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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I think you have to machine the head to accept the type of auto-decomp mechanism that the E's had. The S and SM's have a different one designed for the electric start. Afaik the auto decomp on the S and SM exhaust cam still works with the kickstart, you don't need the manual decomp that the E head has. you just ignore those parts of the kit when fitting. I was thinking of getting one just because kicking a bike is a lot more manly than push butan, and also because the lovely battery and lack of an off switch for the headlights has caught me out a couple of times in cold weather.
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Jan 20, 2014 20:37
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 18:42 |
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This is for sale near me. http://www.donedeal.ie/motorbikes-for-sale/honda-cr500/6201598 
echomadman fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 02:07
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ought ten posted:
Even with the stock front mudguard you get destroyed in the wet on a Drz sm, the 17'' wheels are too small a diameter and throw the mud out past it. I'm still trying to find a lower mudguard that will fit.
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Feb 20, 2014 15:06
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Putting together a shopping list to finally mount the FCR I got for cheap on my drz, have all the jets and gaskets etc ordered but now i need to sort out the throttle cables. Will the E model cables fit in an SM throttle tube? The cables on there now for the mikuni won't work at the carb end, but a 20 quid set of E cables is an easier solution than the 100 quid motion pro set/trawling ebay for a complete E throttle assembly. edit: also learn from my mistakes, after all the poo poo i'm buying today my cheap FCR is really only saving me about 150 quid over buying a specific kit outright, and may still not work as i can't test it till I get the loving airbox adaptor. All due to lying ebay cunts that say "yeah this came off a running drz brah, for sure", it came jetted for something way bigger than a drz and missing an o-ring form the AP so no way was whatever it was on running properly echomadman fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 22:23
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I used the R&G Tail Tidy, highly recommended. If you ever plan to ride in the rain don't scrap the OEM tailpiece, all those tail tidy ones mean you will have a brown line of road dirt up your back every time you ride.
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May 6, 2014 18:27
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Safety Dance posted:Unrelated, but I can't imagine having a 20 mile round trip commute, much less a 60 mile commute. I've found that my quality of life is best when I have somewhere between a 1 and 3 mile commute -- around 15 minutes on a good day. How do people do it? I have a 20 mile round trip commute and it only takes me 10~15 mins each way depending on traffic. I used to have a 2 mile commute and I always felt like i was just putting unnecessary cold wear on my bike when I used it to go to work.
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May 6, 2014 21:58
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My rear Pilot power has squared off after ~2500 miles, looking at getting a set of Distanzias next and cant decide whether to go for the softer sumo variant in 150/60 17 or the harder compound 150/70 17. Threads on various forums put the softer 150/60 at about 1500-2500 miles tops and the 150/70 at 6000+. Anyone have any experience with either or preferably both?
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May 22, 2014 19:03
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SaNChEzZ posted:Make sure you use a zip tie on the door of the toolbox though, BotchedLobotomy once littered the road with spanners and had no idea I lost two nice disklocks thanks to that bag opening one day.
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May 30, 2014 00:20
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Razzled posted:So I went on my first "long" (~150 miles) ride yesterday and noticed a couple things. 1) My riding posture sucks and my back was aching a lot towards the end of the trip. 2) My hands felt like a half full jar of coins, like the bones were just jangling around. I assume this is due to the vibration of going highway speed and me gripping the bars much too tightly. It takes a while to get bike fit so that long rides are comfortable, so thats part of it. You're already aware that you're holding on to the bars too tight, thats something you should be consciously working on every ride. If you're tall or have a long back then risers will probably help. While the drz seat isn't renowned for comfort its not that bad, you can move around a lot on it, and standing up for a while every now and again to stretch out helps. sometimes on long boring motorway stretches i throw my legs up on the tank scoops and ride it like a chopper
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Jul 6, 2014 11:51
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Minty Swagger posted:Ha yeah I suppose I'm over thinking it. Jack stands it is. I use an old beer crate to hold the bike up when i'm taking the wheels off my drz.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:25
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ReelBigLizard posted:
It's worth noting that's comparing them from an enduro perspective and the suspension on the S, E and K DRZ models isn't the same as the SM, which has better, (albeit comically mismatched front-rear) suspension than the XR.
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Jan 29, 2015 20:07
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While you have it taken apart that far you could fit an E base gasket too and get a little bump in compression/power.
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Feb 10, 2015 21:40
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henne posted:I take it that's the cylinder base you are talking about? Would changing to an E head gasket make a difference as well? yeah its the base gasket, the E one is a single layer the S and SM is a 3 layer type. afaik the head gaskets are the same. EX250 Type R posted:no hes talking about the top gasket that alters the distance from the head to the piston Thinning the base gasket also does this.
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Feb 10, 2015 22:04
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 18:42 |
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Putting my 17'' wheelset back on the drz as i don't like how the E wheels feel above 50mph on the road. Anyone tried Michelin Power RS's on their sumo?
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Oct 1, 2018 16:30
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