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If you have done any sort of road biking or mt biking that can go up to 30 depending on terrain, a helmet and decent gloves are probably good enough for most circumstances. I would probably get something better than a standard bicycle helmet, but full body armor would be overkill.
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Nov 21, 2008 18:09
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LifeSizePotato posted:What is usually the consensus from the ATGATT crowd on mopeds? I don't see a lot of moped riders around to gauge for myself, but I would imagine a bicycle helmet might be the extent of protection for most riders? 30mph top speed, I'd rock a leather jacket in the older style, motocross knee pads under jeans, gloves, and some sort of full face helmet, and some form of ankle protection, although most riding boots would probably...not be that great. I've picked up way more scars from mountain biking and road biking than I have motorcycles.
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Nov 21, 2008 18:26
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quote:What is usually the consensus from the ATGATT crowd on mopeds? The Austin guys I talked to said that helmets are considered a very good idea in their scene. The guy who totalled his moped that afternoon had been wearing a helmet, so that was pointed out as a good example. Texas Bonded Title poo poo Okay, so I have 2 Expresses and 1 Hobbit I'm looking at, none of which have titles. To register in TX, you must have a title. To get one, you have to go to the DOT office, write them a "why I have no title" letter, get a "Rejection of Title" letter from them ("gently caress off, you aren't getting a title for your gay rear end bike"), take it to a Bond company, and get a bond, then proceed to register as usual, with new title coming in the mail. Wouldn't be terrible, but TX bond companies won't bond any value lower than $6,600, so absolute minimum bond fee is $100, non-refundable. So now I just need to figure if I want to pay $100 and some admin legwork to title a moped. That's kind of a disincentive to buy a $200 Express then. Might end up getting a nicer moped just so I don't feel like a tool for posting a bond. The funny part was people's reactions to the concept: Moped seller: "Mopeds don't need titles, I've never heard of such a thing, and I've had this in the garage for years." DoT clerk: "Why on earth would you buy a motor vehicle without a title? What do you mean they 'just can't find' the title?"  drat TX has lovely moped laws. It's basically legally a motorcycle, just all the title were lost during the Carter administration.
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Nov 21, 2008 20:13
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Thats how mopeds work in Wisconsin too. Everybody and their brother claims that they dont need titles, which is code for "I cant find/dont own the title". Good luck getting a plate without a title in WI, and good luck driving on public streets without a plate.
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Nov 21, 2008 20:19
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Phat_Albert posted:Thats how mopeds work in Wisconsin too. Everybody and their brother claims that they dont need titles, which is code for "I cant find/dont own the title". Good luck getting a plate without a title in WI, and good luck driving on public streets without a plate. In fairness, a lot of CL sellers might honestly believe they don't need titles. Maybe they bought it in a non-title state, or maybe the guy they bought it from said "no title needed." Some of these folks probably just rode them in circles around the block, never got ticketed, and figured they're basically bicycles. What is annoying though is all the CL sellers with 49cc scoots, no brand name mentioned, but lots of "BRAND NEW!!! SAVE GAS $$$!!! NO TITLE OR LICENSE REQUIRED". I don't suppose CL is open to posting warnings like the one for the Housing section, with a blurb up-top explaining relevant laws? It'd be cool to have an "In Texas even 49cc scooters and mopeds must be titled, registered, and operator must have a moped or motorcycle license." Will call this guy I know to ask how the Express and Hobbit prices compare to market. There's nice Express up in Dallas for $200, with title, but that's too far to drive to save $100 on a title bond.
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Nov 21, 2008 20:48
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Small bikes (<50cc) seem to fall into a grey area everywhere. Here in WA you don't need a motorcycle license (but you DO need a driver's license) if the bike has wheels no bigger than 10", an engine smaller than 50cc, and is unable to go more than 30mph. I think they still need to be plated, though I'm not sure, and I don't think they need insurance. But yeah, I've seen more than a few CL ads here of 50cc bikes with "does 40, no license req'd" and the like. People just don't know, and it's not in a seller's best interest to tell people. I got pulled over on my 125cc scooter the other day and the cop didn't ask for my license or registration, even though it says 125cc on the side and he caught me doing "35+" - both of which made it legally a motorcycle. So the sad fact is that you can probably get away without meeting all the laws, so that's what people do, knowingly or not. (though in WA now if you're operating a vehicle without the proper license/endorsement, it's impounded immediately).
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Nov 21, 2008 21:05
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:So the sad fact is that you can probably get away without meeting all the laws, so that's what people do, knowingly or not. (though in WA now if you're operating a vehicle without the proper license/endorsement, it's impounded immediately). Yep, from what I heard the Austin kid who smashed up this week also got ticketed for no license, registration, or insurance. It sounds like the cop wrote up the ticket while waiting for the ambulance to take him in for a broken femur. But drat good thing he had a helmet on. All the more reason not to try and squeeze by past a file of stopped cars... I've got a pretty clean driving record, so I'm willing to put out a few bucks and fill out some forms to keep it that way. EDIT: Talked to an MA guy in town, he advises that a Honda Express, or pretty much any Honda other than a PA50 Hobbit, is ultimately going to be a let-down unless you get it for <$100 with title or whatever. So I'll go look at the Hobbit tomorrow, figure out if I like it or not, and if I don't like it but can haggle the guy down I might try and trade it in for a Pinto they have, which looks a lot like the cafe racer type. It's a little ghetto in that they just flipped the handlebars upside-down to make it pseudo-club, but it's basically a J.C. Penny's store-brand on a Puch frame and engine. It'll run over a grand to get it totally up and running and titled and all, but by the time I need to pay back college loans I'll be several months into a good job anyway. Might as well splurge a bit while I'm still in school. TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Nov 22, 2008 |
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Nov 21, 2008 21:43
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I cannot elbaorate enough on how much I love my hobbit, just saying. 
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Nov 22, 2008 06:00
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Bean_ posted:I cannot elbaorate enough on how much I love my hobbit, just saying. In your area, is $450 okayish for a Hobbit in good structural shape, doesn't run reliably but possibly just some tank rust that needs cleaning, with no title? That's about what I'm looking at this weekend. One mopeder already said "If you buy a Hobbit for $550 and don't want it, I'll give you $650 for it." Apparently the Honda Expresses aren't so hot, but I've heard good things about Hobbits. If I don't dig it, maybe I can trade it towards the Pinto/Puch cafe-style and come out ahead.
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Nov 22, 2008 08:08
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:In your area, is $450 okayish for a Hobbit in good structural shape, doesn't run reliably but possibly just some tank rust that needs cleaning, with no title? There isn't a HUGE moped group in here, so take this with a grain of salt. In Blacksburg the going prices are anywhere from $300 (non running offbrand (Foxi?)) to about $700 for a decent condition batavus. I've seen Kinetics with busted heads for $500. From what I've seen, I think a decent shaped Hobbit would be worth at least $450, if not more in SC/VA, if you're around a college town. I lucked out and paid $20 for my Hobbit. I got it from a professor who just wanted it out of his garage. It didn't run well when I got it, but I only had to do a few things like adjust the pedal chain tensioner, clean out the exhaust out, and get new brake cables. I bought a spare engine, replacement front end, carb, wheel assemblies, etc for like $250 total. If you get it, decide to part it out, and are patient (and advertise on MA) you should be able to get your money back if you don't want to tinker with it anymore at some point and decide to part it out. The carbs/exhaust need to be cleaned in a LOT on the older hobbits, and if it's screwing around, I would bet doing this would do a lot to help reliability. And if that doesn't work, just sell it to the other mopeder.
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Nov 22, 2008 18:19
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Bean_ posted:The carbs/exhaust need to be cleaned in a LOT on the older hobbits, and if it's screwing around, I would bet doing this would do a lot to help reliability. And if that doesn't work, just sell it to the other mopeder. Outstanding, this is just the trouble I'm having. The dude said that he cleaned the carb, it ran fine for a couple days, and then it conked out again. He said since then it runs intermittently. It was his guess that flaking from the tank is getting into the carb, and then either dissovles or works itself out, and then runs again. Should I look into the whole boiling/sealing the tank thing? Maybe do that and then run some carb cleaner through it to see if it does anything? It'd be awesome if this just takes some basic work. It seems in good shape overall, besides not wanting to start. Most parts are there and look undamaged, though needs chain/band covers and a new bezel around the headlight. Paint isn't bad, with some rust splotches but probably 80% overall. I washed the dust off and it looks pretty okay. Dumb waxing question: should I try waxing this, or will the wax do weird things to the corrosion/worn-off spots? Further, all the mgf stickers and such are still in place, will wax damage those? I'd greatly appreciate any advice, will probably go post in MA for starting advice as well. Oh, the stamps also say it's made in Belgium, hadn't realized that it's a Euro bike contracted to Honda. Maybe explains why most Japanese moped don't seem to have a good rep, with the PA50 being the huge exception.  It's a 1978 PA50M, so the 20mph version. Switching to 30mph means basically just buying a 30mph engine to install, so not sure if I should just ride as-is, or maybe look into trading this toward the Pinto/Puch that the local moped shop has, since the guy there expressed interest in a Hobbit if I find one.
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Nov 22, 2008 22:24
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The great thing about Hobbits is that they have a lot of parts available for them, often through a Honda motorcycle dealer! Yes, I can order spares for my 36 year old moped and they are OEM. Cool, huh?pr0zac posted:And on that note its probably a good time to post this video: beat me to it TapTheForwardAssist posted:Should I look into the whole boiling/sealing the tank thing? Maybe do that and then run some carb cleaner through it to see if it does anything? It'd be awesome if this just takes some basic work. 2. Chain/belt covers break all the time. Not worth replacing. I am planning on doing a small run of sheet metal belt/chain covers + footrests/engine covers, but that's neither here nor there. 3. Forget the headlight bucket. It is a plastic piece of poo poo just like the covers. Either house the key mechanism in a metal tube, or just hotwire the drat thing, and then get a cool aftermarket headlight (motorcycle auxiliary/driving lights work well) I recommend cleaning the gas tank out, and then installing an inline fuel filter just to make sure nothing gets into the carb. Getting to the carb is such a pain in the rear end, as I'm sure you know. Don't wax it -- fix it up and ride! I will be powdercoating mine soon, so you might want to go that route if the rust is bad enough. I don't really care about factory stickers and such. MA has a wiki, look there first. Consider trying a variator mod to see if you can squeeze extra speed out of your lame 20mph version. While you're cleaning stuff, don't forget to cook the pipe and remove all the carbon buildup inside. GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Nov 23, 2008 |
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Nov 23, 2008 12:38
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Amir posted:The great thing about Hobbits is that they have a lot of parts available for them, often through a Honda motorcycle dealer! Yes, I can order spares for my 36 year old moped and they are OEM. Cool, huh? I actually cannot get parts through my honda dealerships. The Hobbit is out of their system.  quote:Getting to the carb is such a pain in the rear end, as I'm sure you know. Getting to the carb isn't THAT bad. It only took me like 10 minutes to disassemble the frame with the guide on MA. My second time might have taken 5 minutes, as I knew what I had to do thereafter. quote:While you're cleaning stuff, don't forget to cook the pipe and remove all the carbon buildup inside. THIS. My moped got some poo poo jarred into the exhaust 20 minutes after I first got it started up. Speeds went from 25 to about 5. I had no idea what was wrong. After throwing my exhaust on the grill and  beating it against the cement it worked fine.
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Nov 23, 2008 17:34
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Amir posted:While you're cleaning stuff, don't forget to cook the pipe and remove all the carbon buildup inside. Right, I've heard about theat technique to get the ash out. Is that just so the burned carbon can expediently get away from the cylinder without backblast? I just wasn't immediately aware that the condition of the exhaust has such a huge effect on the speed. For those of us without fire pits or grills, is there any expedient way to get a basic burn going? Just buy a beater junk BBQ from Goodwill? I dimly recall seeing people put some kind of cupped metal dish on cinderblocks and use that for cookouts, but not sure where the metal is salvaged from. Actually, I think I can just tear up part of my backyard (it's just jungle, no grass) and build a little fire-pit. Just got to get enough clearance away from anything flammable, and keep some buckets and an extinguisher handy. I just need hot coals, right? So is it better to build a fire and let it die down, or can I cheat and just hose down grilling briquettes with lighter fluid, torch 'em, and get them down to a dull glow? Best way to manhandle the hot tube? Do I have to bang it out while it's still hot, or can I let it cool down to hand-safe and pick it up to bang it out?
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Nov 23, 2008 21:16
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:For those of us without fire pits or grills, is there any expedient way to get a basic burn going? Just buy a beater junk BBQ from Goodwill? I dimly recall seeing people put some kind of cupped metal dish on cinderblocks and use that for cookouts, but not sure where the metal is salvaged from. I just lighter fluid'ed the hell out of my coals and the inside of the pipes and let the entire thing go up in a ball of flames. The inside of the muffler caught on fire, and you could see the carbon in the exhaust keep the flame going. I wouldn't worry about manhandling the hot pipes. Just get a hot fireball around it and it will cook what it needs to out. Then just let it sit for about 30 minutes or so and go beat it with something with the carbon port open so the ash can get out. I just beat mine on a curb and it worked fine. I went and worked on my kinetics today, and I can totally see how these things were compiled by small people. There is absolutely no room to maneuver to anything. This was my first time feeling around them, so I didn't get to do a bunch, but I did disassemble the frame and so forth. I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb, reassembled everything and got it to run for a little while. Then ran some seafoam though it. Runs a bit better than it did, but that's not saying much. I can't wait to get these two home so I have my father's workshop and not just my little totebag of tools and a parking lot.
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Nov 23, 2008 21:29
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Huh, I kinda got mine running today, though I haven't done any work on it yet. So I took it out today, jury-rigged the headlight bezel with duct-tape, and tried it out. The seller hadn't been able to turn it over when I bought it, but thought I'd see if it was lucky today. I pedaled it a few meters down my driveway, it kicked in smooth, and I got it up to 15mph going up a slight incline. Then I noticed that the rpms weren't going down no matter what I did with the throttle, it was like it was stuck on full-open. I tried flicking Engine Cutoff both directions multiple times, to no effect, and only got it to finally stop by hitting the Compression switch in a moment of desperation, for fear that a runaway moped would carry me into traffic. After that, I turned it around to go back down the hill, but could only hit 10mph even on the downhill. It went about 150m, and then the engine cut out, and I haven't been able to start it since. I hear the magneto (or whatever) going, I hear the initial rumble, I get maybe one or two spastic putts out of it, but it won't turn over. Is this still just par for the course or maybe being just a flaky tank, dirty carb, and dirty exhaust? Actually, the tank was pretty low too, so not sure if it died out due to being down to fumes, but I'm holding off on fuelling up until I can vinegar/nuts-bolts the tank. Any ideas on the throttle's lack of roll-off, and the failure of engine cutoff? Are their respective valves or whatever in the carb probably just coated with gunk, or might their cables not be pulling right?
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Nov 23, 2008 22:47
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Bean_ posted:I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb, reassembled everything and got it to run for a little while. Then ran some seafoam though it. Runs a bit better than it did, but that's not saying much. I can't wait to get these two home so I have my father's workshop and not just my little totebag of tools and a parking lot. TapTheForwardAssist posted:Huh, I kinda got mine running today, though I haven't done any work on it yet.
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Nov 23, 2008 23:20
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Nerobro posted:You have an air leak. I can't tell you where. But it's there. Either behind the carb, part of the intake manifold, the crankcase seals, or even the base gasket of the cylinder. Most likely, it's the intake manifold. That's easily rectified. ;-) Rectified? I nearly killed 'em! Anyway, I assume your wink means that something vaguely tricky can be done about it, but I haven't the foggiest idea what. Having to take apart everything to find a Just for reference, what is it about my symptoms which shouts "air leak"? Just so I can try and visualize how air is getting inside and messing things up.
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Nov 23, 2008 23:36
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Those little bikes are magneto fired, yes? If so, a simple loose connection to the kill switch, or faulty kill switch, would cause you not to be able to stop the engine normally. On a magneto system you ground the magneto, shunting the spark to the frame, so the plug doesn't fire and the engine dies. I had a lawnmower with a broken magneto ground wire. I used a very sophisticated technique to stop it involving levering the spark plug wire off with a stick. Don't underestimate the utility of a stick.
EvilDonald fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Nov 24, 2008 |
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Nov 24, 2008 00:05
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Rectified? I nearly killed 'em! The motor not responding to throttle means it's getting air from somewhere other than the throttle. The kill switch on my peugeot is.. critically disabled. (missing the switch itself...) I use the decompression lever to kill my motor.
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Nov 24, 2008 00:43
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quote:The kill switch on my peugeot is.. critically disabled. (missing the switch itself...) I use the decompression lever to kill my motor. Cool, so I actually guessed right. Then again, I'd already tried everything but the horn to make the engine stop. What exactly does the decompression lever do? Why is it even on my handlebars? My motorcycle doesn't have one. Will it harm the moped to use decompression to kill the motor? quote:Provided your throttle cable isn't sticky. Well, it doesn't spring back to zero throttle when I release it, I need to muscle it back to zero (and even then it didn't seem to reduce throttle). Any chance the cable itself is dicked up? Can I just somehow unhook the throttle cable and clean it well? So the airleak is more "why you have throttle problems" and no so much "why it runs slow, and then cuts out"? I assume I should still clean the tank, clean the carb, and see what that does, yes? If it runs fine even briefly, should I assume the sparkplug is good?
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Nov 24, 2008 01:13
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:What exactly does the decompression lever do? Why is it even on my handlebars? My motorcycle doesn't have one. Will it harm the moped to use decompression to kill the motor? The decompression lever is there to make pedaling the bike easier, for starting purposes. On my bike it's actually labeled "engine stop" Many big single cylinder engines DO have decompression levers. Every single bigger than say 400cc, with a kickstarter, that I've seen has a decompression lever, or at least cam driven automatic decompression. The KTM640, DR650, GN400, CRF450... quote:Well, it doesn't spring back to zero throttle when I release it, I need to muscle it back to zero (and even then it didn't seem to reduce throttle). Any chance the cable itself is dicked up? Can I just somehow unhook the throttle cable and clean it well? quote:So the airleak is more "why you have throttle problems" and no so much "why it runs slow, and then cuts out"? You should clean the tank. You should clean the carb. Always. You never know how the PO treated their gas, and it's better safe than sorry in that regard. If the motor runs at all, the plug is ok.
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Nov 24, 2008 01:23
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Nerobro posted:You'll save yourself a LOT of frustration, if you just get over it, and actually disassemble and clean the carb. 95% of "it runs, just not well" is because someone just can't get it through their head that you need to TAKE APART AND CLEAN the carb. 15 minutes now, saves you hours of work later, and potentially saves you from putting a hole in your piston. I know this. I didn't feel like disassembling the whole moped to get to the carb as it was my first time dinking around with this frame, and I didn't want to take more apart than I could put back together myself (I had enough of a time trying to manhandle the frame back so I could put the main frame bolts back on). 2) I'm in Blacksburg, working in a parking lot laying on a layer of snow/ice, not a whole lot of fun being out there for an extended period of time. 3)I'll be giving these peds the once over for x-mas break, when I have more than "my little totebag of tools and a parking lot" when I'm home from school. I just happened to have some carb cleaner laying around and felt like dinking around with it when I was out learning my way around the body (which turned out to end up requiring a bit of maneuvering to get to the goody bits, just like my PA50). I'll wait for a serious carb cleaning when I have access to an air pump and easily get the gunk out. I'm not relying on the Kinetic, so having it work sporadically for another two weeks isn't a big deal. Bean_ fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Nov 24, 2008 |
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Nov 24, 2008 01:57
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Right, I've heard about theat technique to get the ash out. Is that just so the burned carbon can expediently get away from the cylinder without backblast? I just wasn't immediately aware that the condition of the exhaust has such a huge effect on the speed. The exhaust has a HUGE impact on the engine -- 2 strokes need the proper backpressure to function normally. Don't ride with a clogged exhaust and definitely don't ride with no exhaust or a straight pipe like a lot of morons seem to do because it "sounds awesome bro". If you get an engine kit, a new pipe is a must have item if you want to make use of the extra power you just bought. GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Nov 24, 2008 |
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Nov 24, 2008 02:58
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I put new bars on my moped today. I used bicycle mountian bike bars. They're roughly 6" to wide, I'll be fixing that tonight. I also got a new petcock on it. THe thing runs beautifully now. Beore the pecock was choking off the bike, and extended full throttle runs would cause it to misfire a bit. ;-) Now I"m not going lean. Next up? I'm getting a new carb and intake. Ther'es no restrictor in my exahsut, other than the outlet pipe itself. Treats has a intake, carb, jets, and cable kit available. $95 seems fair for that. I'm still hunting down a reasonably priced 70cc kit.
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Dec 1, 2008 00:14
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Nerobro posted:Treats has a intake, carb, jets, and cable kit available. $95 seems fair for that. I'm still hunting down a reasonably priced 70cc kit.
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Dec 2, 2008 04:31
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OK, I'll ask it. What the gently caress is a kit and how do I throw it?
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Dec 2, 2008 04:36
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"Throw a kit on it" All you need to know.
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Dec 2, 2008 04:46
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Spiffness posted:"Throw a kit on it" Ohhhhh, I get it all now.
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Dec 2, 2008 04:58
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Well, on that note, I just found someone one MA that has a stock variator (which I'll modify for higher rpm operation) and 70cc kit for $70 each. And $6 for a 19mm intake. I will be getting the carb kit, and new cable kit from treats.
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Dec 2, 2008 05:08
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TheFonz posted:OK, I'll ask it. It was awesome that we got a title change, but for max clarity shouldn't the word "Moped" appear somewhere in the title? Maybe "Moped Megathread" or whatever? Oh, and there's a $400 top-tank Batavus listed on Milwaukee CL in the Scooter thread. This is why we need a clearer title, to keep 'ped business away from the sissy floorboard-having mod-squad. UPDATE: de-rusted my gas tank, (somewhat) de-carboned my exhaust by putting it on a charcoal firepit in my driveway. After classes end next week I'll clean out the carb, replace the throttle wire (to prevent another bout of Runaway Moped Death), and see where I stand. There may well be some airleak issues, in which case I get to do a bunch of non-fun gasket-checking poo poo.
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Dec 2, 2008 06:24
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TapTheForwardAssist don't you have some kind of bike, and live in some city named Austin? Goon rides?
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Dec 2, 2008 22:37
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LOLLERZ posted:TapTheForwardAssist don't you have some kind of bike, and live in some city named Austin? Goon rides? Yes, I have a Honda Nighthawk 250cc, but I've only been riding a few weeks, and my top speed ever was like 40mph, so I doubt I'm up to group rides. I also have a Honda PA50 moped, but it's disassembled while I clean out the guts, and it's also the 20mph version, so not the best for group rides either. I'll be probably moving to DC in April or so, and probably from there to Afghanistan, but when I get back to the US in late 2009 I'll probably buy a nice bike and get more serious about riding motos and/or 'peds.
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Dec 3, 2008 02:06
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Has anyone noticed that almost every 50cc bike has the same stroke? 39mm to be specific.. Everything from a Puegeot 103 and Yamaha Zuma to a Derbi GPR50 and the aprilia rs50. Why don't we see Aprilia cylinders grafted onto puches.... *does some research* okey, well that explains that. Puches and Tomos bikes use around a 43mm stroke. I guess that means Peugeot owners have the real potential hot ticket. Now I need to find out what it will take to graft the cylinder from a derbi onto a pug.
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Dec 4, 2008 16:24
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Well I think the Zuma, RS50, and GRP50 all use, or at least have in their lifespan, the same engine.
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Dec 5, 2008 00:47
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Nerobro posted:Has anyone noticed that almost every 50cc bike has the same stroke? 39mm to be specific.. Everything from a Puegeot 103 and Yamaha Zuma to a Derbi GPR50 and the aprilia rs50. Why aren't you custom making a housing and crank to turn it into a V-twin moped? Think of all the kit you could throw on that...
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Dec 5, 2008 11:07
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Okey, I know it's a joke...... but... That's a project that's magnitudes more difficult. Sharing crankcase volume between two separate cylinders doesn't work as well. While reed valves can work miracles, they do not affect things beyond them. What it amounts to, is if you have a v twin 2 stroke with out separate crankcase partitions is you have a leaky pair of piston port engines. The interactions get extremely complex, and ugly. People have done twin and triple cylinder mopeds before. To gene splice between a RS50 and a Peugeot 103 I should at most need to fill, and re-drill the cylinder mounting studs, and make a spacer to ensure proper cylinder height. That sort of work is entirely sane to do in the garage. I've got a metal cutting bandsaw, a dremmel, and a drill press, and I know how to do accurate layout and use a tap. making a crankcase... Well that would require either buying some very large expensive blocks of aluminum, and getting them milled. or casting and then getting them mills. Again.. ti's a 2 stroke, it's not like it's terribly complex, but that's WAY beyond the scope of what i'm trying to do.
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Dec 5, 2008 15:20
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I would worry that the cylinder sleeve might have a different thickness going from one brand to another, which would make fitting the head annoying, but I guess you could always grind that down. And it's not like you couldn't just choose to use a head from a more compatible engine, either. What would be the benefit of using a different top-end on such an engine anyhow? Higher compression? Use of more available exhausts on the newer/more common head?
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Dec 5, 2008 16:39
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FluffGrenade posted:What would be the benefit of using a different top-end on such an engine anyhow? Higher compression? Use of more available exhausts on the newer/more common head? Cylinders from aprilia, derbi, even polini, have serious engineering behind them. They have a racing pedigree. They aren't likely to develop hot spots and seize. The stock, and most aftermarket cylinders still have old port designs. (that is single or twin transfer ports, and an unbridged exhaust port) The RS50 and Derbi are both running multi port setups, with boost ports, multiple transfer ports, and a definite eye towards making the cylinders reliable. (they also have narrow ports, which gives the piston rings an easy life) I'd be using both the head, and cylinder, as the head seals the cylinder. The single most important thing to water cool in a motor is the cylinder head. If they were available, "just" a water cooled head would give you most of the cooling benefits. And would let you use more reasonable fuel mixtures without burning things up.
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Dec 5, 2008 17:37
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| # ? May 3, 2024 21:36 |
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That makes sense. I wasn't even thinking in terms of watercooling; whenever I think of 50cc 2-stroke, I just sort of assume it's aircooled. This could be a really interesting project.
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Dec 5, 2008 19:00
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