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I'm in the market for a newer car to replace my 240sx and the MS3 is on the short list. I test drove a beat up (and overpriced) 2007 Sport model yesterday and I liked the seats, clutch and shifter feel, and all of the other things that come with a 12 year younger car. (Holy torquesteer batman! This is the first powerful FWD car I've driven.) Although the previous owner had put on at the very least CAI, BOV, and installed a Greddy turbo timer (which I thought was unnecessary with modern, water cooled turbos?). By "beat up" I mean that the PO must have hopped a curb or hit something with a good amount of force to put a big dent in the kick panel and bottom of the passenger side door. The side skirt had definitely been replaced. The dealership wanted $13.9k for it. So, in this vein I've been looking locally for a GT model which all seem to have somewhere around 30k miles and listed prices between $16-17k from private sellers. What has everyone else paid for these cars? Would it be possible to get one for closer to $15k? I also found that a Mazda dealer in town has a new 09, white MS3 GT for sale. Looking online I found that people were paying around $20-21k in 2009 for the GT. Can anyone give me a guess on what you might be able to get 09 GT for now that it's been sitting on a lot for at least a year? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 10, 2010 |
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Jul 10, 2010 22:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's been sitting on the lot for a year, expect the dealer to not give a poo poo about moving it. That's what I encountered when in summer of '06, I was talking to the fuckheads at Earnhardt Mazda in Chandler about buying one of the nine '04/'05 Mazdaspeed Miatas they had on the lot. That's upsetting about the dealer you dealt with. I really like the look of the 08.5's and I think the white paint looks great. For kicks we tried to see how low we could get the dealer to budge on the 07 sport. I wouldn't even consider buying it unless I could get them to go really low, say $8k. We didn't spend a whole lot of time, but he tried to tell us that they owned the car for $13.7. I really just went to test drive the car since I had not driven one before. I think you're right about $15k being on the low side. I just said this because there are several MS3's that have been for sale on CL locally for over 2 months. My thought being that maybe the sellers will be a little more flexible now.
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Jul 10, 2010 23:27
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Can I get some quick advice on purchasing an 07 Mazdaspeed 3 GT? I've been looking for one for several months now, waiting for an attractive deal to come up. Ideally, I would buy an 08.5 GT for the nicer interior, but I don't know if I think the extra cost is really worth it. To the point: an 07 MS3 GT with 52k miles came up on craigslist for ~$13.4k. I contacted the seller asking for a VIN, maintenance history, etc. I got a response this morning explaining that the seller's husband took it to a Mazda dealership and they offered more for the vehicle than the CL ad was asking-- $13.5k-- but they won't be trading it in for a few days while they wait for some finances. So, my question is, are there common things, specific to the MS3 to check for that would help me quickly determine if this vehicle is in good shape? I've driven an 07 that had, at least, an aftermarket intake and BOV, as well as a stock 09 GT so I have a decent idea of how it should handle and act. If all things go well, would an offer of around $13,600-13,750 make sense?
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Sep 11, 2010 06:25
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Kynetx posted:Your best bet is to get a car that is as close to stock is you can find. Then again this applies to any kind of sporty car out there, be it a Mustang or a turbo Subaru, or what ever. I definitely didn't want the one with the BOV-- with all of the cars that I've looked at I really don't want anything with modifications, period. (What's the deal with everyone and their mother painting the emblems black?) It also had a big dent in the --- whatever you call that length of the body under the driver side door, along with a new sideskirt to cover it up. And a turbo timer. The dealership it was at denied that it was ever in an accident and wouldn't budge on the price either. (It was a fun test drive, at least, but $15k was way too much for it.) The changes for the 08.5 only included the GT, I think. They were only minor/visual changes. the cloth/leather seats now have alcantara instead of the grey/silver bits, along with alcantara on the dooor panels, and piano black plastic on the dash. Overall it just looks nicer. Edit: The seller of the MS3 in question hasn't gotten back to me, and the price seemed suspiciously low for a GT with that mileage. I think I'm going to keep looking. There's a dealership with an 09 GT on the lot that's a demo model. When I test drove it in July it had 3500+ miles on it and apparently the manager had been using it. When I saw it in the lot there were Whataburger cups in the cupholders and bunch of other crap. I tried get the salesman to come way down. After all, it's only a "new" car because it hasn't been titled. The mileage and wear on it already make a used car. Not to mention that demos are probably not treated that great. The price they wrote down was $22k-- which is about $1k over invoice, I think when it was new. But I had read on a few of the Mazda forums that people were paying $19k new back in 2009. I may call up the dealership again and really low ball them along with demanding an extended warranty, but it's probably not worth my time since I don't think they're all that motivated to sell it at this point. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Sep 12, 2010 |
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Sep 12, 2010 04:09
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Bovine Delight posted:I bought an 08.5 GT for about 19k out the door (tax and everything) around a year ago. Vehicle was owned by Mazda North America for some purpose or the other, had around 15k miles on it. No mods, clean title. Had just a couple of very minor rock chips that you'll find on any car thats been on a desert highway. I think you could get an 08.5 or 09 for around 16k-17k now. That's about what I expected. 16-17k makes a whole lot more sense to me than what people locally are asking for the 08.5-09. I think a lot of people got ripped off at the dealer and still owe money on their cars. (Sorry, for $27k you could've nearly had an STi; I will not pay $21k/take on payments.) I may shoot the dealership an email just for kicks. I had a Autocheck account about two months ago that I was using to check cars that I was interested in, but it was only good for one month. If I find a good deal I'll purchase it again. Carfax has really gotten stingy these days. They no longer have the unlimited check service, and have replaced it with a maximum of 5 checks.
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Sep 13, 2010 07:01
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Bovine Delight posted:... but apparently this is next to impossible with my BOSE setup. Isn't this basically the case with all cars equipped with a BOSE sound system? I recall sometime back, people claiming that BOSE speakers used some non-standard impedance or some other nonsense, and if you wanted to change out the head unit you had to rip out the entire system. Not that this is related to having a functional display-- but it is a rumor I've heard more than once.
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Nov 2, 2010 02:13
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 How powerful should we make the amplifier, Amar? Amplifier? Yes, amplifier, for the sound system. I think you mean amplifiers.
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Nov 2, 2010 22:23
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Does anyone know what the real market value is for 09 MS3 GTs? I've found one for sale locally with only ~12,000 miles, but the guy's asking $19.9k and I recall people were paying between $19-20k for a new model in 2008. NADA trade-in tells me it's worth $18.6k, and KBB says the private party value for excellent condition is $20k, but that doesn't mesh well with what I've read.
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Jan 12, 2011 00:58
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Well, I'm going to buy/pick up a black 2009 Speed3 GT from a local guy that I asked about several days ago. Do any of you guys have an oil catch can installed in your cars? I'm concerned about the accumulation of oil/carbon buildup in the intake that I've read about with the VW/Audi owners (and other people with DI engines). And if a catch can will extend the life and reduce maintenance on my car I'm all for installing one. After reading a few threads on the Mazda specific forums I'm having trouble deciding on if it solves a problem or somehow is actually creating a problem. That is, if you read these threads the people who install them will say that they have to empty the cans once a week or once a month. This is what they claim to have emptied from the cans:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Mazda3forums.com install thread  Mazda247 forum install thread So, here's my question. Does the catch can somehow create an environment (more vacuum, something else), where more condensation and oil accumulate in the can than would normally recirculate through the PCV? Also, if you own one of these, how often would one expect to have to empty/drain one of these if the car is just being used as a primary vehicle? One week to a month seems pretty often to me. I don't see this happening very soon, but say you're on a long road trip. Am I going to have to stop at every other gas station to drain my catch can? Another note: the people on these forums claim that the yellow fluid that they drained is gasoline, but that's absurd. There's no reason fuel should be accumulating in the crank case, correct?
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Jan 26, 2011 06:33
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Oh god what have I done? 2009 Speed3 GT with 12k miles  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Jan 30, 2011 08:44
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Bovine Delight posted:Black and red are both acceptable you numpty. That hideous blue is not. (note: cannot see the pic due to waffleimages sucking) Lilbeefer posted:The most acceptable colour is white - I wanted an 08.5-09 GT in Crystal White, but this was by far the best condition 09 I found. Not to mention the owner took excellent care of it. I'll take more photos in the day time when I can have better lighting. The pic I posted was grainy and not that great even with a tripod. At the time I was helping to install an oil temp and boost gauge in a 08 STi. In the light the black mica has a gold sparkle to it and looks amazing, and at a certain angle you might also think that it's the metro gray color.
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Jan 31, 2011 03:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:To add a datapoint to the discussion that popped up in the Stupid Questions thread here, I just got back from a trip between Los Angeles and Phoenix. On the way back, I had the info display on CONSUM CUR the whole time, and had cruise set almost the entire time. I've seen people say a similar thing on NASIOC and IWSTI. They claim that accelerating in sixth gear will put you in full boost at a low engine speed and could lead to similarly awful results.
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Feb 7, 2011 11:38
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Frosty- posted:What the gently caress is this poo poo: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f433/cs-hpfp-making-71839/ It seems like the majority of the Mazda specific forums are pretty horrible. What's the deal with that particular thread? Why was everything deleted/removed/people banned? air- posted:I'd second the RMM and Fuel Pump. In general I think the RMM is a better first mod than an intake. Driving and shifting with a better mount feels so much more solid than the stock one. I'm still waiting on the title for my MS3 from the PO's bank, but the previous owner told me he installed insert into the stock motor mount to stiffen it, but he didn't want to replace the mount entirely. After doing a quick search, it looks like he bought the Corksport rear motor mount insert, but I haven't tried looking in the engine bay to confirm this. Am I safe for now, or should I think about eventually installing an aftermarket RMM? I haven't been able to arrive at a conclusion on oil catch cans. Are any of you guys running one? Do you think it's a good idea? (Bonus points if you've seen the inside of your intake or intercooler before/after and can confirm if it actually does any good.) Edit: \/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Mazdaspeedforums might be one of those forums where it's a bannable offense to: link to other forums; link to vendors that aren't sponsors. 
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Feb 10, 2011 22:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:I popped P401 a couple weeks ago. Haven't done anything to it other than clear the code, but I know a new throttle body, a thorough EGR cleaning, and a coolant change are in my car's future. Just curious. Do you guys have some sort of code reader/cable/software, or do you just have the codes cleared at the dealer or an Autozone?
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Feb 20, 2011 08:40
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I really like the look of the MS6, minus the taillights. Get one.  Tonight I learned that if I'm putting along in second gear and then floor it I can spin the front tires once I hit boost. I'm worried that I'm going to have to get new tires soon if I keep doing this. :/
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Feb 25, 2011 10:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:Blackstone report back on Pennzoil Euro 5w40 on a ~9300 interval. In a nutshell, looks like there's no feasible way to get to a 10k OCI on this engine: Are 8k+ oil changes really what people are doing these days? Over how much time are you putting on that many miles? I'm about to change the oil in my MS3 for the first time, and I was planning on going with 5W40 Rotella at ~3k mile intervals. Maybe that interval is relatively short these days, but 8-10k miles seems really high to me. (I can't make any comments on the UOA. That's all moon language to me at the moment.) MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Mar 16, 2011 |
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Mar 16, 2011 01:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:I rack up on the order of 25k miles a year. I started off doing 4000 mile intervals due to all of the concern with fuel dilution and was changing my oil every other month. Based on the UOA results I've been ramping it up closer to Mazda's 'non heavy duty' schedule, and based on the last one it seemed like a 9-10k mile interval would be within reach; obviously not. Going off your UOA does fuel dilution appear to be a problem? I assume the most recent one, "TR" means trace, or not measurable?
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Mar 16, 2011 02:23
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I've noticed this a few times on my 09 MS3 and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this/if it's normal. I have a little over 13k miles on it. I bought it from another person in town with 12k miles. When I get home or I'm parked/sitting/idling somewhere in neutral, with the clutch engaged, I'll hear some rattling/chattering from the clutch. If I press in the pedal the sound goes away. It's not loud, but it's noticeable if you're somewhere quiet. Is my throwout bearing going bad, or is this normal? I've done some very limited searching and found that other MS3 owners have experienced this, but I'm not sure if this is something I should take the car to a dealer for, since it's still under the factory warranty.
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Apr 5, 2011 07:13
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Lilbeefer posted:I had this exact problem, and my dealer said it is a bearing, so they rebuilt the gear box. The noise didn't go away, so I took it back and they were cool enough to get permission from Mazda for a brand new gear box. SynMoo posted:The gearbox chatter perfectly normal. I've got it in my 2010 MS3 and have had it in other cars as well. Most notably a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T. The noise started after I swapped out the heavy-rear end dual mass flywheel and clutch combination with a traditional 14lb flywheel and clutch. There's just a lot of play in transaxles today it seems. That's sort of relieving, but it does seem loud to me. I never noticed this kind of noise on my 170k mile 240sx (but that thing had so many rattles that maybe I couldn't hear it if it did!). If I find some free time I'll probably take it to the dealership just to get some record of it. I also need to buy some oil filters so I'll kill two birds with one stone. This would be under drive train warranty work if something were going bad, right? I've never had a car under warranty. Do they bill you if you take it in for something like this? IOwnCalculus posted:07 MS3 GT here - six disc, no MP3. So glad I got an 09 now. I didn't realize that the 07-08 models didn't have MP3 cd players.
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Apr 6, 2011 07:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:That is bizarre. I need to rotate my tires. What jack locations do you use, and where do you place jack stands on the MS3? I don't want to go and destroy my paint/pinch seems when I go to lower it onto stands the first time. Also, I changed my oil for the first time since I bought the car. Mazda really made some stupid design decisions when they decided to aim the oil pan drain plug straight back. What a mess trying to move the drain pan as it rockets out. Is there a better way to do this? I hear some of the Subaru guys use these Fumoto valves but they don't redirect the direction of flow. It looks like, if it'll fit, the N-type valve would work well, you'd just need a hose that can stand hot oil, and then aim it into your drain pan. Similarly, the oil filter housing causes a little bit of oil spatter when you remove the drain plug from the filter housing before removing the cartridge filter. I did follow the instructions in one how-to article that advised to unscrew the cartridge cap 1-1.5 turns before opening the drain plug. Can you guys give me any advice on draining the oil without creating a huge mess? I also installed a second, low-tone horn while I had the under-tray liner removed. It was still a pain in the rear end since I didn't completely remove the fender liner on the driver side. Instead I just pulled the liner back after removing a few screws to install the second horn and splice into the wire running to the original. I used a cheap Blazer low-tone that I bought from Vatozone for $15. I was also lucky enough to have a bolt that threaded into the mounting location for a second horn. While this was sort of a silly addition, the horn doesn't sound as weak anymore. Next up, when I have the time, I'm replacing the cabin air filter. I'm also thinking about ordering the Weathertech DigitalFit floor mats. Have any of you guys used these?
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Apr 11, 2011 06:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:It probably wasn't the safest method, but I made sure to keep out from actually having anything under the car - I can honestly say I don't know of any really good spots to put normal jackstands on this car. I think there are some rubber adapters out there that will let you put them on a pinch weld without obliterating it. I've been searching for a pinch seam adapter for years and haven't found much. There's a company that makes rubber adapters for floor jacks, but no jack stands. I may just jack up one side at a time with two floor jacks and rotate that way. I wouldn't be getting under the car, and I wouldn't plan on leaving it there longer than it takes to swap the wheels. As for the oil pan drain plug-- I don't know. My 240 had a drain plug location that just seemed to be less messy as far as draining was concerned. My tiny mouthed drain pan doesn't help, but the positioning still sucks imo. I'm thinking about going to a track day in early May. Have any of you guys tracked your MS3's? At the very least I would plan on flushing my brake fluid and putting a higher temp fluid in. There's probably a better thread for these questions, but would I also want to consider order a pair of fancier pads and a separate set of front rotors for track use? An oil change would also be in order, I imagine.
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Apr 11, 2011 07:40
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Bovine Delight posted:I have them, they own. My only very small beef is that the passenger side mat will push up a bit over time. Other than that, they're very durable and easy to clean. This is exactly what I wanted to hear. I'm going to order them today.
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Apr 11, 2011 22:03
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Bovine Delight posted:Ordered some Fram Freshbreeze cabin air filters today, have a feeling this is going to be an time consuming nightmare this weekend. Please report back on your experience. I picked up a replacement filter from the dealership a few weeks ago, but I haven't had the time to dive into replacing it. I was going to follow this youtube walkthrough-- unless there's some info in the FSM that is pertinent to it, that this guy doesn't cover: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKhVXslh6Is
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Apr 13, 2011 06:08
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Bovine Delight posted:I just finished putting it in. I didn't take out the glove compartment, and I think honestly it's a bit excessive. If you've got big hands or are generally big, you might want to do it to give yourself some more room. I'm skinny with small hands, and I was able to work in there just fine with the glove box in. Cool! How long do you think it took you to do? I probably won't have time to try it for another week or two.  I did install my DigitalFit floormats earlier today. I haven't driven with them in yet, but they do appear to fit well. So far I'm pleased with them.
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Apr 18, 2011 07:25
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Here's a shot of my DigitalFit floormats. I couldn't get a shot of the rear with my cellphone camera because the lighting wasn't so great. Fit seems pretty good. The rear's were a little creased from being folded up in the box, but some massaging got them to fit really well. 
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Apr 19, 2011 05:42
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It's black mica and it's impossible to keep clean. I can't wait until I'm out of school and can get a place with a garage.
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Apr 19, 2011 06:13
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I've always kept a fire extinguisher in my cars. With my 240 it was easy just to leave it on the floor of the back behind one of the seats and it didn't move around, but there's not a similar place to put one in the MS3. Have any of you guys considered doing this? If so, how do you mount it or keep it in place? I've found a few sites that sell mounts that attach the fire extinguisher to the seat/seat rails and so the extinguisher sits a little forward and below of the passenger seat and doesn't impede the movement of the seat. These sites are mostly selling them for Porsches and Miatas. Though, this guy does sell a universal mount. Here's one example:  Thoughts? I get nervous laughs from friends who see the extinguisher, but I would rather have one available if I ever really need it.
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Apr 21, 2011 01:59
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air- posted:How much did they run you if you don't mind me asking? There's a dealer here that gives discounts on OEM parts, so I might spring for the All-Weather ones, but I wouldn't mind picking those up if they cost less. They were pretty pricey at $187, after shipping. ($169+ $18 shipping) I ordered them directly from Weathertech's website and I was not able to find any coupon codes. There are some dealers on Amazon that you can purchase from, but the price was marked up so that it cost just as much to order from that seller. I don't recall if I could've used Amazon Prime or not, but I decided it wasn't really worth it. I justified the cost in that I really hate getting my car filthy, these seem easy to clean, and they isolate the footwells pretty well. I had also won and sold a pair of NASCAR tickets for a race a few weekends ago that ate the majority of the cost. If you can justify the cost, I'd go for it.
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Apr 21, 2011 02:12
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. I've been going to the local monthly Cobb meets and met a guy with a Gen2 who has an AP. His is stock and he runs whatever the "stage 1" flash is. He says it increased power, and, apparently, his exhaust isn't as sooty anymore. (Does Stage 1 lean out the mixture or just crank up the boost or something?) Edit: Can anyone answer my fire extinguisher mounting question? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 03:38
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I think the passenger side Bose speaker in my 09 MS3 is blown. The car should still be under the bumper to bumper warranty. (15k miles, purchased in June of 2010, I think.) Have any of you guys had problems with the sound system in the GT trim? It sounds like there's cellophane or something crinkly/rattling in the speaker when I play something that has some bass content to it. I have receipts from the previous owner, and I know he had the head unit reflashed or replaced due to some TSB/recall, but there was no mention about the speaker. I just need to find some time to call up the dealer, and figure out what music best causes that problem.
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May 18, 2011 06:04
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Well, motivation to take it to the dealership. I cranked it up as I was leaving work and the CEL came on and stayed on. :/ I dropped it off at the dealership on the way home. Hopefully, it's no big deal and they'll get me a new speaker while they're at it.
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May 19, 2011 00:58
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I got the car back this morning. The CEL was for P0455 "Gross Evap Leak". There's apparently a TSB, 01-020/10 for this. The first solution is to clear the code and replace the gas tank cap with some newer, revised model. So that's what they did. If it comes back on, according to this thread, they'll replace the purge solenoid valve. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. They also agreed that my passenger side front speaker was blown, but since it's a Bose speaker they had to order from the parts warehouse. I love having a car that's still under warranty. While I was at the dealership I also picked up an air filter that I'll replace when I get up the courage to also do my cabin air filter. The only real downside to this process is that the tech that must have been sitting in my car to read the CEL was a big smoker, and now the car sort of smells. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:00 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 01:56
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Bovine Delight posted:For the smell, get some Ozium. I forget if you said earlier-- Are you reading codes with a Cobb AP or some other tool?
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May 20, 2011 03:07
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I have averaged ~24 mpg since I've owned my car. But I mostly stay out of boost and stick it in cruise control. This is partly because my commutes to work are short enough that I want to make sure I don't beat on it until the oil's up to temperature. On a drive from Austin to Dallas going somewhere around 70 with CC on the entire way I got 30 mpg. But this was with very little traffic and not much passing. On the drive back I got ~27 (lots of traffic, lots of passing, etc.). These are all calculated by clearing my trip odometer at each fill up and then dividing by the number of gallons purchased. I think the computer consistently reads maybe 2 MPG high. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 17:01 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 16:57
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I guess ignorance is bliss. Coming from a 240sx I get about the same mileage and I have way more horsepower/torque AND I have a trunk and usable back seats. The only difference is that I now have to buy premium fuel, and it's not RWD. After being stuck in a hurricane evacuation for 18 hours in a manual I can say that I now absolutely hate stop and go traffic, so if I lived in LA-- maybe I'd buy something with a DSG. I have been stuck in LA traffic in a manual transmission car, and the entire time I wish I had had a motorcycle so I could just lane split. The fact that the HOV lanes were getting clogged up and stopped by Priuses with no passengers and a sticker was the worst part. Aside:  But honestly I guess I've just gotten used to driving a stick in all sorts of traffic. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:19 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 02:17
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Is this relevant to the first gen Speed3s? I really would like to be able to control my ipod with the steering wheel controls instead of fumbling with it sitting in the cup holder/passenger seat.
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Jun 9, 2011 08:23
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CharlesM posted:There are a few hidden test options and settings like that. Actually, on the '06 3, it is possible to enable the "trip computer" function on all models instead of just on the Grand Touring. You can't post things like this without providing a source/instructions/etc.
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Jun 10, 2011 03:37
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I replaced my cabin air filter today using the walkthrough that was linked to a little earlier in this thread. It wasn't too bad-- only took about an hour to an hour and a half. The worst part was definitely contorting my self down into the foot well to try and see into the little port hole where the filters sit to clean it out and get the new filters in.
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Jun 12, 2011 03:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Doubleposting for two reasons: Re (1): Not that I have any plans of doing it for a long long while, but aside from needing tiny Japanese hands, how difficult or complicated is it? I briefly went searching for a writeup on it a while back, and the packaging looks seriously cramped. Do you have to remove an engine mount or lift the engine at all? Other maintenance: Have any of you all change your transmission/diff/transaxle oil yet? Does Mazda recommend a particular type or does the MZR community have a preference?
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Jun 28, 2011 07:55
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Cool. Thanks for the 'walkthrough'. I foresee some bloody knuckles and cursing when that time comes. I've just hit 17k. I may consider doing the gear oil just for piece of mind since I'm fairly certain the PO didn't touch it in the 12k miles he owned it.
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Jun 29, 2011 05:34
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