You don't do it much once you're moving, but going slow takes some balance and the MSF course is a lot of slow riding. Once you take the MSF course, you'll have a better feel for what makes a good bike. There are plenty of good suggestions out there, from the Ninja 250, to the Ninja 500 or GS500, to the SV650 or Ninja650, to the smaller cruisers, to old 70's and 80's Japanese bikes. This board is a good place to ask specifics or to throw up ads and ask for opinions. Basically, you'll want to get something that is relatively reliable, that runs when you buy it, and isn't too powerful. You get those things and the only thing you would be worried about is old tires and an oil change (at least at first).
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Dec 4, 2008 06:25
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My anti-theft is turning off the ignition and having insurance. I don't even use the steering lock because it's not integrated into the ignition like on a sportbike. If the bike gets stolen, it's just an excuse to buy a Versys!
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Dec 8, 2008 18:16
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I use one of these: http://www.newenoughhp.com/track_garage/tools__hardware/motion_pro/cable_luber.html You take off one end, clamp this tool on, and spray until it drips out the other end.
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Dec 27, 2008 17:32
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shaitan posted:Are there any recommended Battery Tenders? Or are they all pretty much the same? I use this guy with no complaints.
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Jan 5, 2009 06:19
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Prince posted:I have been told that White helmets are far more visible They're not. Sure, in certain situations they would be, but generally the urban environment is a light gray color and white doesn't really stick out that much. Not to mention doing nothing in low light situations. If you want a safe color, look for a bright yellow or orange. Otherwise, I'd just get the black one.
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Jan 8, 2009 14:57
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Z3n posted:I would carefully jack the bike up off of the bottom of the engine block or frame to adjust the chain slack and lube the chain. I'm supposed to adjust the chain on my bike with the rear wheel on the ground. You just loosen the axle nut, turn the two adjustment nuts in the back of the swingarm to move the wheel, and tighten everything back up. The hardest part is taking off the exhaust that is directly in front of the axle nut. fronkpies, you're missing the lubing of cables. I have one of these and it's a snap (if a bit messy).
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Jan 12, 2009 21:35
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Z3n posted:What bike recommends that? I've never heard of something like that, as you're going to have a hell of a time working against all of that resistance. Are you sure it doesn't say to measure the slack while it's on the ground and adjust it with it off the ground? That is common. It's a Vulcan 500. Maybe it is recommended to measure while on the ground, but I found almost to resistance to moving the axle with the wheel on the ground. It was really, really easy.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:16
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I should have probably asked this months ago. On the last two days of the season last year, I briefly lost traction in the back end while going in a straight line (once on gravel, once on wet pavement, both due to enthusiastic application of throttle). Both times the back end kicked out a tiny bit and I just kept the throttle steady, letting the bike ride it out. I've been wondering if that was the best course of action or if I should have done something different. I know if you lock up your rear brakes, you're supposed to keep them locked, but I don't think slamming on my brakes would have helped my situation any.
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Jan 24, 2009 18:24
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Christoff posted:What's the best chain lube and where to get? How often should I lube it up? Just when it visibly might need some? I lube my chain every 300 miles (every weekend or two) and clean it every other time (mostly out of lazyness). Change the chain and sprockets when they are worn out. On my bike, I just have to clean the air filter. I did that at 8,000 miles and it was filthy, so I'm going to do it every 3000-5000 miles or whenever I get around to giving it an oil change.
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Feb 24, 2009 18:28
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:and you can't park mopeds bicycle-style in DC and thus have to pay for street parking anyway. Confirm/deny? Aren't those things as big as a BMX bike and weigh about 5 pounds? Why in the world would you want to leave on on the street?
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Mar 4, 2009 19:30
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Because you can't take it into a pub? No, I meant why would the government even think street parking a moped would a good idea versus letting you park on a sidewalk and chaining it up. I didn't mean why you would want to leave it outside. I hate parking my motorcycle in some places because I know the day will come when someone will knock it over. With a moped, it'd be knocked and driven over before Soccer Mom even notices a thing.
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Mar 4, 2009 21:26
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cmorrow001 posted:BRAKE LIGHT ISSUE Stab in the dark, but on my bike, I have a little adjuster on the lever for the rear brake. I can turn it in or out so the light comes on with more or less travel of the rear brake lever. I can conceivably turn it so far that the brake light is always on.
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Mar 6, 2009 01:37
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Doctor Zero posted:If you're after cruisers, you may want to consider a Honda Shadow as well. I've never heard anyone say anything bad about a Vulcan, but I've never heard anyone rave about them either. The Vulcan 900 owners rave about the Vulcan 900. More than owners of other Vulcans. If I were looking to get another cruiser, it'd be on my list, mostly because the engine isn't so big compared to other "big" cruisers. Also, I'll rave about my Vulcan 500 all day, but it's a parallel twin, so it's not a "proper" cruiser.
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Mar 7, 2009 18:23
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MrKatharsis posted:A cruiser style seat puts the pressure right on your buttcheeks. It also immobilizes the rider to some degree. Standing up on forward controls is not always possible for Yeah, I can't move around on my seat. It's big and soft. I don't get pain, but I do get numb. Wearing proper riding pants helps a lot. My cold weather overpants have pads on the butt cheeks and go over jeans, so I'm well padded there. My summer leathers have a tiny pad right in the middle and they let me slide around a little bit; I can ride for hours in those. It's my legs that start to hurt first with the forward controls position.  Personally, I'd get a decent pair of pants before throwing money at the seat.
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Mar 9, 2009 17:00
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dietcokefiend posted:As I was putting my new choke cable on today which ended up being a horrible idea that failed, I noticed a wire harness that connected to the clutch handle pivot point. What on the bike would care that the clutch is being used and need a signal during that time? The safety switch that won't let you start your bike in gear without the clutch being held.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:00
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Yup, same with my Kawasaki EN500. My buddies 70-something (78?) Honda Hawk works that way, too.
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Mar 12, 2009 04:50
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Bad Munki posted:
I putted around some Kawasaki forums and it seems to be in the $1500 range.
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Mar 12, 2009 23:17
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Photoshop ahead
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Christoff posted:I'm guess I'll need a torque wrench and spark plug gapper. Anything else? You'll probably also need feeler gauges if you adjust your valve clearance. That's all I've ever needed to work on my bike, though I haven't tackled replacing my chain, yet.
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Mar 16, 2009 03:35
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Malpenix Blonia posted:Does anyone know of a good place to get tiny metric o-rings? I killed one of the ones that interfaces with the pilot screws with carb cleaner and the bike doesn't seem to like going without them. I don't know what material you need, but McMaster has packs of o-rings for sale in those dimensions. Not sure if you really want to spend $6+ on 25-100 o-rings when you only need one, though.
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Apr 6, 2009 00:53
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Spartak posted:In all black I think the gladius looks kinda decent How are bikes like this or the naked SV650 on the interstate? I love the looks of standards without all the plastics, but I keep looking at the Versys for interstate riding. I mean, they have to be better than my small cruiser with absolutely no wind protection, but I'm completely sick of getting really tired after a couple hours at 70 mph.
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Apr 7, 2009 18:21
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Z3n posted:I find naked bikes way more comfortable than cruisers in terms of windblast for extended riding. YMMV. Oh, I definitely see that. I get a little tired from the wind hitting my chest, but my legs sticking out in the wind are the first things to give me pain. What I really need to do is figure out how to trade a four year old Vulcan 500 for a newish Versys without losing money as I don't have a job right now.
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Apr 7, 2009 18:40
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Z3n posted:Step 1: Sell Vulcan Shouldn't I use a Ninja 650 instead?
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Apr 7, 2009 22:26
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Bean_ posted:Right, I understand the clutch and so for and so on, as I drive a manual car. When you're moving, you can clutch in and shift up or down through all the gears. That's what they teach you at the MSF course when emergency stopping so you are in first gear when you stop (clutch all the way in, threshold braking, and shifting down with your foot). If you, say, stop in third gear, it's a bit difficult to get back down to first. If I gently caress up and stop in a high gear, I need to go down a gear and feather the clutch a bit before the transmission will allow me to go down another.
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Apr 8, 2009 05:13
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