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[Posted edited for brevity] Bought an MS6 GT used almost a year ago; clutch went out after 2 months, bought out of the financing with life savings, TIME TO GET TO WORK. Mods discovered so far: - "A" Pillar boost gauge, may fly off in accident and hit me in face when curtains deploy. - Unichip Engine Management system, now deprecated. - AEM intake(?) - Sweet "custom" turbo plumbing - Magnaflows - Stage 2 check engine light The car, super rad.  Dat pedal shear (Pedal's been fixed, but now fork may be out.)  Where we stand; it still works even after 8 months of sitting!  Plans, to keep myself organized: 1) Polish headlights, wash car 2) Remove boost gauge from A-pillar, reinstall elsewhere. 3) Remove outdated nav system. It's really cool, but the screen doesn't always work correctly, so it needs to be bagged and tagged safely. I will probably put a gauge pod in its place. 4) Lubricate/replace sticking/nonfunctional driver front and rear power window assemblies as needed. 5) Figure out where the open teed and loose vent lines go, pictures follow if any of you can link to an FSM or can look at it and tell me what's up. 6) Clutch job; car does not start from stop, it bogs trying to go into first or reverse pretty quickly and stalls out. I'm betting clutch release fork has a stress fracture, or its pivot was crushed. 7) Thermostat. It was being sticky in winter, I don't like sticky thermostats. 8) Find a used set of Evo X/GSR wheels with tires; current Enkeis that came on the vehicle are slightly bent, and the tires are mostly poo poo. Really don't hold air as well as they should, probably not going to pass next inspection. The GSR wheels look and fit *great* on the car; Mustangs and Subaru products also have similar stock offsets. GOOD NEWS: I live in Texas so I can run Summer Performance tires year-round. 9) Probably get a new intake for this thing, I have no idea what the PO did here, it seems to be an AEM poduct with some customization to it, the rhino-lining on it rubs the battery which is probably not safe. 10) Get a blade key. It only came with a valet key. poo poo pisses me off. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 19:05
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Rhyno posted:drat son. Tough, I know, especially considering all the implications of the PO's mods, and the work required. I did consider parting it, but decided against it. I enjoyed driving it while I had it, and it deserves better. The following problems will be corrected with an intake and a front-mount, but of course we need a picture tour of this sweet-rear end "intake." We'll start where the compressor goes into the intercooler. I guess that's like a radiator hose or something that someone bunged?  I have no idea what this little open white plastic tee would be for. My first thought was "boost gauge", as it's directly after the compressor housing, but I'm pretty sure that's the thin, plastic tube that comes from behind the master cylinder reservoir. The other end goes back into the intake, which seems legit.  The intake. Cold air is not handled well on this car, whether pre or post compressor wheel. The cone filter here could probably be in an even cooler location:  Intake rubs on battery. I have no idea how this passed inspection at the dealership I bought it from. They were not a fly by night operation, and well-resourced.  Further forward, we peek under this elbow...  ...to find this uhhh whatever this open 90' elbow is. Does this do anything that isn't "impede the shifter weight"?  Inadvisable boost gauge placement w/r/t curtain airbags: 
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Sep 11, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 01:12
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Heyyy! I'd actually like to support Magnaflows on the Speed6; I have them on mine (that hasn't run in a year), and they sounded great.
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Feb 24, 2017 00:10
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Rhyno posted:Good to know! The only missing piece of the puzzle right now is a Cobb Accessport but I'm in no real rush for that. Absolutely! Kinda rumbly. Puts out a good, pleasant note. Sounds good from the cabin.
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Feb 24, 2017 00:18
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This post is organization: I bought a Black Mica 2006 in October 2015, and the clutch went out in December, 2-3 months afterwards. It was financed, and I already went through the whole "you're hosed on used cars in Texas for the Lemon Law" thing, so I just dumped my entire life savings on the financing to put the fire out. It's not going to financially wound me any more, even if it is just inert. It needs a few things, all of which I'm open to suggestion on: 1) I need to get rid of this UniChip system. The previous owner installed this as a Piggyback EMS, and when you toggle the rocker switch for it that he left loose in the driver footwell, the car doesn't start. UniChip as a company has deprecated their Mazdaspeed platform support. REPLACE WITH: AccessPort. I live in Austin, I can just drive it to Cobb Tuning and pick one up once I get the scratch together. 2) Battery tray: There's literally nothing strapping the battery down except cable tension. The PO appears to have removed it to make room for the AEM intake. REPLACE WITH: Stock part. Or smaller group battery with enough CCAs, we'll see. 3) New wheels and tires. It's been sitting for a year, and the Konigs it came with have dents, and the lovely tires it came with lose air. REPLACE WITH: RX-8 GT wheels because I guess they look good and are same dimensions as stock, and can be had reasonably inexpensively on local cruggslist. 4) Thermostat. I noticed it being sticky per the dash gauge just before the clutch went out. REPLACE WITH: OEM. gently caress non-OEM thermostats. 5) Clutch, the big one. The car does not move under its own power; I'm pretty sure that the clutch disk and pressure plate are fine, and the problem roots in the fork/TOB/fork pivot based on how the car behaves. One is able to shift into gear, but the car immediately bogs and stalls out on normal feathering of the clutch. REPLACE WITH: Probably OEM as well, maybe LUK if anyone can indepdently verify that they're the OEM supplier, as I've heard rumor of. This is a repair I may actually take to the stealership, I'm a little torn; I want to save $1,000, but I also want accountability and warranty on the work itself, especially after the pedal box cracking when I first bought the car. That and I don't have a crane to keep the engine hoisted.
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May 3, 2017 18:02
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Sorry to doublepost, but are there any other auto manufacturers than Ford and the majority of the glorious Nipponese brands that use 5x114.3 and high (+50-55) positive offset? I'm searching craigslist for OEM wheels from other companies that also look good; So far Acura (+45-55), Lexus (+50), Infiniti (+45 on the 17s), and Ford Mustang wheels (+50) all seem to match passably, but obviously I'm open to peanut gallery suggestions. edit: Jeep Wranglers up to 2006 apparently use 5x114.3 and +50mm offset, along with modern Patriots and Compasses, as well as the old Comanches. I'm super curious, those Wrangler Rubicon flatwide fives would look really crazy and axe-like on a sedan. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 18:30 on May 5, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 16:39
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They are quite snazzy, but I haven't been able to source MS6 wheels anywhere locally at a decent price, so I'm exploring prevalent/suitable/cost-efficient craigslist options. I have heard good things about the Southbend product, so I'll look into pricing on that, thank you.
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May 5, 2017 19:55
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No dents? A little curb rash is fine to me, I just need them to hold air over time better than the dead Konigs. According to the internet the MS3 GenJuan wheels are +52mm instead of +55mm, so I don't see fitment being an issue. Email me if you want to discuss it: kamikazeben@gmail.com I had not considered 16s before, but I have to say it doesn't look bad according to GIS: 
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May 5, 2017 21:19
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Yeahhhh alright gently caress that. I'll stick to 17s if I need more tire meat, the builds that utilize 17s are much better documented. Thanks for the heads up.
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May 5, 2017 21:45
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The RX-8s were the plan, they're the most plentiful (as you say) direct fit in my nearby area, a lot of people even leave decent tires on them. They look great on Speed6s, too, kinda makes 'em look like a late-model GTO/Holden Monaro lite
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May 5, 2017 22:11
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Alright. I tried to start it with the ol' deep cycle last night after a year of sitting, and the Speed6 refuses to crank, but at least gets accessory power. I'm looking around for an engine crane and getting a new fork, pivot, and TOB sourced, under the assumption that the fork is now split through, and won't disengage the TOB. Hoping the dude who made me a spare key yesterday didn't gently caress up the pairing and trip up DPATS (IPATS?)
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 21:15 on May 15, 2017 |
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May 15, 2017 16:45
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Ok, so I got a borescope down into the bellhousing; while I did not get a solid eye on the fork itself (MY target of concern), I was able to confirm correct-seeming hydraulic actuation, with no visible loss in pressure or holding capacity. The pedal seems to like to stick to the floor a lot, so I'm gonna say MAYBE I WAS WRONG ABOUT THE FORK and hope that this MCyl I ordered fixes the issue. I ordered a master cylinder from Mazda and am going to try installing it ASAP; it's the only hydraulic component that hasn't been replaced yet. I may also have an ACT clutch, the pressure plate looked yellow, but that may have been the 'scope Waffle House fucked around with this message at 18:31 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 17:22
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Wow, are you modded at all? That totally blows, wtf.
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May 24, 2017 16:27
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Larrymer posted:If the trans is still in decent shape without grinds and overall the car is clean, I'd just rebuild it or buy a used shortblock + turbo. Still you aren't in very deep money wise. This. Remember that the same 2.3 DISI motor came not just in the Mazdaspeeds, but also in the CX-7 Sport, if you're junkyarding around for a block. iirc the Turbo is a K04 Waffle House fucked around with this message at 22:38 on May 25, 2017 |
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May 25, 2017 22:29
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I am an MS6 owner, technically hahahaha We'll see how much I can contribute if I can get the MCyl replaced once I get MONEY
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Jun 2, 2017 16:05
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Okay, well, the car sitting for a year means rodents got to the engine wiring harness it looks like. I now have a wiring harness, clutch master, window motors, battery tray and tie downs, and some emblems headed my way, please cross your fingers, maybe pray a bit for me as I start putting my fist into the can to see if it is full of worms now
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Jun 15, 2017 04:00
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It's still gonna be Haldex, power take off style, because Subaru has triple-diff symmetrical AWD On The Lock™ for consumer vehicles iirc
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Jul 27, 2017 06:40
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MA-Horus posted:I would think having an AWD Mazda3 would cut into sales of the CX-3, would it not? Probably, really, but stop thinking like a manufacturer shhhhhh
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Jul 27, 2017 15:38
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Breed & Co might have it, but B&C is a little boutique-ish...? I don't know how to put it; call ahead to see if they have the thing, the staff is very competent. Fastenal and Crown Bolt are good choices in Austin; I've had great luck getting stuff from Fastenal myself. Not fastener-specific, but Austin Performance & Specialty off N Lamar is a hot rodder's dream if you need performance-specific odds and ends. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Sep 15, 2017 |
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Sep 15, 2017 18:28
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Heyyyy this guy is finally shipping the engine loom to me that rats ate on my Speed6. Hopefully after two years of laying fallow it doesn't Zoom-Zoom-Boom on me the first time I try to crank it over. I'm expecting anything touching oil, especially the turbo seals, to have soured over the sitting time. 
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Sep 25, 2017 19:22
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eddiewalker posted:I just pulled the cabin air filter out of my ‘14 3 for the first time and it’s stuffed with shredded black foam. That looks like shredded weather stripping. I take it you haven't driven through any foam blizzards recently? I might check the intake/filter box's seals to see if they got chewed on and then sucked up against the filter itself. It *does* look mighty rodent-y.
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Oct 18, 2017 16:41
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eddiewalker posted:As far as I can tell, environmental air is drawn from the vents in front of the windshield. I can’t see anywhere I could even inspect without pulling the dash. Oh, CABIN air filter. Sorry, I misread your original post. I do not know where the ducts run on a late Mazda 3, but the source of that foam can't be too far upstream from the site of discovery in your cabin filter.
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Oct 18, 2017 19:07
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Alright. I'm gonna do it. I'm fixing this loving derelict Speed6 that has sat in my parents' driveway for going on three years now. Poor loving thing; I've just been afraid of whatever gremlins have taken up residence, and it's time to just bring out the flamethrower of my hands and tools. It's gonna need tires, a master cylinder (I'm pretty sure it's the mcyl and not the TOB/clutch fork rendering it immobile judging by the crystallized run of fluids leaking down the firewall), and an AccessPort because this UniChip thing is defunct as hell and no longer supported by its manufacturer.
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Feb 9, 2019 17:53
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Rhyno posted:RIP your wallet. I managed to use community connections to source a harness from someone parting out, and he kindly tossed in a used mcyl for free. The AP CAN be lived without because the Unichip is “set up” for what it’s worth, but the tires...yeah. I’m hoping I find someone getting rid of a set of already-shoed Evo X stock wheels for cheap. These Konigs are bullshit e:  Yeah maybe this is why I had trouble shifting   Fuckin squirrels  I kept thinking maybe it'd just be easier to whip out the angle grinder but that seemed like a bad idea near the A/C piping and everything else  SQUIRRELS  Datsun makes a fine workbench with its 2 acres of hood; the 1JZ isn't popping over right now because I don't have a check valve anywhere in the fuel feed lines, but that's an easy fix now that I know what's up   Lookin' like I might need to “rebuild the turbo” at some point if we've got oil in the I/C piping
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Feb 10, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 19:53
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loving AWESOME I got the car starting again, I'm jazzed. The wiring harness was quite an adventure. Definitely takes some gymnastics and a few days' labor and lifting to get everything, dash included, out of the way to disconnect and reconnect everything...      ...but with some perseverance, we got a full complement of dash lights again! Wow, look at that, 101,060 miles on a loving '06  While I had the harness out, I vacuumed out all the squirrel poop and chewed up acorns. The squirrel definitely made a bachelor pad out of the exhaust side of my engine.  BITTER ALE BREAK  Next day, I discovered that part of the reason that the car wouldn't start is because the starter interlock switch had broken long ago, and I guess the PO had wrapped some electrical tape around it to bypass it. I remember unhooking this at some point, and so I re-taped and reinstalled it best I could until I can get a new one on Monday. Apparently it's common for Mazdaspeed owners to bypass this using a paperclip because uhhhh thrust load on your crank or some poo poo means you want to disable one of your neutral safety switches, idfk but whatever, repairing this made the car start:  Old coolant came out with no oil in the mix, which I was really happy to see. I replaced it with probably 55/45 silicate/phosphate free PEAK long life and distilled water. The car additionally has gotten a fresh change of ~6.8qts of Pennzoil Platinum Fully synthetic 5W-30. It seems like everyone and their grandmother runs Rotella T6 in turbo cars (worked well in my old Subaru!), so I may switch to that at some point.  Three of the four tires held air after three years of sitting.  Fortunately the spare was completely mint, so I can use that to get this thing to Discount Tire or something and put some better poo poo on it than the mismatched crap it's had since I bought it from the jerks at the used lot. I aired everything up to 35PSI and put the donut on, so after the key/immobilizer issue is resolved, NEW SHOES!: When inspecting the thermostat, I found the power steering reservoir cap...  ...but...wait a sec, if this is the reservoir cap, then what the gently caress is covering my reservoir...?   holy poo poo someone lost the cap down on top of the thermostat and just put a loving PS Fluid bottle cap on top of it. SEND IT After I got all the oil and coolant changed, I bled the clutch: I have to say, I'm 99% convinced that the master cylinder failure in the post above was the major contributing factor to the car's parking. I have never seen so many loving bubbles and so much filth bleed out of a clutch line before. It was like carbonated pea soup for a solid 20-30 minutes of pedal pumping. I am blessed to have cool goon friends who enjoy this sort of poo poo and are happy to help out. To-Do list: (1) Thermostat. I purchased an OEM one, but forgot to change it while I had the coolant out of the car. Compared to everything else I've done, this is a piece of loving cake, so I'm not worried about it until tomorrow or maybe Monday. (2) Holy gently caress the brakes. Oh my sweet cartwheeling and cavorting goodness look at that poo poo. The rears are fine (albeit rusty) but the front rotors are loving *lipped.* I'm probably just going to order a front/rear kit off RockAuto at some point in the near future and just do all four corners. (3) lol gently caress me those tires. The Konig wheels are really not in great shape either, though do hold air, and have awkward double-bungs for tire pressure sensors this car doesn't, afaik, have. (4) Window regulators. I have all four of them, the driver window and the passenger rear window both have stripped gear teeth, so they don't really go down. (5) Get some remotes and keys made. This car ONLY came with the "spare" key; I hollered at the local Mazda dealership to get a quote...they not only don't stock the MS6 Card Fobs anymore, but it would also be around ~$450 for them to even look at this. I searched around and found the proper Amazon fob, and bonus, it's a flip key as well! I bought a two-pack so I can program my own keys and transponders in the future. I'll have to take these to get cut identically to my current key, but it'll be much cheaper to bring a mobile locksmith 'round to sync the transponders up this first time. https://www.amazon.com/Flip-Remote-Mazda-Miata-BGBX1T478SKE125-01/dp/B06Y2FCS8J?th=1 All in all, I'm glad I decided to spend this week getting this thing more towards roadworthy. I really missed it. It's such a beast of a car, and I'm even kind of excited to see if it blows up so I can just fix it all over again. It's pretty sensibly and accessibly designed where wrenching on it is concerned. Future plans: - AccessPort - FMIC - Turbo is probably fine, there wasn't a ton of shaft play, so my friend is likely correct about the PCV needing a change. - Evo X wheels. They look loving fantastic on these Speed6s and are the proper bolt pattern and offset. This car is not lowered, so I should be able to squeeze a little bit fatter rubber than 215/40/r18 on it no problem, which would fill out the wells nicely. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 03:23
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Ok. The locksmith couldn’t help me, his equipment couldn’t communicate with the car’s keyless entry system. I plugged the Unichip back in after he left, on a whim, and the car starts fine now. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ It needs new gas and an actually charged battery. Let’s see what other comedy develops, shall we?
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Feb 18, 2019 03:00
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Just loving lol that you can jumper the CIRCUIT relay it'll spit the fuel tank's contents out the low pressure fuel line I recovered almost the entire tank this way before it slowed to a trickle and then stopped. There's a little gas left in the bottom, but...  ...it doesn't look too gross after three years of sitting! It still smelled, wafted, and fumed like Premium, and there wasn't really a varnish odor or anything. I still may pull the pump and figure out how to drain the last gallon or two, just in case it separated. The gauge registered a small amount remaining.  On that note, the rear seats are incredibly easy to remove. The locking lids for tank access however require a janky special tool, which there is not much clearance for at all. This poo poo is as easy to work on as my 2.5RS was, and that thing was made of LEGO  Was this one the boost gauge tee...?  Or this one, maybe...? Golly, I sure love vacuum and boost leaks.  
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Feb 25, 2019 |
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Feb 25, 2019 03:07
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Elmnt80 posted:You can make a fuel tank lock ring tool from a piece of flat stock with a bfh and grinder. Or lisle sells one that works. I might borrow it from AutoZone: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-fuel-pump-replacement-kit/oem-fuel-pump-replacement-kit/605758_0_0 ...but do you have a Lisle P/N? Or is it not Mazda-specific?
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Feb 25, 2019 03:24
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Elmnt80 posted:Lisle 63000. Its a universal tool for those style lock rings. Praise the gods of fuel, tiresmoke, and fire
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Feb 25, 2019 03:44
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DEAR AI DIARY, Did the plugs and thermostat on the Speed6 today. The ones I removed were OEM, I replaced them with NGKs. Cylinder #1's plug was a little spicy, and I mean hosed.     Oh that's so much better. One of the coilpack bolts has been uhhh replaced at some point. I'll go hit up a junkyard and see if I can find a clean one; this works for now, but I lol every time I find something SENT on this car.  Having funsized hands owns  The thermostat was in okay shape, but I was having some problems with it sticking in cold weather when I first bought the car. Seems reasonable to change it at 100k. I elected to go with OEM; by the part number it looks like they had a revision.  I think I may want to replace the belt tensioner at some point what with that chunk bitten out of the lip.  
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Mar 4, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 01:47
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Sweet, the Speed6 moves under its own power. I took it for a drive around the block last night; whatever tune was on the UniChip is super, super rich, so I’m just driving with it disabled. The Borla exhaust sounds great on this thing, and BOY I forgot how heavy an AWD powertrain is to load up. I’m impressed that this thing sat for three years and fired right up/drove when all the conditions were met; my turbo may be smoking, judging by the bluish vapor coming from the exhaust even after extended warmup and idle/driving. Given the condition of everything else on the car I’m gonna guess that was the PO’s breaking point on trading it in. Next up: TIRES! Waffle House fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Mar 9, 2019 |
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Mar 8, 2019 16:50
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Looks like Hankook Ventus V12s in 235/40/18 rate the highest for daily driving in Texas weather conditions, any objections? Car isn’t gonna be tracked for a while until I sort out any remaining bugs. I was also looking at BFG SportComp2s and Firehawk Indy 500s; I used the BFGs frequently on my RS and they held up well. I think some dude is gonna sell me a full set of hardcopy FSMs too, soon as he sets up a PayPal Waffle House fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Mar 13, 2019 |
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Mar 13, 2019 16:22
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So I'm trying to install this Cobb turbo inlet pipe, and I'm having trouble fitting it on. It seems like it's too small...? But then why does it- oh, I guess the custom intake tube that came with the car is a little bigger. That's weird, that doesn't make sense at all-  ...oh.  Suddenly all the previous owner's mods make sense. He went to Garrett. Unknownmass posted:Let me know if there is a better place to ask. I'm going to look at a used 2016 CX-5. It has 65,000 miles, are there any major issues with this model I should look out for? Thank you. I don't know anything SPECIFIC about those, but here's the NHTSA's recall page for the car; see if you can get the selling party to get these taken care of if it meets mileage/age criteria: https://www.cars.com/research/mazda-cx_5-2016/recalls/
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Mar 15, 2019 01:17
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Well the Cobb intake looks great... AND SO DO THESE FUCKIN FIREHAWKS, drat. I went with 235s, which is about as much as you can fit without rolling fenders and clearance-ing the body on these 8.5s. The wheels are kinda rashed but gently caress it.  CAR LOOKS GREAT, needs a bath  If anyone needs diagrams or procedures, I'm your huckleberry. My shop manuals came in, and as far as I can tell I have everything I need to fix anything on this car except for a Mazda WDS setup. Speaking of, if anyone knows where to get ahold of that...  Gotta figure out why my rear running lights aren't turning on with the headlamps, kinda nice to have factory wiring diagrams, eh? 
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Mar 16, 2019 16:02
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You definitely did see me post them in the MS6 owner's club. I'm sure you noticed my consistency with the giraffe branding, as well. e: Does anyone know if this right here is legitimately a Worldwide Diagnostic tool? I'm pretty sure this is UNDER what a dealership would charge to fix my laundry list of problems that require this device. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Mar 16, 2019 16:17
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MC Hawking posted:Dude you made the batmobile. That frickin rips! Fixing someone’s old batmobile, but gently caress, same difference. From the mods I can see, the guy built it to be as much fun as possible before hitting the need for auxiliary port-injected fueling, so hey, right on man. hattersmad posted:A Cobb AP is half that price and I’m pretty sure you can read and clear codes with it. That being said, I’ve never had to read codes with mine, so maybe that thing is better somehow. Yeahhhh the AccessPort owns but it doesn’t let me reprogram the body control modules, etc. to get my dash cluster working...
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Mar 17, 2019 18:35
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 lord man jesus it is time. it is TIME
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Aug 29, 2019 23:11
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hattersmad posted:Nice! Just don’t run Cobb OTS tunes, they suck. Cobb does have nice OTS maps if you're running a stock or Cobb-parts-only lightly modified car, but the PO installed a Garrett on this MS6 so I'm in touch with the Freektune guys instead. I'm really happy to be rid of the UniChip; it was a good product, but I gotta move on to the Thing That Shows Me Live Data.
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Aug 29, 2019 23:27
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Current priority is getting the car registerable and inspectable, but the drinking of corn is an interesting future thought if it behaves itself.
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Aug 30, 2019 14:02
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Fabulousity posted:More Mazda rumor time: https://www.motor1.com/news/368139/mazda-vision-coupe-production-rumor/ There should absolutely some turbos on this car, whatever it might be. I'm so down for a Mazyota (Toyzda?) Aristenza MPS
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Sep 6, 2019 23:06
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