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trouser chili posted:Hey guys do I get to play? Well, you've certainly had your share of the Mazda Curse. Also, a 5 with a turbo would be pretty loving AI. How much larger is the MZR than the BP? I'm not in the MZR club yet either...but the Mazdaspeed3 is on the short list of possible replacements for the Volvo. I've been trying to read up on them for some time but gently caress, every forum I find dedicated to them is just terrible. Are there any common failure points / things to look out for beyond the shifter feel?
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Dec 24, 2008 16:44
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Syd posted:Some of the earlier ones had bum engine mounts that dropped the engine but it was a big recall for all of that afaik. The trannies might be dogged to poo poo, since half the people on the forum brag about flat shifting constantly. Good to know, time to look for one owned by some sedate old man or something  Syd posted:The engine has pretty severe fuel dilution issues as well but it seems all direct injected engines, especially side injections, suffer from it. Meaning oil has to be changed often, every 3k isn't a bad idea it seems. Every 3k, even with synthetics? That would be a bit annoying, I put enough miles on the daily driver (currently the Miata) that even on 6k intervals (ran a used oil analysis, turns out my 5k intervals were conservative) I'm doing it every few months.
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Dec 24, 2008 21:52
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frozenphil posted:BITOG may know about oil, but I value real world testing over lab stuff. I know I, as well as a few thousand other people, picked up 2mph and 2 tenths in the quarter as well as gaining 2mpg with a K&N in my Mustang GT. Just the filter, or the whole intake? I know on the LT1 F-body, the filter alone in the stock airbox was worthless, but the whole FIPK was worth its weight in gold.
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Dec 30, 2008 20:25
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Another oil question, especially for the turbo folk: What grade and brand of oil are you running? I ran some numbers and realized that I'm a lot closer to owning a MS3 than I thought at first
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Jan 5, 2009 23:34
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I like it, but I hope more that it drives down the prices of used MS3s Speaking of which, the used MS3 market reminds me a lot of the used Corvette market. Nobody wants to admit that their cars have gone down in value, so everyone asks ridiculous prices but the only guys actually selling are the ones who drop down to the $15k range...one of which I missed out on because I wasn't quite fast enough. Cheapest MS3 for sale "locally"? $18.5k on CL, the rest are right at $20k.
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Mar 2, 2009 14:25
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Just test-drove an '08 MS3. Holy poo poo that thing pulls in third  Given how much of a buyer's market it is, I think I can snag one for $15k, and then it's finally good riddance to the Volvo.
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Mar 11, 2009 03:51
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Those look sharp as hell. How much do the wheels cost? If the tire selection is that much better and cheaper, that's an easy mod to justify. Edit to avoid doubleposting: How are the aftermarket intakes that are available? I'm looking at a MS3 locally that already has a CPE cold air intake on it - if I go for the car should I leave it or find stock parts? IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 00:32
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Frosty- posted:That intake and wipes its rear end with the stock piece. Good to know. Shame the car was pretty ragged (illegal tint, turbotimer that wasn't even mounted up, aftermarket gauges put in crooked, some gnarly rear end scratches, tires that aren't even all the same size, new turbo at 15k miles ago "because someone revved it at a car wash", and all this for $2300 over KBB) or I'd be part of the cool kids
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Apr 9, 2009 05:19
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Whatever it was, it seemed to be held down by loving drywall screws. There's another one semi-locally that I figure is probably still for sale, since it's out of the way...it's on the high end of what I want to spend but if it really is as sharp as he says it is, I'll be buying it instead.
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Apr 9, 2009 05:32
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Well, I'm now invoking the wrath of the Mazda curse gods - picked up an '07 MS3 with 24k on the clock tonight, in red. God this thing is a riot 
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Apr 12, 2009 09:06
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Frosty- posted:Yay! Absolutely, as far as I can tell the only mod on it is the Mazdaspeed cold air intake...and now that I think about it, out of all the cars I looked at I don't think a single one had the factory airbox still on it. I thought the MS3 was supposed to be the sleeper of the hot hatch segment? I'm pretty sure that over the course of driving it home last night two different people tried to get me to race them.
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Apr 12, 2009 15:47
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And no drywall screws in sight, I presume.
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Sublime Process posted:Come live in my town - I've had my car around 7-8 months and no one's tried to race me. Hah, I wish. I might actually be swapping newer wheels on it sooner than later - my wife has informed me that she wants gunmetal wheels on the car, and since I wouldn't mind downsizing to 17's, looks like I'll be in the market for new wheels soon.
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Apr 12, 2009 16:50
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Ether Frenzy posted:Oh noes, is this the end for the Volvo 240 beater days? It is, it's up on CL and I need to get a thing of shoe polish to write in the windows with. I'll post some up eventually but I need to take some that are worth a drat. Right now all I have is a cameraphone shot and it's not like people here haven't seen a blurry red stock MS3 before, ha.
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Apr 13, 2009 00:11
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Speaking of poo poo in other forums about these cars...what the hell is the deal with grounding the throttle body? Do people really think it's insufficiently electrically grounded or something?
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Apr 19, 2009 05:28
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But, isn't the actuator grounded through its connection to the harness? I mean, GM uses lots of drive-by-wire setups and a lot of the cars I can think of have plastic intake manifolds, with no specific ground wire for the throttle body. I mean at least the coolant bypass I understand the point of and 'get', even if it is of limited benefit at best.
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Apr 19, 2009 05:54
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Bumping because my MS3 has an odd problem which it will see the dealer for on Tuesday - the door ajar light will randomly flicker at varying rates even when all doors are closed. Oddly it does not cause the dome light to flicker in the slightest. Sometimes the door ajar light will light up solid for a few minutes at a time, but even then if I open a door, the dome light will come on as normal and go out after I shut the door - while the indicator on the panel is still lit. It will flicker mostly over bumps so it's clearly a loose connection somewhere. The only other thing it affects is the power locks / alarm. If it thinks a door is open, it won't let me lock with the remote. If I lock the doors with the remote (alarm armed) and the connection decides to report a false door open even with the car shut off, the alarm goes off.
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Jun 14, 2009 06:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Bumping because my MS3 has an odd problem Self replying for an update. Initial diagnosis pointed at the hatch latch, which was backordered. A week later, they replaced it, tested it, and determined that wasn't it; next step was replacing the BCM (or some related part, I'm not 100% clear), which had to be overnighted. This also failed. Somewhere between taking it home the second time and dropping it off at the dealer again today, it also lost the ability to open the hatch - temporarily. They did more testing and determined there's a short somewhere in the rear wiring harness, which will be two days out to get the parts in, so I'm in a Mazda5 loaner. For what it's worth, though it is short a turbo, the 5 is a fantastic little people hauler.
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Jun 30, 2009 06:53
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Lilbeefer posted:Bit the bullet on an 07 MPS with 22000 km (13500 mi) I'm not sweating it personally; the '10 isn't any faster and doesn't add all that much (anything?) in the way of must-have gadgetry, and I much prefer the styling of the older model.
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Jul 3, 2009 12:13
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So they're designing a better PCV system? Sweet, I wonder if they'll be doing it as a recall or if we'll have to foot the bill. I'd rather get it put on before the turbo smokes.
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Jul 11, 2009 06:09
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Anyone else got the Mazdaspeed CAI with the AEM Dryflow filter? I washed mine for the first time today and holy crap it must have taken six hours to dry in the AZ heat. I couldn't quite get it bone dry until I threw it in the Miata which was baking in the sun. I think next time I might buy another filter to swap on instead of waiting forever. Also I discovered that whoever put the CAI on used at least one hose clamp that was a bit too short - it failed while I was wiggling on the whole mess. They also never updated it with the AEM air straightener for the MAF. I don't have any problems but I figure if Mazda pulled the CAI and AEM updated it, I should go ahead and spend $15 to update it.
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Jul 26, 2009 02:00
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Frosty- posted:I've got the standard one that came with my Cobb SF intake, which I guess is an oiled filter. It's about time to clean and re-oil it or whatever has to be done and the prospect is terrifying me. I don't want to sit around fiddling with a plastic cone all day. A lot of guys switched to the AEM dryflow that you've got, but the maintenance on that doesn't seem less boring. Re-oiling filters really isn't bad, just be sparing about it. I've had two different K&N's on my truck (okay one was when it still had a carb, no MAF to foul) and I've never fouled the MAF on my LS1. Basically just enough oil to get some even coloring on the filter material. quote:I would. It seems like every intake has the straighteners now. Yeah, and it will only be a few minutes of work. I should probably start doing some datalogging with my ElmScan soon, just to get some numbers to compare it to.
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Jul 26, 2009 03:47
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Huh, looks like a few other new tires have come out in the stock size. I'm kinda tempted by the Yokohama Advan Neova AD08. Looks like most of these tires are too new to have much in the way of a review yet, though. Edit: If you go to 225/40-18, the selection gets even better. The Bridgestone RE-11 is tempting too, and in that size, there's also the super-sticky Falken RT-615 and the Hankook RS2 (which I have on the Miata, great tires if a bit noisy) IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jul 26, 2009 |
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Jul 26, 2009 16:53
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VERTiG0 posted:Curious - anybody with an '07 MS3 have any rust anywhere? Rocker panels or rear wheelwells? I haven't seen any when under the car for an oil change, but then again I'm in AZ. Nothing rusts. Drove mine from Phoenix to LA to San Diego and back this weekend, goddamn this car makes the miles go by nicely. Came back to a box full of oil filters and a free filter wrench from Rosenthal Mazda, I figure for less than $80 shipped it's the cheapest way to get good filters (even the Fram poo poo costs $10/filter locally!) and I get a filter wrench meant for the car. Also had to idle mine for quite a while at a few points, namely the goddamn McDonalds in Blythe. At least I know the turbo seals are fine!
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Aug 3, 2009 18:27
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If you read the various Mazda forums too much, they make it sound like the turbos are all already dead, it's just a matter of time. It manifests itself as a smoking exhaust while idling for prolonged periods, typically 10-30 minutes. Mazda put out a TSB about it, which is earlier in the thread. Basically, the current school of thought is that the PCV system does not sufficiently remove pressure from the crankcase at idle, which makes it more difficult for oil to drain from the turbocharger. Eventually the oil finds another way out of the turbocharger - by way of the shaft seals and into the exhaust where it's burned. According to the TSB, this will eventually be remedied by an updated PCV system which should let the oil drain from the turbo properly.
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Aug 4, 2009 06:20
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The fact that they're so wound up in drama that the two major ones both ban links to each other is just loving hilarious. I know single-make forums are the worst but the MS3 folks take the cake, even over the C6 guys who change their clutch hydraulic fluid more often than they change their engine oil It's a fantastic car. I've already put 8000 miles on mine and I've loved every one of them.
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Aug 4, 2009 07:05
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Goddamnit. The only road trip I've been able to take in mine so far has been to LA/SD and back; in other words, a lot of Interstate 10. I need to get on a road trip where I can hit the curves for more than a few miles at a time.
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Aug 7, 2009 18:15
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Hatebreed posted:Whelp, apparently the new MS3 reviews are leaking out, seems they can just be summed up with one image. What? That Autoblog Article posted:Needless to say, we're smitten all over again. What the 2010 Mazdaspeed3 lacks in on-track exhilaration, it makes up for on the open road. And since that's where most of us spend our time, it's tuned to suit. If you're a dedicated track-addict, your circuit-ready ride awaits you on the weekends. For the days in between, the Mazdaspeed3 fends off the cravings. I still can't get on board with the styling for the '10 MS3 but glad to hear the car itself is still just as good or better.
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Aug 21, 2009 18:24
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Lilbeefer posted:Is it normal to notice a small amount of black smoke on hard acceleration? Is it just the car richening up the fuel supply, or is this a sign of a retiring turbo? Black smoke is unburnt fuel. Since these things basically pour in gas at WOT, I wouldn't be surprised to see some black smoke now and again.
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Aug 23, 2009 01:55
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Congrats, now post some pics since I don't think I've seen any of the 2010 that weren't magazine / press shots!
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Sep 4, 2009 16:21
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It actually looks deeper, that parcel shelf looks longer than the older model. Looks nice, and I'm sure the front end will grow on me eventually. Congrats on joining the torque-steer club!
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Sep 6, 2009 00:10
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Can any of you guys with '07-'09 MS3s do me a huge favor and tell me what the label on the lower left of your windshield is? Mine has developed bubbles (with the bumper-to-bumper warranty expiring in ~500mi) and if mine is the OEM glass then I can get the dealer to replace it. So far the dealer has claimed that all of their cars on the lot have the Mazda logo on the windshield, but mine doesn't...but it's still SEKURIT, which is the brand on every other window on the car as well. Mine says: SEKURIT E6 43R-00015 LAMILEX A002343 AS1 (or ASI?) LP CENTRAL DOT44
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Sep 12, 2009 22:05
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Got into the dealer today - as it turns out, it is the original glass, but the PO actually had tint. Conveniently enough they have a tint guy who works out of the dealership, so for $50 they pulled the failing window tint off of the windshield and detailed the car.
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Sep 19, 2009 23:29
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It probably could, I've only ever had one carseat in mine. You could always just find a regular 3 to test it with, interior is the same other than seat covering.
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Oct 12, 2009 19:16
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Kynetx posted:I know I've never found the cornering limit. It's never oversteered on me or lost traction in the rear. Maybe I'm just a pussy. I'm in the same boat, and I still have RE050As on the car. The drat thing has so much power that it's easy to get to retarded-illegal speeds before you actually find the limits of the rest of the car. Most I've managed to make it do is get hairy with the torque steer under hard acceleration while turning, but that doesn't take much  I can't wait to finish wearing off the Bridgestones so I can put on the Hankook RS2s and go hit some twisties.
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Oct 15, 2009 14:45
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I thought 16's caused clearance problems on the front brakes? I'm all for avoiding the tax on the 18" tires but I've honestly grown rather used to how the wheels look. There are some OEM Mazda 17" alloys I could live with, though...NC wheels are compatible, right?
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Oct 25, 2009 00:34
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On another note, it sounds like one set of pads has hit the squealers - probably my fronts. I just passed 38k, what kind of mileage are you guys getting out of your brakes, and what options are there for pads? I don't want to give up any of the stock performance but honestly if I could find something that dusts less than OEM without giving up braking performance, I'll be all over it. Edit: I'm seeing a lot of good reviews on the Hawk Ceramics. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 25, 2009 |
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Oct 25, 2009 07:35
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I haven't run the numbers in a while but I've been averaging around 24MPG or so - but this is with a commute that is literally 95% freeway, most of which is cruising at speed instead of bumper-to-bumper. It's also a long commute so I don't have many of those <5 minute drives that slaughter gas mileage.
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Oct 25, 2009 17:15
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FortifiedTumor posted:The lock remote doesn't lock when the engine is running. Manually locking the doors with the door open and the engine running causes it to automatically unlock. Is there some trick to this? All I've come up with is roll down a window... which defeats the purpose of both securing the vehicle and warming it up. Can you lock it with a second key after you get out and close the door? Re cracking swaybar - I doubt that's actually any sign of abuse, probably just a random failure. Be glad it happened before you hit 60k.
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Nov 24, 2009 07:41
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Figure I might as well post what Blackstone came back with on my used oil analysis. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, ran it for just under 4500 miles, 07 MS3.Blackstone posted:No problems showed up in the initial sample from the 2.3L engine in your Mazda. All wear read or below average for this type of engine, which is a good indication of normal wearing parts. Universal averages show typical wear levels after about ~5,000 miles oil use. The viscosity was light for a 5W/30, though this wasn't due to any significant fuel dilution, so it's not really a concern, especially since wear looks fine. No coolant was found. The TBN read 3.7, showing lots of active additive left. A reading of 1.0 or lower is too low. Try going to 7,000 miles next time. Fuel dilution was listed as less than 0.5%. Happy with the oil and the Mazda OEM filters!
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Nov 25, 2009 21:07
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Kynetx posted:That's good to see. I was figuring that the super-rich cold-start routine the computer uses to heat the engine up as fast as possible would result in some fuel washing past the rings, glad this isn't the case. Well, to be fair my driving habits may have something to do with it - the vast majority of my driving is my 25-mile one-way commute. Frosty- posted:If I hand the guys at the dealership one of these test kits do you think they'd look at me funny? I'm trying to think of a way I could grab a few ounces of oil without draining it all and changing it myself. I'm really lazy and, ergh, I don't wanna. If your dealership isn't staffed by assholes, I don't see why they would have an issue with it. Just make sure you have them get some oil from the middle of the drain - you don't want either the first stuff out of the pan, or the last. Also, at 4500 miles my oil was looking damned black as well. On a purely visual basis I would have figured it to be far worse than it actually was. I will probably need to add a little makeup oil to make a 7000 mile interval, I was about half a quart low over the course of 4500 miles. Speaking of dealers, I need to call mine again. Apparently Hertz thinks they didn't get paid for the Mazda5 rental I had in June while the MS3 was getting the rear wiring harness fixed under warranty, and they billed my card for it. Lame.
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Nov 25, 2009 22:59
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