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i posted these in the scooter thread, i guess this is my little horde of bikes that i have now. my 103 sp:  puch magnum:  maxi n:  barn fresh:  once i got her running:  all put away for winter, you can see my puch newport in this image:  I'll try and answer any questions people have from pricing and all that to MopedArmy group rides. Just thought I'd get some pictures in this thread.
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Dec 6, 2008 06:52
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Is this at all a decent deal? I should probably focus more on fixing my Hobbit, but this goes twice as fast.quote:1995 Tomos Targa lx for sale. 49cc. Very nice bike, runs great, about 100 mpg and it tops out at about 40+ mph. Oil injected. This bike has been customized so you won't see another one quite like it. I put straight bars on it, mag wheels, a Biturbo performance pipe and a few other small modifications. I am asking 1300 
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Dec 9, 2008 08:12
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Them niggaz Bloody Spokes is mad weak
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Dec 9, 2008 09:49
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$1300 will buy you a nice UJM. Something that will get you 50mpg, and 120mph. :-) $1300 is near new, or greater than new price. I wouldn't touch it until the price is down around $800. And that's if I inspected the bike and found everything to be better than factory and prefect by my standards.
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Dec 9, 2008 10:06
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Is this at all a decent deal? I should probably focus more on fixing my Hobbit, but this goes twice as fast. Is this a fakepost? This has to be a fakepost. Does qualify for craigslist gold though.
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Dec 9, 2008 10:08
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Is this at all a decent deal? I should probably focus more on fixing my Hobbit, but this goes twice as fast. http://www.tomosscooter.com/TomosMopeds.html $50 more than new. You can get a biturbo for $150, sprocket for like $20 bucks, etc etc. For that age, I would pass, no questions asked. Bean_ fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Dec 9, 2008 |
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Dec 9, 2008 16:39
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Bean_ posted:http://www.tomosscooter.com/TomosMopeds.html yea, dont do it. That being said if you're willing to drop that type of cash, buy a cheap bike, puch, or whatever and put the rest of the cash in kitting/tuning. you could make a mean ped with 1200.
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Dec 10, 2008 00:31
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Unreal Fantasy posted:yea, dont do it. That being said if you're willing to drop that type of cash, buy a cheap bike, puch, or whatever and put the rest of the cash in kitting/tuning. you could make a mean ped with 1200. Yeah, I was just curious whether either the basic bike was pricier than the average Tomos, whether all the upgrades were amazing, or if he were simply asking way too much. I have $450 into my Honda PA50, and I believe there are 70cc kits, upgraded exhausts, etc. that can't be more than a few hundred total to upgrade. Now that the semester is ending, I need to get back to working on my 'ped. I bought carb cleaner, and I have safety goggle and my air compressor, so should be able to hose out all the carbon. My throttle won't roll off properly, so I'll probably replace that to be safe. Do I have to buy a specific Hobbit throttle cable/housing, or do I just go to some store and say "gimme 4 feet of throttle cable and five of housing"? Once I get the carb off I'll know better whether it's the little spring-loaded level on the carb that doesn't want to close when I roll-off, or whether it's the cable itself sticking. Regardless, cable is old and casing looks close to falling apart. Already cleaned gas tank and exhaust, so just need to clean carb, fix throttle, and then see if there's some kind of air-leak issue which is killing the engine at random intervals. Got some 2-stroke oil for it too, dirty little creature that it is.
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Dec 10, 2008 05:12
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I got my 70cc kit today. Pictures will folllow tomorrow. With frightening detail. :-)
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Dec 10, 2008 05:38
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:My throttle won't roll off properly, so I'll probably replace that to be safe. Do I have to buy a specific Hobbit throttle cable/housing, or do I just go to some store and say "gimme 4 feet of throttle cable and five of housing"? Once I get the carb off I'll know better whether it's the little spring-loaded level on the carb that doesn't want to close when I roll-off, or whether it's the cable itself sticking. Regardless, cable is old and casing looks close to falling apart. any throttle cable should work, just make sure the nub at the bottom will work with your carburetor.
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Dec 10, 2008 06:56
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Unreal Fantasy posted:any throttle cable should work, just make sure the nub at the bottom will work with your carburetor. As I recall, there is no "nub" on my throttle cable, there's an eyelet with a screw you tighten down to clamp the cable. That's the other problem: the Phillips head of the eyelet screw is stripped, and I can't just smack a deeper slot with a screwdriver and hammer because the screw is on a small delicate piece. I might just clip the throttle cord off first, just so I can disassemble the thing, and then do some remedial "stripped screw removal" steps to get the screw out. It's just that I can't really get the engine apart until I remove the throttle cable, and I can't remove the throttle cable's stripped screw without taking out the engine. Since the cable is apparently jacked, I might as well chop it. It was rather amusing though, having a stuck throttle. Thankfully mine's a 20mph version, otherwise it would've been less amusing.
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Dec 10, 2008 07:26
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Well look what I got in the mail last night. And the contents of said package. A 70cc Airsal kit for a Peugeot 103.  Just for good measure, here's the port map.  Has anyone else done one? Would you like to see how? On another note, I went for a bit of a ride last night. In 3" of snow. Snow really slows the peugeot down. I'm still amazed at the amount of traction available, and how far you can slide the front tire and still recover.
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Dec 10, 2008 16:30
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Nerobro posted:Has anyone else done one? Would you like to see how? I would love to see what you're doing. Pictures never hurt.
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Dec 10, 2008 16:52
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Where did you order said kit which is to be thrown?
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Dec 10, 2008 16:53
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Nerobro posted:Well look what I got in the mail last night. I have 2 kits, 70cc malossi on my 103sp and a 70cc on my rigid. However seeing pictures of people installing kits is always fun, so do take some pictures maybe a video of you case matching or something if you have to do that. I have some questions, do you Chamfer your ports when you install a kit or polish the exhaust port? Unreal Fantasy fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Dec 10, 2008 |
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Dec 10, 2008 17:36
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The kit came from a guy on mopedarmy. I was asking about finding another Peugeot 103 top end and he counter offered with a complete 70cc kit. He sells a few parts. I paid $86 for this kit and a 19mm intake. I will be cleaning up the ports a little. I don't want to be catching rings in there. Though it is cast iron, if things get truly screwed up, I can afford to have it bored out almost a full millimeter. I also need to purchase/make a gasket or two. And I was told I should replace the small end bearing while I'm at it. So I will. Lets do a port map! To do a port map, you need a cylinder. It needs to be very clean, and dry. Oil will make the paper unpleasant to work with, and will make tape not stick. You also need a pencil, a pen, some calipers, and tape. I used clear packing tape. I took my sheet of graph paper, folded it in half, and tore it down the middle.  You need to roll it up, and stuff it in the cylinder. This time is for a fitting. You can't get a good port map with multiple layers of paper. As you can see here, there's almost two complete turns of paper in there.  I put tape over the top of the cylinder, to make sure the paper wouldn't move. The top edge of the paper, stuck to the tape quite nicely. I didn't need to use any other sticky stuff.  I didn't get any pictures of me scribbling with a colored pencil. I went with the colored pencil because it was softer and i was less likely to punch through the paper. Here's the result.  And you've already seen the final image, after I'd measured all the important distances. Just so you know what I went for.. The important distances are from the top of the cyliner to the top of each port. That defines the port timing, port timing gives you a good idea of what rpm the motor will want to run at. The width and height numbers of each port helps with that calculation, but is much less critical. Here's the $6 intake. It's very much a $6 18.5mm intake. I will need to do a lot of cleanup work on it.  There's a lot more pictures, feel free to browse. I took lots of measurements. http://www.practicalalchemy.org/~nerobro/public/Pictures/Motorcycles/ThrowAKit/Small Unreal Fantasy, do you have calipers? Would you be willing to take some measurements for me? Edit: fixed the link. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Dec 10, 2008 |
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Dec 10, 2008 18:02
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Nerobro posted:There's a lot more pictures, feel free to browse. I took lots of measurements.  Never mind, got the directory from the other pictures.  http://www.practicalalchemy.org/~nerobro/public/Pictures/Motorcycles/ThrowAKit/Small/
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Dec 10, 2008 19:08
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What do you guys do to deal with rust in tanks?
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Dec 20, 2008 15:11
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I recommend the electrolytic route. Followed by rocks, nuts, and bolts. Then leaving the tank bare, and never, ever, letting the tank get completely empty.
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Dec 20, 2008 22:13
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I went and picked up some Evapo-Rust (recommended via MopedArmy) and splashed it in the tank of my purple Kinetic TFR. Its supposed to sit there for a couple of days. We'll see how it works out. While this is eating away at the rust (hopefully), I'm trying to figure out the wiring on my PA50. It runs, but none of the lights/horn work. After testing today with a multimeter, we found out that the ac generator is working, but somewhere in the line the circuit is broken. I'm not sure what tomorrow will bring, but I maybe replacing all the wiring. On another note: Cleaned the carb of my black TFR and it runs like a dream.  Now I know what "they" mean when "they" say it was built by midget fingers.Bean_ fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Dec 20, 2008 |
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Dec 20, 2008 23:05
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So has anyone actually ridden a MadAss? I MAY be able to get a 125 for cheap depending on whether a friend of mine can sweet talk this dealer in Milwaukee. I love the look of it and the Ruckus but I've always been concerned about the Ruckus' lack of power. I'd just like to get some impressions of it before making a drive to Milwaukee to do a test ride.
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Dec 21, 2008 01:40
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Kwagga posted:So has anyone actually ridden a MadAss? I MAY be able to get a 125 for cheap depending on whether a friend of mine can sweet talk this dealer in Milwaukee. I love the look of it and the Ruckus but I've always been concerned about the Ruckus' lack of power. The guy living under me in my apartment complex has one, and loves it. He paid $500 after some teen thieves hosed it up while having some fun, and I haven't heard one complaint, but only about how much he loves having it. His is only a 50cc, though.
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Dec 22, 2008 03:35
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THEY'RE ALIVE! Got my two POS Kinetic TFRs (1999 and 1997) running over this past week. Black one (1999) needed a carb cleaning to run (reliably) and some electrical tape around the headlight (screw casing broke, taped to secure headlight and keep it from rattling around). Purple TFR needed: carb cleaning, new fuel line, fuel filter, and exhaust. The previous owner cut the baffle off the pipe, so I took the straight pipe that was left on (and loud as all gently caress) and welded a $4 Ace Hardware lawnmower baffle on it. Seems to work pretty well, so far at least. The red moped is a 1982 Honda PA50II (camino/hobbit). While trying to get the lights to work, we shorted something out and now it won't run. Hooray! I've had it for about 4 months and I've put over 600+ miles on it commuting from school to my apartment. I hope I can get it running again. Video of me goofing off on the Purple TFR is at the end of the post.  Click here for the full 500x756 image.  Click here for the full 600x450 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image. VIDEO of me being totally sweet riding around with NO HANDS! Bean_ fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Dec 24, 2008 |
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Dec 24, 2008 22:57
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Bean_ posted:THEY'RE ALIVE! That thing sounds like a scale replica of a WWII fighter plane or something. That's equal parts awesome and hilarious.
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Dec 25, 2008 03:54
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I work as a service writer/apprentice mechanic at a motorcycle/scooter shop in SF and have saved up some money to get my first bike. Guys at the shop want me to get a lil Ninja or CB500 or something. I on the other hand am pretty seriously considering getting a mo-ped because I'm a idiot baby. I can't ask any of them about because they already have more than enough reasons to call me gay. I don't know anything about mo-peds and am too much of a little weiner to ask David our resident mo-ped dork anything so I'm asking internet. What make/model are common and cheap and easy to get parts for that I should be looking at for baby's first motor-bike?
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Jan 2, 2009 23:50
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Crumbskull posted:I don't know anything about mo-peds and am too much of a little weiner to ask David our resident mo-ped dork anything so I'm asking internet. What make/model are common and cheap and easy to get parts for that I should be looking at for baby's first motor-bike? New or old? Old: Puch is the most reliably easy to find parts for. After Puch, there's a bunch of mopeds that are less easy to find parts for: (old) Tomos, Batavus, Motobecane, Peugot, Foxi, Sachs, Jawa, Honda, Kinetic/Vespa and some others I'm sure I missed. New: Tomos. This is all you need to know. They have a great repuation, and have OEM parts galore, as well as performance parts out of the wazoo. Old prices vary, new Tomos go about 1200-2300 from base to the most costly model, depending on where you live (which I'm sure living in Cali doesn't help deflate the prices). With you living in SF, I'd get something with more power, or seriously consider upgrading some parts on the moped, as a stock 50cc moped or scooter will have trouble with the hills in your area. 1977Mopeds [ur]http://www.1977mopeds.com[/url], a great resource for the community, has a store located in SF. You might want to run by and talk to them in person if you don't find the help you want here.
Bean_ fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jan 3, 2009 |
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Jan 3, 2009 00:25
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I pretty much assumed I'd be "throwing" a "kit" on "it" within minutes of buying one, yeah. A big part of my impulse to get a moped is being able to gently caress around with an extremely simple machine in my spare time and make myself feel better about the fact that over-hauling a carb on an SV650 still can take me like six hours at the shop :3
Crumbskull fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jan 3, 2009 |
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Jan 3, 2009 00:50
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I take some offense to the "throw a kit" thing. At least in my endevors i'm going to try to do more than just throw random parts at my bike and pray it gets quick/fast. I went with the 70cc kit because I have no displacement limit, and there's no better way to make power, than to increase displacement. Though now I'm trying to push 70cc's worth of wildly ported cylinder through the exhaust meant for a 50cc 2hp bike. Time for a new carb and exhaust. What I've learned.... Puches: are stupidly common. and have a huge following. That makes pipes and cylinders, cheap, but all other parts are expensive. Their design BLOWS. Intakes with a sharp 90 degree bend.. ew... Also, they're piston port, also ew. This makes them more peaky. The dutch love these bikes, and actully have done research and development. They regularly produce 20hp bikes. (not to say that anyone on MA has done this... But i'm saying it can be done with time, good parts choice, and a dyno) Tomos: about the same as puch. On most levels. Also a long stroke bike. Both tomos and puch have a stroke similar to bikes like the KX85 and RM85. I"ll let you extrapolate what I've been pondering in that regard... Batavus M48: are run of the mill, easy to deal with. Hard to find parts for. Simple. They're reed valve, so make good power everywhere. No aftermarket cylinders. Short stroke, this leads to good piston ring life. And potential for very high rpms without a loss in reliability. Batavus M56: nobody wants to touch. Trac cloned the motor. They have a torque converter. Also reed valve as the M48. Potentially they could be very fast... If my coworker doesn't sell his after we get it running, I think his may be the fastest batavus yet. If we can find a decent cylinder to graft onto it. Also the carb is a single purpose design, made just for the M56. It's poo poo. To put another carb requires almost a puch like backward rear end solution. The carb is blocked by the main drive belt... it's stupid. Peugeot 103/motobecame: Both bikes are mostly step throughs. MOst are variated. This means they have a CVT, and in the case of both brands, the motor pivots to take up belt slack. Both bikes have a large aftermarket of pipes, cylinders, variators, pulleys, whatever.. As they were raced on a large scale in france. Peugeots are all Reed valve. Motobecames can be either, but being variated, it doesn't matter, as the variator keeps the bike in the proper operating rpm. I'm biased. If I had to sell my current 'ped and buy another, it would defintiely be a motobecame or a peugeot. The CVT is the deal sealer for me. Peugeots and batavuses have a stroke that's very similar to the aprilia RS50, and derbi GPR50. I think motobecames may be as well. *grins* Since your in san francisco, I'd push you towards something with a variator. Either a Peugeot or Motobecame. Otherwise you'll want something 2 speed. Either a ZA50 based puch (which basically means magnum II) or tomos. At least that's how I see it. :-) Before you start modifying, make sure the bike is 100% tip top stock shape. And.. talk to us first. You're going to want to tune for mid range and acceleration. Mopedarmy hurts my head, and often has misleading advice.
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Jan 3, 2009 09:15
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@Nerobro: that's a really awesome breakdown of the tech side. Might I ask your opinion of the Honda PA50 Hobbit?
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Jan 4, 2009 10:30
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I've got a chance to bid on a (what he claims) is a 99 Tomos LX about 30 minutes from my apartment at school. I YEARN for the LX, and the bid is 172.00 on ebay right now. Ends tomorrow, and I think I might try to bid it for about 200.00. What do you guys think?  Looks like he's transposed a streetmate headlight on it, which I think looks pretty good. Bean_ fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 16:11
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Winning bid was $210.73. I'll be picking it up on Monday (hopefully), and listing one of my Kinetics tomorrow. Anyone want a Kinetic TFR around Blacksburg, VA?  Edit: Picked it up. Runs, but is in need of carb cleaning. This thing is sweet. The build is unlike the other mopeds I've riden, as it feels a whole lot more polished. I'll post pictures later. (and a video if I get it running at a decent time tomorrow) Bean_ fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 10, 2009 07:17
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Someone respond so I'm not here talking to myself in the moped thread.  I got the carb apart today (holy poo poo it was easy to get to! Thanks Tomos engineers), and I am amazed the thing was even idling with the choke. There was grey and brown poo poo caked EVERYWHERE in the carb. Absolutely disgusting. I cleaned the carb pretty well, put it back together. It would start (with choke on) run a little (with choke on), and run for a second (with choke off) before choking out an dying. I figured I didn't clean it well enough, and that something is causing it to run out of gas (which as it would die after 3 seconds or so of full throttle, indicates to me that the bowl had been completely bonked dry). So I cleaned the carb again. Jet had clogged up pretty badly, so I cleaned that again, as well as sprayed the gently caress out of the carb. Same issues once everything was put back together. I rode one of my Kinetic TFR over to Advanced Auto and picked up two new cans of Carb Cleaner, as well as some little picks (I can't remember what they were called, but they looked like dentistry tools). Rode back, took the carb off. I took the picks and scraped all the gunk out of the carb, then sprayed it down like riding mopeds was going out of style ( ) and put it back together. Same issue :fist:.Anyone (Nerobro, I'm looking at you) have any ideas on what could be going on? Thanks
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Jan 13, 2009 23:14
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You aren't talking to yourself. I'm lurking. I used to have a Tomos Targa LX back in 95. It was the SHEIT.
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Jan 14, 2009 01:00
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And I replied in the other thread ;-)
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Jan 14, 2009 07:28
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http://www.vimeo.com/1924417 Best weekend of my loving life. Also  My beloved benelli g2 :3 SPAGHETTI PEDS FOREVA Piggypoop fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 08:35
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Haha, I'm such a stupid prick. Went out there today, and it had gummed up pretty substantially (enough to make it look as though I hadn't touched the carb). How...I don't know. Anyways, I cleaned the hell out of it, and there must have been some built up gunk that was I wasn't getting well enough earlier in the Needle housing tube (whatever that's called). I used the brass wire recommendation from Nerobro in the CV thread to get it out, and although there wasn't much in there, that was the solution. I cleaned the jet and scrapped some more caked film off, put it back together, and it runs great. Awesome. (Also-Nerobro, I took some pictures of the Dellorto Carb if you want me to throw those in the CV Carb thread...I'm not sure if that Free-For-All carb stuff, or what) (My Hosting A LOT OF PICTURES!)                 Bean_ fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 23:10
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Bean_ posted:Haha, I'm such a stupid prick. Also porting is magic. Tuned pipe etc. Technoboss is a good start. I think they make those for the tomos.
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Jan 14, 2009 23:30
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Piggypoop posted:Put a sha 15.15 on that bitch and downjet a little. I was thinking of just throwing a bolt on biturbo with a new jet on there for the time being. I think I might upgrade to a 70cc kit and more later. I was able to get the thing to 30 around town (Blacksburg VA, hilly/mountainous), and just getting the 6-8 top end MPH would really give me all the power I need, if not more.
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Jan 14, 2009 23:32
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I don't like the biturbo exhausts. Your money is better spent on a better pipe. Each sharp transition on the exhaust causes another set of shockwaves down the pipe. Smooth transitions are important. Also the way the biturbo goes togother hurts the returning wave. You can find better, for similar prices. Displacement is the most important thing you can do for the bike. 70cc kit first.
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Jan 15, 2009 03:31
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| # ? May 4, 2024 02:08 |
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Okay, so is there anything you could recommend? How do you feel about the Techno Bullet? The reason I ask is because if I don't go with the biturbo, and go with a 70cc kit, I'd be getting my kit from Treats, and he's got a TechnoBullet for the A35 for sale that I'd like to package together for cheaper shipping. I haven't heard anything bad about the bullet, but that's not saying much as I had only heard good things about the biturbo up until now.
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Jan 15, 2009 03:57
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