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Just throwing in two recommendations. I have a Pro-Ject RPM-1 with and Ortofon 2M Red cartridge, and it's great. The 2M is a huge step above the OM-5 and 10 that are supplied as oem cartdriges with the Pro-Jects.
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Dec 24, 2008 03:02
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Pibborando San posted:Yay, Christmas! Good to see the Discwasher D4+ hidden away there on the right 
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Dec 26, 2008 01:39
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Pibborando San posted:The cart that came attached is an Audio-Technica 8008, which I couldn't find much info on, except that it's supposed to be the same as the AT331LP which requires 1.0g - 1.6g of TF, so I set the counterweight to 1.5g. Since I have NO frame of reference, I can't tell how good this cart is, but I have no complaints so far. EXCEPT, it seems to be riding really low on the LP surface, and the very bottom of the plastic housing sometimes scrapes against the record which makes an annoying dull "khkkhggkhh" sound. Could it be the cantilever is giving more than it should? I wish I had another cart to test, but I'm pretty much broke. Sometime soon I should be able to get the DL110 to replace this AT. Yeah, you need to set the zero balance on the arm before the indication on the counterweight has any semblance of accuracy. 1) Lift the arm off the rest, and let it sit between the rest and start of the record. 2) Wind the counterweight out until the arm "floats" straight and level, neither rising nor falling when you let go. 3) Turn the ring with the numbers on it (not the whole counterweight, just the black part at the front) so that "0" lines up with the marking on the counterweight shaft. 4) Rotate the counterweight inwards till the marking is halfway between 1 and 2. 5) Adjust the anti-skate to the same setting as the counterweight, in this case 1.5. This should give you a somewhat accurate measure of tracking force, but no turntable's reading is going to be as accurate as a basic dedicated scale, like this one:  Or for something really accurate (and more expensive) there is always this. Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Dec 26, 2008 |
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Dec 26, 2008 06:19
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cormac posted:I just bought a bush Mtt2 turntable off Ebay. It works fine but the counterweight was unattached so I need to set the thing up properly. Unfortunately it didn't come with a user manual, and I've no idea what the tracking force and anti skate should be set to. It's got the original cheapo cartridge that came with it new, but it soesn't seem to have a brand name anywhere on it. Any one able to help me out? Read this.
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Feb 9, 2009 15:34
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muckswirler posted:I got their info packet thing and read a bunch about it. I think the general consensus is that it sucks. The general consensus is it sucks because a laser beam is incapable of pushing dust and other record detritus out of the way as it reads the groove - Which a boring old diamond stylus does quite well. This means that the sound from them need to be extensively filtered to get the pops and crackles out, and this goes against the purist ethos, and means they sound pretty average. I'm sure they could come up with something like a stylus to clean the groove prior to the beam reading it, but that would eliminate one of the biggest advantages of the ELP, the non-contact and therefore no wear playback.
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Jun 4, 2009 05:08
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Peacebone posted:I won a Pioneer SX-770 blackface for really cheap on Ebay but am wondering on how to plug in the speakers since it has these strange speaker plug thing. Have a look at the very site you got the image of the amp from.  Click here for the full 648x429 image. Scroll down to just past the bit about audio equalizers... The price includes shipping.
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Jun 11, 2009 09:25
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Is modding it out of the question? I have a 31 year old Sony amp that powers the speakers on my desk... It had tiny little screw terminals that were an absolute pain to use, so I replaced them with banana sockets.  By the looks of the back panel, the speaker terminal plates are held in with screws, so it doesn't look like a huge task to change them.
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Jun 13, 2009 02:01
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Phillyt posted:Ah ok. I will try that. Thanks. Is there any way a record player itself could be damaging a record? I'm always paranoid about this but I highly doubt that is happening. Other than cleaning, make sure the stylus tracking weight is set correctly. Too heavy, and records will wear quicker, too light, and they'll skip easily. The "normal" tracking weight is about 1.5 to 1.8g, but your cartridge manufacturer should tell you exactly what yours should be set to. Don't forget the anti-skate either, if your turntable has it... It's normally set to read the same as the tracking weight.
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Jun 17, 2009 06:59
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Any other Pro-ject owners in here? Custom modified RPM 1 with an Ortofon 2M Red. Sitting behind it is a Speedbox II and a Phonobox II, both in black. Bonus points if you can guess the artist I'm listening to (Sire Records should be a dead giveaway).
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Sep 29, 2009 09:24
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Turnip Head posted:Very cool. I've got an RM5 SE and love it. It's Madonna. I'm sad. And yeah, the RPM 5 is a nice mid-range table... It gets most of the engineering and design benefit of the higher end RPM models without the really bad price tag. What cartridge are you using?
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Sep 30, 2009 14:53
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Currently listening to Livingston Taylor on the system in my study: 1978 Sony TA-212 Amplifier (40w per channel) 1983 Philips CD202 CD Player (Top loading, CDM-0 mech) Both are older than me, the Philips by only 3 months though More info on the restoration of the Philips in my flickr set. For those of you that don't know, I collect and restore first gen CD players as a hobby. I have 15, all but 2 in working order and my girlfriend thinks I'm completely insane.
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Jan 20, 2010 12:38
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ShaneB posted:Aren't early CD players known to mostly have terrifically terrible DACs? Some of the early players have 14 bit DACs, but from mid 1983 onwards, they were pretty much all 16 bit. I stumbled across this site yesterday: http://wegavision.pytalhost.com/ Lots and lots of vintage brochures of A/V gear through the 50's to the 90's. All in German, but if you can't read auf deutsch, there are still a lot of nice pictures to look at. 
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Feb 6, 2010 02:15
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I have some new toys. Firstly, a Technics SL-10 linear tracking deck. Bought on eBay for AUD$235 shipped (in non-working order, I might add). I stripped down the upper half and mechanically serviced the tonearm mech (and fitted a new Ortofon OMP-10 cartridge) the day it arrived, so it plays perfectly now, but it's in dire need of a cosmetic overhaul though - The paint is bubbling around the control buttons, and it's covered in marks and scratches. I'm going to take the two chassis halves to be media blasted and then repaint them... Just need to take it to a paint shop and have them measure it then mix me up an aerosol of the original color. Fortunately, the acrylic window on top doesn't have any deep scratches, so some elbow grease and polish should clean it up. Secondly, I built my own vacuum record cleaning machine. Based on the VPI style design (wide vacuum wand with a slit in it) and an old turntable of mine, It's been assembled entirely out of parts from the hardware store at a total cost of about AUD$80. I'm gonna take some pics of it shortly to inspire you all, but my records have never sounded this good... Cleaning with a carbon brush and a spray & wipe over will only do so much. Wet wash and vacuum *really* gets the grooves clean. Every record I've cleaned so far has come out sounding fantastic, and with a rainbow sheen to the grooves, like new.
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Mar 25, 2010 12:02
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Here's a video of the Technics SL-10: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWceNAFvL9Y I'll get some pics of the record cleaner next time I do a batch.
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Apr 2, 2010 16:28
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I just posted a few old pics on Audiokarma of some of my CD players... Figure they may as well get posted here for your amusement!   Top to bottom: Dual CD-120 Luxman D-404 Yamaha CD-1050 Akai CD-D1 Technics SL-PJ1 That's 5 out of 14. Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Apr 28, 2010 |
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Apr 28, 2010 11:37
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Bill O'Riley is GENIUS posted:This is the kind of post I wasn't looking for. If you have something helpful and/or informative rather than disparaging and/or elitist I would like to hear it. I hate to sound like a broken record, but your record player is a giant piece of poo poo, and unlike the others, I'm going to tell you why: 1. The centre pin and platter on that turntable do not have a real bearing - There is just a circlip that holds the rotating platter part to the fixed centre pin. This means the inner part of your record's centre hole is rotating around and slowly wearing away. This also creates noise that is picked up by the stylus, and is probably responsible for the squeak you're hearing on the really tight one. Strike one. 2. The platter is made from injection molded plastic, isn't even a full 12" in size, and driven by a poor quality DC motor that probably has it's own internal speed regulator. - This is bad because that light platter carries almost inertia, so any speed variations from the lovely motor are immediately obvious. Strike two. 3. The tonearm on that turntable doesn't have any real bearings in it either - They're basically just plastic points in plastic cups with a bit of grease smeared in for good measure. It also has a cheap, low compliance (this means that the stylus and cantilever is hard to move in relation to the cartridge) ceramic cartridge with a poorly cut stylus that not only sounds like absolute poo poo, it tracks at a fixed weight of about 4 grams. The ideal tracking weight for most turntables is between 1.25 and 1.8 grams. You say that records sound better than CDs on any setup - I'm surprised you can tell on that horrible thing. Strike three. Combine all of these things together and you're subjecting your (most likely) valuable records to ABSOLUTE loving TORTURE every time you play them. The speed is unstable because the record is binding on the fixed centre pin causing the lovely motor to work harder to spin that light platter and drag that heavy arm with that awful cartridge through your delicate grooves.  I hope that was clear enough, you seemed to miss it the first time that it was pointed out to you. The thing is, you don't even have to spend much money to get better quality that will better that piece of poo poo you have now, and not only will it sound better, your records will last longer too! Use eBay (the place I've gotten quite a lot of equipment from in the past) and combine something like this with one of these and a couple of these. A system like that, even with shipping should set you back no more than about $150, and you could probably get away even cheaper if you checked out the thrift stores in your area - If it's old looking, made out of something that isn't plastic or wood, and heavy, then it's worth buying. You can very easily connect your PC, iPod, or a CD Player to that amp as well. And like I said earlier, it won't destroy your records, and it will sound BETTER! If you do happen across an older turntable that works mechanically but needs a new stylus, replace the whole cartridge with one of the entry level carts made by Ortofon, Audio Technica, or Shure - A complete new cartridge with stylus won't run you more than about $20 or $30, and the basic models from those manufacturers have been in production long enough that getting a replacement stylus won't be an issue in the future. The other thing to get the most out of your records quality wise, is to keep them CLEAN. Don't handle them by any area other than the label or the edge, get a carbon fiber brush (less than $10) for now to get the dust off, and maybe later look at investing in something like a Spin Clean or a Knosti (google it) - The cleaner your records are, the better they'll sound and the longer they'll last. Also, if you're buying new records, try not to let them get dirty in the first place... It's easier to keep a good record clean in the first place than it is to spend time deep cleaning a dirty one. Anyway, I think that's enough for now... I've been collecting vinyl since I was 5, and have learned a lot over the years that I'm happy to share. If you need help or advice, PM me or post in the thread and I'll gladly help (as I'm sure most others will too). And if you really want to see and hear what a decent quality older turntable looks and sounds like, here is a video of one of mine. Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Nov 3, 2010 |
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Nov 3, 2010 04:07
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Bill O'Riley is GENIUS posted:Thanks, this is a good post, but how did you accumulate such an encyclopedic knowledge of lovely record players that you don't use? 6 years as a bench technician repairing A/V equipment, and an interest in audio that started when I was about 10 years old. And I read a lot.
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Nov 3, 2010 20:23
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Not an Anthem posted:Right now I have a pe5050 in the repair shop I bought at salvation army, when its fixed it will have in total cost me about 70$ and its a beaaautiful beast. Oooh, I'm an absolute sucker for Perpetuum-Ebner turntables. Teutonic engineering at it's finest. I've wanted a PE2020 (that's the fully automatic one with the fingers that pop up and sense the record size) for about a decade, but because they are so rare here in Australia, I've not been able to get one. Got any pictures or more info? Edit: If this is you posting about it on AK, then not only is it a small world, but holy poo poo am I jealous... That's a PE2020. If it is you, then just get the 78 version of the stylus for whatever Shure cartridge it's got. Diamond 78 stylii last about as long as normal vinyl stylii do - Disposable steel needles for 78s went out about the time record players stopped needing to be wound by hand. Aaaand this is what a PE2020 sounds like playing a clean 78 with a Shure cart! Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Nov 18, 2010 |
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Nov 18, 2010 13:43
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Not an Anthem posted:Heeeeey small world Ooops. Posted that Youtube link from my phone... Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9WX1KepTo4 And yeah, it is a small world! 
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Nov 24, 2010 12:40
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Kinda peeved. Just unpacked my RPM1 and it's running slowly, even with the Speed Box. All signs point to the motor being hosed... At least I've still got the SL-10 to keep me going.
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Jan 2, 2011 06:15
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Paperweight posted:That's a real bummer. Have you checked the platter bearing for lubrication or a lack thereof and if the motor turns just as slowly without the load of the belt and platter on it? If it's anything like a Rega, there should be a steel ball bearing at the bottom of the platter or sub platter bearing cup stuck in place with 90(?) weight gear oil. How is the motor itself situated in it's mounting? Could something be pressing against the other end of the motor's shaft or generally impeding it's rotation? The only other thing I can think of is a faulty motor bearing or a shorted turn in the windings. I hope you can return it to the place of purchase if all else fails. It's 4 years old, ergo no warranty. It's also got a 16v synchronous AC motor, so any manual method of adjusting the speed is going to involve either turning a new slightly smaller pulley, or coming up with a new frequency generator to drive it. No problems with the platter or the motor mounting (the motor is basically bolted to a bracket which is then screwed to the wooden motor platform, not much can go wrong with it). I might look at swapping it for something else, or at least ask the Pro-Ject distributor how much a new motor is as a spare part - It's the same motor used in the entire Debut and the bottom end of the RPM range.
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Jan 2, 2011 12:09
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I built an LM3875 Gainclone. Rather, I started building it 5 years ago and only got around to finishing it a few weeks ago. Nude:  Encased:  Really, everything they say about these is true - They sound stunning, and even more so considering the cost.
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Mar 7, 2011 12:05
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Paperweight posted:http://www.chipamp.com/ Offers the lower powered chip amp kits. Mine is based on the Audiosector LM3875 SE kit, which is just components to stuff two amp and rectifier boards and four PCBs - The rest I scraped together from local parts suppliers. I'll have to dig up the reciepts, but it's cost me around AUD$450 so far...
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Mar 9, 2011 21:51
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Got quite the score today. "Faulty" from eBay. (click for more images) 1986 built Bang & Olufsen Beogram CD50. Wait for it... $22.05 Picked it up, realigned the jammed loading mechanism, cleaned it inside and out, and it works perfectly and looks absolutely immaculate. Not a mark or scratch on it. It also sounds fantastic - Solid, yet fast and detailed. This is my 17th CD player (what obsession? ) and is now the new crown jewel of my collection...bacon! posted:What do you use as your preamp in this case? (Stereo preamp, not phono preamp) I don't see preamp kits on either site. It's got a 10k logarithmic pot as a "preamp" of sorts... The line level signal is fed into it and the output goes to the amp. All it does is attenuate the signal from full line level (1-2V peak to peak, maximum volume) to zero, which is silence.
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Mar 14, 2011 11:09
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Atreyu posted:Some serious help needed. The only options I have on Turntables so far have both got very sparse and/or mixed reviews online. Don't get the Lenco. It's a plastic piece of crap. The Reloop looks to be built to a much higher standard - Machined metal platter and other parts instead of plastic, real bearings in the tonearm, properly adjustable weight settings, and it has a common, reasonably good quality Audio Technica cartridge that can easily be upgraded - Not to mention it weighs 8.6kg... More than double the Lenco. Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Apr 17, 2011 |
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Apr 17, 2011 07:35
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Fozzle posted:Turntable/vinyl newb here. That stylus is well and truly bent. The cartridge, however, is a Shure M92E (which is pretty common) and a replacement stylus assembly is available cheaply from pretty much anywhere.
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May 10, 2011 22:58
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Dogbrisket posted:I just picked up a preamp with decent phono stage built into it last week. As such I've decided to add a turntable to my set up. Can somebody recommend a decent turntable or two under $1000? Project RPM5 with an Ortofon 2M Black or Vivo Blue. The new RPM5 has the full 9cc carbon fibre arm from the RPM9, and it's 90% as good as the 9 at 1/3rd the price.
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May 11, 2011 11:01
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sc0tty posted:Okay, so here are my two latest purchases, and I need advice on a third. (photo's aren't mine, ill take some shots when they are all set up). Remove the remaining feet, get 2 rubber squash balls, cut both in half. One half per corner. Otherwise move the lone foot to the center. It's still possible to make a perfectly flat plane with three points of support, provided you can adjust the height of all three.
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Apr 5, 2012 15:08
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:Just reposting this since the local vintage stereo equipment repair/sales guy was stumped by it too. Being a Realistic Clarinette, I'd be willing to bet it has a BSR changer, though not saying for sure until I see a picture of the arm and underneath the cartridge. If it is, that narrows your search down quite a bit.
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Jul 31, 2012 20:40
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BANME.sh posted:Congrats on your new money sink. That's a good cartridge, and you should have a good time after you replace the stylus (a good idea on any used turntable). Don't forget to flush the top speed control potentiometers (those two big silver things at the bottom of the video still) with some deoxit or similar electrical clean and lube, and then work it through them thoroughly. Old speed pots go noisy when they get dirty just like old volume pots do, except they make the platter speed jump around when you adjust them instead of making audible crackles like a dirty volume pot does.
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Apr 14, 2013 14:37
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I complained a little while ago about the my Pro-ject RPM1 running slowly, and had an idea the other day on how to "fix" it. The Pro-ject's AC synchronous motor, like most others, determines it's rotational speed from the power supply frequency, not the voltage, by using a pair of coils run above and below a permanent magnet attached to the rotor. As mine was running slowly, and I couldn't change the 50Hz line frequency, I devised a way to make my own, and give me very fine control over the motor speed (within reason). Normally the Pro-ject's motor uses a bipolar capacitor to "fake" the phase inversion for the second coil (energizing them alternately is what causes the rotor to spin), so I guessed that I could treat the two coils like a pair of speakers and control them using a pair of sine waves generated from an external source, and boosted to a high enough voltage by an audio amp. Combine audacity on the laptop and a cheap 20W class D amplifier from eBay, and I have a rock solid, stable turntable with zero speed drift.   (blue and white are the top coil, red and yellow are the bottom one) After a bit of tweaking, I found that 50.75Hz was the frequency at which the lines on my strobe disc didn't move. The next step is coming up with a slightly more portable source for the sine wave (I'm thinking a cheap MP3 player of some sort) and an amplifier that starts up at high volume for maximum torque when spinning up the platter and ramps down afterwards to minimize any vibration in the motor. I also finally got around to rebuilding the gainclone into a much nicer rack case salvaged from a very dead subwoofer amplifier:  Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Apr 27, 2013 |
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Apr 27, 2013 18:09
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BANME.sh posted:drat, that's awesome that you figured all that out, but what an insanely convoluted system to get a turntable spinning properly that should be working fine out of the box. It was fine out of the box when I bought it, about 6 years ago. I don't know why, but the motor doesn't run as fast as it used to... The coils are OK, the bearings aren't seized, mechanically, it's fine. The only explanation I can come up with is that the permanent magnet in the motor has lost some of it's flux over time somehow, and that weakness is translating to it running slow. Not an Anthem posted:Recalling you're a pretty big geek (positive way) have you seen the Altmann DIY turntable? This is like a much fancier/cooler version. I'll be modifying this further soon enough. Going to make a laminated ply plinth for it (like the Altmann table), reuse the bearing and tonearm, and build an air bearing linear tracking arm for one side based on an evolution of the Ladegaard design. My plan involves doing away with the knife-edge vertical bearing and making the arm carrier itself the bearing in both horizontal and vertical planes. It'll take some fine tuning to get it to work right, but it should perform pretty well if I can pull it off. Thanks for the "big geek" comment too... I'm quietly proud of it. alg posted:Isn't that what the "Speed Box" is for? http://www.project-audio.com/main.php?prod=speedbox&cat=accessories I do have a Speed Box II, but the problem is it outputs exactly 50Hz, which eliminates speed drift from the AC line frequency (good) but is about .75Hz too low for the motor to run at the right speed (bad). Paperweight posted:I've seen something like that turntable setup before. I'm sure there's some sort of crystal oscillator circuit out there to generate your waveforms. longview posted:That was a pretty cool way of making a turntable work. I'm considering ditching the AC motor altogether so it's likely this will end up being a moot point. I think it's going to be far easier for me to go down the path of a smallish DC motor backed by a PWM controller of some sort with a strobe disc under the platter and an optical sensor controlling a feedback loop for the motor speed. I'll need to get a new pulley as the Pro-ject one is designed for a motor spinning at 300RPM, and the ideal speed for a DC motor will probably be double or triple that. The AC motor also cogs like a bastard and would require some fairly serious isolation, where I can hang a DC motor on an elastic mount or rubber grommets and it'll be virtually silent. I'm pretty average when it comes to micro controller programming, so I think it might end up being my first Arduino project, with the added bonus of being extendable for adding things such as a speed display and easy 33/45 selection, etc... And if I build my air bearing arm, an Arduino could easily control a servo and a stepper motor for cueing & moving the arm hands free. Now I think about it, I could probably also incorporate optical sensors for record sizing and detecting the lead out grooves, which would make it fully automatic, but that's probably getting a bit ahead of myself. Fernando Bumface posted:
Ron Burgundy posted:I hate to disagree with someone who was agreeing with me, but I was speaking specifically of vertical linear trackers. I have owned the extremely similar SL-J3 for many years and it is a fine machine. You absolutely must take the cover off and clean off and reapply white lithium grease to the gantry movement if these are left longer than a couple of years. Fernando, I'm with Ron Burgundy and convinced that your SL-J2 had something wrong with it if it destroyed your records. I don't have any experience with vertical linear trackers, but I *do* have an SL-10 (the granddaddy of Technics linear trackers) that I rebuilt from what was basically a wreck, and have repaired countless other arm-in-lid Technics turntables. Providing these units are well maintained and have the arm sensor (and cueing damper) correctly calibrated, they're one of the gentlest consumer level turntables I've ever come across... The nominal tracking weight for these P-Mount tables is between 1.25 and 1.5g, and the arm servo response is virtually instantaneous. They (the SL-10 at least) can also sound utterly, jawdroppingly amazing with the right cartridge and spotless vinyl. minivanmegafun posted:IIRC some of Sony's high-end tables did indeed use a magnetic strip on the inside of the platter to track speed stability. This is also the reason that a lot of those really rare Sony turntables are now unrepairable. The magnetic strip loses it's polarization or field strength over time, the processor can't detect the platter speed, and they refuse to do anything other than spin half a revolution and stubbornly stop. Don't even get me started on the Biotracer arms. Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 16:45 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 16:30
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Electric Bugaloo posted:Guys, quick! Should I grab a Bang & Olufsen RX-2 with MMC 3 cart in "new condition" for $100? It seems to go for quite a bit more on eBay and it's a loving gorgeous machine but I'm terrified of the whole "expensive-as-poo poo proprietary cartridge" thing. Also, I don't actually need another turntable at the moment and should probably instead spend that money on new carts for the two that I already own. YES YES YES YES YES YES YES ABSOLUTELY loving YES
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Oct 2, 2013 08:09
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Jerry Cotton posted:All the B&O CD players I've used have been utter poo poo (as in will only play a freshly opened Jari Sillanpää CD and nothing else). A record player really can't be that bad so maybe? If anything breaks or wears out, be prepared to pay moose dicks for replacement parts. That's odd, I've had the complete opposite experience. I can't speak for the modern stuff, but I had a Beogram CDX that played drat near anything (including blue CD-Rs), and still have a Beogram CD50 which plays CDs most of my other pre-1990 players won't. The turntables are very solidly engineered - The Beogram 8000/8008 are absolute tanks. The RX2 is a revision of the Beogram 5000/RX (which was made around the same time as the CD50/Beosystem 5000), so I wouldn't think that there'd be any serious issues with it provided it's been taken care of. Sound Smith will become your best friend when you need a new cartridge for it.
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Oct 2, 2013 08:29
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After all the B&O talk, I unpacked and set up the CD50 for the first time in about 18 months. After running for a few minutes, there was a loud hissing noise and a plume of acrid smoke from the power supply as the EMI suppression capacitor on the primary side of the power supply let go:  After 26 years of service, the dielectric broke down and it shorted out. Also discovered the rest of my collection has gotten a bit damp, so I have fourteen other CD players to strip down and inspect in the next few days. Edit: Bonus picture of the decoder board from my Philips CD202. It turns 30 years old in December (as do I), and other than needing some dry joints touched up (typical Philips) and replacing the attached lead with some proper output sockets, it still runs like the day it was made... Unlike me!   (Click for bigger) Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Oct 5, 2013 |
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Oct 5, 2013 06:28
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Aeka 2.0 posted:My Technics 1210 MkII has a broke lifter thing that is on the tone arm. Is there anywhere I can get this piece without buying a whole new tone arm? Make your own then...
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Oct 22, 2013 06:24
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Gomiboy posted:...if you had sealed speaker enclosures you might avoid speaker damage by playing those frequencies at high volumes. Doesn't do much these days, I don't think. Vented. Not sealed.  The fixed volume of air behind the driver in a sealed enclosure serves as a spring to dampen cone movement, so subsonic frequencies are unlikely to cause damage to the driver. In a vented enclosure however, the air is free to move in and out with the movement of the cone, so it's much, much easier for extremely low frequencies at even moderate volumes to push the cone and voice coil beyond their limits of excursion and physically damage the driver.
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Oct 28, 2013 11:02
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That sounds like static discharging between the record and the cartridge's cantilever. Get yourself a Zerostat gun, shoot both sides of the record with it before playing, and increase the relative humidity in the room to lessen the chance of static building up while the record is playing... A couple of small potted plants are a cheap alternative to buying a humidifier.
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Oct 29, 2013 07:30
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BigFactory posted:I picked up a Kenwood KA 501 amp the other day, and to look at it you'd say its been in the box since 1980. There's not even dust inside. The fact that I know there's no dust inside means I've opened it up because its not getting power. I don't see obvious bad solder or anything in the wiring from the plug to the power supply. And one of the three auxiliary plugs conveys power to another device. But 2 don't. What's the next step if youre a total ignoramus? There should be fuses on both sides of the power supply. Check for continuty across each of them with the unit unplugged. Can you post a pic of the inside of the amp? Helps to guide you a bit better. It's possible that that the reason you have power to one of the rear sockets is because one is a pass through that is always powered, and the other two are switched by the amplifier itself.
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Oct 31, 2013 00:55
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BigFactory posted:I got it to power on with a liberal dose of compressed air and jiggling wires by the power supply. Probably not a permanent solution and my left channel is in and out, so I'm going to open it back up for the deoxit treatment. I'll take some pictures over the weekend. If you're jiggling wires, then check for dry joints on all the PCBs. If it's got any, reflow them. It's always a good idea to do this with any vintage piece of electronics gear because a lot of the time, you can spot and stop potential faults before they happen.
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Oct 31, 2013 02:27
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