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IOwnCalculus posted:Double posting in The Slowest Megathread. Was your airbag the one in the dash? Mine just turned on last week and was on for about 6 days, then randomly just shut off. 
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Oct 26, 2012 14:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, the dash light. If I get time this weekend I'll poke around and see if I can find where they repaired it - apparently it's not uncommon to damage this wire if you move the seat back and forth a lot, and my wife and I alternate between having the seat all the way back and nearly all the way forward That's funny you say that because I think (not sure..) my light went off when I laid my seat all the way down one day. I don't recall seeing it after that until I noticed it was off. Maybe a clip came loose..? I have the rear mm from CP-e in 75mm. I'm *insanely* picky about vibrations - as in, "oh god what's wrong withmycarwhysitdoingthat" ... 75mm is 100% fine to have. And oh god the power to the ground after is awesome.
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Oct 26, 2012 16:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:What's the cheapest option out there, the Accessport? AP is $595 through StreetUnit or Edge Autosport. For something like an AP, I'd buy new so that I wouldn't run the risk of someone shady. Especially if they don't un-marry it from their car.
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Nov 3, 2012 15:07
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Turd Nelson posted:I have another question - If i got a cold-air intake for my 2008 non-speed 3i, would i feel noticeable difference in acceleration or mpg? Are they difficult to install for a person who isn't terribly car-literate? If you can differentiate between what a screwdriver, ratchet and socket are you should be fine. It's seriously not that difficult and doing so will make you learn things! As far as power in a non-speed, I'd say doubtful. It might give you a tick or two in mpg but I may be wrong.
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Dec 26, 2012 02:56
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A HID housing ("the headlight") costs around $800 from the dealer. I found that out through insurance..  ninjaedit: for a speed
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Dec 28, 2012 14:30
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Well I officially joined the smoking exhaust club. I went to pick up my girlfriend at her place, was idling outside and smelled something burning. Looked in my driver mirror and saw a huge plume of blue smoke behind my car.  Car still runs and drives ok, the smoke went away after a few seconds. That was yesterday afternoon. Was idling outside my apartment waiting for someone to figure out how to open a gate and it happened again this evening.So, twice in two days. Is this a death sentence for the turbo or should I not be concerned until it's always smoking? The problem being it's cold out now so my exhaust is always puffing. :/ What my options in regards to fixing the situation? My service advisor and I had already talked about before I started modding and he said they don't technically care, but when it comes to corporate I have to be 100% stock. So.. returning to stock with only 4500 miles left in my turbo warranty (I'm at 65,5xx now) isn't appealing. Plus I don't have that kind of time on my hands. I know they do the 5w-40 switch, then maybe the PCV/head switch and then they might do the turbo.. Are there good aftermarket replacements that are suitable bolt-ons? I'm fully bolted and don't forsee going much higher hp than what I have, except maybe a custom tune from Cobb so the new turbo doesn't have to be crazy; just something that works easily.
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Dec 31, 2012 03:06
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SiB posted:Well it should be 5w30 not 5w40. Ventilation kit works half the time so far, i've installed probably 20. Oh, good then. I'm already running Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. Do vent kits work with Cobb's SRI and TIP? IOwnCalculus posted:I think at this point the seals are damaged. What mods do you have that you'd need to undo? I know there's a much higher incidence of smoking turbos with modified exhausts but realistically those don't actually cause the problem. SRI, TIP, tmic, HFFP, Stage 2+ AP, Downpipe, BPV, RMM, shift weight, colder plugs (not changing that, because 'duh..) Edit: Has anyone used these guys? From what I gathered, $450 for a replacement turbo and two year warranty http://tinyurl.com/ac8a7wk Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Dec 31, 2012 |
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Dec 31, 2012 18:45
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SiB posted:Have a look at these photos to figure out if its compatible with the SRI and TIP. Hmm.. They're both Cobb parts, so it seems I could .. wait, poo poo.. If my TIP is aftermarket, I can't use it. Right?
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Dec 31, 2012 20:42
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SynMoo posted:If I were you I wouldn't bother with the vent kit. You've probably got a blown seal. Either go stock or look for a turbo. If the problem is caused by the improper venting, wouldn't the same thing technically happen again to a new turbo? I'm slightly ignorant on that aspect, admittedly.
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Jan 2, 2013 06:52
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VacaGrande posted:Dunno if this fits the thread exactly, but how's the long-term reliability of the n/a 1st gen Mazda6 4-cyl? Is it better to go with the V6? I'm thinking of getting a weekend car for bike trips and the 6 wagon fits the bill (is a wagon, has a manual transmission), but everything I'm looking at is getting on in years. I have a buddy with a 4-cly 6, and it's held up well mechanically. He's got over 120k on it now I believe and has only had minor maintenance required.
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Jan 2, 2013 06:53
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SynMoo posted:The cause isn't necessarily improper PCV. This kit has been around for awhile it was never made standard. When they replaced my turbo they didn't do a vent kit. Of course they may not have done it because they expect this turbo to make it past 60k where it won't be their problem anymore. So if my turbo completely fails, will it do any damage to my engine other than lack of power? Can I just get a new turbo to replace the failing one and have my problems solved? If so, what is a good factory replacement? I'm not looking for superior power, just something good that can handle the amount of mods I have.
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Jan 13, 2013 07:39
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fixed words.
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Sir Cornelius posted:Depends on what fails. Seals? On the inlet side or the exhaust side? I dunno. It only smokes randomly right now for about ~30 seconds, so I'm not sure which part is failing to cause that. Few days later edit: took it into Mazda just on the off chance they'd fix it under warranty (I have 5k left before hitting 70k for the turbo extension) Long story short, he said since it isn't smoking all the time, it's a ventilation issue and not my turbo. If they do the vent kit, I'll have to use their new TIP - what will this do to what maps I can run on my AP? Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 15, 2013 00:51
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Are Hotchkis and Cobb sway bars the same thing?
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Jan 30, 2013 14:20
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Captain Cannabis posted:A little less than 42k. I was very surprised, especially since I started looking around on the net, I was guessing 15k at best. Your poor car. I'm sorry to see it go so soon.
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Feb 8, 2013 05:43
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SynMoo posted:So plenty of talk about oil in this thread (PP or T6, even though it says diesel on it??) I use PP and Blackstone gives me nothing short of awesome reports. I have an 08.5 with 71,6xx on it. I use OEM filters, change both o rings every change and think I've changed the crush washer once. opengl128 posted:Speaking of which, is there anything I should do or attempt to have done before it expires? 08.5 MS3. Unfortunately I don't put a huge amount of miles on it, only at 37K now, so I feel like I won't encounter an engine issue I may have if I drove more, like a smoking turbo. I'm hitting the 5 years well before the 60K miles. I had the PCV/valve cover fix right at 69,8xx because I was intermittently smoking. So far that's been fine. Had my idler pulley replaced under warranty because it was making noise with AC. Near 70k I did my coolant, brake, and trans fluids. I asked my service guy if there was anything else and he said nope.
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Apr 13, 2013 00:09
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Anyone upgraded the sway bars? I'm considering Cobb's but want to know if they're worth the money (in general and Cobb..)
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Apr 28, 2013 19:38
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Well, my car started smoking again despite Mazda's PCV fix.
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May 25, 2013 23:00
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Bovril Delight posted:What's the red thing on the front? Looks like a reflection.
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May 26, 2013 17:14
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air- posted:Also Hankook Ventus V12 and if you're on a budget, Kumho Ecsta SPT's. I had the V12 and they were originally real good, but once they started wearing down water traction in rain was slightly higher than horrifying. I have Potenza 970s now and haven't had an issue yet with 20k on 'em.
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Jun 1, 2013 19:05
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Well, after 75k miles I finally joined the broken intake bracket club. I even got the new bushings from Cobb that said it wouldn't break. Any thoughts on what to do to keep this from screwing up my MAF sensor?
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Jun 18, 2013 05:32
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SynMoo posted:What's the story with people blowing rods in the past? Fully bolted and going WOT before 3k or what? I've got both and you don't make much/any power before 3k anyway. If you properly downshift, you'll have plenty of power at all times. I've been running mine for over a year now with no issues - save for a smoking turbo but that went away with the PCV fix. Also - my intake bracket broke as I mentioned earlier. Would it be wise to get an airbox like Cobb's or whatever to stabilize it so it doesn't shake my MAF to death? Right now I just have it zip tied to the original airbox ...hole below the intake.
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Jul 19, 2013 04:25
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**I am no affiliated with Edge Autosport or any other company car related I just think it's a good deal** For anyone interested in Koni yellows, they're on sale now with EdgeAutosport. http://www.edgeautosport.com/koni-sport-yellow-shock-front-left-mazdaspeed-3/ Since they're practically half-off, I'm tempted to get a set since I'm at 76k already and counting. My question is are they a harsher ride than stock is?
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Jul 20, 2013 15:13
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I'm nearing 92,000 miles and my suspension is creaking and groaning over every bump and grind. Plus my driver's rear is sagging a little (7mm) lower than the right. I travel a ton for work (almost 24k miles last year) and would like a softer ride. What combination springs/shocks would you guys recommend? I'm not incredibly keen on lowering it either as I already scrape enough as it is.
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Feb 23, 2014 17:22
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air- posted:MSF has a laundry list of what check when you've got suspension clunk, I'd have to search again I'm not posting from a phone. I've been reading since I posted last and it just sounds like my shocks are worn out. At this moment, it seems like I'll go for Koni FSDs with my stock springs for now. If it comes to it, it says Eibach springs work with them so I'd snag the endlinks as well. Past that - I'm suspension ignorant. I know to get an alignment after I put them on. What else should I take note of?
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Feb 23, 2014 18:25
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