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I live in the Seattle area, too, and got my Cardigan from Paul Chen on Vashon Island. He is a reputable breeder, and also is a judge for AKC events. Zeke was $500-600 (I can't remember which), and was fixed when we got him. Paul does all the health checks for the breed, but unfortunately I did end up having an issue with Zeke. He has a congenital defect, which has caused extreme bowing in his front legs. Paul says he's never had this happen before, and refunded half of the purchase price for the dog. I know of other people that have dogs from Paul, and none have experienced problems with their dogs. HOWEVER... I found Paul to be kind of iffy with his customer service. Other people have experienced this, too. What it boils down to is whether you are willing to put up with possibly a headache to get your well-bred dog. One person said she had to badger him to get her AKC paperwork for her dog, I had a similar problem. Though, he refunded my money back for the defect as soon as I forwarded proof onto him, with no issues. While I enjoy Zeke very much, I think I am going to go with the C-Myste kennel for my next dog. It looks like they actually have a new litter at the moment! I just really enjoy the look of their dogs, and they are definitely a reputable breeder. If you are looking for someone else, only talk to people that are involved with the Cardigan Welsh Corgi Club of America. Do NOT go to pet stores or newspapers! You need to make sure that the breeder you choose health tests their animals, only breeds champions (or dogs from proven working lines), and offers a guarantee in their contact that protects you in the event that the dog has a genetic illness appear within the first few years. Here's some pics of my Cardi-    And because he was so loving cute as a puppy, here-  
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Dec 1, 2008 06:42
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Captain Foxy posted:So what's the consensus about the energy level of a Cardi? The breeders sites describes them as being more 'laid back' than a PWC, but if they're both designed to be herders, would the Cardi have just as much need for daily strenuous exercise as a PWC? As with any dog, the energy level and drive is going to vary. Zeke's breeder has a farm, and he breeds for an extremely high drive animal. As such, Zeke is a total nutjob. He has driven me crazy from day one! He's 3 now, and has slowed a bunch, but he's still always into everything and the times he just lays down and is still are few and far between. He herds my cats, patrols the house and barks if something is wrong, and is always picking play fights with Bailey. Because of his congenital defect, he has already developed arthritis. I don't usually walk them, because the pounding on concrete is too hard on his joints. Instead, I give them hard runs with the laser for 20 mins a day or so. They are almost never fed out of bowls, they work for their food out of treat dispensing toys. Some days, I forgo the toys and just hide their food throughout the house. This keeps them busy for several hours, as even when the food is gone they continue to look around for it. I encourage their playing, and encourage Zeke to herd the cat when the cat is into something that he shouldn't be. I get high quality chews for them, which they always have on hand. Every week I take him somewhere with me. He goes to my chiropractor to get adjusted with me every few weeks, and most weeks I take him when I visit family. There he plays all day long with other dogs. Basically, I have to essentially have a few tiring activities for them every day. My understanding is that most other Cardis are not as energetic as Zeke is. Really, once you get used to a routine, it's not that difficult to keep him entertained. And they do calm down after about 2 years of age. When Zeke calmed, it was amazing. It literally happened overnight, and while he isn't sedate by any means, he's definitely easier to handle nowadays. If you're able to spend some time with Cardis, you'll definitely get a better idea of what their energy is like. Honestly, my Pem is a lot calmer and lazier than my Cardi. I kind of like my Cardi though in that he definitely "belongs" to just me and my husband. He loves other people, but he is more attached to us than anyone else. My Pembroke would go home with anyone who fed him and gave him attention.
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Dec 1, 2008 20:38
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Pooptron2003 posted:Daym, $600 is a really good price from a reputable breeder. My little guy was originally 1200 but I god a discount of 200 because he was already 6 months old and I knew said breeder. Gah, hurts the pockets. I paid about the same price for my Pembroke, and he comes from parents that were double champions. $1200 seems REALLY high to me, unless he was meant to be shown. Some more pictures!       
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Dec 1, 2008 20:47
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Captain Foxy posted:I definitely want to meet some more PWCs and CWCs and observe commonalities and differences between the breeds. We'll be looking in to finding a Corgi meet-up group in our area (northern CA) so we can get a good idea of the time/space needed. We still don't know where we're going to be living next summer when we move, so we'll need to have that in order before we can think about a puppy, but I'm getting myself excited by looking at breeders in our area. This site is used often by corgi owners looking to meet up and have a play date. I'd also recommend shooting off some e-mails to breeders in the area (only those on the PWCCA or CWCCA member lists) and see if they would let you visit. Another idea that I really recommend is to find a busy dog park in your area. Go on a nice sunny weekend, and no doubt you will probably find at least Pembrokes there. I'm lucky in the Pacific Northwest in that there are a bunch of Cardi breeders here and a lot of the Cardis visit the dog parks frequently. londerwost!!! Go to Magnuson or Marymoor dog parks one of these weekends and you should see a bunch of both Cardis and Pems! Also londerwost, here is the corgi group that meets regularly in our area. Check them out! The group is headed by someone who has a bitch out of the same lines as Zeke. I forget her name, but the Cardi's name is Tova. She's got this whacky eye that is marbled both blue and brown. Tova looks like this:  And for anyone thinking about getting one of these dogs or learning more about them, I cannot recommend Corgi-L enough. Corgi-L is a list group of owners and breeders alike that talk about everything from the tiniest of quirks to hot topics of discussion with each breed. They really are a great resource if ever you have a problem with your dog.
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Dec 2, 2008 00:14
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Congratz on your new baby  She might need her ears to be taped up. Usually they go all floppy again right around the teething stage. How'd you like the lady that runs C-Myste? I can't wait to get a puppy from her
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Jan 2, 2009 06:15
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anachrodragon posted:She was in heaven. I think that's her first experience with raw bones (we feed her Innova puppy food). She chewed on one of those bones for like three hours last night. It was pretty awesome, I think that's the longest she's ever focused her attention on anything. Now I'm going to have to look into finding a butcher nearby... Just don't overdo it. I gave my two their first raw a few days ago. It went swimmingly up until we left the next morning for work. While we were away, Zeke had puked up his raw all over his bedding and out his crate. Regurgitated raw smells worse than the worst animal diarrhea I've ever smelled. I am still catching whiffs of it, and everything near his crate was wiped down with bleach, all the bedding washed thoroughly, and he was wiped down from head to toe in baby wipes. Blech. They get a lot of dried bones and treats, but their stomachs seem to tolerate the beef bones best. Anything richer than that and they get the shits or puke it up. The raw I gave them was a hunk of buffalo bone with only a small amount of meat on it. According to the lady at the premium pet food place, buffalo is about as well tolerated as beef usually is. Why it caused such havoc with my dogs, I do not know... londerwost posted:She knows all the words for food.  Just wait til you have to start spelling it out. Works fine and dandy til they figure out what you mean even if you spell the word. And my pem's latest trick is to just stare at us until we feed him. No matter that dinnertime is 2 hrs away, he faces us, rests his head on the table, and stares. If he doesn't have success with me, he'll look at my husband. DRIVING ME NUTS. Miss Indy fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 17, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 07:41
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Regarding the pet store or BYB corgis, you can usually tell which ones they are by a quick glance. Non-foxy face, too-long legs, a nub that is more tail than nub. I don't think anyone is stupid for loving their dog, but I think they need to realize that they could have a hugely expensive problem in their hands a few years down the road. Slipped discs, eye issues, arthritis, vWD, dysplasia. There's one gal here whose badly bred corgi developed dysplasia at just a few years old. Not only is that a heartbreaking diagnosis for the dog, but it can break the owner's pockets. Getting a corgi from a non-reputable source isn't just unethical, it's not a wise financial decision. Not to say that even well-bred corgis are without issue. The difference in these reputable breeders is threefold: 1) You have less of a chance of problems because they test for the most common issues, 2) You have financial recourse (most/all the purchase price back), and 3) A support system. When my dog was diagnosed with a congenital limb deformity, I immediately got a good chunk of his purchase price back and ideas on where to be taking him for treatment. Eff Jay posted:I think the blond/white are probably the most common, tri's behind those and then the red/whites being the most rare in my area, at least as far as I've seen. Blond/white isn't one of their coat colors. There are red/whites (which can range in the reds... your "blonds" are actually reds), tri colors, and sables. Cardigans come in red/white, black/white, merle, sable, and brindle.
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Feb 20, 2009 16:31
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anachrodragon posted:Still that's one case that has some PI history, not "many of the dogs." But whatever, I think the important thing here is that this thread continues to make an effort to direct people to good breeders. Half, if not most of the corgis posted here are not well bred animals.
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Feb 20, 2009 16:33
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On barking: Sach, I'm pretty sure there is a huge difference between Afghans and corgis, in that corgis will absolutely bark and bark often. Almost every corgi I have ever met will bark and bark at the slightest of provocations, and most owners either don't correct it or are unable to do so. This is part of what they were meant to do, not just herd but also be a watchdog for the farm. In working with my dogs on this issue, just verbally correcting their indoor barking did not work. I was extremely consistent, but they would still bark at the slightest noise. The method I used to fix this goes like this- the dogs are always allowed one free bark. They can and will bark at everything from the cats getting into something, a neighbor walking down stairs, or a squirrel on the deck. That's fine with me, that's part of owning this breed of dog and I'm cool with it. If I don't want them to continue, I tell them "that's enough". If they bark even once after I give them that command, I say "too bad", and nothing more. They are then led by the collar into a room, and I shut them in there for 10-15 seconds. This is really a harsh punishment for them, because they are removed from the exciting stimulus that is causing the bark, which sucks for them. When the time out is up, I open the door and ignore them and let them do their thing. If they are crying/barking or pawing the door, they aren't let out until they stop. If they bark again within a minute or two of being let out, I say "too bad" again and they go right back in the room. You don't say "that's enough" again until about 10-15 minutes have passed. It only took a few time outs before they were nearly 100% reliable at shutting up when I say so. Now, there are instances in which I will never correct them for barking. I will actually encourage it in certain circumstances. 1) If some strange person walks on my deck or by a window, and 2) If there is something absolutely wrong with either my husband or I. I passed out a few months ago in a gated off room, and my Cardi put up the most ferocious barking that it freaked my husband up out of bed. He was charging the gate and trying to get help, and we rewarded him big time for that. flutterbyblue posted:Maybe they just feel they have to justify loving it since it's not well bred or an "insult to the breed". And since people get emotionally attached to animals it's hard to separate "I went with a bad source, I'll do better next time" and "She came from a bad place, she is a failure because of it," especially because there is a connotation that there is something wrong with the dog if it comes from a pet store (valid because a lot of them are sickly, have genetic issues because of poor breeding, etc.) Just my thoughts. My parents/my childhood dog was a BYB Lasa. We got lucky that he's been pretty much healthy for all his 13 years. When we got him, it didn't even cross my mind that it might have been a bad idea. The thing is, most people who have gotten their badly bred corgis are infurioratingly indignant about it. They think the dog is fine in this moment, therefore the dog will always be medically fine. That just isn't the case, as most genetic illnesses show up years into the dog's life. And if you really luck out and don't have problems with it, they wrongly think that all BYB/milled dogs are a-ok. It's that attitude that I have a problem with, because it means that there are going to be more of these badly bred corgis produced. If someone genuinely realizes the error of their ways and does it right next time, the lesson is learned and hopefully it doesn't bite them too hard in the rear end. RazorBunny posted:ratting corgi A lot of people don't realize that the purpose of a corgi is not just to herd the farmer's sheep. They were meant to be an all-around working dog for the farmer. Meaning, they would go herd some lifestock, go do some ratting, act as a watchdog, and hang out with the family. They aren't as neurotic about herding as other dogs are... say the border collie. Corgis will go herd the sheep, and chillax with his family on the couch afterwards. That's what I really like about these breeds, they aren't anywhere near the neurotic "gogogo" drive that borders and other herders have. Not that this dog is good for someone who is a dog novice!
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Feb 21, 2009 06:23
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anachrodragon posted:I thought I might as well ask for advice here. Our corgi pup has learned this new game called "if I sit by the door they'll take me outside." We're trying to move away from taking her outside to go potty pre-emptively, and rather let her tell us when she needs to go out. The problem is that she wants to go outside every five minutes. Congratulations, you've been hoodwinked by your dog. Know that this is the first of many manipulations to come My dog did exactly this when we were potty training him. The best advice I can give is twofold. First, attach a command to pottying. For mine, it's "go potty". When she goes outside, say that command EVERY TIME she goes and praise her like hell when she does. When she goes outside and is sniffing around to find a spot, say the command. She will eventually put two and two together, faster than you might think. I also never used outside for playing so he wouldn't get confused and think he could "ask" to go outside to play. Outside was for pottying and pottying only for the first few weeks. Once our dog started manipulating us like yours is doing to you, we went back to a very strict crate schedule. He was either in the crate, or out doing a specific activity. There was no "hanging out" outside his crate for a week or two until he got it firmly in his noggin that I wasn't going to make a game of this. So, just as an example, here's a sample of the schedule we kept him on: 7am, wake up and go out for potty 7:15, back to crate while I got ready for work 7:45, breakfast and quick play session 8:15, potty and back to crate 11:00, dog walker comes by, dog is let out for potty 11:10, play with dog walker inside 12:00, back to crate 3:00, I get home and let him out for potties 3:10, intense play 4:10, potty 4:20, crate ....and so on. He never was allowed to just loiter around until he had stopped with the potty trick. Know that your puppy will reliably have to go after being in a crate for a period of time, after intense play, and after eating. If you let her out consistently after those activities, she will get it much faster. Be consistent and don't let her push you around, or you will have a terror on your hands when she reaches adulthood. EDIT: Almost forgot. To cue the behavior where she tells you when she needs to go, always have her do something specific before you take her outside (when you know she has to go). My dogs must sit by the door if they want out. So before I would let them out as puppies, they had to sit and then I would take them out. Now as adults, every single time they want out they sit and wait by the door. You can also bell train her, but I don't have experience with that. Miss Indy fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Feb 25, 2009 |
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Feb 25, 2009 05:21
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Yeah, I never get the smaller chews for my dogs. EXCEPT for the raw, the raw bones I gave them were the smallest that Mud Bay had. I do get the smaller bully sticks (6" max) and then only let them have half at a time in order to avoid upset tummies. Those pizzles are super rich, and if they were to eat a whole one in one sitting, they would for sure get the shits. Have you checked out Mud Bay yet? It's such a great store, they always send me home with a bunch of samples of treats. And their selection of bones is awesome and fairly inexpensive. My favorites there are these beef bones about a foot or so long, where one end is knuckle shaped. They've got a bunch of dried tendon/meat on there, and they're only $4 a pop. They also have the huge bully sticks. I need to get a pair of gardening shears or something so that I can get a huge one and just snip it down serving by serving for them. Seems it'd be cheaper to go that route. Another great thing that Mud Bay has a lot of are the puzzle treat-dispensing toys. One of the activities my dogs regularly do is to get their dinner out of them. I've got 4-5 different brands of those toys, and I rotate them so they get something different every night. My favorites are the Buster Cube, Tricky Treat Ball, Treatstik, and the Canine Leo. Just pour her kibble into it, she'll figure out the rest. It's a great form of both mental and physical exercise.
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Feb 27, 2009 16:39
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londerwost posted:D'awwwwww! Very cute coat, though she probably doesn't need it. Corgi coats are very thick! Even when it was in the teens and 20s a winter or two back, my dogs were a-ok for hour+ long trips in the snow. Though I guess puppy coats don't have that dense undercoat that the adults have. As much as I like dressing my dogs up in retarded sweaters, they seem to get too hot living here in the Seattle area. Zeke a little less so, as his undercoat and fat layer isn't nearly as thick as Bailey's.
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Mar 10, 2009 01:15
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pioneermax posted:I knew thered be fur you know but i never ever expect this much freaking fur. Corgis shed-- this is a well-known fact of the breed (either of them). I know that in every single thread I caution people of this, and other undesirable traits like barking and inappropriate herding. Anyway, out of blowing season, it's an incredible amount compared to other breeds. When they are blowing, every surface the dogs touch is covered. There are two approaches to this problem- 1) Groom your dog with a brush that effectively pulls the loose undercoat out. This will need to be done DAILY during blowing season, and every few days outside of blowing season. Bathing shouldn't exceed once a month, and you should be using a high powered blower to get most of the excess undercoat out. Vacuuming will also need to be done every few days as well. You will still find fur on your clothes, furniture, and in your food, but it will be dramatically lessened. 2) Embrace the fur. Don't let it bother you. Accept the breed for the way it is, and groom as often as you feel is necessary. Invest in sticky tape rollers, and avoid going near them or sitting on any furry surface in your work clothes. I chose option two. My dogs get groomed when they obviously need it (tufting, when they start to smell-- which isn't often). I vacuum when I can see a decent amount of fur on the rugs. I don't mind plucking a stray hair or two out of whatever it is I'm eating. It's just dog fur, it's not gonna kill you. If it bothers you that much, you seriously chose the wrong breed.
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Mar 27, 2009 20:54
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Tristesse posted:That is a huge shame, they seem like excellent breeders as well. Down here it's a huge epidemic for people to seal purebred puppies from homes. Even the petland down the street from me was robbed by someone who took some shitpoos or something. I hope they recover them. While it's a shame the dogs were stolen, these are not reputable breeders. If you review the link posted, they are offering stud services and are breeding out of animals that do not have their championships in showing. The dog they offer for stud services does not even have CH parents, has not had CERF testing, nor is OFA tested. The stud isn't the only one that isn't OFA tested- almost all of the dogs still need hip testing. I don't like the look of most of their dogs. The faces are too block-like, and should be more foxy in appearance. They almost look the way Cardis should look, what with the heavy head and body structure. In addition, they use/recommend Purina for their dogs and for all future puppies. Definitely not the best option, I'd be sketched by any breeder who uses it and feels so strongly about it that they recommend it to all future families. In short, this is a good example of a breeder to stay away from. They have potential to be good once their dogs have proven themselves in the ring and have been fully health tested, but for now they are just churning out puppies that really shouldn't be brought into this world.
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Jun 24, 2009 04:27
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Original Gamer posted:I appreciate the insight. I thought right off the bat things were shady when she said she takes pictures when they are first born and then you send in a $100 non-refundable deposit to reserve the puppy you like...in the picture...at 1 week old. I'm sorry, but I want to be able to play with a litter and find a dog based on personality. I got my Pem from someone listed on the PWCCA website, without having seen the litter. It actually went amazingly well... I filled out a huge stack of paperwork, and the breeder was constantly in touch with me as the puppies developed and gained personalities. I had my hopes on one particular puppy, but in the end she said that its personality would not match with my lifestyle. So I got one that was more laid back, and he's been a perfect fit into our family. My breeder was in Missouri, and she flew him to us as cargo. I was certain he'd be shaken up by the whole thing, but when we popped the crate open he bounced out as if he'd flown a million times before. Anyway, check out the PWCCA website, and don't be afraid if the breeder is not in your state. Quality dogs are worth the extra effort, both in saving you medical bills and having better personalities.
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Jun 25, 2009 02:27
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abaddonis posted:Yeah, I assume she'll grow a little more in the next few months, she's only 10 months old. I'm just a little paranoid. I used to worry all the time about her hips, but it looks like she is fine. She only "bunny hops" when she is running and she has no pain, limp, problem jumping up onto furniture. I know I'm not a vet and those aren't the only signs, but I'm under the impression those are the big tell-tales of hip dysplasia. Bunny hopping at that young of an age is a real concern. That bunny hopping is going to progress as she ages, especially if you keep her at a "normal" weight. She really needs to be a few lbs underweight so as to avoid putting unnecessary stress on her joints. Were I you, I'd see about getting her hips checked ASAP. Anyway... two new pics of my boys and an update:   My corgis have been keeping me on my toes. Spoiled brats that they are, they really did not appreciate the transition of me from being a stay at home student/wife to working full-time. They've guilt-tripped me into trips every other week or so to the premium pet food store for high quality chews. I usually get a mixed bag of parts: "bone shaped" knuckles, hollow (marrow-stuffed) beef bones, pizzles, compressed rawhide, knuckle joints, Merrick and other high quality wet foods, and the occasional raw bison joint. They still get run with the laser, food out of puzzle toys, but we've just dramatically increased the amount of chewing. I keep a close eye on my dogs, and I don't like them to be even a pound or two above their norms. Zeke's arthritis is really progressing, and Deramaxx doesn't work on him anymore. We decided to go with a heavy duty course of Adaquan, which is a series of injections that start off at twice a week. It was a huge surprise for me that he had gained almost 5lbs! For a dog that typically hovers around 18-22, that was quite a bit! He is not fat by any means, but he is now at what I would consider an unhealthy weight for a dog that has the orthopedic problems that he does. His coat is much sleeker, though, and he's acting happier. So maybe less pizzle and more of the jerky style bones We took a tricks class a few weeks back, and both dogs are consistently jumping through hoops, sitting pretty, hitting a Staples "Easy" button when placed in front of them, jumping into boxes, bowing, rolling over, etc. It's nice to have a few things extra that they can do, and they love to learn as many new behaviors as possible. Next weekend we are turning off our cell phones and taking them out to the mountains. I don't know how the hell they know what "camping" means, but as soon as I said it both dogs ran and sat by the front door to go. They're going to take a bear and a cougar down each, they are certain of this.
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Jun 27, 2009 00:08
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anachrodragon posted:
Zeke is really small for a Cardi. Cardis really are chunkier than Pembrokes, and weigh in the range of 25-38lbs. It's always better to err on the side of lighter, I agree with your vet. On hopping- not all hopping is bad. Bouncing dogs are happy dogs! But the bunny hopping we're talking about is like a two-legged limp. You can't really mistake it for a bounding dog. It visually looks as though the dog's rear legs aren't working properly. If you're really worried, try and grab a video of it. Josie came from a great breeder, and I'm sure her parents have good hips.
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Jun 27, 2009 00:57
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londerwost posted:It's around 100 degrees in Seattle right now and poor Josie is melting. It's a good thing we got hard floors which are way cooler than the old berber carpet we used to have. Time to play ice cube fetch! Poor Josie  My condo stays pretty cool so my corgis are pretty unphased. Just be really careful about letting her walk on pavement. I took Bailey with me to Spokane a while back when it was this hot, and his pads got burnt just walking across a parking lot. Do you have a yard? Corgis + kiddie pools are the best! We're taking ours to a lake this weekend and we're going to see if we can get some Dock Dogs out of my two.
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Jul 30, 2009 06:20
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More corgis, yes? Zeke is a superstar swimmer! We also just found out that one of his molars has a bad slab fracture and will need to come out next week. Poor dude
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Sep 4, 2009 17:09
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Eff Jay posted:So, after much consideration, I've broadened my horizons (thanks, in large, to this thread) and am considering making Frank's sibling a Cardi despite my original partiality to Pems. For you Portland/Seattle Corgi-freaks, C-Myste is the breeders y'all have used, yeah? And for those of you who did C-Myste, which Cardi's were the parents of your furry, funny little chilren? My wife and I are probably going to start bugging them about there next few litters and trying to get one from them, as we're moving to a house (with a big yard!!!!) and it's going to be perfect for creating/continuing my devlish Corgi army. My current Cardi comes from a good breeder in Vashon Island, WA (Afara Kennel). Though he has more herding drive and lighter body structure than I'm looking for, C-Myste is more classic Cardi look and is definitely a good breeder. I'm going with them next.
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Sep 22, 2009 05:40
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anachrodragon posted:I was thinking about the discussion of designer mutts and "hybrid vigor" when I saw this article: Oh wow, that breeder's main line is the Perrymist line from England-- that's Bailey's father's line! It's a very excellent line indeed, if I do say so myself Those poor Pyr-Corgis, corgi dwarfism stumpy legs are not meant to handle the bulky weight of a Pyr body. Those dogs are definitely going to have back issues later on in life. EDIT- Actually, in looking at one of the dog's pedigrees, Bailey's dad IS the father! For Ch. Melyn Rhos Joelle Marouani, not the immediate parents but the next line up... Sire Ch Perrymist Red Affair ROMX. Kickass! Miss Indy fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Nov 7, 2009 |
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Nov 7, 2009 06:43
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streetlamp posted:Live corgi puppies! !!! This is Bailey's breeder, she raises great dogs.
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Jan 21, 2010 18:29
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infestedtwinkie posted:Can anyone recommend a reputable pembroke breeders, preferably on the west coast. Still shoot off an e-mail to the people on those lists and ask them if they have litters planned or if they know of other reputable breeders that have upcoming litters. It's a lot of legwork to get a good dog, but it's completely worth it in the end. You can also try contacting the Marpran kennel, as they currently have a pair of pups, and have another litter planned for this year. The two puppies are likely spoken for, but you can get on a waiting list for the newer litter. She's located in MO, but I'm in Seattle and can vouch for the fact that she picked the best puppy (temperament-wise) for me. She would also probably know if there are any other breeders that have pups available soon. Another person to ask is Kathi Gangi. She's located in Washington state. If you shoot her off an e-mail, she may know if there any litters in the area coming up soon.
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Feb 3, 2010 04:43
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The Dave posted:Now that I finally got my stuff in order I can introduce you to my beautiful little Corgi that I got last week, Taziki! Is this the corgi that you had questions about? Because that does not look right for either Pembrokes OR Cardigans. Her ears are too small/pointy, her face is too round, and her legs are too long. I'm wondering what breeder you used, and if they are a member of the PWCCA? I'm guessing not, and I'm wondering why would go elsewhere after we have all explained how important it is to get your corgi from a reputable source...
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Feb 17, 2010 23:54
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The Dave posted:I did get her from that breeder which the information I got from a close friend who has a sister that works at our local vet. They had papers for everything, met both parents, seemed very nice, healthy and were absolutely Pembrokes; Also had vet papers for the parents. Papers don't mean anything as far as quality is concerned. I'm not meaning to rain on your parade, but your puppy is very clear to me to be from a BYB. It looks nothing like a quality pup should. At the very least, I'd hope the puppy was OFA/vWD/and vision tested. There's more information about it in the New Puppy thread.
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Feb 18, 2010 05:00
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lu lu lu posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPJPdLd8rzU Gorgeous! I'm so jealous of all the newer Cardi babies! I can't wait until I've got a farm and I can get another...
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Feb 27, 2010 05:38
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lu lu lu posted:Butters is a good dog name and he is adorable. Stout little paws Did you do this at Ewe-topia? I'm trying to find something closer than south sound to let Zeke herd something other than cats.
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Oct 16, 2010 03:12
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Instant Jellyfish posted:Take the whole "pack leader" thing with a grain of salt, dogs don't really work like that. Just be consistent, fair and understanding. They can be bossy but they're not trying to take over the world or your family. Even though she's not a puppy read the puppy thread for some great info. Also I can't recommend a good, positive training class enough for bonding with your new dog and really learning how to work together. Most even allow the whole family to participate which can be great for kids. Yeah the pack leader thing is not really how these dogs work. You do have to be firm, but the best way to have things go well is to *really* work the NILIF method. Corgis love to work, love to please, and love FOOD. I often have them do strings of commands just to work them and keep fresh on their "tricks". In one succession I'll tell them- sit, high five, down, roll over, sit, play dead, kisses, go thru hoop. This isn't mean or anything, they actually really enjoy doing tricks as it always ends with a treat or a lot of praise. Sometimes they will get uppity and be disobedient. They WILL walk all over you if you let them, but you gotta find ways to put your foot down so that doesn't happen. Examples- my dogs are allowed one bark, I give a command "that's enough", if they bark again I shut them in a different room for about 15 seconds, then release them. They don't get another warning for around 15 minutes after that, if they bark again it's right back to the room for another 15 seconds. They test this CONSTANTLY, and will whine/grumble/sigh/huff and then look at me to see if they are going to get a reaction. They now know they can do all of those things, it's the bark that gets them removed from the situation. For the most part, they no longer need timeouts. However, if I get lazy about enforcing this, they quickly jump on it and will bark even after the quiet command. It takes a short time of really strict enforcement and they are back to following the command. Another example is that I don't want them in the kitchen when I am cooking. They used to be constantly underfoot and it was causing real danger, so I used the command "out of the kitchen!" and they move and sit on the edge of the carpeting that leads to the kitchen. If they put so much as a paw on the tile, I give the command. If they don't move, I walk right up into them until they are at the line again. They don't even need that anymore, they just know to sit there and wait until I'm done in there and then they can check it out. I try to not put them in situations where I know they will fail. If someone is out doing yardwork in view of the window, I put the dogs away so that they aren't going to have to be getting a ton of quiet commands and subsequent timeouts. If people are visiting that regularly encourage them to jump up, I put the dogs into an X-pen so that they aren't tempted. The more proactive you are, the less stressed out you'll be with handling unwanted behavior.
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Oct 17, 2010 09:47
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Bizkitty posted:Thanks for all the training info. My husband and I have had our 7 month old Corgi for 3 months now and she really caught onto the kitchen training, but the bark training has been a bit tough. I think I'm going to try the way you do it Make sure when you do this that you do not add ANY extra talking. When the pup violates the no bark rule, you just walk them straight to the other room and shut them in there. So it goes- *bark* That's enough. *bark* Too bad. (walk them silently to other room, shut door, wait 15 seconds, open door) Any other barks within about 10-15 minutes do not get warnings. You jump in with this step- *bark* Too bad. (walk them silently to other room, shut door, wait 15 seconds, open door) Rinse and repeat for however long they bark. They often get frustrated and might refuse to walk but you put them right in that room. In the beginning they may need a helluva lot of timeouts, but they WILL get the connection. My dogs already are walking to time out room when I say "too bad" now. Oh, and don't open the door if they are barking on the other side. You only reward them with coming back out when they have been quiet for a few seconds.
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Oct 20, 2010 04:01
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Brookehaven is amazing, I'm so happy a fellow goon is getting a pup from Kathi! My pem isn't from her kennel, but she's been such a great source of information and support throughout my dog's life. You haven't seen Kathi til you've seen her at a picnic with about 11 corgis, all under her every command She will name them off by name and tell them to go into an x-pen, and a huge mass of corgi just runs right in like they're told! Were I to get another pem, I'd almost certainly go with one of Kathi's pups. Congrats on your new baby!
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Oct 28, 2010 03:55
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People don't believe me when I say that Zeke howls, but tonight I finally got around to taking video of it- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysrRMF3lOi8
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Oct 30, 2010 03:07
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anachrodragon posted:Help me goons. Work both the mouth and the mind. Every meal in the treat toys, Kongs stuffed with peanut butter/banana and frozen solid, and other chews. Sometimes I'll do a food hiding game- no toys, just hiding little caches of food all over the house. Release the dog after it's hidden, and the dog has to find the spots. Make it a little more difficult by hiding things under rugs and in shoes or whatnot. Another really great idea is to pump NILIF-- make Josie work for everything. You can also be teaching her new tricks, meshing them up with existing commands, and having her run through them for 15-20 minutes to wear her out. If you have commands that need to be polished (ie sit/stay), now is a great time to work on it. And make sure she's getting a longer walk in every night, just keep it at a stroll. You can make sure she doesn't rocket off by doing the walk after another activity so she's a little tired.
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Jan 19, 2011 05:41
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Medusula posted:If you have a merle corgi (Miss Indy's corgi is a merle) then you should know that again it has border collie in it, a lot of collie pet breeders will tell you they are rare, this isn't true. Farmers deliberately don't breed merles because they can have some health issues, blindness as they grow older is a big one. Whaaaat, I doubt that. Merle coating comes in many different breeds-- doxies, Aussies, ACDs come to mind first. And merles don't have health problems unless they are a double merle (offspring of two merle parents). BTW if you all have not seen "The King's Speech" you really should. If not for the awesome story but the many Pemmies.
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Jan 23, 2011 09:11
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ButWhatIf posted:Have any of the Washington Corgoons been to Ewetopia before? It's in Roy, which is a bit of a drive for the Seattlites (finally, an advantage of living in Tacoma!), but my friend who takes her BC there every few months says the drive is completely worth it. They've got a fenced dog park and agility equipment while you wait for your lesson, and they offer both sheep and ducks. I'm really wanting to go but I've heard horror stories of the trainers there beating dogs with the herding canes. Just make sure they know not to touch your dog unless it's actively like.. ripping a sheep apart or something.
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Feb 9, 2011 08:14
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ButWhatIf posted:Is it a corgi or a bull terrier? YOU DECIDE. Wait, what happened??! That's what Zeke looks like when he tries to mouth bees...
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Oct 31, 2011 04:10
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Wonder Bra posted:Ugh, Corwin has little scabs all over him. In the summer, I thought they were just flea bites, so we started him on another round of Advantage. But they're still there, and there are more of them, plus a bunch of what look like moles or pigmentation. I know the moles are likely harmless dog-spots, and that skin cancer doesn't manifest like this, but my husband works in oncology, so I'm paranoid. I hope he just has a skin allergy or something. His coat looks great despite all this, but to the vet we go! You're in the Seattle area right? My good friend's father is a dermatology vet in the Lynnwood/Mill Creek area. They work a lot with skin conditions and allergies. Let me know if you are interested in their info, apparently dermatology vets are hard to find.
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Nov 17, 2011 16:18
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I am the proudest corgi mom ever, we took Zeke to a farm to see if he could herd. And boy, could he ever. I didn't say a word to him, but he kept moving the sheep and any time one would stray, he'd bring it back to the herd and then bring the herd to me. It was the coolest thing I've ever seen one of my dogs do!! I guess we'll be taking lessons now, hopefully I'll be able to get my own farm in the next few years so that he can have his own livestock.
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Jan 8, 2012 01:06
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ButWhatIf posted:Can I ask where you guys went? I've been wanting to give herding a go with Neige when she's old enough, but the only local-ish place is Ewetopia, and I've heard mixed things about their handling style (PVC pipes and such to keep the dogs from damaging the sheep). While it makes sense when you've got Dutch Shepherds or Malinois working the sheep, she's just a little corgi-girl and having a rough go would likely color her experience permanently. We went to http://fidosfarm.com/ which apparently has fewer problems than Ewetopia. I actually really liked the lady that did our herding assessment. She was quick to point out when we were doing things right, gave clear direction on what to work on, and just overall was very enjoyable to be around. Still in Olympia basically but I've already got plans to go back in a couple weeks Attaching a pic of Zeke totally kicking rear end and taking names.
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Jan 10, 2012 03:14
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Good lord, is Guiness ever cute! Zeke and I are still herding, he is a non-stop delight for our trainer. She especially likes it when he gets all "mean" with the sheep and gives them what for. Occasionally he does walk away from the herd with a mouthful of wool, which is both naughty and a little  She thinks we can compete at a sheepdog trial on Memorial Day weekend. We are now working the most challenging sheep she has, big groups of younger lambs. He's starting to get the hang of come by and away to me, and does a beautiful walk up. The hardest part of the whole thing IMO is the stuff I have to learn. Zeke totally gets the concept of keeping the sheep together and bringing them to me. He falters when my directions are unclear, or when I don't read his exhaustion/boredom levels right. When we first get into the ring he is very good about grouping them and pulling them from the fence line, towards the end of our sessions he tends to split them and not listen as well to me. Anyway, a pic of him bringing the sheep to my husband.
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Mar 31, 2012 04:01
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Break Fast posted:That's blue merle isn't it? I love my Corgi a lot, but I must admit that I was looking for a blue merle boy at first, since they are just incredibly pretty for me. Yeah he's a blue merle. He was well trained before we ever started herding. He's got a very high herding drive, and is incredibly eager to please me. Unlike my Pembroke Bailey, I'm able to stop Zeke on a dime regardless of whatever temptation he is facing. We had a lot of luck with clicker training. He's very good at "offering" behaviors and trying new things to see if it's what I want. Bailey will not give a poo poo about me if something better is in front of him. He's still a good boy, but I'm pretty sure he would be a useless herder. At the end of the sessions Zeke does tend to shut his ears off and will start rolling in mud or eating sheep poop. We watch him closely, and when he starts showing signs of fatigue or boredom, we will switch to something more challenging or cut it off for the day. One of the go-to's when he is getting really bored is that we will open up a gate and begin moving the sheep from pasture to pasture. Just the process of getting the sheep to and through the gate is enough to get him back in the game. Here's another pic (excuse my mug) during a good run. You can see he is going for the loose ones that are separating from the herd WITHOUT cutting them or making them divert from coming to me. That's exactly what he is supposed to do, bring the sheep to me without letting any get away. The tool I am using is a paddle. The paddle never makes contact with the sheep or Zeke- it's a tool used to help show him the direction he needs to go until he fully understands come by (clockwise) and away to me (counter clockwise). The dog and the sheep are on an invisible line; I stand on either side of the line and hold the paddle out on the opposite side of the line that I want him to go (if that makes any sense). So if I want him to go clockwise, I'd move to the right of the line between him and the sheep. He views the paddle as solid object, so he is forced to go around and come by. Other people use flags, but that was a problem for us as Zeke didn't view the flag as a solid object. He actually thought the flag was a toy or another game, and things deteriorated until we switched to the paddle. Now we only use the paddle
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Mar 31, 2012 17:20
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