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I wear some leather lace up boots with decent non-slip soles. They have no real ankle protection, though.
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Apr 14, 2009 14:26
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ari.gato posted:Stupid question, but what is that tape called that you see wrapped around exhaust pipes on cafe racers and streetfighters and such? And where can I get some? Usually called something like header wrap or exhaust wrap. You can get it pretty much anywhere.
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Apr 14, 2009 18:37
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OrangeCrush posted:Question to motorcycle goons, would you ride from Florida to Connecticut on a 96 rebel 250? If I had the time, yes.
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Apr 15, 2009 18:30
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Odd little thing with my Honda CB250: neutral is almost impossible to hit unless I'm moving. All other shifting is fine except going into Neutral whilst standing still. Happened all the time at the MSF class. Sometimes happens on my Vulcan. What I do is put the bike in 1st, preload the lever, roll the bike forward, and then lift it into N. For some reason I can get it every time when the rear wheel is turning and it's second nature now.
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Apr 17, 2009 00:58
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sklnd posted:From time to time my EX250 won't go into neutral without letting the clutch out and bringing it back in. Its annoying because I typically have to turn the bike off to do that, otherwise I'd end up rolling into stuff. This typically happens when I come to a stop in a gear other than 1st or 2nd and have to downshift a bit without moving. If my bike won't go into a gear (stopping in 3rd and trying to get into 1st, for example), I too need to let up on the clutch. However, I hold the brake when I do it and don't let it out enough to stall the engine. Just a little bit until the revs start to drop a bit.
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Apr 17, 2009 01:50
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Segue: I don't ride with other people, so have no idea what's "normal" and what's not. Is it weird, or bad for the bike, to often hold the clutch lever and just coast? I'm used to driving an automatic, so completely letting off the throttle and holding in the clutch doesn't bother me. But when I tried learning a stick-shift car my buddy went ballistic saying "you can't just hold in the clutch and coast at 65mph, you need to stay in gear and just lightly hold the gas to stay at speed." Don't do this. Put the bike in whatever gear you want to be in and hold the throttle steady to maintain speed. I've never heard of anyone coasting at 65 mph. I'd imagine it'd be hell on your clutch.
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Apr 17, 2009 06:13
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I gathered that he was doing this on flat roads, clutching in and out to maintain speed instead of staying in gear and maintaining throttle. It wasn't the coasting that I meant was doing the damage, but the constant clutch engagement. And, so you know, I'm in IL. The longest hill I encounter is a 1/4 mile long down toward a river and I stay on the gas the whole way 'cause I like to go fast down the hill.
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Apr 17, 2009 06:51
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sklnd posted:Even at 50mpg, the 4.8gal tank should get you at least 200 miles before hitting reserve, and that's at 5mpg lower than I've ever seen on mine. Usually I'm in the high 50s/low 60s depending on what I've been doing. My Vulcan is like that. I get around 120 miles out of a tank before hitting reserve and 50 mpg. According the specs, I have a 4 gallon tank and should only be hitting reserve with 0.5 gallons left. The reserve cutoff comes a bit earlier than specified and because I hate pushing it, I fill up as soon as I hit it.
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Apr 17, 2009 20:08
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darknrgy posted:What do I do with used coolant in CA? I'm not in CA, but I took mine to Pep Boys. They took it as it was less than a gallon. I would call around first as the first place I went wouldn't take it.
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Apr 21, 2009 05:06
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After 500 miles, I wouldn't flog it too hard or keep it pegged at redline for long periods of time, but I wouldn't hesitate using the entire power band as I saw fit. Those engines can take a beating. Just be sure to change your oil soonish.
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Apr 21, 2009 23:15
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2ndclasscitizen posted:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Except "There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!" means that this is completely useless to someone who already has over 500 miles on their bike. dongsweep posted:Can someone tell me what the -C+ and -R+ represent in this picture? Compression and rebound damping, I believe.
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Apr 22, 2009 17:27
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Bob Morales posted:I would imagine there's a forum (or eBay) where you can find a whole wheel for $100 or less, and you'll probably get a tire with it. I was going to suggest the same thing. I looked up spokes for my Vulcan and it's $2.09 a spoke. I'd just get a new wheel.
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Apr 23, 2009 18:10
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CoolBlue posted:Oh god please don't leave it in the rain. As said, buy a cover or a storage unit if it isn't your main form of transportation. You REALLY don't want to leave it in the rain. I've been leaving mine in the rain on and off for four years now with little problem. I have a tiny bit of surface rust in a handful of places and that's it. It's just water; the bike isn't going to melt from it. I do have a cover that I try to get on if rain is forecasted, but I'm lazy sometimes. And it's ripped. I don't leave it out in the snow, however. It's tucked away nice and safe for the winter.
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Apr 30, 2009 02:30
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I'll be sure to hurry and replace those two slightly rusty bolts on my bike now that you've said something.
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Apr 30, 2009 02:52
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Doctor Zero posted:Yay! Another person advising everyone else to do follow their bad habits because they are lucky enough to have seemingly avoided repercussions! Hey, I'm not saying he should leave it out in the rain every day for years upon years, just that the bike will survive out in the rain once in a while. I make no claim that I care about my bikes appearance. It's not like I'm telling him to leave a helmet at home or to ride on tires with no thread left because someone somewhere did it and nothing bad happened.
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Apr 30, 2009 04:47
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BlueBayou posted:Also if you put a cover over your bike just after riding, won't it burn the cover? Mine melted some holes in the cover, but there are a couple of heat resistant panels in the cover that seem to have worked decently to minimize the damage. The worst is where the pipes connect to the engine as that was a bit above the panels and it melted through. I've never had my cover melt on my engine. I do have a cruiser with really big mufflers running down low on both sides of the bike, however, so you're mileage will vary on how much damage a hot pipe will do to a cover.
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Apr 30, 2009 06:54
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Bob Morales posted:A friend of mine is asking why motorcycles generally run higher pressure in the rear tire than the front, when it seems in cars that people generally run higher pressure in the front than the rear. Because the front of a car is heavier due to the engine being there, so you put in more air to compensate. On a motorcycle, the rear is generally heavier.
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May 5, 2009 16:57
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Bukanza posted:What <= 500cc cruiser would be a comfortable ride for a 6'3" dude buying his first bike? I fear a Rebel and Virago would be too cramped. A Vulcan 500 will probably be a too cramped for you, too. I'd look toward a Shadow 650 at least. 650 through 800/900 cc twin cruisers should be okay for a beginner, if only a little heavy.
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May 6, 2009 23:34
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Z3n posted:I always fill mine to bottom of the fill cap. I also fill mine with the bike upright, sitting on it, because otherwise you'll never get the tank actually full. You could use the centerstand on your 250 if you felt so inclined. After a little while you'll get used to tailing off the pressure on the lever so that you can do it without splashing gas everywhere. It depends on the bike. On my Vulcan, you fill it on the side stand because the cap is set slightly to the side of the tank. On the side stand, the cap is at the highest point. The problem is that you can't top it off 'cause when the bike is upright, the cap is at a slightly lower position and gas spills out of the overfill tube.
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May 15, 2009 19:01
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How slippery is cut grass to ride on? I've been avoiding it every time I come across it (pretty often in the summer when riding around the farms) thinking it'd be slippery, but I'm not sure if I should worry about it or not.
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May 21, 2009 00:20
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dietcokefiend posted:Wet or dry? If you are careful and you aren't riding something super heavy I dont think it would be a problem. The few times I have driven my zx600 over my front lawn I didn't notice any feeling like it was going to slip out from under me. I dont know if I would try booking it at like 40 though. It's freshly cut grass all over the road. It would be slightly damp until it dries out, I imagine. I'm just mostly worried about hitting it in a corner, though I avoid most of it in straight lines. I treat it like wet leaves, currently, but I have to worry about it all year round instead of just the fall.
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May 21, 2009 01:05
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dietcokefiend posted:Hahahaha well cut grass all over a road is another topic entirely. There is a road that I like to ride on that gets 2 corners covered in grass from some asshat mowing there lawn. Every single time the rear tire starts to get a slipping feeling as I go over it. K. I'll continue avoiding it, then. Thanks. Everyone here seems to just push yard waste on the street. There's a scenic drive near me full of expensive houses and their idea of raking the leaves is blowing them into the road. I don't expect people to bag grass when they live on a farm in the boonies, however.
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May 21, 2009 03:05
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TheReverend posted:I'm thinking about getting a bike but I know very little about them. I kinda liked the Suzuki S40, but the tiny tank and single cylinder engine wouldn't have worked for my riding. The S50, C50, or M50 should all be good for beginners. Also in the same range are Honda Shadows, the smaller Yamaha/Star V Stars, or the Kawasaki Vulcan 500 or 900. I personally got the Vulcan 500 for the small size, high revving engine, and six speed transmission, but you should sit on them all to see what's comfortable.
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May 29, 2009 04:03
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The Buell Blast has an automatic choke so you never have to fiddle. My bike will start without a choke if it's above 80 degrees outside though it will run rough for a few minutes. Above 90 degrees, it starts and runs fine without a choke. (When the engine is cold. Runs fine once it's warmed up.)
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Jun 1, 2009 18:00
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I have a spray bottle that says "Cable Lube" on it that I bought at the dealer.
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Jul 1, 2009 17:23
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fromoutofnowhere posted:bobbers From the website: "We currently have kits for the Honda Shadow 600, Honda Rebel 250, Yamaha Vstar 600, and the Kawasaki Vulcan 800." Any of those bikes would be alright for a beginner, the Rebel obviously being the cheapest. The Shadow and the Vstar should be able to do 70 mph without too much hassle and the Vulcan will do it with ease.
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Jul 7, 2009 17:32
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On my Vulcan, it's extremely difficult to go up or down more than one gear when the bike is standing still, whether or not the engine is running. With the engine off, rolling the bike helps. With the engine on, letting up on the clutch slightly between shifts works.
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Jul 11, 2009 04:16
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Get an EZPass: https://www.ezpassva.com/Default.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 I have an IPass in IL and have never stopped for a toll on my bike. I also have an EZ Toll mesh pouch: http://www.meshproducts.net/eztoll/ Makes my windshield look nicer in my car and lets me strap it to my luggage or handlebars on my bike.
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Jul 11, 2009 20:19
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chryst posted:Yeah, that's the correct answer, I guess. Well, the $35 is going to be there for you to use, but you won't see the $25 deposit unless you return the device. If you go through them infrequently, I would prepare exact change in a separate pocket or a tank bag. And I would stop at manned booths (if you can) so as not to piss off the people behind you when digging around for change. Or, if the system is like the one in IL, run the things, call the toll free number when you get home, and pay over the phone.
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Jul 11, 2009 21:29
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DiscoKid posted:Another newb question, I'm sure, but what should I be aiming for as I down-shift? I usually drop down to first as I come to a stop from any speed. I'm afraid I'll stall it if I leave it in anything other than whatever gear I'm at or first if I slow down to a near stop. Should I be working down as I come to a stop, wait until I stop to fully down-shift, or what? If coming to a stop slowly, I'll downshift as I go along using the engine braking to help slow me down. In an emergency stop, I clutch in and slam down through the gears all the way into first. You should definitely be going down to first before coming to a complete stop. If you don't you will have a hard problem getting it there. If you stop at a too high gear, pressing the shift lever will not get you anywhere. You will need to let up on the clutch a tiny bit between each shift. It takes a bit of time and people behind you will be pissed.
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Jul 13, 2009 08:37
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blugu64 posted:No need for shims on the 250, you just have to adjust the tappets, There's a factory tool that makes it a bit easier that I bought and really like, but if you've got a good tool set you should be fine. Where do you get this special tool? There are four valves that you can't reach with a wrench on the Vulcan 500, which means using a socket, which means you can't hold the adjustment screw while tightening. I've done it, but it requires a bunch of trial and error to get right. The FAQ says a non-Kawasaki tool won't work on the Ninja 250; I wonder if that's true for my Vulcan.
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Jul 13, 2009 18:38
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frozenphil posted:Since they don't list it it's hard to tell if they mean RON or PON. 91 RON = 87 PON. It's a European site, so I would assume that, also.
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Jul 14, 2009 04:08
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Halo_4am posted:Speaking of wipers though, they actually have riding gloves out there with a wiper surface built into the pinky side for wiping water off your helmet. I've never used them though so I can't say if they're worth a drat. I had some that sucked, but the gloves were cheap anyway. Not sure if more expensive gloves would have better wipers.
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Jul 16, 2009 18:31
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This has bugging me all year (I haven't noticed it the previous years). When going a big-ish bump in the road at 50+ mph, my bike feels like it's braking. At first, I thought I was inadvertently cutting the throttle, but I no longer think so; A) I've been conscious of my throttle hand and if I'm closing it, it's only a tiny bit and B) purposefully closing the throttle on a straight road produces only a fraction of the deceleration. I have no idea what else would cause the bike to decel when going over big bumps. Could it being fuel related? Electrical? I don't know where to start looking. It doesn't help that you have to be moving at speed to recreate it.
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Jul 17, 2009 04:46
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What's this part called/do? It has two wires going to it and then a cable going to the spark plug, one for each cylinder. Obviously it delivers power to the spark plug, but does it work like a capacitor to store a charge and smooth it out? Does it do something to ramp up the voltage? Click here for the full 800x600 image. It's pretty much the only thing I can't identify while digging around.
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Jul 20, 2009 05:35
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Nerobro posted:It's called a coil. It's a special type of transformer that steps up the 12v of your electrical system to 15-30,000v for your spark plugs. In your case, it looks like a CDI coil... How much detail do you want? That's about all I wanted to know. Thanks.
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Jul 20, 2009 17:22
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I'm hearing some noise coming from my engine (I think). It sounds like a sewing machine and seems to be coming from the valves on the right cylinder. It increases with RPMs. I took the valve cover off and adjusted everything to the loose side of the tolerances. I changed the oil and coolant while I was at it. The spark plugs are the originals with 13,000 miles, but they look good and are gapped correctly. The sewing machine noise is still there. Maybe I'm just hearing a noise that I didn't notice before, but it being louder on one side of the engine makes me think it's something new. It's loud enough for my friend to mention it when we were riding around town together. Kawasaki 500cc parallel twin engine. Instead of getting Kawasaki's valve adjustment tool (about $40), I got a $20 set of pass through sockets and a thin screwdriver. Works well and useful for things other than adjusting valves.
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Jul 21, 2009 01:15
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Cam chain is right in the middle. The acoustics may be making it seem like it's coming from the right side. I haven't touched that at all since I bought the bike, if that makes a difference.
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Jul 21, 2009 03:24
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dietcokefiend posted:Well leaving in an few hours probably around lunch time. For those of you with an iPass, can that thing just be stored in a jacket pocket to work, or does it need to be out? When I signed my motorcycle up, I asked the lady. She said you can keep it in your pocket. I know I did that once, but I didn't check the records to see if it actually picked up. I rode through them last week without having the iPass at all trusting them to pick up my license plate to bill me accordingly.
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Jul 24, 2009 15:45
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I leave it in park, partially because that's how I was taught, partially because I leave my car in park, partially because I like to kill the engine before parking and just coasting in with the clutch pulled in and then just hopping off. When I start the bike to let it warm up, I walk around and kick it up into N.
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Jul 27, 2009 00:31
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