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I rewired a ton of stuff in my house last year since I was remodeling my basement and had all the walls and celing open. It is not too hard, got myself one of the electical books from Home Depot to learn the basics. If I ever get caught up I'll post some pics and stuff. My father-in-law used to work for Con Edison, the electrical utility of NYC, until he retired. When my wife and I bought our house we replaced some old 2 prong outlets with 3 prong. I walked into the room and he was replacing the outlets and I asked if he wanted me to turn off the circuit breaker. He said "No, this would knock you back but to me it feels like a tickle." Bad rear end.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2009 18:11 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 02:42 |
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grover posted:dumbass is more like it. 120V can still kill you. Sorry I did not mean to make it sound like I'm advocating rushing out to do something like this. The point was that he was a splicer for ConEd working under the streets of Manhattan and was used to a lot more juice than what runs through a house. He had built up a tolerance from 40 years on the job and was not affected by the couple shots of 120V he got from replacing the outlets.
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2009 05:18 |
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So the guys that did my landscaping reconnected the electrical to my detached garage. Since they cut one of the pavers in the wrong spot the PVC pipe and connector into the garage are all cockeyed. I have one pic of what it looks like now and a Photoshop of what I'd like it to look like. How it looks like now: Photoshop corrected: The current transition piece; http://www.lowes.com/pd_75783-223-E...tion&facetInfo= I've dug around for a transition piece with the outlet on the bottom instead of the end but have not had any luck. Any suggestions?
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2013 20:19 |
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kid sinister posted:Either learn to love it, or get your landscapers back out to fix the pavers. You're forgetting that there are cables inside that PVC and fitting. In order to swap out that PVC and fitting, you would need to flip the breaker to your garage, find the box inside where that UF transitions to NM, detach them, work that UF back out where it comes in the wall, pull that old conduit and fitting off the NM, put a new one on, then put everything back together. Thanks for the advice, I have a Grainger in town the sells the Arlington Anybody I'll take a look at that.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 13:17 |
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I have a doorbell wiring question. Years ago I added a second doorbell in the basement since my wife could not hear the upstairs one when she was hanging out in our family room. So I have two buttons (front and side door) and two bells. Recently they stopped working so I replaced the transformer with this one, connecting it to the 16 VAC/10 VA output. Now it seems the side bell is still working but the front bell is not. I tried to test out a few things and I’m stumped, I even picked up a multimeter so I could get more accurate readings. What’s strange it the front doorbell button even lights up so it is getting power. What should I be looking for? I’ve never really used a multimeter so any advice about what I should test for would be appreciated. Edit: Found the diagram I created when I wired this up. tomapot fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Dec 1, 2013 |
# ¿ Dec 1, 2013 23:03 |
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Guy Axlerod posted:What voltage did your old transformer put out? I replaced the transformer with the same model, so 16V. Thanks for the advise will report back with my progress.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2013 05:54 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 02:42 |
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tomapot posted:I have a doorbell wiring question. This was a while back but wanted to thank Guy Axlerod and Kid Sinister for your help. Tracked down two problems, the button was getting stuck, burning out the transformer and the one bell unit was bad. Replaced them all and was back in business. Thanks guys.
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# ¿ Feb 16, 2014 19:30 |