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After close to 28k miles on my car, its time to replace the stock RE050As with something cheaper. I've been comparing the RE760s and the Hankook Ventus V12 EVO. I think I finally decided to just get the Hankooks, despite their softer sidewall. Does anyone have either of these two tires or have opinions about either? I'm in the mid-south, so snow isn't (too much of) a concern for me and I don't want to buy tires that will wear out in 10-15k miles (RE-11s, I'm looking at you...but god they're sexy) and cost me close to $1k to buy. It is my daily driver (and only car..) so take that into consideration. To contribute: I also use 5w-30 PP for my oil. Been changing it at first at 3k, Blackstone said go 6k so I went 5k and they said go 7500. I'm changing it this weekend at 7k. I just feel weird letting it go this long (mileage-wise.) 
Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Nov 9, 2010 |
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Nov 9, 2010 06:53
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 10:28 |
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For those with the Hankook Ventus V12s: what psi do you run your tires at? I've heard if you run them a little higher over stock recommendation, it helps with the sidewall? Any truth?
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Nov 10, 2010 03:14
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GoblinBomb posted:They are so stupidly expensive, I don't know why Mazda used them. Every single tire that was on my list of replacements was cheaper including the RE-11 (215/45). The tires I went with feel better in just about every category except noise as well, while being ~$60 cheaper per corner. Crazy. Where are you seeing RE-11s cheaper? Tire rack has RE050As at $218 and RE11s at $243 - that's $25 more per tire. 
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Nov 10, 2010 14:25
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GoblinBomb posted:Not sure if these links will work but: Ah, that's why; yours are 17 in, mine are 18s. RE-11 in 18" Oh how I wish I had cheap tires. 
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Nov 13, 2010 06:22
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of oil out of it after a dyno day. Is anybody else installing these?
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Got my Hankooks put on yesterday, along with an alignment (just in case) and put nitrogen in the tires. So far they seem pretty good compared to the stock Potenza's. I'm apparently one of the few that actually didn't mind them, so now that I have the Hankooks on the car feels a little quicker(?) on turns. It definitely feels better going over bumps, but that could just be cause the Bridgestones were just old. It's funny to have traction back though; but now I just have wheel hop instead of spinning my tires. 
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Nov 27, 2010 18:52
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Bovine Delight posted:Install TRZ rear motor mount, wheel hop problem solved. Yea I've heard good things about the TRZ, CP-E and the damned street unit mount. Albeit, I've also heard of the latter two failing and I'm not a CP-E fanboy so I was leaning more towards the SU mount. Any inputs on this? I want the new mount to be as close to stock feel as possible, I'm not a race driver, I don't track the car. I just drive like a jackass from time to time.
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Nov 29, 2010 04:00
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Kynetx posted:I keep forgetting to post about the tires I got. I managed to get 40k out of the stock RE050's. Baffles the poo poo out of me reading about guys getting 10k or less out of them because I don't drive gently. Hey high mileage RE050 buddy  I got just around 29k outta my stock RE050s and I thought there were fairly decent - I never hydroplaned or anything.They had a good feel to the car. Worth the $215 that tirerack wants each? Nah. I got the Hankook V12s for almost half the cost. 
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Dec 10, 2010 14:27
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I refuse to buy a car with pretty much any modification since it is a near guarantee it has been pounded on. Is the GT a better choice over the Sport trim? What should I look for mechanically? I know about letting it idle for a bit, and then going to see if it smokes, and have heard things about the rear diff mount having issues with people that do hard launches on the cars. Thanks goons! I can't answer all your questions, but I can advise this. Look for someone that is fanatical (almost obsessive) about maintaining their car. My car is modified (lightly - just an SRI) but I'm far from beating my car. If anything, I drive it fairly light. Then again, if the car was fully bolted...Walk off. v v
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Dec 19, 2010 21:23
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Put on Cobb's turbo inlet yesterday. Getting the stock piece off is a pain in the rear end. I'm overly careful though, so YMMV. Expect a few cuts though. One question though - after taking the stock inlet off, there was a silicone boot on the turbo where it was clamped. There were no instructions on leaving it on/off so I took it off for the Cobb piece. Please tell me that's right. 
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Jan 30, 2011 16:41
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MetaJew posted:and at a certain angle you might also think that it's the metro gray color. Honestly I thought it was metro gray.
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Feb 1, 2011 06:07
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opengl128 posted:Everyone knows metro gray is the best. I love how it changes color depending on the light. Hey MGM buddy.   Don't have any pics of mine to share cause my drive crashed.. but its not like you don't know what the car looks like. Just add tint and *bam* - my car. Edit: I have Hankook Ventus V12s on after my RE050s made it 29k. Almost have 5k miles on them and they've been through rain, ice, snow and dry. Very stable and predictable in my eyes. I like 'em quite a bit.
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Feb 8, 2011 01:15
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So back in August or September, I installed the Cobb SRI, and in January their turbo inlet. Now I'm getting the bug for an AccessPort. Has anyone on here used one? My car is my daily driver and I baby it. I have a few quick jaunts here and there and drive like a jackass every so often, but its far from a race car. What would you guys recommend? Hold off or just go for it? I'm nearing 32,500 miles, so if I do go for it I'll most likely wait until 36k for warranty to go out. Being that the SRI and TI are my only mods, is there a better recommended one at this time? I'd like a DP at some point, but I fear turbo issues with it and the install. I've never done one and don't want to put my car out of commission any longer than need be because I stripped my tinfoil-threaded O2 sensors.. Not to mention the "just in case" mod that goes with the DP - the fuel pump. And plugs. And (potential) tune. I know RMM is another option but I'm torn on which to choose. I don't know if I like CP-E or not and SU's mount apparently falls apart after so long. Any thoughts or opinions?
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Feb 10, 2011 04:03
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air- posted:I have the 80 duro AWR RMM, and I think there's even a 94 durometer one now. 94? Yeesh, would you still have teeth in after idle? Unless my thoughts and knowledge on RMM duro is way off; I thought 60 was a typical street use mount? Also, wouldn't putting a stiffer RMM on cause more stress on side mounts? Anyone confirm this - with torn side mounts or whatever?
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Feb 11, 2011 01:06
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What do you guys think about changing the plugs - on a maintenance standpoint. I've just hit 32,500 miles and I've always changed plugs around every 30k. (Granted I never bought a new car before either, so..) Any thoughts?
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Feb 12, 2011 16:06
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I'm almost to 33k now on my MS3. What kind of maintenance do you guys recommend? I'm assuming flushing the following: trans fluid, brake fluid (maybe?) and coolant(maybe?). Anything else I should keep a look at or change out?
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Feb 20, 2011 21:18
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Guys, I've got the mod bug but I'm not sure which direction to go now. It's my daily driver with 33,7xx on it and a Cobb SRI and TIP. Input and suggestions? Downpipe, fuel pump, AP (w/ cold plugs), RMM..? If I did a test pipe instead of a dp, would the gains still be significant or is it best to just spend the extra cash and go dp?
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Mar 19, 2011 23:27
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air- posted:Rear motor mount is one of the best mods for a daily driver, along with Cobb's/CPE's shifter weight. What exactly makes the shifter weight worth it? I'm kind of ignorant on that part. Edit: I quit being lazy and read Cobb's page: Improved shift feel and stays in gear during driving. Is gear pop that common for people? It never happens to me unless I just gently caress up shifting. Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Mar 19, 2011 |
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Mar 19, 2011 23:34
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Does it clean up that "notchy" feel when shifting? Or is that more on trans fluid?
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Mar 19, 2011 23:37
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Yea, I've heard of the jbarone stuff - just never looked at it. Seems like nice quality!
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Mar 19, 2011 23:56
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Yea, after the 08.5 model launched, they became 6 disc and mp3 compatible. Not sure about regular 3's but I know the MS3's are.
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Apr 4, 2011 03:33
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Are colder plugs required for an AccessPort? I believe I'm only at a Stage 1 if I did flash (93 octane, intake+inlet; all stock otherwise) As stated earlier, a downpipe would probably come after the AP at some point. So would the cold plugs be better early on or once I decide to get tuned?
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Apr 5, 2011 13:35
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CharlesM posted:Actually my 2006 has 6CD + MP3/WMA. I installed that one from the OEM accessory catalog, stock it came with a single CD audio only. 2004-2005 there was a single CD MP3 player, or 6CD CD Audio only. It's kinda confusing really, there may be more varieties of course. I had an 04 MZ3 that was a 6 disc, but no MP3 - you are right in that aspect. I'm not sure about pre-08.5 MS3's though.
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Apr 5, 2011 23:56
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SynMoo posted:I really don't find the torque steer bad. Yeah, I'm putting some muscle into keeping the car straight sometimes, but that's part of the fun, right? It's never been so bad I've lost control or had to let off because I'm not strong enough to hold the line. This. I don't think it's all that bad. This is my most powerful car I've owned and it isn't that nuts. I'd say the kick in the rear end from acceleration is stronger than the wheel bending outta my hands.
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Apr 14, 2011 13:36
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SynMoo posted:I'm going to take some in car video today of the 2010+ MS3's torque steer in a large parking lot. Maybe someone with a Gen1 could do the same? Would be interesting to compare. Jeremy Clarkson did this while reviewing either a Speed3 or Speed6, can't remember. He's driving on their lot, mentions he's going to floor it and takes his hand off the wheel. You then get to see him lose his nerve shortly after and grab the steering wheel back. I thought I saw it on youtube but right now all I can find is idiots pretending to be him. If I can find a willing
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Apr 14, 2011 23:50
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Bovine Delight posted:He does it when he reviews the Focus RS, I don't think I've ever seen a MPS on Top Gear. It may have been the RS - I recall he was testing 3 hatches. A beefed STi, the RS and a Volvo with 400hp fwd right? IOwnCalculus posted:They had the Mazda6 MPS on Top Gear, but it wasn't the main focus of the review. They did laugh at how badly it trounced the equivalently-priced BMW 3er and I think it was actually the quickest of the bunch around the track, but I can't remember for the life of me what the other cars they tested with it were. This is true - because they had their little chart to show how much better priced, acceleration, etc. the MS6 had compared to the 3 series. They also showed some pretty nice sideways action with the car, if I recall correctly.
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Apr 15, 2011 06:09
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Anyone know about colder plugs being required for an AccessPort? I keep reading mixed opinions and it's making my paranoid rear end go nuts. 
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Apr 18, 2011 05:48
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Well, I awoke this morning to find a confirmation email. I apparently ordered my AccessPort last night. Dunno when I'll get it, but I'm sure it will be by next week at the latest. Any tips I should know beforehand? Like update firmware or something?
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Apr 21, 2011 04:44
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. FedEx got it to me last night, so today is the day. I'll let you know how it goes. Edit: Looking over Cobb's page, the 2010 Speeds get more maps and better results from going Stage 1. I'm running the intake and inlet and there is no map for that for the 07-09s. There is for the '10 though <  > Guess I'll just run Stage 1+ for 93 and see how it goes.
Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 24, 2011 |
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Apr 24, 2011 15:32
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. Flashed it to Stage 1+ this evening. Car pulls a lot smoother now; not that it was rough before but it feels more...linear? I can now squeal my tires in 2nd gear (rather than chirp) but I won't say that it makes the car a monster with these mods and flash. I'd say it..makes the monster more consistently evil. Is it worth the $595? Yea, due to the cost behind the R&D that went into it and the future ability to your car for new maps etc. Are you going to stop modding after the intake, tip? Then it may not be worth it. My first impression is part of me*** is slightly let down. I spent $600 for it to even out my ECU and in order to get more results, I have to go Stage 2 which requires the fuel pump ($600-something from CP-E) and the downpipe ($695 from Cobb) However, the car feels like it puts on speed ridiculously fast now. Hitting 50 in 2nd is a breeze and happens sooner than you expect. ***Part of me = I'm overly analytical and read too deep into words from people. I didn't take into consideration when buying the AccessPort that it wouldn't be an all balls out four door rocket with my mods or right off the bat. The car, when driven normally and not at WOT, feels just like it did before. That I'm glad of - it almost seems to have a Jekyll and Hyde persona; calm when you want and vicious when you stomp on it. Overall - I'd say go for it. If anything, you'll learn something more about your car. And hell, if you don't like it - AP's sell for good money and you'll recoup most of your cost.
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Apr 25, 2011 06:39
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. ~200 Miles later update: Car is civil and drives normally. When you stomp on it though, it pulls very hard up to redline. I don't take it that far, but at 6k it still felt like it was going somewhere. My opinion, if its worth anything, is buy it. Also don't read my edit. Edit: Anyone else have an AP? If I accelerate hard (not WOT) does it seem like it sometimes stutters or struggles sometimes? It's a random intervals, so I can't pinpoint when it happens. I've datalogged and my fuel pressure was ok I think. It ranged from 400 (very low speeds/idle) up to 1700 so I don't think that is the cause. Any thoughts? Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 13:36 on May 11, 2011 |
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May 11, 2011 13:23
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Bovine Delight posted:Quick question - what kind of MPG are you guys getting? My commute is almost all highway and I'm struggling to hit more than 24mpg. Tires at 36psi, CAI filter is fine, averaging around 65mph. I live in TN, my commute to work and such is probably 30% city, 70% hwy. Before AP, with Cobb SRI and TIP: I was getting consistently 21.3-22.8 After AP Stage 1+ 93 octane, same mods: 24.0-25.7 (buy the AP already) Best mileage so far (long highway drive): 28.8 I think? Got 377 miles on a tank, with ~13 gallons
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May 20, 2011 13:29
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Has anyone upgraded the downpipe with an AP yet? According to Cobb, to run Stage 2, an upgraded fuel pump is required for the maps and downpipe. I'm not sure if I want to go with CP-E's upgraded pump or try the internals upgrade. Given I don't want to trust the fuel delivery of my daily driver to my shaky hands, I'll probably go with the whole upgraded pump. But I have to admit I have a stupid question... where's our fuel pump; in the gas tank? I tried finding a how-to for changing it out, but didn't see any write ups. Any ideas guys?
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Jul 5, 2011 13:17
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Until I flashed with the AP, I was getting around 21-23 mpg with 70% hwy, 30% city. Long trips (~6 hour drives, a full tank) would net around 28 mpg. After flashing with the AP, I'm averaging 24 mpg in 70/30 hwy/city. I drove about an hour north on a stop and go state hwy and got back 27mpg that tank. So, it's not all bad.
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Jul 8, 2011 13:30
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So I ended up buying Cobb's downpipe last night. From what I've read, the fuel pump is strongly recommended by Cobb for the downpipe but I think I've seen people running an intake and dp with no problem. Is this true? Which map should I use with my AP? I've only got an intake and TIP, but as stated I'll be adding the downpipe shortly.
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Aug 6, 2011 17:12
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Frosty- posted:Get a fuel pump or internals. I recently swapped to PTP internals in my pump and they perform much better than the stock parts. Nobody is going to recommend PTP to you, though, because of the way bad blood can quickly build up among people on the internet. Yea, CP-E's pump is what I've been spying for about two months now. It's just hard to drop a figurative ~$950 up front  Is there a walkthrough/how-to posted somewhere on how to do this install?Frosty- posted:With a downpipe: Stage 2; Without a downpipe: Stage 1. That's the basic rule right there. That's what I was thinking as well. I'm already running Stage 1, but I think I read somewhere there's like a Stage 2 safe mode for downpipes but no pump..? Naturally I can't find where I read that now, so I'm sure I either made it up in a drunken stupor or reading about the copious amount of 2010+ maps there are compared to my 08 maps
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Aug 7, 2011 15:43
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I was afraid someone would say that  Guess I have to justify buying the pump now, less my downpipe becomes a temporary doorstop (Don't worry - that won't happen)
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Aug 8, 2011 00:52
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I hate to continue bringing up this dead topic, but I just want to know everything.. So I apologize in advance.. I've contacted a few vendors for getting the fuel pump so I can install my downpipe, but the pumps are a few weeks out. Could I just unmarry my AP and install the downpipe without fear of blowing up? Or should I just be patient and wait? Again, current mods are intake, tip and AP with a pending dp.
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Aug 11, 2011 00:23
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So I bit the bullet anyways and got the fuel pump. So now I'll be running Stage 2+ once I get the pump and downpipe on. Should I consider colder plugs?
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Aug 18, 2011 20:38
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Do you think it is something that requires immediate attention/upgrading? Or just keep in mind my stock ones may not hold up much longer?
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Aug 19, 2011 05:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Edit: A thing showed up at my door today. Only $550 shipped from THMotorsports' group buy on mazda3forums. If nobody else has bought since I did, they should have at least one left at this price. I'm mostly suspension ignorant - are those Koni Yellows? Or is FSD another kind? What kind of springs are you going to be using with them?
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Aug 21, 2011 23:12
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