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85 should be fine at your altitude. If you're really paranoid, bump it up one grade. Really though you don't need to spend extra money on higher octane. Don't bother yourself to seek out non-ethanol gas. It's pretty tough nowadays and I imagine it was calibrated for E10 anyway (since it's more or less the standard now).
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2016 13:59 |
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# ¿ May 22, 2024 14:30 |
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Looking for those cars with that low of mileage when I was looking for cars recently was impossible. Easily $15k here.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2016 19:04 |
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mariooncrack posted:
Please buy an ex rental 200. We need more comedy in this forum.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2016 16:53 |
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Dang, low mileage ones do exist. Wonder how good that price is. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Aug 17, 2016 |
# ¿ Aug 17, 2016 13:51 |
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Rhyno posted:The Miata got the spot in the garage this year so I want to throw an engine block heater on the 6. Anyone here done that, is there a brand I should use/avoid? Your car isn't a diesel, and you're not in Canada, so, why?
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2016 21:01 |
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Rhyno posted:Because last year we had several windchills well below zero and if my car was outside it was a huge pain to start it. Meaning you had to crank it for more than 2 seconds? Or you just had to jump it or what? Sounds like weak battery as suggested. Your neighbor doesn't need a block heater, either.
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2016 02:16 |
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Buy a used stock one if you can find it, IMO. It's not going to gain you much otherwise I'd bet and just be louder. Personally, I'm too old for that poo poo.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2017 19:26 |
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I personally wouldn't bother. It'll just rust from the inside out anyway instead.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2017 02:38 |
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Martytoof posted:Jesus christ do modern Mazdas STILL have rust cancer? Modern? Newest MS6 is a 2007. That's still 10 years old. Same era as the first gen 3 in my mind at least.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2017 14:36 |
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I thought that was a problem with the rear shocks? I know mine creaked quite a bit in the cold, way back when. I seem to remember reading something about it being due to the shocks...?
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2017 23:04 |
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Revvik posted:Black cherry, the only color it should have come in. Hit 100k miles this month; it's a 2006. I'll post pics up tomorrow. Revvik posted:I'm nowhere near trying to make money on it considering what it cost me almost five years ago, I'm just delusional about its value. Keep up with this line of thinking and sell it to me for beans. At least it isn't this bad. https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/6083370722.html Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Apr 20, 2017 |
# ¿ Apr 20, 2017 22:34 |
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Yeah, it's usually the extra sidewall that gives you more cushion. Depends on the suspension setup but almost always it's noticeable going to a smaller size. Still, lighter wheels are the best place to reduce rotational mass which will improve acceleration a bit. This you may not notice if you don't drive aggressively but 10 lbs/wheel is a pretty decent weight loss. Have to factor in tire weight as well as they vary pretty widely. If you aren't going much wider on the tire though it's probably minimally different (or less since again, smaller diameter).
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# ¿ May 1, 2017 12:51 |
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I fit 16" OEM Mazda 6 steelies w/snows on my old 08.5 MS3, but I had a slight rub at one of the calipers and did indeed have to file a small area. It was very tight, wouldn't do that again.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 23:41 on May 5, 2017 |
# ¿ May 5, 2017 23:39 |
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wzm posted:Stock, 118k, one owner (prior to me, a month ago), and always dealer maintained. The dealer spent $3k of the last owner's money on a timing chain overhaul back in January. If the trans is still in decent shape without grinds and overall the car is clean, I'd just rebuild it or buy a used shortblock + turbo. Still you aren't in very deep money wise.
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# ¿ May 25, 2017 12:42 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Anything else? Sounds like he's replaced most of the bad stuff. Mine had creaky shocks and the weak motor mount. opengl128 posted:Beware shocker stickers and evil M badges. That poo poo is the worst. People doing "free mods"
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2017 21:48 |
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Revvik posted:https://youtu.be/5dubCchy748 Terribly. Was the blower motor on?
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# ¿ Aug 6, 2017 04:52 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Seems like the Skyactiv-X is going to have spark plugs and be able to switch between normal ignition and HCCI. And a supercharger! Very interesting stuff... I'm curious how often it will use HCCI vs. normal combustion.
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2017 16:44 |
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I have a hard time believing they're going to sell too many of those kits, but who knows.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2017 19:05 |
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Fabulousity posted:A few more details about Skyactiv-X and the refreshed 3 platform that it'll go in for 2019: I had a feeling that Mazda was full of poo poo when they said they were doing HCCI since the big manufacturers haven't been able to do it yet reliably. edit: not to say this isn't cool, it just isn't what was initially reported. I'm surprised they actually are using in cylinder pressure sensors and they will actually last... Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Sep 8, 2017 |
# ¿ Sep 8, 2017 14:23 |
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MetaJew posted:Maybe I misread the articles, but how is Mazda full of poo poo? Am I misunderstanding your reaction? I'm just a EE who doesn't remember thermodynamics. Many reported it's an HCCI (homogeneous charge compression ignition) engine, which it's really not since the spark is still starting combustion. I knew it was going to have spark plugs but initially reports said that it would use those for the 10% operating modes they couldn't use HCCI. That's why they're calling it SPCCI instead of HCCI. Either way, it's good for the industry pushing something out like this. I just hope it actually works.
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# ¿ Sep 9, 2017 13:40 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ace tends to have a much better selection than HD / Lowes, though. This is true in Michigan and Ohio too. I always go there for metric bolts, they have way better poo poo than the big stores locally, even if my Ace store is tiny. They even have stainless and allen head metric stuff which is nice.
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# ¿ Sep 13, 2017 15:00 |
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Better question is why you're putting it in there in the first place? Afraid of the Mazda curse?
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# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 18:36 |
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How are the 1st gen 6 wagons? I know they have the dumpy v6 (by today's standards), but anything else good or bad I should know?
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2017 13:54 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:As a person who lives in a place that gets ice, I really want to punch whoever keeps pushing Tesla-style door handles for concept cars. eh, it's a concept. It's never going to make it to production like that, they just want it to look nice and not have poo poo like that that breaks up the design. Just look at those sideview "mirrors."
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2017 20:06 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Then they sell 800 and kill it, everyone bitches. The cycle repeats. This for every performance/hatchback/wagon/even slightly niche vehicle, ever. "I'd totally buy that brown diesel manual wagon. Used."
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# ¿ Dec 6, 2017 16:38 |
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So the A/C compressor seized and that's why it's not starting? Sounds like they're lumping in every maintenance thing they can on that bill. And most of it is wildly overpriced. Guessing this is a Mazda dealer and not an independent shop.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2017 19:24 |
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MetaJew posted:As for the yellow goop. Apparently most or motor mounts are filled with some kind of grease or oil. Ah yes, liquid filled engine mounts. I bucket that in with "great idea but usually poor execution." Brings back bad memories of my gen 1 CTS-V. It was the only way to get a Cadillac-esque ride/NVH with a big honkin' V8. Too bad they were right by the headers, so the rubber failed in short order and leaked that poo poo everywhere.
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# ¿ Dec 24, 2017 00:43 |
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Previa_fun posted:My 2011 Mazda3 seems to have trouble starting when the engine has been run for short periods of time and not warmed up enough. Personally I wouldn't worry unless it doesn't start. The only things that I can think of that would cause that would be a drop in fuel pressure in the lines (building it back up while cranking) or a weak battery. But does it do it on a true cold start? If not, it's probably neither of those and maybe they just didn't do a great job on the "slightly warm but still in open loop" start up calibrations...? MetaJew posted:Unfortunately, this didn't fix the clunk that I hear, so I think there's something loose or failing in the rear suspension, possibly the rear driver side. Not sure what year your car is but I remember the gen 1 MS3's had issues with the rear sway bar links loosening. I would just jack up the rear and have a look and torque the shocks/struts/links/everything-else-you-can-get-a-wrench-on to make sure they're snug. One failed mounts will put more load on the rest, so it's possible it could have accelerated wear on the others. Have somebody rev your car in neutral (not Drive, don't get your rear end ran over) while you look in the engine bay and see how much the engine moves. Failing that, I would just grab the engine and give it a shake and see if the movement is excessive. Usually you'll be able to feel the powertrain rocking until it hits a hard stop (bottom out the mount or bushing) or you'll be able to see a crazy amount of vibration when it's revved up and torques the engine.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2017 19:53 |
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eddiewalker posted:My 2014 ‘3 just hit 60k miles and the tires are a little cupped. I’m looking at knocking out all the maintenance I can in one swoop. Tires and shocks/struts all around and alignment for sure. Coolant is probably fine since it likely has a long life coolant factory fill. I'd check the gearbox oil and see what the manual says, but it won't hurt to do. Don't do a universal fuel filter. Which engine do you have? The 2.0 has a filter that comes up on Rock Auto (shop for parts prices there vs. locally, it's usually WAY cheaper). I don't see one for the 2.5 but surely you can order it through Mazda if you can't get it elsewhere. Before buying a bunch of stuff I would do a general inspection of the suspension and replace as necessary. Check for sway bar links and ball joints for play and bushing wear. 60k miles doesn't sound like you'll find much but who knows since we don't know about your driving conditions.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2017 19:08 |
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Betting on a bubble in the sidewall or a bent wheel.
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2018 17:30 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm sick of driving a lowered car. Currently on Cobb springs, which are only a 1" drop and still pretty hard to live with on the cratered streets of Oakland. Any rec's for springs close to stock ride height on a Speed3? Shocks are Corksport adjustables. Just get some OEM take offs from a forum?
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# ¿ Jan 23, 2018 14:06 |
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If you changed shocks and all that, then it's probably a bushing somewhere. Hard to tell without having a look, though.
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2018 15:10 |
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Jack up the car and take a pry bar to everything and see where the movement is. Did you replace shock mounts when you did them? Sway bar bushings shouldn't clunk, but they may be noisy if not greased. More of a squeak than anything. End links also should not make any noise.
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2018 19:13 |
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MetaJew posted:I haven't done my shocks yet. Doesn't sound good. Were the moog links different than the factory ones? (aka the studs on them are shorter?) If they're bolted on the ends, just buy longer bolts.
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2018 13:04 |
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It won't hurt anything, it's designed to be fed through the turbo and burned in the engine. It can gum up the valves on DI engines but that's about the only downside.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2018 15:50 |
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I'd call the local dealer's parts department and ask them for the part number. If it's cheap enough, buy it there. Otherwise google whatever they tell you.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2018 14:54 |
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Aexo posted:Okay, but what do I call it? If you describe it as you have above, the parts guy will find it if he knows what he's doing.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2018 16:52 |
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Haha, I was hearing Ron Howard say that in my head before you confirmed it.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2018 14:03 |
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I remember mine did that, only when at a really fast speed. I didn't own it long enough to bother fixing it though.
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2018 14:16 |
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# ¿ May 22, 2024 14:30 |
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Wibla posted:Iirc you can adjust it? Should be a procedure for it somewhere. Probably just turning the rod in/out for the master cylinder.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2018 12:33 |