Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Isn't the only difference the inclusion of the airflow straightener in the new one? I added it to my old one (came on my car) when I found out about the issues, as a preventative measure.

Saturday, I did the front brakes. loving car fought me every step of the way, it took five hours to do since I spent so long hammering the old rotors off and trying to break the caliper bracket bolts loose. Broke a cheapie 17mm socket, but found a SnapOn trim removal tool that was left in the car apparently, so I still ended up ahead on tools. Went with generic blank rotors (Centric?) and Hawk HPS pads. There is a noticeable decrease in initial bite with the HPS pads compared to OEM, but once you adjust to it you don't notice. Hopefully the claims about significantly less dust than OEM are true.

Also, had it aligned today, and finally got the Hankook RS2s from TireRack's closeout installed. So far so good, though I haven't had an opportunity to flog it much. According to the butt dyno, the RE050As (which were wearing hard on the inside, and were near bald there) were losing traction up most of the onramps here in first and sometimes second gear at WOT...I haven't made the RS2s so much as hiccup yet.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Is it actually a Mazda OEM mirror, or was it an aftermarket mirror installed by a dealer? If the manual has no mention of it I'd lean towards the latter.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Well, that was annoying.

Went to the pharmacy on my way to run some errands, less than a mile to get there. Hop in after I finish shopping, fire up the car, and try to back out of the space, and I realize after a few failed attempts that the car isn't giving me any response on the throttle unless I mash it, and has a CEL set. I limp it back home (won't go over about 3000RPM) and just plugged in a computer to find out it's set P2119 - apparently the throttle body doesn't know what the gently caress. I just fired it up again and the car is responding / running normally.

Anyone know if this is covered under the powertrain warranty?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That kinda bums me out, a G8 / GTO / some hypothetical future GM boat with a big loving V8 is the kind of car I could see replacing the MS3 with in a decade when I finally get bored with it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, if pumping the clutch helps, either your master or slave is failing (or off chance, you have a leak in the line between the two).

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





CharlesM posted:

I think the clutch thing was kinda a fluke. The amount of effort required seems to be a bit random. I stopped by the dealer and they want to change the fluid to Redline. The fluid might not have been changed at 30,000miles like on the scheduled maintenance. I'll go ahead and do that as a first step when I bring it in tomorrow.

Self-resolving issue or not, the clutch system is much like your braking system - any leak or any failure to generate pressure is an issue that indicates something, somewhere in the system, is failing. A full fluid swap will probably help but really shouldn't be required.

Get Em Slugger: I actually just saw a black MS6 going the other direction while out at lunch. Go figure.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Kynetx posted:

Totally unrelated: Is anyone with an MS3 having trouble with windshield cracks? I have two. I swear it's like it was made from spun sugar or something. I've NEVER had a windshield crack in 19 years of driving.
Christ, I'm old.

I haven't had any issues with mine. The wife says there's a chip on the right side somewhere but I haven't seen it since I never ride shotgun.

That said, in AZ windshields are practically a wear item. Zero deductible glass coverage = no worries.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





CombatWombat posted:

I'm having a somewhat similar issue to CharlesM, granted it's relatively infrequent: my MS6 will not let me shift fully into first; it'll go halfway and feel stuck. If I let it go back to neutral and release/re-press the clutch it usually fixes it.

My MS6 is not under factory warranty, but I do have the extended warranty. Would something like that be covered?

Note: I don't abuse my car. I don't do hard launches like ever, and aside from the occasional lovely shift at high revs I don't really do anything bad to the car. So I hope I didn't cause this... :(

I've never driven a stick long-term that didn't do this with first and/or reverse. My MS3 does it less than my Miata, actually. The T-56 in a fourthgen Camaro can be pretty fickle about it too.

Simply put, everything has to be lined up to get a gear - and if nothing is moving and everything is sitting in just the wrong position, it can't line itself up just on the movement of the shifter alone.

I do want to know what you guys are using for transmission oil, I should probably change mine on the next oil change (nearing 46k).

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I am in AZ but we do get temperatures in the 40-degree range in the mornings for a few months of the year here, especially out on the outskirts of town where I'm at.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





IOwnCalculus posted:

Well, that was annoying.

Went to the pharmacy on my way to run some errands, less than a mile to get there. Hop in after I finish shopping, fire up the car, and try to back out of the space, and I realize after a few failed attempts that the car isn't giving me any response on the throttle unless I mash it, and has a CEL set. I limp it back home (won't go over about 3000RPM) and just plugged in a computer to find out it's set P2119 - apparently the throttle body doesn't know what the gently caress. I just fired it up again and the car is responding / running normally.

Anyone know if this is covered under the powertrain warranty?

Quoting myself for two reasons:

1) It did it again. I drove it from home to the gas station on the same corner as the pharmacy, so again, roughly half a mile drive while cold. After filling up, I started it up and the same exact behavior. I haven't scanned it yet but I'm sure it's another P2119.

2) Nope, it's not covered - according to this it looks like the throttle body is not "powertrain". Weak.

So, it looks like I'm just going to have to avoid short trips until this weekend when I change the oil - I'll pick up a bottle of throttle body cleaner and go to town and see if that helps.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Wrong color but good choice all the same. Congrats!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





mattfl posted:

Black Mica is awesome, what is the correct color? :)

True Red, the one I've got, duh :v:

Changed the oil in mine yesterday and sending a sample to Blackstone to see if 7k intervals really are safe for me.

I also noticed a very strange thing. The Mazda emblem on the top of my intercooler cover is all warped (half of it has peeled up) and is losing its chrome. Anyone know where I can buy another?

Edit: I also outdragged an RX8 on the freeway onramp a little while ago. Suck on that, RADL! :toot:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Probably 225/40R18? I have that size on the Hankook Ventus RS2 (discontinued but the RS3 is available, :gay: flames and all) and absolutely love the tires.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Like they should have been the factory size.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Kynetx posted:

"Building"? Why the gently caress did I say "building"? Must be the meth.

That, and I sure as hell can see the paint on the hood and fenders from my driver's seat.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





God loving damnit. Someone tried to siphon gas from my MS3 today while I was at work and bent the poo poo out of that little flap just inside of the filler neck.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I thought these things were supposed to piss fuel into the oil like nobody's business? Maybe I just drive mine right because I just got my Blackstone results back for my 7300 mile interval (added half a quart at about 5000 miles) and the wear numbers are almost identical to my 4400 mile interval. TBN is still at 3.2, and anything over 1.0 is good. Fuel percentage is still under 0.5%.

For anyone interested, I'm running Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, and Mazda OEM filters, and I drive the thing about 50 miles round trip to work daily. I flog the hell out of it when I get the chance, but a lot of those miles are just steady state cruise at 74 MPH.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The way I read it on the various Mazda forums, they did it no matter how you drive it...clearly that's just not the case.

I'll stick with 7500 mile intervals, since that's the longest factory recommendation, until the powertrain warranty is up, which is only another two changes anyway. Then I'll try for 9k.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Hm, I haven't heard it at all on mine and I'm well within the VIN range on the MS3. Of course, I bought mine used, and I never have had a chance to go down to the dealer and get a printed record of TSBs taken care of on my car already.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The clutch on the MS3 is fickle. It's easy to let it out too quickly and stall it (my first test drive of a low-mileage '08 started with a few restarts), and at the same time if you're too slow with it trying to be smooth, it's easy to burn the clutch a bit when the revs start climbing.

Also, it will try to kill you and torque-steer you into every tree you see. This is part of the fun. :)

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I went from a Miata as a daily driver to the MS3. Not only do I not miss sunroofs (I'd rather have the headroom), I don't even miss the ragtop.

Of course, I still have the Miata so if I ever really do crave it, I can...but in that car it's mostly to get the headroom I'd never have with the roof up.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I know the torque limit is there in first and second...and yet I can't say I have any problem with it, or have really even noticed it. The gears are so short that if you did have full power, you'd just be smoking the tires clean off the wheels.

I think the 2010s are a bit less torque-steer-into-a-tree prone than the '07-'09s are.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That's pretty much how I feel about mine. It came with the Mazdaspeed CAI and the only changes I can see myself making would be maybe working on the shifter a bit, and some form of oil catch system for the PCV once I hit 60k miles.

For the record - I just hit one year in the MS3 last week, and I've put almost 26k miles on it. A lot of that is my 25-mile one-way commute, but it helps that I still really enjoy the car.

The tramlining is largely affected by alignment and tires, by the way. The 225/40R18 Hankook RS2s I have on mine want to hunt around a bit worse than the factory 215/45R18 BFG RE050As did, but at least for me it's not bad enough to worry about on all but the worst roads.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I think my MS3 hates being a Mazda. The intercooler badge broke a while ago, which I can live with since it's underhood and the only time I see it is when I'm changing the oil.

But now the goddamn Mazdaspeed logo on the hatch is peeling up :psyduck: I'm debating either getting some new 3M adhesive from Vatozone, or buying a new badge from Mazda (does it come with adhesive?) and making the old one into a desk ornament of some sort.

Also, if #forzagoons on synirc is to be believed, SynMoo's one of us now.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Kynetx: Yep, used. That's certainly a possibility. I suppose the other option would be to take off the 3 and Mazda badges too, but I kinda like them.

Wait, the 2010 doesn't have the HIDs the '07-'09s did? What the hell, Mazda?

The HIDs are, admittedly, one of my favorite things on the car. Hell, my mom rode with me once and decided whatever she buys next, is getting them.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That is easily up there with the '04-'05 Mazdaspeed Miata not even having the option for cruise control.

Open letter to Mazda: People like your cars, but sometimes they want to give you more money for more options! You should let them do this! It is a good thing!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





air- posted:

Funny enough, when I was buying my car (2008 GT) a couple years ago, the lady talking to me about the car's options straight up had me avoid Mazda's iPod integration accessory. She suggested me to go get an aftermarket one since she didn't want to waste my time knowing I'd be coming back to return it. And as luck would have it, the iPod integration kit from Audiolink I was using in my '03 Protege worked just fine in this car :)

How do you like it / how hard was it to set up? The more I think about it, while I like the aux-in jack, I would love it if I could manage an iPod from the steering wheel controls.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





air- posted:

Eyeball it and see. Typically I'd say roughly every 20k miles.

Yeah, I think the recommended interval is 20k. I did mine at 30k because I had no records of it being cleaned before, and I'm going to do it roughly every 20k from here on out, basically whenever an oil change lines up close to it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





FortifiedTumor posted:

Has anyone sold/traded in a newer MS3? I'm thinking about getting a 370Z and was offered 15k for trade in value. 2009 GT w/ 14000 miles.

It seems low, KBB and NADA agree.

You're definitely low, if nothing else you could easily sell it for $18-20k private party; I paid $18k for my '07 GT with 24000 miles last year.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





air- posted:

edit: and on that note..
ronaldrape, sounds like you have some great stuff planned down the line. But I'd advise you to upgrade your fuel pump and turbo inlet, maybe even TMIC/FMIC or a full set of mounts before you even think about a downpipe. Just trying to help you do this safely as it's a major mod that should be made after lots of research. The rear motor mount should be your next purchase, followed by supporting mods for the dp.

Since you seem rather knowledgeable (and unlike most of the Mazda forum posters, literate) - my '07 has just the Mazdaspeed CAI on it (I went ahead and spent a couple bucks on the AEM straightener to go in it). Since I'm nearing the 60k mark (will probably cross that in about 2-3 months) I have fewer reservations with modifying the car.

Right now I'm thinking of throwing in a catch can in the PCV to help get the oil vapors out of the intake stream (seeing as DI engines can't clean the intake valves). Any opinions on which methods work the best to do this?

Also, as someone who is admittedly rather satisfied with the MS3's power level but at the same time wouldn't mind a little more if it's cheap and safe to the engine...are there any cat-backs that actually add any power without going crazy loud, or is it not worth the time and expense? I'm not looking to ever go to a bigger turbo or anything on that scale.

Finally...I'm starting to get annoyed with the condition of my car's engine/transmission mounts (I don't think they've failed but they definitely aren't all that firm). Any recommendations on what the best bang-for-the-buck ones are out there? Maybe sticking on the soft side, I do drive the drat thing 50 miles a day.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





trouser chili posted:

Well, since I have an automatic transmission, I wouldn't see compressor surge happening as much, correct?

Sure, as long as you plan on barreling into every turn at WOT :v:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





trouser chili posted:

What else would I do?

:golfclap:

What about sourcing some of the hardware from MS3/MS6 guys who decide the stock K04 isn't cutting it anymore? Seems like you could maybe get the exhaust manifold and the turbocharger, and the intercooler would need to be an aftermarket front-mount anyway based on what C&D found when trying to make the MS5.

I'm honestly kind of amazed how much grief they had integrating the wiring of the two cars together.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





How well does the Hypertech tune play with goat-piss gas (i.e. Arizona's 91 octane E10 poo poo)?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I used Rosenthal Mazda to buy a shitload of OEM oil filters for my MS3, it was reasonably cheap and they threw in the correct filter wrench that makes it super easy too.

In other news, the OEM battery on my MS3 conked out tonight. No, it couldn't have died any other time during this long and lazy weekend, it picked tonight.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If it's been sitting on the lot for a year, expect the dealer to not give a poo poo about moving it. That's what I encountered when in summer of '06, I was talking to the fuckheads at Earnhardt Mazda in Chandler about buying one of the nine '04/'05 Mazdaspeed Miatas they had on the lot.

I paid $18k out the door in April of last year for my '07 GT with 24k on it, from a dealer.

I would run away from that one - a turbo timer is indeed useless on one of these cars. Just make sure you didn't stomp on it and then shut it off, just spend a little time at idle. The bigger issue with these turbos by far is the seals anyway, which can be resolved by any number of fixes before they do start smoking.

I think $15k might be stretching it for one in good condition, but you never know.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Looking online locally, I think the only way you'll get a GT at or under $15k is going to be if you come across a dealer that has one and doesn't realize it's a GT. Private sellers should almost certainly know the difference and it looks like the nearly-$2k difference I was seeing a year ago is still there today.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Bovine Delight posted:

Finally got this in. Vibrations are pretty intense, but you can slam it 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd and never miss a shift. Highly recommended.

ps does anyone still post in this thread? :ohdear:

Not really because we're all too busy driving :v: That mount sounds really nice though. How much did it set you back? I want to do that and an oil catch can since apparently Mazda will never actually finish the revised PCV system.

I just rolled over 60k on mine on Sunday. I've got some pricey-rear end sparkplugs, some pricey-rear end Ford synthetic transmission fluid, some Pennzoil Platinum and a Mazda oil filter, an AEM cleaning kit, and some two-part epoxy to fix some of the busted mount points on my front bumper, waiting for me to have some time.

Has anyone found ramps that just work with the car? I have to lay out some wood in front of mine to have the front splitter not push the ramps ahead and it's really obnoxious since the only wood I have is a giant piece of particleboard. The fact that I'm running slightly shorter 225/40R18s instead of the 215/45R18s doesn't help either.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nah, mine are Rhinos. I suppose I could just find some smaller, easier-to-work-with scraps of wood, huh.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Jesus, $2300? Worst case you could probably double that easy in parting it out.

I spent most of my day doing maintenance on mine. I fixed the broken tabs on my front bumper since whoever took it off to install the CAI didn't realise that the upper corners of the bumper are held on with bolts instead of clips; those bolts were a pain in the dick to get in properly. Also cleaned the air filter, changed the oil, and changed the plugs.

I had to take both hoses off of the bypass valve to remove the intercooler, though, and I think I messed one of them up. As it was, I put it all back together and drove about a hundred feet in the neighborhood before I remembered I forgot to tighten the clamps on the boost hoses to the IC. Didn't even get into the boost at all, so I went back to the driveway and tightened them up. Went back out and got on it, and as soon as it starts making any appreciable amount of boost, it feels like the computer pulls it all and the car hits a loving brick wall. No lights yet, haven't checked for a code. My money is on me being an rear end and reusing the spring clamps instead of replacing them with worm clamps. I'm going to replace those tomorrow (after I get a 24mm socket so I can replace the transmission fluid) and go from there.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Update: Replaced the two clamps on the BPV and I seem to have boost back. Not really sure because I just made a short drive to Home Depot to look for a 24mm socket, got back out empty handed, started the car, and found I was in limp-home mode again. I never did get around to cleaning the throttle body last year and it seems like whatever gunk is there gets exacerbated on cooler and/or more humid days...well, last night was a torrential downpour, so yeah.

Update the second: New clamps resolved the boost issue.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Aug 22, 2010

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply