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yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

got gifted a vespa moped and its been sitting since 2012

CV carb was giving me trouble but i figured out it was the diaphragm in the top of the carb not being sealed right which was stopping the slide/needle from moving.

would start and idle no problem. could goose it a bit and the accelerator pump would give it some gas. however there was zero main jet action so it was un rideable.

I hate constant velocity carbs. gimme that slide action.

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yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

is there a set if JIS screwdrivers i should be looking at.

i just turned nearly screw in my carb into mush but from my experience that seems to be the default thing that happens

or box of hex head screws that are the right length and pitch would be nice

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

Slavvy posted:

impact-twist handle that are basically made for carbs.

yes!!! this is what i needed. i knew those impact kind existed but never looked it up.

time to grow up and stop mangling every screw head with tue dremel.

also re: screws. the black metal oxide kind are the most common that I come across. stainless is a nice step up from those but fairly uncommon.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

took the daytona 675 track bike out for a little maintenance.






slider is replaced. but I found an alarming amount of glitter inside the engine case so i think this motor is about one afternoon away from seizing.

went ahead and orderd a 2nd engine for this thing and will swap it out over the next two weeks.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

MomJeans420 posted:

your sprocket lock nut looks just like mine, but I think mine only got rusty when I had the cover off after having to replace the nut (shop didn't fold it over) and was too lazy to replace it

I dont know what the deal is with triumph but that nut + washer is raw steel and all my suzukis seem like they are either stainless or galvanized so they never rust.

Also sorry about your bike.

This daytona I have has Penske suspension front and rear and a yoyodyne slipper clutch installed and it’s basically my favorite bike.

Its not that competitive for real racing anymore but it’s basically a dream for fast group track days. I see myself keeping it for another 5 years no problem.

Also its getting in that sweet spot where spare parts are available and cheapish. A spare motor out of a California bike cost me about as much as a pair of woodcraft rearsets.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

MomJeans420 posted:

drat, that's pretty cheap. What year is yours?

2012 675r
the R designation gave you brembo front brakes and a quickshifter. everything else is the same

engine is a 2011 gen2

all the gen1 / gen2 engines swap into any of the frames. the only thing is getting later model gen2 engines with all the revisions that make them less explody


Slavvy posted:


What makes your bike uncompetitive now? Afaict the horsepower in that class hasn't increased significantly, is it just the lack of electronic engine braking + chassis details?

Its this. The current stock of racing machines all have ABS and traction control.

Dudes just hold the throttle wide open on corner exit and just let the traction control handle it.
its cool to see in action. people exiting corners have the exhaust popping like mad as traction control kicks in and moderates the power.

the little extra bit of confidence those give you is good enough to outclass the older bikes.

Still love it though. The feel on track is unreal. I tracked an sv650 for years so the suspension upgrade alone is crazy.

yummycheese fucked around with this message at 22:13 on May 6, 2021

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

haha. don’t worry. it wont save you from everything.

its still early in the season here and there was a cold rain the first weekend and there was ~40 lowsides since people are out of practice and dont realize what works in the middle of the summer doesnt work when its in the low forties and damp

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

Slavvy posted:

How do you even make time with abs,

I dont think these things ultimately make you faster. You'd be faster if you dont engage them right?? Running wide on ABS is absolutely a thing.
Its mostly a mental thing in the amateur and intermediate classes. If you wanna make that pass deep into a turn. You can do it with the help of abs knowing your less likely to crash so its ok to be a little more aggressive on the brakes.

The traction control on corner exit is really where its at from where I'm at. There are several places on our track where its off camber on corner exit and up a hill. One spot on track is named "high side hill" since, well people tend to over do it on the throttle application and highside. Its a delicate place. Being fast is about having the confidence to lay on throttle and not over do it. Traction control is killer in this situation. The newest bikes have amazing TC.

Im on the old analog bike so I do it by "feel" and thats dependent on me doing everything right. which may or may not be consistent

MomJeans420 posted:

Don't worry, Triumph issued a corrected dipstick for the earlier bikes which just tells you to put more oil in, problem solved

This is alarming and also sounds very Triumphy



Check out this sketchy revision to a copy of the service manual I have.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

dropped the motor out of the daytona 675









When i first started to get into the motor I thought maybe it wasent so bad.

Then as I started to get it apart more I could see some tell tale signs this motor was getting tired. Crank case breather hose had plenty of oily grime around it. When I got the air box off it had some nice oily grime and carbon buildup on the intake valves. Getting the sensation there was enough oil in the combustion chamber to get turned into mist and then float back into the intake runners during overlap

The replacement motor I bought is looking great. Only 8,000 miles on it and looks clean in the intake runners and what little bit of the piston I can see. I’ve had the case covers off it already to swap the clutch and its nice and clean in there too.

Hopefully this new setup is stronger than what I had and this bike gets a whole new lease on life.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

triumph is about 3/4 of the together after having the engine out.

hoping to start it soon

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

lol at that brake fluid.

it seems like the last thing people change on old bikes if they ever do it at all and it makes a big difference in the feel with fresh fluid.


No pics, but I got my daytona 675 started today after buttoning up everything. Ran it through its little procedure where the ECU acclimates itself. Then went and ran it around the block a few times. Feels good.

I have a track weekend this coming memorial day so having the engine on the ground two weeks before hand was a little nerve racking.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

I recently revived a carb on a bike that had been sitting since 2012.

apparently they had the good fortune to fill it up with gas from a place that was pure gas and no ethanol and as a result it was squeaky clean aside from the little bit of unevaporated gas in the bottom of the bowl.

Nice reminder that there was a time when not everything was guaranteed to not start after sitting for while.

Also love stabil in all my winterized bikes. When I started adding that every season my spring time bike starting dance got a lot easier. god bless you black magic chemical additives.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

heat cycled my new triumph engine a few times before tracking it and its a good thing I did.

minor coolant leak. no biggie

more alarming. the oil seal at the output shaft is leaking a good deal.

the seal I can source from NAPA so not a huge threat to my upcoming weekend. slightly annoyed to have to do thus job though.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

triumph 675 update

This is one of those feel good situations when you realize the previous owner hammered the seal in like an ape and tore it up and you dont have a failing output shaft bearing.

I can just install a new oil seal and be done.

The way I get these out is to drill a tiny pilot hole with the the drill and then stick whatever screws are handy into the seal and pull it out.





yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

Re: tire warmers.

I love em’ Our tire guy sells pirelli and it seems to be the ticket for the pace + climate in New England.

We’re battling a big swing in climate. You have 40f and cloudy some days and 90f and sunny other days and those are very different situations that would require different tires if money wasn’t an problem

https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/motorcycle/all-tyres/sheet/diablo-superbike

One added benefit of the warmers is it keeps the tires from heat cycling too much which deff something they weren’t designed for. Warming them up on the track tends to eat them up before they’re hot and sticky.

Then there seems to be a big range of tires and what they’re designed for.

“sport” tire for the street will not hold up to fast track riding. gets too hot and melts away at the faster paces.

“track day” focused tires seem to be an ok compromise for fast riding. Really great for colder days or very light rain. These tires seem to be more flexible at less than ideal temps.

then finally the best no compromise is the slick compound in either the dot approved format or the pure slick format. These are kinda crazy. They come with sticker on them that say not to roll them on the bike if its less than 45f out. they’ll crack the compound and then they’re ruined. Even at 70-80f on a nice day they seem pretty hard. putting warmers gets them up to where they were designed to operate.

I most often run these or rain compound. The battle is I need the softer compounds at the beginning and end of season months when its cooler. Then the harder compound in the mid summer when the air temp + track temp is high. The softer compound cant handle the heat and melts away in a couple of hours.

Also note. this is a 600cc super sport in the advanced group. smaller bikes or colder climates can probably get away with less than a racing slick.

It’s frustrating to get it just right and not. destroy expensive tires :(

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

My three day track weekend was a success with the new engine in the daytona 675.

Racked up about three hundred miles on the track and it didn’t explode. Calling that a success.

Moved up to the fastest group and rode around guys on 40k ducati’s. Feels good. I Love this bike.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004



the last few seasons ive put stabil in my tank and drained the gas from my carbs before storing them away. now on the first startup of the season i can just put the petcock on prime for a second and have the bikes fire right up.

younger me used to skip these steps and then i’d be pulling and cleaning carbs the first week of the season. lol at that noise. ill do it the easy way now k thx.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004



last week when i changed the oil in the drz400. i noticed a little bit of glitter in the oil. drain plug magnet had collected some stuff too.

motor has never been f’d with so im searching for common failure modes and going through them.
this is me locktite’ing the flywheel bolts and stator bolts. common mod on these bikes. mine did not have the lock tite from the factory.

next up im going to go through the clutch and clutch basket looking for trouble. then pull the valve cover and check that out.

the inside of the flywheel had scratches where the stator had made contact. i’m hoping that was the issue. nothing seemed loose though so im not sure how things got out of wack enough to touch.

will flush the oil three of four times in the next couple of miles to get as much of the grit out as possible

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

continuing to wrench on the drz400.

changed the oil again. pulled all the drain plugs plus the metal screen one in the frame. nothing crazy stuck in it.


got inside the valve cover to check valve clearances. was thinking maybe the timing chain was making noise so i gave that a good inspection. also took out the automatic chain tensioner to make sure it wasn’t damaged or set too tight. seems like its in the middle of its rage still so we’re good there. reset that.







any plug gurus wanna peep my mixture. this bike has a FCR39 that look jetted for the bike ages ago. looks spot on to me.





minor annoyance. the spark plug boot has a little clip that grabs a hold of the the spark plug. the vibration from the engine is causing it to move up and down on the plug and damaging the plug and boot. got a new spark plug so i can try and correct it. would be annoying to get stranded over this minor thing but thats what regular maintenance catches i guess.




next up. thinking about pulling the clutch and and the clutch side engine case cover and going through it all looking for surprises.

drz400 engines are not easy to come by. i dont want this one to blow up. this engine is probably better maintained than most but it wants to kill itself

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

Anyone ever re-spoke their wheels??

I was cleaning the chain and oiling the filter on the DRZ and realized the rear wheel is F'd. Every spoke is loose and the whole thing is a wobbly mess. I'm worried I wore out the hub or the rim with it having so much play. But I guess its time to pull the wheel off and un lace it and check it all out and try and re-lace it with new spokes.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

i dont know if your US based but I just went through this with my drz wheel and http://www.buchananspokes.com kept coming up online as a reputable source.

i called them up and they knew exactly what i needed and were overall pretty helpful.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

factory chain guard installed + undertail LED’s. a rare combination

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

Jazzzzz posted:

Huffing gas and comparing notes is too on the nose for this forum, c'mon


it rules tho.

a highlight for me is being at the race track and having all the bikes fire up in the morning when everything is cool and the engines aren’t completely burning their fuel yet.

everything is running a tune and they’re all burning that sweet sweet high octane.

really gets you in a state of mind.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

yea…. on the sport bikes. it doesnt help that the special tool to hold the clutch basket grabs hold of the rather delicate clutch basket fingers. all the while you gotta put like 100ft/lbs. of torque on the nut that holds the basket to the crank.

on mine the nut is locktite from the factory. so the only way to get it off is heat and an impact. clutch basket loves this obviously.

the clutch basket is also made out of the softest cast aluminum for performance too. thus making it even easier to break

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

seems smart. a trackday buddy upgraded to an aprilla. Turns out every little thing is both expensive and difficult to source. an aftermarket rear shock was like decent percentage of the bikes msrp.

We were all just so used to there being a million ebay listings for Japanese bikes. forgot what it could be like.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

T Zero posted:

Installed some engine case covers. Surprisingly painless to do

Nice! Ive crashed these a number of times and they held up great. never even bothered replacing them after some minor rashes.

On the other side for the stator cover. I have the much chunkier WoodCraft one with the replaceable skid plates

Our race regs require these things so we dont oil down the track during minor crashes.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

I’ve seen DRZ people drill and tap those to fit a Zerk valve. That way they could use a conventional grease gun to top it off.

classic suzuki. Mine had the thinest coat of that light clear grease they like to use on everything and needed servicing after it started squeaking.

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yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

Phy posted:

Pulled the valve cover off and recorded clearances, tomorrow is time to have fun with spreadsheets

what kind of bike and what did you find?
generally I find that the exhaust side will have tightened up a bit and the intake side is usually in spec.

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