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Frosty- posted:After that, it's tires, and I want to talk about that too: It seems I've chewed through my RE050As in something like 12,000 miles. It's time for new tires and I'm looking for recommendations. Should I stick with the same tires, or are there grippier/quieter/longer-lived/cheaper/whatever tires out there that would work better for me? I'm thinking I want to move to 225/45 from the current 215/45s. Is there a significant benefit to this? I know at least it'll put the speedometer correct. RE050As are terrible and as good as/slightly worse than new allseason tires. Going to 225/40 isn't a bad idea but seemingly at the absolute limit of what you can put on a 7" wheel. I'm going to get a Dyson test done on Rotella 5W40 in a bit, hopefully around 4k miles so I can compare it to the M1 I had tested from before.
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Dec 24, 2008 15:09
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Psylocibe posted:Why do you say that? Anyone we've put those on at my shop has generally been pleased with the performance. They're going on something like 6 or 7 years old now, one of the worst performing summer tires on tirerack.com's tests and flat out have no redeeming qualities. If you compare test times between any of the newer allseasons -- RE960s, P-Zeros etc you'll see the lap times, brake times and acceleration times are virtually identical. They're old tires in an industry driven by innovation. Every year brings better tread patterns and better compounds.
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Dec 24, 2008 15:35
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Sublime Process posted:+1. The only time my RE050As lose traction is when I stomp on the gas, and the pavements been dry when that happened. lighter, better and cheaper tire with similar treadlife (although its not available in 215/45, only 225/40)
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Dec 24, 2008 16:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Well, you've certainly had your share of the Mazda Curse. Also, a 5 with a turbo would be pretty loving AI. Some of the earlier ones had bum engine mounts that dropped the engine but it was a big recall for all of that afaik. The trannies might be dogged to poo poo, since half the people on the forum brag about flat shifting constantly. The engine has pretty severe fuel dilution issues as well but it seems all direct injected engines, especially side injections, suffer from it. Meaning oil has to be changed often, every 3k isn't a bad idea it seems. The windshield creaks and moans in the winter on some cars. And you can break into it by kicking the door a bit towards the engine near the door handle. Some turbos might have had bum/weak seals as well, but the jury is still out on that. Seems the seals are more than adequate unless you swap out the exhaust, in which case you might want to replace the seal as well. There's really nothing of note yet, i'm at 33k with no problems other than the engine mount recall. My windshield used to creak and moan but this winter it has stopped. The transmission is being extra lovely though and I really need to switch out tranny fluid. As for the N/A - Turbo comparison, the turbo is a bit longer because of the fuel pump. Which is also noisey as poo poo, it basically sounds like it is making GBS threads valves.
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Dec 24, 2008 21:14
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trouser chili posted:Is it just the DISI MZR motors that have seen examples of excesive fuel contamination of the oil, or is it all MZR engines? My manual states 7,500 oilchange intervals, I was planning on going with 5000 cause it's a nice easy number to work with. Just DISIs, it's a "thing" that direct injection engines suffer from. Gas gets injected in unburnt, miniscule amounts slip past and into the oil. Seems to be worse, as I said, with engines that inject from the side (read: basically everyone but GM) according to BITOG. Most of the Ecotec stuff seemed better against fuel dilution while Audi and Mazda seemed worse. Pure theory though, could be different now with more oil samples available to look at. Also with BITOG, people have run it out to 6k but the fuel dilution starts getting high. Bad enough that it might not be a good long term (100k+ mile) thing.
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Dec 24, 2008 22:43
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mine only goes to 33  Just get your oil checked, 5k might be fine but it seems like 7500 is a definite no-no.
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Dec 25, 2008 02:12
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Frosty- posted:I was under the impression the Mazdaspeed CAI was discontinued. If I were you I'd check out cp-e's parts. I have the Cobb SF myself, but those seem to be snapping bits off MS3s. What's that about? Better to just go with the Corksport SF intake?
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Dec 29, 2008 15:40
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:The actual shifting doesn't bother me so much. It's going into gear. 2nd gear always grinds just a bit. 2nd is the largest gear you shift into at speed so its the most prone to grind. Switching fluid should fix it.
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Jan 7, 2009 22:24
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 Rotella off to be tested. That is about the most black oil i've pulled out of the car by far. The amount of soot is incredible. To Frosty: Get the AFR log too if you can. From the stock ECU when yours is pulling timing, it should be around 9.
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Jan 9, 2009 16:06
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XT-M5-QS That's supposed to be the best tranny oil around but I'm not entirely sure how it will work in this particular transmission. I still want to ask around on BITOG to see whether it'll eat up the 6 speed or not. I guess it's an Aisin transmission in the car since the MS6 has one.
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Jan 11, 2009 19:59
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Report is back, Rotella blew Mobil1 away: Click here for the full 1224x1583 image. I forgot how many miles were on the oil, it was actually 5,500 not 4,500
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Jan 14, 2009 23:35
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What's the deal with that? I just ordered an SRI finally, do I need to break out the foam tape or duct tape or something?
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Jan 18, 2009 01:36
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MS3 so I guess just run it without the bracket and things will be "fine". Does anyone know what the OD of the intake pipe is? I need to go hunting for a paper filter
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Jan 18, 2009 02:09
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I have a hard time believing a MAF sensor could be ruined by vibrations considering that the entire thing will be vibrating like a motherfucker to begin with. I'm just going to run bracket-less or do some quality ziptie work to secure it to the engine. I don't have it yet but I'm thinking mounting it off of something to the plastic cover on the intercooler might work best. It's easy to drill into, doesn't matter if it breaks and in theory should be close enough. If you slot the connections slightly and use soft grommets to allow some movement since both pieces ought to be independent of each other.
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Jan 18, 2009 20:12
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There aren't any NAPA paper filters that mate to the Cobb SRI, but Amsoil has one that will: EAAU4560. It's a bit longer but it will fit fine apparently.
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Jan 23, 2009 20:07
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Threw SRI on, loud as hell even in the cabin surprisingly enough. Wonderfully obnoxious and it does feel a bit better. Seeing as this is my only mod and the gas in this area is 92 or 93 octane, I shouldn't worry about planning on getting an AP at any point should I?
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Jan 24, 2009 04:13
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mazda curse must have been lifted  
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Feb 12, 2009 21:47
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All Mazdas are cursed. There was a stretch for about 3-4 months that everyones Mazdas were being rear-ended or t-boned or somehow being destroyed. And yeah, that tree was felled just from the wind today. It fell onto a shipping container -- the container was barely dented.
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Feb 13, 2009 01:06
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What wheels would you all recommend for 17x7.5 or 17x8? I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on Konig Feathers but wondering what else is out there. Trying to keep it beneath $150 a corner.
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Mar 5, 2009 22:04
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meatpimp posted:On the MZR front -- if I'm looking at a CX-7, how many of the MS3 mods will apply? I'd assume not much, iirc the CX-7 has a different compressor wheel? or something different with the turbo. The engine bay might be similar enough to the 3 that you could get away with an intake, though. The thing supposedly is based off of it.
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Mar 6, 2009 02:43
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The Mazdaspeed CAI was fixed from what I have heard. Aftermarket short ram intakes/cold air intakes (possibly?) have lovely mounting positions and can snap what they attach to off. The alternative is to just leave the intake hanging by the clamp. Someone said the MAF wouldn't like that but I don't think it really cares, even with it attached to the chassis the intake will still be vibrating just as harshly. However, I guess it could fall off so check to make sure your intake sitting on the halfshafts.
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Mar 6, 2009 18:59
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CombatWombat posted:Corporate fleet to me makes it sound like a press vehicle and i'd stay the gently caress away. Finding an MS6 for <20k with normal miles per year shouldn't be an issue and as such it isn't worth gambling on an beat to hell one. edit: here's a few near that zip code edit2: Check the sticker on the window, that looks like DoD or GSA stickers and if it is who cares, can't be all that worse than any other used MS6. hallebarrysoetoro fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 17, 2009 |
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Mar 17, 2009 18:24
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Tremek posted:Just installed the Cobb SRI on my MS3 but wasn't aware of the bracket/engine movement breaking things. Any suggestions for the long run? I've been running without it for a few months now and it's fine. Just make sure you check the intake from time to time to make sure it hasn't somehow worked itself loose, but I can't imagine that happening under normal conditions.
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Mar 27, 2009 01:31
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Finally have wheels and tires mounted:   5zigen ZR+520s in 17x7. Kind of wanted to go 17x8 but things get pretty difficult, offset-wise, to find anything that would work. edit: Was actually dropping from 18 to 17 since they still cleared and tires end up being $100-200 cheaper each time around. hallebarrysoetoro fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Mar 28, 2009 |
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Mar 28, 2009 16:07
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I have one for the 3, it's nice and installs well enough. You can take the vacuum line off the intake though which makes it a billion times easier to install. Unfortunately Cobb's instructions never said poo poo about that and I hate to cut up the stock accordion tube to peel it off. I also put on an Amsoil paper filter (p/n EAAU4560-EA) so in theory it'd filter near as well as the stock filter.
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May 26, 2009 17:34
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quote:SMOKE FROM TAIL PIPES AFTER PROLONGED IDLE PERIODS so looks like rotella is that much better as it is a ghetto fix for the smoking issue
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Jul 11, 2009 02:39
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Can you get away without accessport with an intake and a catback?
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Jul 26, 2009 01:28
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Frosty- posted:Yep. If you replace your downpipe or move to a bigger intercooler you'll want to see about custom (or at least OTS) tunes. Cool, thinking about throwing on an exhaust and seeing how it goes power-wise and $1000 is a bit more tolerable than $1600 to see how it works.
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Jul 26, 2009 21:35
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Tremek posted:My engine failure does seem to be a rarer problem than all the full load + < 3k rpms = boom reports out there for the MZR DISIs - we're looking at the other end of the engine here. The car had something like 120 miles on it when I bought it... I wonder how hard it was flogged before I owned it. I'm definitely not an abusive driver, so I feel pretty justified in thinking the failure wasn't my fault. The mechanics indicated bearings between the crankshaft & conrod doing that are a result of lack of oiling, but who knows. Spun bearing that early just means something was out of spec. Something else on the engine would have been destroyed before that if it had been abused.
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Aug 1, 2009 07:00
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Lilbeefer posted:Anyone on AI had a blown engine yet? Don't idle the car forever. Or use 5W40 oil.
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Aug 17, 2009 14:51
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Looks identical to the old trunk. You can fit a golfbag in there without putting the seats down.
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Sep 5, 2009 21:10
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Finally going to go steelies -- 16" off of Tirerack seems to be the best and avoids having to pay blingtax on 18" tires in the future. They're selling 16x6.5s for $55 which seems to be a decent enough deal considering they'll mount and balance them at tirerack.
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Oct 24, 2009 18:14
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Frosty- posted:A lot of the jerks at the various Mazda forums have been parroting that fuel dilution is a huge problem and that these engines are super-rough on oil, but I guess that's just them desperately searching for absolution when their mistreated car starts running poorly eh, my UOA came back with pretty nasty fuel dilution
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Nov 26, 2009 07:04
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Shoota_McG posted:Will a 16" wheel fit over the front brakes or will I have to go to a 17"? This is the first time I've had to buy new wheels and tires for winter so I'm in new territory here. I put some cheapo winters from Canadian Tire on my Focus for under $550 but I'm guessing I won't get off that cheaply here. Pretty sure the '10s need 17s, 16s just barely clear on the 1st gen.
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Jan 23, 2010 23:29
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BexGu posted:Are there any good mats that will cover the back of a 2010 MS3, and if possible the seats when they are folded down? It won't cover it with the seats folded down but weathertech (https://www.weathertech.com) makes a pretty nice cargo mat.
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Apr 4, 2010 16:09
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Curse was lifted a year ago Wind normally comes from a direction that would have sent the tree down on the car. Have to hand it to shipping containers though, the thing barely has a dent on it from that tree falling on it.
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Sep 24, 2010 18:04
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I thought the 2nd gen MS3s required 17" wheels to clear the brakes? The 16" steelies from tirerack definitely fit a 1st gen, I ran them for a winter.
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Oct 27, 2010 03:47
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I went the other direction. It's nice having gobs of traction but at the same time you miss the completely raw nature of the car. And, the MZR is about 6000000000x the engine the EJ25 is. Torque like a diesel and since it's turbo, the minuscule redline isn't much of an issue.
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Dec 27, 2010 20:11
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