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Frosty- posted:I think they've said everything will be okay even without the bracket, but their lack of movement on this is mind-blowing. Corksport and cp-e have alternatives, though. That's not true - Cobb has stated NOT to run without the bracket, because the vibrations incurred from doing so would over time ruin the MAF sensor. And since the bracket has the tendency to break, that's what makes me nervous. Anything with the word "sensor" in the name is bound to be expensive to replace.. 
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Jan 18, 2009 18:08
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I have a hard time believing a MAF sensor could be ruined by vibrations considering that the entire thing will be vibrating like a motherfucker to begin with. I'm just going to run bracket-less or do some quality ziptie work to secure it to the engine. I don't have it yet but I'm thinking mounting it off of something to the plastic cover on the intercooler might work best. It's easy to drill into, doesn't matter if it breaks and in theory should be close enough. If you slot the connections slightly and use soft grommets to allow some movement since both pieces ought to be independent of each other.
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Jan 18, 2009 20:12
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Sublime Process posted:And since the bracket has the tendency to break, that's what makes me nervous. One solution would be to release an airbox that fits into the stock location but doesn't constrict the flow. That would also help keep some small amount of grime and poo poo from spraying all over the engine bay, which would make me happy. This should be really easy to do, but neither Cobb nor cp-e has done more than say "Oh yeah, that sounds like a pretty good idea that maybe we'll do someday or not." Unrelated to Cobb's SF Intake snapping poo poo into pieces, but related to our cars: I need to replace one of the bushings that attach the TMIC to the engine. It's the front passenger-side one if anyone cares, but I'm almost certain all three are identical. Like I said earlier, I lost the little metal center bit, and I haven't been able to find it in my garage, so I guess it's gone forever. Where would I buy something like that? Also: the bolt I broke by being a doofus. It's one of the two that hold the plastic cover onto the intercooler. I twisted the head right off, and didn't leave enough to get ahold of with vise grips, so I guess I need to back it out using some kind of drill bit I don't have. Questions: Can I buy an accessory that'll work with my Dremel that'll allow me to do that, or should I go get a real power drill? I'm guessing I'll need to fix the threads that I hosed up, so how am I going to go about that? January funtime: Cobb's silicone turbo inlet pipe is supposed to be available for purchase this month. Personally, I'd rather they release the effing bypass valve already, or the airbox, or a downpipe or shifter or catback for the MS6, but I'll take a blue tube, I guess. They're not stating a price yet, which makes sense, but I'd expect somewhere between 85 and 105 dolla. Apple half-fixed my computer, so now that I have it back I'll post up some logs with more information later.
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Jan 18, 2009 22:34
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Frosty- posted:One solution would be to release an airbox that fits into the stock location but doesn't constrict the flow. That would also help keep some small amount of grime and poo poo from spraying all over the engine bay, which would make me happy. Do you know if Cobb's airbox is supposed to fix like you say? But then again,  when that thing will be released. Also, are you just talking about road grime in general or poo poo coming off the filter?
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Jan 18, 2009 23:03
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Frosty- posted:Unrelated to Cobb's SF Intake snapping poo poo into pieces, but related to our cars: I need to replace one of the bushings that attach the TMIC to the engine. It's the front passenger-side one if anyone cares, but I'm almost certain all three are identical. Like I said earlier, I lost the little metal center bit, and I haven't been able to find it in my garage, so I guess it's gone forever. Where would I buy something like that? Any reason you couldn't cut a length of steel tubing to the proper length and use that? Just install it into the rubber bushing and you're set.
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Jan 18, 2009 23:43
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On the MS6, where the hell are safe jacking points? I think the rear diff is ok to jack, but where do I put the jackstands? I hate to sound like a dummy, but I really just have no idea where to safely jack it up, and then put it on stands.
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Jan 19, 2009 01:53
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:On the MS6, where the hell are safe jacking points? I think the rear diff is ok to jack, but where do I put the jackstands? I hate to sound like a dummy, but I really just have no idea where to safely jack it up, and then put it on stands. I recommend you Google this, but if it's the same as the 3, you drive up onto a pair of 2x4s and jack it up by the crossmember. Jackstands go under the pinch welds just like normal.
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Jan 20, 2009 00:49
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I did Google it. It's hard to narrow down to a specific car, and even then it's hard to sort through and find good solid information. For instance, the 6 isn't like the 3 for the rear. The rear diff is actually supposed to be a good place to jack it up. I don't know where the jackstands would go after that point, though. There are a couple of good places, but they would place the car WAY off the ground and even with good jackstands it makes me nervous to crawl under there.
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Jan 20, 2009 01:35
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Give the car a few good shoves in every direction, and make sure the jackstands are making good contact on all feet. If it doesn't move when you do that, it's not going anywhere while you wrench on it. I'm extra careful about doing that since I felt a car move a little bit while I was getting ready to pry some exhaust apart from underneath. I looked behind my head and saw that one of my jackstands was balanced precariously on 2 of 4 feet. 
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Jan 20, 2009 04:15
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I always shove as hard as I can in every direction. For some reason I was just super nervous this time. I guess I'm just getting old or something 
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Jan 20, 2009 05:58
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Kynetx posted:I recommend you Google this, but if it's the same as the 3, you drive up onto a pair of 2x4s and jack it up by the crossmember. Jackstands go under the pinch welds just like normal. Are jackstands supposed to go under the pinch welds? I usually put them under some part of the sub-frame.
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Jan 20, 2009 13:37
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There aren't any NAPA paper filters that mate to the Cobb SRI, but Amsoil has one that will: EAAU4560. It's a bit longer but it will fit fine apparently.
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Jan 23, 2009 20:07
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Threw SRI on, loud as hell even in the cabin surprisingly enough. Wonderfully obnoxious and it does feel a bit better. Seeing as this is my only mod and the gas in this area is 92 or 93 octane, I shouldn't worry about planning on getting an AP at any point should I?
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Jan 24, 2009 04:13
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Syd posted:Threw SRI on, loud as hell even in the cabin surprisingly enough. Wonderfully obnoxious and it does feel a bit better. Seeing as this is my only mod and the gas in this area is 92 or 93 octane, I shouldn't worry about planning on getting an AP at any point should I? I personally wouldn't, since Mazda offers their Mazdaspeed CAI for purchase from the dealer without any flash or anything. These cars run pretty rich stock as is. Leaning it out a bit won't hurt anything from what I can tell.
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Jan 24, 2009 13:31
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Not unless they unrecalled those
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Jan 24, 2009 23:04
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I put on the CP-E Nano, and did the AP reflash to the Stage 1 SR (or whatever it is) and it was quite noticeably slower, even to my passengers. I put the stock intake back on, flashed back to stage 1, and all was well. It says that Stage 1 is NOT for use with a modified intake, but how dangerous is it really? I'd love to put the intake back on, but not if I'm going to LOSE power!
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Jan 26, 2009 04:07
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Which map were you using, specifically? There are revisions that are supposed to make a big difference. Cobb's inlet pipe is available now. 165, a little more than I expected.
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Jan 26, 2009 04:13
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Stage1+SF 91 v100. This is AFTER I downloaded and installed 1.03. It still shows up as v100?
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Jan 26, 2009 14:04
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The only thing I can think to try is to grab the latest version of the appropriate map from http://www.mzdspd.com/ and see if that fixes you up.
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Jan 27, 2009 21:26
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Yeah, I've tried that map. No good. I'll just sell the Nano and hope someone else can use it.
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Jan 27, 2009 22:31
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Before you go sell the Nano you could maybe check at Cobb's website and ask on the forums. I think quite a few people have received one-on-one help and even specifically tailored maps when then standard OTS dealies didn't seem to be working for them.
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Jan 27, 2009 23:05
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I know this is horribly lazy of me but I'm going to do it just to keep this from falling completely off the face of the earth: Here are some logs from weeks ago that don't really have all the right information in them, but have a look if you want. I'm not terribly good at graphing them since I don't know how to make things like RPM with values in the thousands line up with things like AFR without making it look like flat zero in comparison. One Two Three Four They're all from first through fourth I think. I'm not actually sure if the gear it's in makes any real difference. I recently learned that most of the guys do it all in third from a roll so I guess maybe tonight I'll hit 95 and go be reckless in short bursts to get some less-lovely logs. I also heard a rumor that there may be an MS6 downpipe about to drop from Cobb, which would be the motherfucking poo poo, so keep an eye out this month if you own a Mazdaspeed6 and want to move to "Stage 2." I don't have my hopes too high but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
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Feb 2, 2009 20:08
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Frosty- posted:I know this is horribly lazy of me but I'm going to do it just to keep this from falling completely off the face of the earth: Yeah, do a couple pulls in 3rd gear from about 2k to redline. It's much easier to see what's happening with only one gear and the rpms being linear instead of rising and falling. As for the excel stuff, just plot up AFR or knock in one data series and then select the RPM column for the "category X axis labels." RPM will be on the bottom (x axis), with AFR plotted in the graph and the y axis will be centered around whatever you're plotting. Putting multiple things on there will goof up the graph and do what you're saying though. Also, gently caress the manufacturers for aftermarket parts for these cars. Everything is retardly expensive. $1400 turboback? No thank you. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Feb 3, 2009 |
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Feb 3, 2009 00:28
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Has Cobb released AccessTuner Pro for the Mazdas yet? If you get it, it really is a full blown tuning solution that rivels many standalone systems. I have it for my STi. Almost bought a MS3 too. Too bad the dealer wanted nearly $30k for it
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Feb 4, 2009 00:53
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Not yet, but I believe we were next in line after the GTR and as they've basically halted hard-parts development I have to assume it'll be soon, since it's gotta be their primary focus right now as a company.
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Feb 4, 2009 01:03
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Nice, though as nice as it is with real time map editing and such, I still find my self going with RomRaider (Open Source) for doing simple stuff like MAF and Injector scaling because they have those nifty tracers that Cobb ATR doesn't have.
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Feb 4, 2009 01:06
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Battle Cattle fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Feb 6, 2009 |
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Feb 5, 2009 07:59
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mazda curse must have been lifted  
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Feb 12, 2009 21:47
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Whoa, nice bullet dodging there.  I'm guessing a recent storm caused that? Also, are you speaking of all Mazdas being cursed or just yours in particular?
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Feb 13, 2009 00:08
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All Mazdas are cursed. There was a stretch for about 3-4 months that everyones Mazdas were being rear-ended or t-boned or somehow being destroyed. And yeah, that tree was felled just from the wind today. It fell onto a shipping container -- the container was barely dented.
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Feb 13, 2009 01:06
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:The actual shifting doesn't bother me so much. It's going into gear. 2nd gear always grinds just a bit. God drat I'm glad I finally read over the first bit of this thread. My MS3 has just over 7k on it now and this was driving me nuts thinking that it was an actual "problem problem" with my car. I can rest easy now.
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Feb 13, 2009 01:52
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Syd posted:All Mazdas are cursed. There was a stretch for about 3-4 months that everyones Mazdas were being rear-ended or t-boned or somehow being destroyed. I'm gonna quote, but not comment on this out of the fear of jinxing myself. I'm sure you can assume what I mean. 
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Feb 13, 2009 04:18
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I'm thinking of upgrading my Mazda 3 to a Mazdaspeed6 (bigger back seat, more power, AWD is nice). Any known problems or issues with the 2006 model year?
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Feb 17, 2009 02:20
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Anyone want to buy a slightly used Accessport for MS6? I'd rather sell it and just buy a downpipe or something. The lack of support for the 6 is bothering me. I guess if I wanted to mod I should have bought an MS3. So seriously, I'll make a good deal for a goon if you want it. PM me or hit me up at darkan at gmail dot com
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Feb 17, 2009 02:39
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mod sassinator posted:I'm thinking of upgrading my Mazda 3 to a Mazdaspeed6 (bigger back seat, more power, AWD is nice). Any known problems or issues with the 2006 model year? Some 06 cars have had minor issues with the high-pressure fuel pump, VTCS, possibly some other mechanical stuff. Some have a power-loss issue for which there is a reflash that may or may not fix it. Overall, no; the cars are fine. There is very little aftermarket support being that they number something around ten thousand for both years together. cp-e is a pro operation and they have an aggressive stance toward the MS6, and Cobb has provided some items as well. Corksport also offers a lot, and the rest is forgettable. The MS6 is no STI or Evo when it comes to aftermarket. I really like mine a lot, riceboy faggots seem to find the ownership experience more than a little frustrating. So there that is. I recommend it - great car.
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Feb 17, 2009 03:30
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iPhone makes me double-post...GET EM SLUGGER posted:Anyone want to buy a slightly used Accessport for MS6? I'd rather sell it and just buy a downpipe or something. The lack of support for the 6 is bothering me. I guess if I wanted to mod I should have bought an MS3. Bought Cobb's MS3 inlet pipe since it's identical to the inevitable MS6 pipe. I wonder if it'll get stupid-loud now.
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Feb 17, 2009 03:37
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:Anyone want to buy a slightly used Accessport for MS6? I'd rather sell it and just buy a downpipe or something. The lack of support for the 6 is bothering me. I guess if I wanted to mod I should have bought an MS3. Any idea if this'll work with an MS3?
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Feb 17, 2009 05:07
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Frosty- posted:The clutch is really funky and will piss you off until you become immune to it. Yeah I just test drove a speed6 tonight and liked it. I also test drove a GTO and honestly the GTO is a better car for me, more raw power and fun. However the Mazda dealer I was at has had a couple speed6's on their lot for ~6 months now and they aren't going anywhere soon. I'm gonna offer a super hard bargain, take my '05 Mazda3 and I kick in a few grand for the Mazdaspeed6. I get a bigger Mazda with more power and the dealer gets a car that's much easier to sell. It's unfortunate that the speed6 was such a flop--it's not fast enough for the enthusiast crowd and not luxurious for the high end crowd. If they don't bite oh well, but if they do then I get a speed6 for 12-14ish. edit: I thought the clutch was fine on the speed6. I might just be used to Mazda's clutch though.
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Feb 17, 2009 07:18
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:Anyone want to buy a slightly used Accessport for MS6? I'd rather sell it and just buy a downpipe or something. The lack of support for the 6 is bothering me. I guess if I wanted to mod I should have bought an MS3. If I get a speed6 soon I might be interested. What can the access port do with a stock speed6? Can you upload different tunes for more power when you want it? Do you need to get intake, downpipe, etc.? How bad is the lack of support?
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Feb 17, 2009 07:21
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This will not work with an MS3. It does all sorts of things for any car, really. That's why I've debated selling it. Yes, you can reflash the ECU with different maps. There is one for an otherwise stock vehicle, that really makes a difference in power. There are maps for just about every stage of modification. It will also let you monitor live parameters, like knock retard or boost. The newest update even lets you do datalogging. For some reason though, my intake slowed things down. When I added the intake with the stock map, it ran somewhat faster than stock, but not nearly as fast as the stock intake with the Stage 1 map. When I upgraded to the Stage 1+SF map (which is for an otherwise stock vehicle with an aftermarket intake) it was noticeably slower than stock. There are a ton of maps for the MS3, but not so many for the MS6, and they haven't been updated in a while, it's like we're the redheaded stepchild or something. So at this point, I'm REALLY torn. If I sell it, I can afford a downpipe, which supposedly makes a big difference in power. Or maybe I can talk my wife into a downpipe and keep the AcessPort and see how the Stage 2 maps feel. If I do decide to sell it, I'll do it here first. It'll be WAY cheaper than a new one that way.
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Feb 17, 2009 13:58
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