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kid sinister posted:Also, I don't know if they ever fixed it, but surge protectors from over 6 years ago that claimed to protect ethernet cables only protected pairs 2 and 3, while 1 and 4 weren't even connected inside. That means they effectively blocked gigabit ethernet. CSMA/CD is basically a thing of the past with switches. Most will connect at 1gig on 2 pairs of cat3 even if they aren't supposed to work since most runs are well below the 100 meter limit. You won't get reliable POE at the higher currents if that is a concern, notably if you have a high frequency ballast within eyeshot. 1000Base-TX removed the need for pairs 3 and 4.
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Aug 25, 2016 05:04
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H110Hawk posted:CSMA/CD is basically a thing of the past with switches. Most will connect at 1gig on 2 pairs of cat3 even if they aren't supposed to work since most runs are well below the 100 meter limit. You won't get reliable POE at the higher currents if that is a concern, notably if you have a high frequency ballast within eyeshot. 1000Base-TX removed the need for pairs 3 and 4. Look at this rear end in a top hat, he's wrong on the internet. wolrah posted:True, but I'm curious why you brought this up in a response on the subject of ethernet cable pairs. Fair enough. Oops.
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Aug 26, 2016 01:13
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wolrah posted:Not trying to be a dick, just wanted to make sure no one assumed their old two-pair capable surge protector would work with their gigabit interface unless they actually happened to have a 1000Base-TX setup. The similar naming and the fact that 100Mbit was TX has led to a lot of mislabeled hardware on the internet claiming 1000Base-TX on 1000Base-T gear. I'm honestly not sure 1000Base-TX actually existed in a mainstream product. It was a joke, and I completely agree. I lurned something I'm going to reforget in a year. I am not afraid of being corrected on the internet. It's a common occurrence. The last time I was taught about ethernet those pairs were used for those function. I'm looking forward to the 2.5ghz base bands coming out. 2.5x the speed on the same cables!
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Aug 26, 2016 05:28
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n0tqu1tesane posted:A lot of woodworkers use something similar to keep the dust down. Do I place this near work sites, "around the house" where I want dust not to be, or "yes" ? Thanks by the way.
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Aug 27, 2016 19:15
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Bought NordicPure 20x20x1 Pleated Air Filters [MERV 8] Qty 12 + 3 of those fans. Plaster dust beef jerky here I come. I resisted buying nordicpure intimate personal lubricant and cookies.
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Aug 28, 2016 23:30
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devicenull posted:Get the 20x20x2 filters next time. More surface area gives you more airflow. Emailed asking if I can swap them out with 2" filters. Edit: Swapped. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 05:20
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n0tqu1tesane posted:
Otteration posted:I have four or five in my garage wood shop. I use cheap masking tape instead of bungee cords to seal better. Use a shop vac to clean filters. Point away from dust source. Motronic posted:Works better with some dehydrator liners to sandwich the meat in. I use the same setup for drying herbs when things get a little out of control in the garden. Don't drink and surf the nordicpure website, you'll wind up with a 12-pack:  There are 3 of those around the house now, sealed with packing tape. Hopefully they are actually filtery enough to get whatever awful plaster dust is floating around. We vac'd the whole house and any piles we could find with our HEPA-filter vacuum first. Bad news: leaded jerky will have to wait, the only room in the house that tested positive we managed to have them not damage any plaster by going in through other walls.
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Sep 8, 2016 03:37
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baquerd posted:Thanks to both of you! Multiple multimeter models are available for like 
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Sep 12, 2016 01:21
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at my local hardware store, just need to pick one up.
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Bad Munki posted:Does anyone know of anywhere I could buy outlets that have indicator lights as to whether or not they're not? This is for a shop where I'll have per-tool circuits, I want an extra layer of safety for when I think a tool is powered down, something like an indicator light at the outlet would be perfect. Of course, being a shop, it'd need to have various amperage and voltage options available. You're looking for industrial controls. Double push button or things like rocker switches, call someone and make sure they can make all the options you need. https://www.e-switch.com/product-catalog/rocker/product-lines/r1966-series-illuminated-rocker-switches#.V92oALVlDMU This one is meant to be used with a relay system I presume, hence the 24V light w/ 600V insulation: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATI-DPB22-2...4MAAOxyeglTcPjC This might be it: http://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/T85-push-button-switch-IP55-dkld_60365039238.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.1V8OEj&s=p
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Sep 17, 2016 21:32
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Super Waffle posted:Question for you guys. I've recently wired up my shed with two 120v 20 amp circuits split up from a single 30 amp 240v line. I have the shop lights on one circuit and my miter saw on another circuit. When I turn my miter saw on the inrush current causes the lights to dim for a moment. I would have expected this if they were on the same circuit, but I am confused as to why this is the case if they are on completely different breakers. Both circuits share a neutral. What would cause this and should I be worried? Wait for the blade to get up to speed before putting load on it. Largely so you can see what you're cutting. Not that my lights do that or anything.
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Sep 18, 2016 04:20
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EvilJoven posted:70 amp fuse panel - already in the works to be replaced If you can afford it I would have a professional take on 4 or 5. Once you start jostling the old wires the insulation is likely to come crumbling off leaving you with what amounts to knob and tube, but without the knobs. At least, that is what's happened in my anecdotal experience in a 1946 house with rubber+cloth insulated wire. A professional will be able to bang out the job in a much shorter period of time, and you will hopefully then have an up to code consistent set of wires in your house, a new panel with room to grow, and more amps of service. A professional will also help you not get dinged for insurance fraud in option 5. Ours starts Oct 3, they estimate the dust settling by Oct 7. 1250 sq ft, including a trench to the garage. $9,300, los angeles county CA, highest rated electrician in the city, and literally our neighbors we came to find out. Their extensively renovated house is gorgeous. Hopefully nothing goes materially wrong because hello feud material.
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Sep 22, 2016 16:15
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So it begins: https://imgur.com/a/PohuN - Hopefully nothing too horrifying. At the beginning of the day he had wired that temp power straight to the service line.
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Oct 4, 2016 02:29
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm planning out circuits for my workshop, and I want to do a quick sanity check: would it make sense to put a switch next to each outlet box that controls power to the outlet? Basic outlets and switches are <$1. They also make switched combo devices, and devices with lights on them. Nothing beats checking your death wheel is actually de-energized before futzing with it though. http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/SectionDisplay.jsp?section=42300&minisite=10251&itemsPerPage=All Edit: I need to remind my Leviton rep he owes me more steak and alcohol. They keep loving up our low voltage stuff in subtle ways that don't present themselves until it's in a foreign country like Ashburn, VA. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Oct 5, 2016 |
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Oct 5, 2016 04:32
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Final inspection on monday for my whole house re-wire. Cross your fingers.
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Oct 7, 2016 19:17
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kid sinister posted:Did you refill all your new wires with as much sparks as the old ones had when they were new? There are so many more sparks now. Bad Munki posted:Gotta be sure to rent a magic smoke injector.  I hope my electrician brought enough magic smoke.
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Oct 7, 2016 20:57
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kid sinister posted:How to they do that by the way? Is the typical pivot bar that you fit the clips on breakers under before you snap them in actually a neutral busbar too? Yeah. The neutral terminals has an extension bar that runs the length of the positions. The breakers are long and snap onto it. The amazon picture illustrates it pretty well.
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Oct 8, 2016 04:49
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H110Hawk posted:Final inspection on monday for my whole house re-wire. Cross your fingers. We passed. It's been great. A+ do recommend. Having the ceiling fans on 2 switches for light/fan is amazing. Having enough electricity or fewer sparks or whatever that our lights don't flicker all the time is even better. Light switches that don't make a loud SNAP when actuated is pleasant. I did just notice by chance that our outlet for the microwave/exhaust/light combo unit is only a 15A still which is obnoxious. Didn't think of it until I saw it lacked the T. Looks like I might save $28/year on my homeowners insurance too! 
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Oct 12, 2016 04:16
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Bad Munki posted:That's awesome. With how anxious I was with the inspector coming out to check the stuff I'd paid a professional to do, I can't imagine how nerve-wracking a whole-home rewire would be. Honestly the inspection didn't make me nervous in the least. Whole lot of not my problem, we had a contract with payment contingent on passing final inspection. Heck, his mother was the one doing the walk through with the city inspector. Once I saw the work underway it seemed to all be correct at an eyeball, I was mostly worried about just how much plaster they were going to knock out to get the wires pulled. Now, when I start fiddling with the garage and my own work, then I will be plenty nervous. I don't have any rapport with the inspector other than whatever tiny amount I gain pouring money into improving a property within the city "by the book."
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Oct 12, 2016 05:22
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EvilJoven posted:Apparently I didn't do a poo poo job because the inspector had no problems with my work. Congrats!
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Oct 14, 2016 21:25
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QuarkJets posted:We have a baby on the way, so I've replaced all of the outlets in my house that are close to the floor with tamper-resistant outlets. Nice and easy. One final wrinkle: we have a power strip on the floor of our living room that we plug a couple of things into (lamp, laptops, phone chargers, etc). But looking all over Amazon, I can't find a good power strip that has tamper-resistant outlets. What gives? I came to post this same question. For not in use outlets do TR outlets count as "baby proof"?
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Oct 16, 2016 01:42
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WeaselWeaz posted:TR outlets are baby proof when not in use. That's why they exist, they have shutters that won't open unless two prongs enter. That's what I thought, wanted to double check. Our baby proofing just got a heck of a lot easier. Only a handful of outlets are in-use and exposed at baby height.
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Oct 16, 2016 04:45
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Tally posted:Not sure this is the right place - feel free to point me somewhere else if it isn't. Transformer rectifier and a fire extinguisher: http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/240v-to-12v-transformer (But do it in the UK.)
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Oct 25, 2016 17:21
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CommieGIR posted:
My hero. 
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Oct 31, 2016 03:02
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One Day Fish Sale posted:I think there are some minimum clearances for lights in closets, but I don't know what they are. I'm just here to say that a pull chain fixture is a pain and not something you should put in new. Doubly so for a pull chain fixture with a receptacle in it. LED light strip + momentary switch that is triggered when you open the door is an amazing thing. Depressed = open (off).
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Nov 4, 2016 19:01
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Slugworth posted:Theoretically the box is grounded, but if not, a non contact voltage meter would do the trick. Get one of these, they are a life saver. Otherwise, can you reach some of your water pipes? Dial 9-1 into your phone, grab the hot + water pipe. You'll know what to do from there.
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Nov 6, 2016 04:44
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devicenull posted:So, I'm soon going to be getting some estimates for a service upgrade. We have 100A service, but our panel currently has some water damage (AC condensate line broke above it, and water was draining into it for years... previous owners didn't do anything about it). Get a solar survey done. They're often free. You can get panels now which are "solar ready." Mid sentence here I got a spam telemarketing call trying to sell me solar. I would go to 200A for just the reasons you mentioned, I did with our 1250 sqft house w/ gas appliances.
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Nov 11, 2016 03:25
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Any idea WTF? Is this just normal for one without a battery backup? I'd never seen an AC powered one without a battery backup, but I looked up the model # on it, and nope.. no place to put a battery (they made a version that did have that provision though). Or should I just go ahead and replace it with one that actually does have a battery backup? It's line voltage, not interconnected to anything, though the building does have a (pull station only) fire alarm. When the place was built, only one was required, AFAIK. The detector itself is right at 10 years old, building is 32 years old. Are you sure it doesn't have a 10 year lifetime lithium battery in it? That is the new hotness (and what I think everyone should install) as detectors only live for 10 years. If there isn't a newer date written on for installation tell them flatly it's an expired detector and your renters insurance is complaining. Which they will once you ask them about it. Otherwise I don't know if they make them with capacitors in them for transient power outages?
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Nov 11, 2016 16:48
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on a new one (I'll be doing that soon anyway, it's old enough to be replaced). I just want to know why the hell it's doing this. I know it's not the building fire alarm shrieking - there's a sounder for it in my hallway near the smoke detector, but that's a very different sound.
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kid sinister posted:What do you mean by "the new one comes with a junction box to go into the under sink cabinet."? In the US, dishwashers are either hard wired, or they have a cord and plug that plugs into and outlet under the sink. I assume it is a hardwire kit. Ours came with both. There is a modular plug in the back of our dishwasher for hooking them up. Our electrician wired a duplex outlet with a dedicated circuit for each thing and put a bar across the breakers so they both flip in tandem.
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Nov 26, 2016 18:47
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You know thinking it through, I am not sure if my dishwasher is GFCI. Which makes me wonder what else they missed rewiring the house. The bid says "Wired to National Eletcric Code" and proper permits were pulled/signed off on by the city. I'll go double check my box when it's not raining, but I seem to recall only 2 "reset" buttons in it for AFCI. I just went and tested all the GFCI's I could find in the kitchen and none of them turned off the dishwasher, or the outlet we use for the toaster for that matter. (Which is far away from the sink, but in the kitchen.) This is what happens when your neighbors are the most highly rated electricians on yelp for your area and actually pick up the phone to bid your job.
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Nov 27, 2016 22:35
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crocodile posted:has your jurisdiction updated to the latest code? that would be the first thing i'd check. the city i live in was on the 2008 code until the 2014 came out and they retroactively accepted the 2011 for like 3 months before the '14...it can get convoluted and it entirely depends on your who your Authority Having Jurisdiction is. their bid may not necessarily be misleading...they could be basing it off the 2005 or whatever code *shrug* Yeah, I will call the city tomorrow.
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Nov 28, 2016 03:49
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insta posted:And that's still the case if I'm using a wall-plug to power it? Plugging and unplugging it like a table lamp when i want light? It's not the plug side that is the issue. You need some kind of weather casing for it. The device itself has to be UL rated for outdoor wet applications. (Direct exposure to rain.) Don't take China's word for it.
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Nov 29, 2016 18:50
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Loopoo posted:It is when it's 50% of the price of the thermostat itself. That's what makes it so difficult forking over the money. Some would argue you spent too much on the thermostat. Would you feel better or worse if you needed a new $40 thermostat and it cost the same $100+ to have someone install it? http://www.zdnet.com/article/nest-to-deliberately-brick-old-smart-hubs/
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Dec 2, 2016 03:12
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This seems cool for our christmas lights: https://smile.amazon.com/Outdoor-Timer-Stake-Pole-Weatherproof/dp/B01H7VXXV2/ Our existing big dial timer doesn't fit in our fancy new outdoor in-use covers so I need a outdoor rated pigtail. Anything I am missing here to use it with something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/MM510C-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B001JEPX4Y/
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Dec 3, 2016 21:29
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kid sinister posted:No, that should be fine. Thanks!
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Dec 3, 2016 22:28
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Trip report: The house has not burned down, the product works as advertised. It turns on when the light sensor is dimmed and shuts off N-hours later. Been installed for 3 nights now.
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Dec 7, 2016 18:33
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Phanatic posted:Probably not a better mousetrap, but looks like high-quality work. Instead of using may-fatal line voltage, put a fluorescent ballast or similar on there and give them a way more likely to be fatal 40kV hit. Edit: Hah! Ready to kill yourself as well? http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-get-100KV-out-of-your-flyback-VERY-SIMPL/ I would put up plastic. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 20:24
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Bad Munki posted:I think I'm doing this right? I don't have cause to use this (ancient) gadget very often. ACA is AC-Amps. You've got it at 20 on a 60amp breaker with a minimum rating (heater sticker) of 46. Click it over to 200 to get in range. Max hold is a good one to be on. They are a little finicky to get the field just right, but you are doing it right to have just the hot wire inside there. http://www.hvacrinfo.com/definitions.htm#rla http://www.hvacrinfo.com/definitions.htm#fla http://www.hvacrinfo.com/definitions.htm#LRA Adding up the low end numbers on your plate it's ~40 amps of juice running, but the "cold start" is upwards of 150. Is there a cold start capacitor in there or something similar? That failing can cause units to fail to start or draw excessive power for longer than "instant" when it kicks on. I'm not too familiar with heat pumps. If you are only seeing ~4 amps once it is running and it's popping probably time to replace the breaker.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:56
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I would just call and ask them to walk you through the worksheet. I'm guessing "Technology Circuits" means a home charging station for a plugin car. At <$1 compared to a regular circuit, and being lumped in with <50V it looks more like thermostats, door bells, and the like. A charging station for a car is one of the highest draw items you can install in a house if it's one of the higher classes.
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Dec 19, 2016 16:11
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I hoped not to be back here so soon after a whole home rewire but here we are with fun discoveries. I am hoping to install a Leviton light controller with magic sunrise/sunset calculator inside it to replace a simple toggle switch. Seems easy enough, Black - power, white - neutral bundle, red - fixture, green - ground bundle, yellow/red - leave. New nuts all around.  The double gang original metal box also has a 3-way dimmer in it. I pulled it all apart and found that the box does not at a glance appear to be grounded (no green ground screw, no wire serving that purpose regardless) and the toggle switch I am replacing has a green ground screw which is not hooked up. It is not to my knowledge self grounding and due to the plaster the metal on the switches doesn't make contact except through their retaining screws. The bare ground wires are crimped together vs nutted which I assume is fine. Box:  Diagram, less ground. The wires are numbered left to right as you see them in the box, cable #3 is to the left and behind of cable #4 on the right. It's hard to see, I promise you it's there.  Is this a fools errand space wise? I wisely did not check prior to buying this switch. Is the box is supposed to be grounded? All 5 grounds are crimped together across two crimps, with one of the wires from the first crimp extending to the second crimp. Fixing the ground means opening up all the rest of my boxes, I'm going to spot check a couple known metal boxes and if they aren't correct I'm going to call our electrician to come out and verify the rest of them while looming over him. God dammit. The blacks are indeed power based on my contactless meter. I ran out of time to do anything else and didn't want to risk it not fitting regardless so I just put it all back how I found it. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Jan 3, 2017 |
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Jan 3, 2017 19:01
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crocodile posted:the box for sure needs grounded, unless those new pieces of romex come down in continuous metal pipes, which it doesn't look like they do. and even then they need to extend to be pigtailed to the switch if it's not self grounding. did your electrician put some sort of bushing around those wires to protect them from the metal edges of the knock-outs? cuz the one on the right with the three pieces of romex in it looks mighty tight. that also looks like a shallow 4-square box and looks to me to be over box fill but i can't be 100% sure from the picture. also curious why there is a piece of 12-2 romex in the mix? usually if one box looks like this then there are probably others like it.. The 12-2 was existing for our ceiling light fixtures based on previous pictures of the attic. I don't necessarily blame him for not re-doing the 12-2 pull. I do not see any bushings. For fill I put in 4x #14, 1x #12, 2 gangs, for the device connection and grounding do I put #12 or #14? http://www.constructionmonkey.com/calculations/electrical/boxfill For the box grounding there is enough sticking past the crimped fitting I believe I can get one of the wires around a green grounding screw in the back of the box. I bought a package of them and some push-on connectors after being corrected by Mstr Sinister regarding the latter. I'll pull open a few other boxes to check them Soon™. Ugh.
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Jan 5, 2017 03:23
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