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I was into the hobby for a few years and have spent way too much money. I've had buggys, stadium trucks, pan cars, and touring cars. My current car that I haven't messed with is a Team Associated NTC3 touring car which I promptly stuffed an OS .18 into. It'll do an honest 60 mph with stock gearing and is a blast. However, maintenance on the nitros sucks. I wish I would have gotten into the hobby more recently since lipos and brushless motors are the way to go. Awesome power and ridiculous run times. If you want nitro, you should be able to get a RTR(ready to run) touring car for $300. If you want electric, jump on a brushless car. It will likely cost you less in the long run than a traditional electric. This is where I used to buy everything: https://www.towerhobbies.com
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Apr 27, 2009 00:58
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Rabble posted:My brother and I used to race Team Associated electric cars about 15 or so years go (god its been that long). Anyway, he was talking with our father about maybe taking the old cars out of the attic and getting them running again. So, for his birthday that is coming up I went and bought him one of these Losi Micro Truck. I just pulled out my RC10T that I bought new back in the early nineties. I pulled out all the electronics and installed a Traxxas TQI radio and 6000KV brushless system with 3s li-po's. I've just did the RPM 2.65 conversion, after I tore up the vintage Thorp diff gear by melting it. I found some RPM arms and just ordered a set of 3/16 bearings and MIP CVD's to beef up the drivetrain. This thing is ridiculous, even with the throttle limit set to 50%. It certainly never ran anything like this, even on 7s Ni-Cad's and a modified brushed motor. I'm sure I'll end up breaking and replacing evey part on it(and spending tons of $$$ in the process), but it's worth it. I even still have my Tekin BC210 peak charger and Novak Tempest speed controller from back in the day. Eventually I'll break out my 20 year old RC10L and give it the same treatment.
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Jun 29, 2012 22:59
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Since I revived my RC10T I've been thinking about getting something else to bash with. I love Team Associated for some reason, and found the Monster GT 8.0 and watched some videos. It looks like ridiculous fun, has tons of power, and you can get them all day long for under $500. Does anyone have experience with these? I haven't really seen anything else in that price range that tickles my fancy as much as the MGT. I already have an NTC3 that I bought when it came out(with an O.S. .18 CV-R), but I want something I can drive anywhere and won't break something every time I take it out. Plus nitro cars are cool, even if most of them are slower than modern brushless electrics.
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Jul 3, 2012 23:15
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krushgroove posted:The Thunder Tiger version might be cheaper since it doesn't have the AE name attached to it. I can't remember what it's called off the top of my head, but IIRC they're identical trucks. Thanks krushgroove. I happened to be online today and saw a 1-day only 4th of July coupon at amainhobbies.com for 10% off, which I couldn't pass up. Ended up buying an MGT 8.0, 3 quarts of 20%. a stick pack for the starter and a receiver pack for $530 shipped to my door. Should be in within a week and then the break-in will begin. I have an enormous complex across the street with tons of grass, dirt, rocks, and a huge skate park to bash around in. I was fgoing to try to find a light;y used on on e-bay, but $439 for a brand new one sounded like th ebest bet.
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Jul 5, 2012 04:56
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illcendiary posted:Well, after all the fun I've had in three weeks of owning a brushless 4WD Stampede, I'm bringing my T-Maxx out of storage and attempting to rebuild it after five years of having it sitting around. I've begun the process of ordering missing/broken parts online, and I've disassembled and regreased the transmission/differentials. Any special care I should be taking with the engine? I hope everything ends up working after all these years You may want to pull off the air filter and put a little fuel/ARO/or some kind of thin lube in there and crak it over to lube everything before you attempt to fire it up. Maybe pull off the clutch bell and hit it and the shoes with some sandpaper. I'm sur there will be other suggestions, but once you get it running I'd take it easy for a little and make sure everything is working as it should(linkages, no slipping in the drivetrain, etc). Depending on how it was put away the carb may be gummed up. Every time I tire of my NTC-3 it sits for a year or two before I pull it out again, but I haven't really had any issues, even with fuel sitting in it and basically throwing it in the closet when I'm done with it. On another note, I've been running the 10T around at 50% power after the new tranny, RPM arms, and CVD's. Decided to turn it up to 100% this evening just for fun. It is holy gently caress fast and absolutely will not keep all 4 wheels on the ground, even at 30-40+ MPH. I have no idea how fast it goes, but its insane. After about ten minutes 3 teeth busted straight off the idler gear, so I've got a couple of extras on the way and reprogrammed the ESC to 50%. I can see why 4WD is almost a necessity with this kind of power, and I can see that I made the right decision to fit it with 3s power and a 6,000 KV motor. The MGT 8.0 will be here Wednesday, so I'll get to work on breaking it in and hopefully get to have some nitro fun next weekend.
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Jul 9, 2012 02:42
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So I got back into R/C a couple of years ago. I had a few Team Asociated cars I bought 10-20 years ago and drug them back out. Converted my original RC10T to brushless with a cheap Hobbyking setup and ran it on 3S, but it was just too much power. Blew up the stock engine in my NTC-3, so I stuffed an OS .18 in there and it's just about perfect. About 3 years ago, I decided to go big, so I bought a new MGT 8.0. The .50 engine was a piece of poo poo, and it finally seized about 2 years ago and I shelved the truck. I was so sick of having to fix something or fiddle with the tuning every time I took it out I just didn't want to deal with it anymore. About a month ago I decided to convert it to brushless. Holy poo poo, what an amazing difference. Grabbed a conversion kit and dropped a Mamba Monster 2 in it with a 2200KV motor. On 4S the thing can't keep the front tires on the ground at any speed. After getting tired of doing wheelies for a couple of weeks, I bought a brand new Losi 8ight 3.0 nitro roller for $140 and converted it to brushless. Dropped in the MM2 and stuffed a 16T pinion in there. No wheelies(except on fresh asphalt or concrete), but this thing RIPS! I never ever imagined that R/C cars would evolve to the level they are at today. Even on 4S it puts a smile on my face every time. I ran it once on 5S in the parking lot and destroyed a brand new set of front tires with 1 battery pack. Just got done filling the center diff with 10K silicone, and it seems much better now(sends more power to the back), but I need to keep it on dirt. I may throw a 6s pack in there once just for fun, but anything more than 3S is just plain retarded. The motor stays under 130 degrees on 4s, so I could probably go up a tooth or two. I also get about 20 minutes of runtime per pack compared to what, 6 or 7 minutes with the old Ni-CAD setups and lovely brushed motors? I remember back in the day, a 7-cell 8.4V Ni-CAD pack was considered pretty hot. Now we're running 25V through motors that can easily handle whatever the batteries can throw at them. I will never ever go back to nitro cars. To each his own I guess. My TC3 sounds cool and is extremely quick, but the awesomeness of brushless Li-Po power has got me hooked. If I can find a decently big new parking lot around here I may delve into brushless on-road for some serious speed and fun. I'm sure an 1/8 scale on-road with 6s and MM2 power would just be hysterical and pretty terrifying. I thought about converting the NTC-3 to brushless, but after owning two 1/8 trucks, I think I'm hooked on the bigger models. Plus the OS .18 puts out plenty of power, and I don't want to push any more torque through a 12 year old drivetrain. If there is anyone left who is a die-hard nitro fan and has not had a chance to try out a good brushless setup, I wholeheartedly encourage you to do so.
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Apr 20, 2016 02:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:The TC3 drivetrain is stout as hell, I seem to remember it being used for some crazy world record poo poo back in the day. The only real downside it has is that it is extremely draggy compared to a well set up belt drive car. I think you're right. I've had the diffs and 2-speed apart so many times that I'm afraid the screws won't grab the plastic if I take them out again. With good tires, I've had to set the diffs really tight to keep them from slipping. I'm pretty sure they're ball diffs like the old RC10 stuff, so to run the "big" power from the OS .18(I think it had an AE .10 or .15 when I got it), I had to cinch them down so there's not much differential action. It still works good for bashing though. Las time I raced was 1 time back in 1997 or so with my RC10L. I was leading, hit a barrier, broke one of the hub carriers, and threw it in a box where it still sits to this day. In other news, I just installed a Traxxas Tqi radio system with TSM, or Traxxas stability Mangement in the 8ight. I already was using a TQi radio, but needed a second one so I scored a cheap new TSM setup on e-bay. Thought it would be fun to give it a try after watching some videos. I was going to mount a helicopter gyro, but this seemed way easier and was a simple drop-in. I had a ball field across from my house that I like to run in. It's dirt covered in fine gravel, so pretty slippery. I'm curious to see what kind of difference the TSM really makes, though the car goes pretty straight as it is(or I'm just really good at countersteering). I was going to put the TSM in my MGT, but that thing just hangs the front wheels in the air when you're on it, and I don't want it slamming down with the front wheels cranked over from the gyro. I'm thinking about attaching a steel bar or something resembling a roll of quarters behind the front bumper just to try to keep it from flipping on its roof. Honestly, most of the stuff I do now is centered on making the cars more reliable and less prone to breakage. If there's one thing I've learned, it's that a gallon of nitro or 6 charged packs ain't worth poo poo if you break something in the first 5 minutes, and I'm sure as hell not taking apart transmissions and diffs anywhere but my workbench. I already shattered one of the big straight-cut tranny gears in the MGT just running it in the ballfield/grass. There was no slop or misalignment, it just knocked a tooth off and ate itself up. That's with a FOC, 2nd gear lock, and 4S MM power.
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Apr 22, 2016 21:22
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Well, the TSM was a success. It just simply works, not much more to say. I have it turned down to maybe 20% or so(9 o'clock on the MF knob). If I crank it up too far, like wayyyy to far, it'll dance all over the place because it's making huge corrections. I can now crank the wheel hard to the side, stab the throttle, slide like a boss, and as soon as I let go of the wheel it just locks in to the direction it's ponting and goes perfectly straight. In all honesty the car goes very straight without any assistance, even at full throttle and brake, but it's pretty cool to mess with. Now I'm just waiting for my new servo to show up so I can throw the MM back into the MGT and have some fun on grass. I thought an 1/8 scale buggy would be able to handle short grass, but that is simply not the case. It just spins and spins, while the MGT hooks up everywhere. It spends more time on 2 wheels than 4. The kids also started using the ball fields last week, and the last thing I need is some shithead parent storming up to me asking me why I'm "tearing up" the ball field. I'm pretty sure the total cost of gravel I've thrown out of the thing is about 2 Cents, but I'm not going to get into an argument over it.
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Apr 24, 2016 20:56
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Put a 6S pack in the 8ight today and strapped my old Garmin to it. With the 16/48 gearing I have it ran 74.1 MPH. I had a 20T pinion I was going to try, but the shank wasn't long enough for the grub screw to really grab the motor shaft, so I left it alone. With this kind of power, assuming the tires don't explode, this thing could easily crack 100Mph, no question. It was topped out within about 2 seconds of grabbing all of the throttle. I did it nice and slow so I didn't flip it over backwards or destroy the front tires from having them claw at the pavement. Made about 10 good runs for about a city block or so(topped out RPM-wise within maybe 200 feet), and the motor was only at 110 degrees. Sounded like a little Indy-car going by the house. I'm thinking about looking for some more speed-oriented tires just to have some fun, but if I get bitten by the speed bug, I'm pretty sure I'll destroy it in short order, just to get a meaningless number. I could probably strap 2 4S packs in it for 8s power and give it a try(probably good for ~95 Mph), but I'm not going to risk the ESC and possibly the motor. Much easier to just gear it up or better yet, put taller tires on it and have another go on 6S. I am still astonished by what is possible today in this hobby. I remember back when 100 Mph was the kind of poo poo we saw maybe on Ebaumsworld or Break.com, and that was record-setting. Tommychu: I don't know if HHS2000 is the right lube, but it's better than nothing. I remember all of my old plastic-gear servos used white lithium grease, but I have since moved to the high-torque metal-gear servos for the 1/8th stuff and never looked back.
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Apr 27, 2016 21:19
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Tommychu posted:Yeah it seems slick enough, and hey if it fails that just gives me a good reason to upgrade. I assume you're referring to the part where it moves about halfway, and then slowly runs to it's limit and hums. If you plug in another servo to the receiver and it's fine, then the issue must be with the servo itself. I've never seen that before, and my overtaxed 1/8 servos don't even get warm to the touch, at least not that I've ever noticed. In unrelated news, I put all of the electronics back in the MGT, and it is a very very diferent animal that the 8ight buggy. It definitely wheelies with the slightest whiff of throttle, and I have the battery all the way forward. I'm going to try pulling the spring spacers out of the shocks and see if it make an appreciable difference, but the control arms are already nearly flat. I'm beginning to think that the motor is just too much, and even with punch control turned on for the MM, it just limits power for about 1 second and makes acceleration even less predictable when the power is fed in. Now I can see why the power of the lovely-rear end .50 AE nitro motor was actually quite adequate, during the brief times it was running good. More gear won't help, as in, I'm running 4s and the motor temps are good and I don't really want it to go any faster than it already does, sooooooo, rather than gear it up and run it on 3s or 2s............................. I decided to buy a Kyosho Inferno GT2 VE RTR car, which solves 2 problems. 1. I'll now have a fresh ESC/motor that I can run on 4s in the MGT(putting out less power/torque than I currently have, hopefully, with similar top speed), and I can put the MM system in the inferno. 2. I've always wanted a larger scale on-road car, and the Inferno seems to fit the bill perfectly. I already had a set of GRP velocity tires coming for the buggy, so they'll go right on the Inferno if/when I do some speed run/fast stuff. I also have an abundance of enormous parking lots in great condition to choose from nearby, but my off-road options are very limited. However I justify it, I wanted an 1/8th electric touring car, so I got one. Looks like it has plenty of room under the body for batteries, GPS, or whatever I want to put under there, and I couldn't beat $449 shipped for an RTR like this, especially with the Aston Martin body. Link is below, should be here on Friday. http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Inferno-GT2-VE-Race-SPEC-Aston_p_11086.html
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May 1, 2016 19:51
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So, I got the inferno GT2. First impression was mixed. I love the body, it's absolutely beautiful, but it is very very flimsy. The stock electronics were ok, with ok power on 4s, but the tires may as well have been made out of ice, complete garbage. Everything got torn apart, the GRP tires went on, Mamba Monster went in, as well as the TQi TSM radio system. Filled the diffs, shimmed everything, and got a decent servo put in, along with a different motor mount so I can run big pinions. I finally found a "Dragonslayer" heatsink on Ebay that seems to work really really well at managing motor temperature with big gearing. On 4S with a 20-24 tooth pinion(hell, even a 29) and warm tires, the car is an absolute blast. It handles very predictably and has gobs of power and top speed. You can really get it to drift controllably coming out of turns, but it's tendency is understeer which is fine with me. I'm honestly very happy and not trying to set up the "perfect" handling balance. On 6s, it actually makes me laugh. I started gearing up and doing speed runs. Hit 71 MPH with a 24 tooth on 6s like it was nothing. I put in the 29 tooth and went to a great street nearby to give it a go. I was a little worried about the body deforming at speed, but I had no idea what was about to happen. I warmed up the tires, took it way up the street, and started the run fairly slowly. It looked and sounded great, and then right when the car was about 50 feet away, at full throittle, I heard a buzzing noise, and within a split-second it sounded like the body exploded and the car jumped about 2 feet in the air and skidded another 100+ feet to a stop. I looked at the GPS and it was sitting at 78 MPH. Now I know why the speed run guys talk about fiberglassing their bodies. I had run it up to 70 MPH a dozen times and it was as stable as could be, but above that I sure there were some crazy pressure changes and vibration going on. The damage to the car was 0, and there were a few cracks in the body that I epoxied. However, I realized that no amount of band-aids would allow me to safely run this body at anything approaching 100 MPH, and it looked so good I didn't want to destroy it. I went online, and the internet said to get an Ipanema Warrior body, so I got one. If guys running 150+ use it, I'm sure it will be just fine for me. Just arrived today and it looks as good as a $60 piece of clear Lexan can. I'll get it painted up, install the matching bumper that's coming, and have another go at it. I've realized that high speed runs are definitely something that take more than just big motors and gears. I'm a little worried about the center driveshafts, so I'll probably get a set of CVD's just to get rid of some of the slop and vibration that's going on. I would prefer to get a set of taller XO-1 tires so I can run shorter gearing and less RPM through the drivetrain, but I don't think they'll fit under the body without cutting the poo poo out of it and making it look ridiculous. Plus they'll probably rub on the inside, and I need to keep the body as low as possible to help manage airflow. I'll get it figured out soon enough.
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May 29, 2016 03:07
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kuffs posted:Whoa, I've got an MGT 4.6 that I would love to convert to brushless. I noticed that AE makes this now https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/Rival_Monster_Truck/LiPo_Combo/ which is just a brushless MGT. Where did you get your kit? I think I got the conversion kit through RC Monster: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=Electric+Motor+Mount+-+AE+MGT%2FThunder+Tiger+MTa4 I was actually out running the truck just an hour or so ago. I am still running it through the stock transmission/t-case locked in 2nd gear with a forward-only kit from when it was nitro. If I had to do it over again, I think I would take the time, money, and brain power to put together a center-mounted diff conversion(like a buggy or on-road), but it works just fine as is. I have found that moderate gears are mandatory if you want to run more than 1 battery pack through it. On 4S with a 17T pinion is an absolute beast(still a beast with ANY pinion you can stuff in there), but no matter how you drive, the motor will be at 160F with 1 pack, unless you're just put-putting around the yard and taking some jumps. The tranny gets hot too, as hot as the motor, and I did have to replace it once after it knocked a tooth off inside the case. It's a ton of weight to move around, and there is absolutely no way to dissipate the heat unless its freezing cold outside. I have a dragonslayer heatsink(biggest I could find, with a fan) with holes in the nitro body, and you can still melt the thing to the ground if you're not mindful. However, I would not put anything less than a Castle/Tekin/Novak/Hobbyking motor that is rated for extreme use. I had a Team Orion Vortex 8 that I destroyed in under 5 minutes on 4S in my buggy. Went from room temperature to completely demagnetized magnets and over 200 degrees in that time. The MM is more........forgiving let's say when it comes to the temps it will put up with. What I'm saying is, do not think(like I did) that you can run 6S and have a 60MPH+ monster truck to bash around with for an hour at a time, it will not happen. Well, unless you somehow can get a mount to put a 1/5 scale motor in it or have some kind of forced-air cooling system, but then you'll probably destroy the tranny and melt the bearings out of everything. It's actually a perfect truck on 3S or 4S. Even with 3S it'll still wheelie at any speed, and trying to control this thing at high speed without some sort of yaw control(I have Traxxas Tqi with AVC or whatever they call a gyro) is very dicey unless you set it up for it. I'm all about having over-powered toys, but compared to my 8ight buggy and Inferno GT2, the truck is really not that fun with the speed an power cranked to 11, unless you like breaking something every 2 minutes, or have a giant grass/gravel field and are watching temps very closely. I do not run mine on concrete, because I always want to have some slip at the tires to keep the shock loads down. I would love to get a 1/8th truggy or something similar that had big tires(to go across grass) but weighed 4 or 5 pounds less to really have some speed fun off-road. I even put a 1/2 pound of steel all the way out at the front bumper to help keep the front end down. It worked a little, but these trucks are very very wheelbase-limited when it comes to trying to get them to move forward instead of flipping upside-down. Do not let any of this dissuade you though, I would never stuff another nitro motor in this thing, I don't care how torquey or fast it is. edit: If you have not already, spend the money on a GOOD servo for steering. I've had a few ~200 oz-in servos in various 1/8 cars, and they are all poo poo in something this big and heavy. I now have a Savox with about 400 oz-in($80) and it is perfect. Meathole fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Sep 4, 2016 |
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Sep 4, 2016 22:20
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kuffs posted:Well I've got some news for you. In the interim I did a bit of research and found this guy that makes kits http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thunder-tig...5wAAOxyJX1TDZNs for center-diff MGTs. You need to source your own center diff and center driveshafts, but that's it right there. It's been a while, so you may or may not see this. I actually bought that exact mount a week ago to re-convert it to a more reliable setup. Hopefully. I was running it through the stock tranny. Had a brand new one I put in a while ago. Ran it out in the street the first day it snowed on 6S. Within 5 minutes it had melted the bevel gears that connect the spur to the tranny. I spent an hour replacing the parts, lubed and shimmed everything, and took it back out. Within 5 minutes, just running up and down the snowy street on 4S, it knocked a tooth off the output shaft gear. I honestly wasn't that surprised, since the stock engine was something like 1.5 horsepower with a clutch and no torque. The BL setup is ~5hp with instant torque and really no mechanism to allow slip. Well, there's the stock slipper, but if you don't lock it down, you'll melt it with that kind of power trying to move 12.5 pounds. Soooooo, to circle back, I have the center mount coming from Greece. To complete everything, I ordered an RC8 center diff, built it, and filled it with Silly Putty to make it solid. I had a Kyosho universal joint I had misordered for another project, so that became the front driveshaft. After measuring and test-fitting, it looked like a 125mm or so dogbone would be perfect for the rear, so I have a couple of those coming. Once the mount and dogbone get her, I should literally be able to bolt everything together and be done. The stock tranny will be thrown in the poo poo can, and all of those gears and slop and weight will be gone. I'm not expecting to be able to bash it all day on 6S, but at least the primary drive will now hopefully be stronger than the next weakest link. I'm glad you were able to get yours running again, but I will forever be sold on brushless setups. It would be awesome to see what an LRP .32 or something would do in this truck, but it's wheelbase-limited(flips over or wheelies at any speed when you nail it) at high power levels and there's no easy way to mount a nitro engine in it with a center diff setup like I'll have now. I honestly just want to have fun with it at moderate power levels and not have to buy $70 transmissions every few runs. It would be tempting to gear it up and strap a GPS on it, but absolutely pointless. Something would break or a tire would let go and that would be then end of it. I should have bought this mount and figured it out from the start, but I was in a hurry and was not banking on how much torque and speed the BL setup would have. I also didn't realize it would be enough power to break everything, even without the extreme shock loads from landing crazy jumps and outright abuse. It's like when a guy with a 1500WHP TT Viper shatters 4th gear every time they make a speed run with traction, the parts just can't take it. I know most of you will tell me to just cap the power using the tuning in the ESC, but unfortunately the Monster 2 ESC does not seem able to cap maximum power. It will ramp power up over a second or two, but once that time has passed, it's full-bore. No setting it at say 70% all the way through the curve or anything like that. I did just grab the Castle Link adapter, so maybe I can set up a capped curve in there? I'll have to take a look at it when I get things back together.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:50
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Nerobro posted:I had a decent session at the track today. I went through my pack five times. That's how it goes usually, break something and wait for replacements. I If I was racing I could never keep 2 identical cars or enough spare parts on hand, but I have 6 or so different cars/trucks to choose from, so when one breaks, I order parts and pull something else out to play with. They're all kind of in a rotation. The 1 thing I have learned, is that it's better spend the money on 1 good servo when you have to, rather than try to cheap out like I did and buy whatever Chinese $20 stuff is available on e-bay. It may look good and cheap, and it may work for a while, but you never know when or how it's going to break. I finally broke down and dropped the cash on a fantastic servo, and I've never looked back. It's a monster, and I know that any hit it takes to ruin that thing would probably destroy the whole truck/car along with the servo.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:59
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evil_bunnY posted:You could cap it at the transmitter too. You're right, I didn't even think of that. Thanks! When I was playing with the power settings in the ESC, it was very annoying to drive the car. Every time I got back into the throttle, it would start in the basement and ramp up, so there would be a delay, power would build slowly, and then come in really fast on the top end and make the car uncontrollable(unexpected wheelie/slide). You could never really tell what you were going to get, and more often than not I'd have to squeeze and then let off the throttle once the power came in, then get back into it and repeat. I'll see what I can set up at the transmitter to give it just enough power to barely pull the front wheels up at full throttle. Doing wheelies is fun, but it's hard on parts, and once the front wheels come up, the car can't accelerate any faster than it already is.
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Dec 21, 2016 23:08
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legooolas posted:Haven't touched anything RC for years, but reading this thread has made me want to dig out my old cars to have a go with it again I did the exact same thing about 5 years ago. Dug all of my old stuff out(RC10T, TC-4 with OS .18, and an RC10L), and got the first 2 going again. The TC-3 is pretty janky, but it hauls and I don't really have problems with it. The RC10T on the other hand is great, especially after I installed a HobbyKing 100A ESC and 5.5T brushless motor setup. It is absolutely insanely quick and fast on 3S LiPo, but when something breaks, because it's vintage, I have to pretty much buy 15 year old brittle parts from e-bay. I just ordered a transmission idler gear, because the NOS replacement I had in there knocked 3 teeth off. This was at 60% power too. The old stuff just doesn't seem to stand up to modern power, and we really shouldn't expect it to. If you keep the power moderate and you're really careful about tearing it up, the old stuff can be really fun and cool to play with. I will never ever go back to brushed motors and old-school batteries though, the modern stuff is just light-years ahead in run-time, ease of use, and power. Because I mainly run in the school lot and ball field across the street, I stepped up to 1/8 scale 4WD stuff so I can use the whole park and not be relegated to a parking lot or doing continuous donuts on the ball field. 2WD is fun, but even my 2WD RC-10T can barely go through mowed grass, because it's so light and the chassis is low to the ground. I thought long and hard about the spaces I had to run my cars in before I purchased anything. Ended up with an Associated MGT 8.0 converted to brushless, a Losi 8ight 2.0 nitro converted to brushless, and a Kyosho Inferno GT-2 for the parking lots, also brushless. The big stuff is definitely way more fun, at least for me. I like being able to fly across parks at a good clip and do wheelies and all that good stuff on the grass.
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Jan 16, 2017 00:35
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Dabbled in some racing long ago in various classes, depending what I had at the time, but never anything more than open class days at a track which was local to me at the time.
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IOwnCalculus posted:How many parts are unique to the 10T versus the OG RC10? Aren't there some re-released parts now? I honestly don't know. When something breaks, I go to e-bay and match up the broken part with pictures. I don't even know what transmission I have in the truck anymore. In other news, I put new driveshafts and drive cups in the center of my Inferno GT2. Shimmed everything and did a few speed runs, 98 MPH with ease. On the last run it spit out the rear driveshaft, bent in half, just like the last time. Everything was set up perfect, so I think my only option is to see if X-01 or other taller tires will fit to bring the RPM down. I think I have a 37T pinion, and the motor is pulling all the way to ~60K on 6S, so I'm maxxed out on RPM and gearing. Put it back together and geared it back down for parking lot fun for a while. In the meantime, I picked up a sick deal on another brand-new Inferno GT2 with an RB mods OPS NEXT .21. I said I'd never go back to nitro, but this was way too good to pass up. Still breaking it in, but I am super impressed with the insanity of this motor, even with it still being quite rich. Once the weather gets back into the 50's I'll finish the break-in and see what it'll do. Definitely seems like it makes about as much power as a MM on 6S, but I won't know until I can get the tires hot and get it to stick. It also weighs a good bit less than my electric, which is great! I'm still on the lookout for a great parking lot in the middle of nowhere, because this thing will wake up the dead. I'll post pictures soon. Also, just for fun, I got my NTC-3 back up and running. Had tuning problems and found out the O.S. .18 CV-R I had was bashed up a little inside, so I bought what I assumed was a fairly junk motor from Tower Hobbies. It's a an RcGearshop(Duratrax) .18 I got for a whopping $35. Got it installed, broken in, and tuned. This "junk" motor screams harder than my O.S. did, and seems every bit as good. I honestly can't find any fault with it, especially for that price. I think they're back up to $45 now, but well worth it if you need a cheap small-block to throw in something.
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Mar 14, 2017 22:18
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