|
Spiffness posted:Yank it off, scrub the crap out of it, flat black heat paint + heat wrap = badass Phat_Albert posted:Clean the pipes and paint them up. Chairon posted:For the pipe itself, I'd just sand then paint. ari.gato posted:This. I did this with my exhaust system. I bought one all rusty and broken for $100. sanded the rust off, cleaned it, put a high temp flat black on it, cured it, then heat wrapped it, then silicon sprayed the wrap. I don't think you'll have rust problems if you do it that way. Mine isn't as rusty as the walkin dude's, but I was going to tackle painting it this spring. Any tips on what paint to use? I wasn't thinking of wrapping it, so do I need a clear coat on it? I saw a site that sold exhaust paint and it recommended a clear coat. Would it be okay to cure it on the bike (run the bike until the exhaust gets hot)? Also, the chrome that's left will sand off, right? Also, I have a small hole on each tube. I was thinking of finding something like this to patch it up. Should it go on before or after the paint?
|
#
¿
Mar 6, 2010 06:32
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 09:18 |
|
|
Shempt_The_Mighty posted:Can a windshield cause a bike to become unstable over 40 mph? I put a small spitfire windshield on, and I had to fight to keep the drat thing on the road. The day is a little windy, but it almost felt like I had a ton of air pushing me off the side of the road. If it clamps to your triple-t, then sure. Wind would put additional torque into your steering as if you were turning the handlebars.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2010 22:25
|
|
|
Weinertron posted:I guess ultimately as long as my GP says it won't destroy the ankle any more, this decision will be made at a training course. That's what I would suggest. Most MSF courses are not that expensive, so no big loss if you try and can't do it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2010 20:09
|
|
|
If it's cold, I ride with my hand cupping my nuts. Hand warms nuts. Tank blocks wind from hitting my hand.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2010 18:24
|
|
|
If it's like the auto tensioner on my Vulcan, the shaft (hehe) is "ratcheted", meaning it can push out but not be pushed back in. When you take it off the bike, there is no force pushing against the shaft and the spring will push it out all the way. From what I gathered from the manual (mine was slightly different than in the manual), you put the tensioner on with a screwdriver in there preventing the shaft from extending until the whole thing is assembled, then release the spring. It will push against the chain with the proper force and chain will prevent it from extending all the way. I'm assuming with yours, you would put it on, relax the tension so the cam chain can push the shaft in, then release the tension so the shaft and chain can come to an equilibrium.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2010 03:03
|
|
|
Are shims that much of a PITA? I have screw adjusters on my bike and it's definitely harder to remove the tank, drain all the coolant, remove a half dozen hoses, and then angle the valve cover just so to clear both the engine and the frame (takes at least three tries every time I do it), than it is to turn eight screws and jam nuts. If I'm checking the clearance, I'm adjusting it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2010 17:16
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:The reality of all this is that if you want to clutchless shift on the street because it makes you feel like Valentino, or because you have tiny babby hands that cant work the clutch, fine, but all you're really doing is shifting your transmission when its not completely unloaded (its not every single time, trust me) and putting more wear and tear on it than you need to. I definitely don't do it all the time, but I have practiced up and down clutchless shifting a few times to get a feel for it. I think it's good to know how to do it in case your clutch cable breaks on you while you're moving so you can slow down decently.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2010 03:39
|
|
|
It won't hurt, but it won't do anything without heavy modifications, either.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2010 19:34
|
|
|
Jack the Smack posted:Everyone tells me to ride before to warm up the chain, so that the chain is hot and can absorb the oil better. I lube it after warming up the chain myself. I use the spray on poo poo and it seems to flow better into the crevices of the chain. If the chain's cold, than it just globs on and doesn't go anywhere. It's a PITA on the Vulcan 500 because I have exhaust on both sides of the bike, so I clean it when it's cold to avoid getting burned, then ride around, then lube it when it's warm. Takes way too long.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2010 07:04
|
|
|
Hey, I, too, have problems with a 500 cc Kawasaki engine. 2007 Vulcan 500. I got the bike out for the first time this year (I know, I know) today. I stored it with Sta-Bil in the tank. This weekend, I took off the exhaust, painted it, and put it back on. I charged the battery overnight. I ran the engine at idle 10 minutes, let it cool, then at idle for 20 minutes (to cure the paint). Checked the oil and tires and left for Peoria. I was about 12 miles from my parents', doing about 90 mph on the interstate, when I suddenly lost power (no sputtering or gradual loss). WOT barely kept the bike at 65-70 mph. I pulled into an oasis and the bike stalled when I grabbed the clutch. I popped my tank cap thinking it was a clogged vent (had that happen before) and eventually got the bike started, but it idled (with the tank cap still open) at a very, very low speed. I turned up the idle air screw 'til it idled okay and let it idle for a few minutes. When I tried to pull away, I had almost no power or acceleration. I ended up calling a tow as I didn't want to risk taking it back on the interstate. I did start the engine again while waiting and the engine sounded like it was only running at 1/4 max RPM when I tried going WOT in the parking lot. I won't be able to get to the bike again for a couple of weeks, but I will take all suggestions into consideration while I look for the culprit. Uthor fucked around with this message at 08:08 on May 4, 2010 |
|
#
¿
May 4, 2010 08:05
|
|
|
Don't know about that specifically, but WD-40 took off baked on asphalt without damaging my paint (as in, I rode down a street over freshly poured and still liquid asphalt that proceeded to bake onto every surface it could). Chain lube cooked on my muffler didn't stand a chance, either. I didn't spray the stuff onto any rubber gaskets or anything like that, but it seemed fine on paint and metal.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2010 06:49
|
|
|
Big box of 200 foam pairs that Mom picked up from McMaster for about $15.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2010 17:45
|
|
|
Ola posted:I wonder if those custom molded guys would help make a plug with a hole for my earbuds. I have no recommendations on where you can find them, but when I looked at custom ear plugs a couple years back, I found a few websites that talked about custom ear phones. The first site on Google is run by Logitech with custom ones going up to $1300, but I'm sure there's something cheaper out there.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2010 16:52
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Hey, I, too, have problems with a 500 cc Kawasaki engine. 2007 Vulcan 500. This is from a couple weeks ago. Today I checked the air box (dirty filter, but nothing inside) and the petcock (seems to flow fine; is there a procedure for checking if the vacuum is working?). The battery seems low on fluid, but it charged, started, and ran the bike fine at idle for 30+ minutes. Stupidly, I took everything apart before checking the electronics. Anyway, that's not really the question. When I pulled the bike out this morning, there was some coolant on the fins of the engine. There's a small hole on either side of the block between a couple of fins and the coolant seems to have come from here. What are the holes for? How is coolant coming out of here? Here are a couple of blurry pictures. I would take better ones, but the batteries on the camera died. Coolant on the engine: .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Hole it's coming from: .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2010 01:32
|
|
|
To be clear, mine's not "pissing coolant." I have plenty in the bike. It's just that little bit on the engine, and few drops lower, and none on the ground.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2010 05:35
|
|
|
Bugdrvr posted:Is it possible those holes are drain holes in case your spark plug wells get filled with water? If that's what they are then there is probably a coolant hose or something to that effect leaking above your cylinder head. Yeah, that's probably it. I may have spilled some coolant down there last time I took the valve cover off. I went to pull the spark plugs to see if they offered any clues to my problems. The left one took way more force to remove than I expected, which is weird 'cause I torque it down properly with a torque wrench. I get it out and think I found the cause of my woes. .JPG) Click here for the full 900x1200 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. (I was having some problem getting proper focus, so the images are blurry.) Now I know what my problem is, but I don't know what caused this damage. I also don't know if there's damage further down (cylinder, valves, etc). For comparison, here's the other spark plug. .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Looks a little dark to me, but I'm not really sure.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2010 23:57
|
|
|
The NonBornKing posted:That looks like the spark plug is too long. Are you sure that one is the same size as the others? They're the stock plugs. It may look long from the angle and that they are still in the spark plug socket when I took the pictures. The bike is supposed to run 87 octane, which is what I've always ran in it.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2010 00:06
|
|
|
Binge posted:2 questions: -Check your battery. My buddy's blinkers stopped blinking when his battery died (he would kick start it). Seems like there wasn't enough current to get the blinking to go. In your case, I'm guessing the batt is a little low and it takes a little bit for the charging system to get it working right. -Better than nothing and probably good enough for your purposes.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2010 01:51
|
|
|
Gnomad posted:I wish the news was better. Hey, at least I know where the problem is. I was worried I wouldn't find anything, leaving me with a bike that doesn't run for reasons I can't figure out. Now it's on to scary things like carbs and engine internals. Actually, if the piston is hosed, I'm probably better off just letting a pro deal with it.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2010 07:25
|
|
|
Looking at Bike Bandit's schematics, the older 250 tensioners seem like a different design from the new ones. Can you take a picture of the one on your bike?
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2010 01:28
|
|
|
That looks like a completely different design than the one APE's parts replace. Also, the holes are not in the same place, so it won't bolt in. Sorry.
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2010 02:35
|
|
|
MROUWMPGH posted:is there a reason for a lack of VStar love? There's mostly sportbike riders on here. Not a lot of cruiser guys. Otherwise, I don't know of any reason why you shouldn't get one.
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2010 04:21
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Hey, at least I know where the problem is. I was worried I wouldn't find anything, leaving me with a bike that doesn't run for reasons I can't figure out. So I've got the bike that ate the spark plug a few weeks ago. Next time I get the chance, I'm going to take the head off and see if there's any damage to the piston. Also, I'm going to take the carbs off to see if there's anything gunked up. So, my question, is what do I need to buy to rebuild a carb? It's a 2007 Vulcan 500 (Kawasaki 500 cc parallel twin engine with dual carbs). This is the only thing I've found, but it seems to be for one cylinder and I don't know if I need all the parts included: http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Kawasaki-EN500-EX500-ZX600-Ninja-Carb-Kit?sc=2&category=126
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2010 07:18
|
|
|
Binge posted:I thought I wanted a cruiser (which is why I went after the Shadow), but the more I ride, the less I'm into it. I don't want a full blown sport bike like a Ninja or GSXR type deals. Would something like a Suzuki SV650 be a good choice? Well, what kind of riding do you do/want to do? An SV650 or a Ninja 650 are both friendly bikes with relaxed ergos (or so I'm told). You could also look at the Suzuki GS500 or Ninja 500. I'm actually in the same boat as you as the cruiser isn't really suiting me (and is currently broken) and the 650s are on my short list. I'm also looking at things like the Versys that are even more relaxed than the SV or the Ninja, made more for eating up miles than running around town. Or there's a few good bikes out there designed for taking dirt roads and mild off-roading. As for tools, did you not get a tool kit with the bike? All I have ever needed for minor maintenance is a screwdriver and a couple of metric sockets. 90% of the time, I just grab the 8 mm and 10 mm sockets and am good to go. Hell, other than four allen head screws holding the mufflers on and two 12 mm bolts holding the tank, I can disassemble most of the bike with those two sockets. If I were you, I'd get a cheap metric socket set from Harbor Freight and use that until it breaks or I need to add to it. You will probably also need a couple of small wrenches to get at the throttle cables, so if you see a cheap set, pick it up. As for the headlight, are you certain you have to swivel the whole thing? I thought the same thing with my bike, but it turns out there's a couple of small screws on the underside of the housing. Turning them swivels the light either up and down or left and right. I think it's the standard setup. Uthor fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Jun 13, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2010 13:01
|
|
|
Binge posted:I definitely need a socket to remove the bolt for the housing part. This bike is old, it's an '83, and it actually doesnt even have the other bolt on the other side. But it is very stable and attached firmly, so I dunno. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but I'm always into learning! I still don't think you need to remove the housing. Look around underneath the light for two small screws. Turn those to aim the light. My friend's early 80's Honda has adjustment screws like that.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2010 18:30
|
|
|
What Ola said. I personally slow down by downshifting, but I just hold the clutch in the whole time if I'm coming to a stop. I guess it depends on how fast I need to stop. Remember if you're just using engine braking, your brake lights don't shine. You will want to at least feather the brake lever if there's a car behind you so they don't drive up your rear end.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2010 18:43
|
|
|
First thought: your throttle cable is binding on something. Maybe because you close the throttle quickly when coming to a stop quickly? Spray some lube down there. there's two cables that go under the tank and come out in between the carbs behind the engine. You need to take the box on the right handlebar apart to get to the ends of the cables and that's a bit of a bitch. Pay attention to how it goes together and be gentle. Don't force it when you put it back together.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2010 16:48
|
|
|
americanzero4128 posted:I bought the motorcycle and I'm going to get it on Saturday. I live in the north suburbs of Chicago, IL. I've done some looking online and can't find a straight answer for what I will need in regards to getting a license for a motorcycle. I know that I need to get a motorcycle license, and it doesn't seem like something that I can just go to the DMV and take a driving test for, similar to a regular driver's license. Of course I can't find a DMV website that isn't non affiliated and can give me a straight answer. The closest I've found is that I will have to get a learner's permit for 3 months, ride with that, and then get my regular license, but then I found this site that offers a motorcycle training class and then lets me get my license pretty close to soon after Motorcycle riding school. You can go in and take a written test to get a permit. You can go in and take written and practical tests to get a license. There's no need to have a permit for x months. Approved classes will get you out of having to take these tests. I'm not sure if Ride Chicago is approved (the site does not load for me). After I took my class, I got my certificate that day, walked into the DMV the next, and walked out with an "M" license. Some places that offer classes are not approved. For example, there's some Harley dealerships that offer classes, but then you still have to go to the DMV to pass their tests. You should check out the MSF site for RiderCourse locations: http://nm.msf-usa.org/msf/ridercourses.aspx?state=IL (This page didn't exist when I took my course, but it seems like a list of approved instructors in the state.) Also, you can take a course directly from the MSF. It's the best $20 you'll spend. However, you'll have to wait until spring to register and classes fill up fast. Not ideal if you want to ride as soon as possible. Being in Northern Chicago, you'll want to look at either the UIUC (covers Cook County) or NIU (covers points just outside of Cook County) sites.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2010 08:33
|
|
|
Legerdemain posted:Cool, thanks. Whenever I see a speed trap in the other direction I think "Oh my God, this is it!! The ultimate sign of biker solidarity and I can finally earn my keep in the rider community!" And then no other riders ever pass. And if one does, it's always some dude in a high-vis suit in the first lane. I just want to help, drat it! Just watch this to learn everything you need to know about waving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SloT-TahbiQ There needs to be a "hey, your turn signal is on" wave.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2010 08:13
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Handling-wise, would it be of any benefit for a bike to have the front wheel be powered? I guess it'd have to be a system that does more than merely drive the front and rear wheels at the same speed at all times. I read an article about an AWD off-road bike. It didn't really handle much differently most of the time, but it did help during low traction situations and hill climbs. Not sure mow much benefit it's be on a road bike. Any advantage would probably be negated by the added weight.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2011 23:00
|
|
|
infraboy posted:Even if it's a dry clutch? "Drag on the clutch" is wrong. In neutral, the clutch is engaged. It's drag of the fluid in the transmission on the gears as they spin near each other.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2011 19:25
|
|
|
Isn't that around the time the government changed the way HP was calculated? I remember a lot of cars losing HP around the same time.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2011 06:51
|
|
|
Russian Bear posted:I think youre thinking mpg not hp. Hmm, maybe. For some reason I recall hearing about the Civic Si that came out in 2006 making slightly under 200 hp instead of slightly over because of some change in standard of how it was measured. Didn't see anything Googling to confirm, though "horsepower" and "calculation" just comes up HP calculators. EDIT: Found something! quote:An even 200 was the planned horsepower rating, but the new SAE ratings system cut that number back to 197 hp at 7,800 rpm. EDIT2: And this led to Wikipedia: https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Horsepower#SAE_certified_power Uthor fucked around with this message at 08:01 on May 17, 2011 |
|
#
¿
May 17, 2011 07:56
|
|
|
I took the class in IL. Friday, you will sit in class and go over administrative stuff and some basics. Saturday will be a mix of class and practice. The first thing you do is learn to walk the bike around. The second thing you do is practice the clutch with your feet on the ground, rocking back and forth. It moves slowly from there. Cannot get more basic. I'd go over more details, but it's seriously geared to people who haven't seen a bike before. Go and enjoy yourself!
Uthor fucked around with this message at 04:44 on May 27, 2011 |
|
#
¿
May 27, 2011 04:42
|
|
|
Did you just fillup on gas? I've had that happen and it turned out i put in too much fuel and wasn't getting any air into the tank. Too much vaccuum built up for the engine to draw fuel and it shut off. Pop the gas cap open and relieve the pressure.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2011 06:40
|
|
|
Chris Knight posted:Quickie question about mufflers & pipes: what can I use for gasket material to help seal the area where the clamps go on? There was some reddish gunk on there when I bought it, but I've taken the mufflers off a few times, so most of it just crumbled away. The red stuff is probably RTV gasket sealant. Use sparingly as it gets everywhere and sticks good. Don't want any getting into your engine.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2011 06:42
|
|
|
Zelda posted:I'm wondering, should I worry about having trouble with the bikes that might be at the classes if I have a bit of trouble lifting? Are they generally heavy bikes? Maybe I should start lifting something with my arms. Just an FYI: you don't lift a bike with your arms. Squat next to it with your butt against the seat, use your arms for stability, and lift with your legs. There's YouTube videos out there, but I can't really look for one away from the computer.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2011 03:19
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've been working on an old BSA dirt bike at the shop recently, doing a total teardown, and discussing it with the boss who is a British bike guy. I was dumbfounded to hear there were no less than 3 British fastener standards in use, all different from metric and SAE, sometimes all 3 on the same bike/car, into the 1970s. I was designing hydraulics for something being built in Europe. In addition to the 3 or 4 US hydraulic component thread standards, I had to deal with their metric versions PLUS a British standard that no one else uses.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2011 01:20
|
|
|
Not LA specific and it tends toward "adventure" bikes, but ADV Rider has a good sized classified section. You'll have to utilize the search engine to get bikes in your area, though. It's not broken down in any way.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2011 05:40
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 09:18 |
|
|
I'm thinking about getting a RAM mount for my phone to use in my car. However, it would be usable on a motorcycle, too. Would a generic cradle work on a bike, or would a Finger Grip holder be better?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2011 22:05
|
|