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Leaky waterline goon: If you're going to rent any poo poo, like a mini excavator to dig that poo poo up, make sure you call before you dig. http://va811.com/ For that matter, if you hire someone to do the job, and they don't call before they dig (unless they're using hand shovels), tell them to gently caress off. Actually, if you call there, you might be able to get someone to locate your line. For free. You'll still have to dig that poo poo up though. For not free. Unless you already own a shovel.
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Aug 23, 2018 21:00
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kid sinister posted:It is free. Calling 811 works now in all 50 states. True, but where I come from if its between the meter and/or shut off valve then its considered to be privately owned. In other words, between meter/shut off and house, home owner owns that poo poo, and there fore isn't covered under "public" utility locates. A "Private locate" may be necessary. But thats where I'm from, it may be different where water leak goon is from.
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Aug 24, 2018 03:21
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Also trying to change a shower valve cartridge. Retainer pin is out but cartridge will not budge. Any suggestions? Its been in there since about 2000. Moen faucet. Aside from the water clean up, would just turning on the water for a half second pop that poo poo out?
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Sep 24, 2018 23:24
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BubbaGrace posted:You said the magic word, Moen. The hardest cartridge in the business to remove, the Moen 1222/1225. They even make a special puller just for it. Muthafucka...... Well, it was my brother doing the actual removing. He said something about driving some self tapping screws in to each side of what was left of the cartridge, and it eventually came out.... I guess its fixed now. Thanks for the advice though goons.
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Sep 25, 2018 05:14
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Bad Munki posted:and brace yourself for the nastiest hairball ever, especially if you ever jack off in the shower. I have long hair and uhhhh yeah, I can confirm this.
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Oct 3, 2018 11:39
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Put in the drain plug, then cloth oer top of drain, but yeah, what he said.
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Dec 5, 2018 19:24
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BubbaGrace posted:Honestly I don't even see drain plugs these days. Most homes have a trip lever with an internal plug down the overflow. All that old style stuff has been rotted out or replaced by now. My old fashioned mentality. I meant the spring loaded type you step on to open/close Or whatever constitutes "plugging" the drain thses days, plus the cloth. JMHO
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Dec 5, 2018 20:48
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BubbaGrace posted:Looks like there is a class action lawsuit brewing over Flowguard CPVC. I hate the stuff and refuse to install it. Every time I run into it out in the field I am terrified to touch it because of how brittle it can get. Would love nothing more than to see it go the way of QEST. Whats your experience with Kitec piping? Just found out a few weeks ago my condo is full of it.
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Dec 11, 2018 12:26
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BubbaGrace posted:Never seen it personally, but I know it's bad business as it also was the subject of a class action lawsuit. They stopped selling it around 05. The life expectancy is 10 years or less due to the deficiencies. You are on borrowed time friend. Get rid of it. Yeah, there was a meeting with all the owners a week or so ago. they were all like "yeah so this poo poo could catastrophically fail at any time, we're working on it, oh BTW, its probably going to cost 5+ Gs and you'll probably only get a hundred bucks out of the class action".
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Dec 12, 2018 13:11
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stupid puma posted:Any advice on getting a 60 year old bathtub drain flange out? It’s a 2” Kohler flange with two tabs on the inside of the flange instead of an X, which the internet tells me is rare and it doesn’t look like any removal tools are designed for an I.D. that big. It’s basically welded in there with ancient putty/pipe dope and hard water. Lucky me! I used one of these bitches : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tub-Drain-Extractor-65255/205930888 When I had to get the drain out of my tub, and the cross hairs at the bottom were all busted. Motherfuckin had to order that poo poo online, from amazon because home deepot didn't carry it in canada.
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Jan 8, 2019 00:24
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Alterian posted:I hope these questions haven't been asked recently. I went back in the thread and didn't see anything related. I am buying a house at the end of January. The house is on well water and a septic. Our previous house was on sewer and had municipal water. How much money should we have set aside in case one of these systems fails and we need it repaired asap? How often do well pumps and septic systems need to be serviced? Are there any good guides out there? Re: well stuff. Make a call or email to your local public health place, and get a water test kit for your water. The test kit should be free or maybe a few bucks, the test itself might cost a bit, but if you're drinking this water, and your wife/partner and kids, then its agood idea to test periodically. Even if the well is new, now is the time to start testing and keep testing. Keeping track of the results. Keeping track of the results now, you can notice any trends and changes that might be happening. Like more dissolved minerals or some poo poo, this may indicate something happening that might need attention in the future, not just for your health, but for maintenance of your well and plumbing system. Don't know where you're from, but while the regulations/laws may be different, much of the advice on this site is pretty universal. IE maintain well properly, don't dump poo poo down there etc.... http://wellaware.ca/
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Jan 8, 2019 22:52
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Also well stuff, don't know where you live, but in any civilized jurisdiction, you should probably be given a well record of some sort. If the well is old, it may have been lost over time. No big deal, but you should contact your state/provincial authority and try to get a copy. Hell, ask the current owners if there is a copy available. I live in Ontario, so if you were here you'd contact the ministry of Environment. If you're in the U.S. it might be the state EPA, or maybe the Department of Natural Resources or something. The record at the very least should tell you how old the well is, how deep, probably the flow rate, pump depth etc. That'll be helpful to you if you have problems, you can give that poo poo to the service/repair guy. The more they know before they start the better. They typically charge by the hour.
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Jan 9, 2019 02:06
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E^^^^^^^^^ Good point, it could be something from the city supply if you're not on a well. Hopefully you don't live in Flint. TBH I'm not too sure, I know a bunch of stuff about water wells from reading trade publications, absorption from demonstrations/conversations at seminars and whatnot, but I don't drill water wells. At least, not the kind that are used for drinking water. Your local health department could probably test for......... Dissolved minerals or something that might be affecting the taste. If you're in the U.S. you could try the National Groundwater association and/or get in touch with your state GWA: https://www.ngwa.org/connect-with-your-state/Affiliate-Organization-Contact Canada, there is the Canadian Groundwater Association: https://www.groundwatercanada.com/ The national associations might not have what you need, but your state or provincial organizations could probably point you in the right direction. What does it taste like anyway? Crap? Sulfur?
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Jan 9, 2019 03:23
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Alterian posted:I'm in NC and we just had two hurricanes and beat our yearly rainfall record so I don't know if that could of had an effect on it getting messed up? Definitely. If you buy the place, you should check every couple months, or whatever the local health department recommends, in addition to checking after heavy rains.
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Jan 9, 2019 17:19
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I've got a tub spout with the pull up diverter to send water up to the shower head. Its getting awfully hard to pull up/push down to divert the water to (wherever) and also its leaking when I've got the shower head going so I want to replace it. I know there are two different kinds of spouts, the twist on type and the "set screw type" mine has the set screw. So once I unscrew the screw, is it supposed to slide off? Or does it then also twist off like the other type? I'll assume its been on the shower since the place was built (~10 years or so), therefore I can surmise that it won't come off easily. What sort of steps can I take to remove it without damaging something? I don't think I'd be able to get a torch in there. Do I just wiggle and jerk till it comes (lol) or is there some sort of secret voodoo technique to get the thing to come out? How easy is it to replace with a twist on spout, or should I even bother? Should I be using teflon tape or pipe dope when I replace or are there o-rings/rubber seals that do the sealing?
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Mar 16, 2019 15:52
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SpartanIvy posted:From the videos I saw when I replaced my thread-on type spout, the set screws I all saw you just pulled straight off. You probably just have to put some force behind it, but before you do, you might see if you can find the model online just to verify how it works. I guess worst case you could try spinning it like a thread on type. Whether it's threaded or slip on it will at least break the tension. If you don't have one already, I recommend a strap wrench. They're really good for working on polished hardware without loving it up. If you don't mind loving it up, then I recommend a big gently caress-off pipe wrench, and also a screwdriver stuck up the spout to give you additional rotating leverage. Thanks for the reply, as I suspected it was a bit of a motherfucker to take off. I stripped the set screw head and ended up twisting the spout around, to try and get a better angle on it and managed to strip it even worse. Luckily I had my Canadian Tire Brand dremel "rotary tool" and some cutting discs. Had to cut slots in to the bottom of the spout, bend them back and then slice a straight slot in the screw and ram a flat screw driver in there to get it off. After that I got a grinding wheel out to grind down the burr I made in the copper pipe from twisting the spout around. Installed new one, works sufficiently. Hell yeah.
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Mar 17, 2019 21:54
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kid sinister posted:. I bet a rain barrel hooked up to your downspouts would be a better solution. I've read that if you've got asphalt shingles then you shouldn't use roof runoff to water anything you plan to eat (vegetables, fruit tress etc.). Something about chemicals leaching out of the shingles or something.
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Apr 29, 2019 12:09
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BubbaGrace posted:Improper venting, undersized gas lines, non-full port gas cocks, metal piping for condensate discharge or lack of service like getting it flushed and descaled at regular intervals depending on water quality. I always read your posts in Todd's voice and expect you to threaten to kick the rear end of anyone who doesn't take your advice.
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May 19, 2019 21:46
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Think of how much more freedom you'll have now! "Gub'min' telling me I cain't make drane pipes f'um ducktap an' terlet paper toobs".
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May 28, 2019 12:00
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The plumbing in my Condo is going to be all replaced in the not too distant future. As I have mentioned before it consists of Kitec piping which gained a reputation for sudden and catastrophic failure. While I'm getting that poo poo done, I'd like to get my shower faucet replaced. Consensus on here is don't buy home depot poo poo go to an actual plumbing supply store for that poo poo. I live in the Poverty spec 1 bedroom, 1 bath ground floor shoe box and most likely have the cheapest or second cheapest shower faucet that Kohler makes. Its the type with the single knob/mixing valve shits and then the tub spout has a diverter valve. I want to upgrade that poo poo, since its the only thing tap/faucet wise that I'm pretty much positive I couldn't do myself since it probably requires opening up a wall and soldering and whatnot. All my other faucets are accessible from under the counter. What brands should I be looking at? I'm a cheap, broke oval office, but I'm willing to spend a couple hundred more for something that I won't have to worry about for a long time.
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May 28, 2019 21:35
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Bad Munki posted:I doubt there’s an LP plumbing thread so maybe this is close enough. Hire a licensed gas fitter dude to do it, (don't gently caress with explodey things if you don't know what you're doing). I'd replace that valve just because its probably like a 20 dollar piece and why the gently caress not. A gassy guy should be able to make you, or get made any type of flex or rigid line to go from the valve to the BBQ that you need. As far as making it able to go from your home line, to tank and back, a few different "sub fittings" should be easy enough to rig up.
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Jun 29, 2019 23:51
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Is it really feasible to just take out the styrofoam on the inside of your toilet tank to make it go from low flow to high flow?
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Jul 17, 2019 16:41
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Some guy on this forum cut the tops off his engineered ceiling joists to sink his bath tub (its ok, he's an
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Jul 23, 2019 20:06
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Just coil a poo poo load of copper pipe in to a 50 gallon drum, connected to your water source/hot water pipes. Then light a fire around it. Hillbilly hot water.
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Aug 23, 2019 21:27
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Motronic posted:Every time I find 70 rolls it's white when I need yellow and vise versa. I've seen that poo poo before. Whats the difference between colours? I've seen white, yellow, and pink. I'd assume for different materials? What material = use what colour?
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Sep 4, 2019 10:58
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Jaded Burnout posted:To put it in context I have 10 million in employer liability (worker's comp equiv), 2 million in public liability, and another million in professional indemnity, and I don't even have any employees. All I do all day is type code; nothing I do can burn your house down. Yeah, but you live in one of those commie countries with FREE health care.
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Oct 11, 2019 11:11
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PremiumSupport posted:This comes from IT, but I think it applies here: If it's currently working, don't gently caress with it. Jus make sure that you don't listen to the voice in the drain. Nobody will see the blood.
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Oct 17, 2019 20:24
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Too bad they're not engineered joists, you could just cut the tops off and run all your pipes that way. IIRC the deal with joists is that you drill as close to the middle as possible so you lose as little tensile and compressive strength as you can. If possible, you should probably just run the pex through the same holes etc as the copper. E: gently caress you said it runs below the ceiling....
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Nov 30, 2019 21:57
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Motronic posted:curb cock Sounds like a skateboarding injury.
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Jan 7, 2020 22:56
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Almost looks like a treble clef trap.
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Mar 4, 2020 12:18
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If you're getting sediment in your water, your well screen probably needs to be replaced. A properly installed/functioning well should not be producing any sediment whatsoever.
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Jul 14, 2020 17:23
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SpeedFreek posted:I'm a little afraid that if that pump gets pulled up I'm going to need a new well drilled, the pump is about 30ish years old and I'm just trying to get a few more years out of it before I have to eat that cost. Its a 4 inch well and I have no idea when it was put in, the house was remodeled in the early 1900s and again in the 70s I'm guessing based on the construction methods used. Its a two wire system that used to use the screw in fuses in the disconnect until I changed it out, no dates on anything I could see from the original installation. I don't know where you are but your state or province might have a well record for your well. You, as the home owner should have one too, but these things tend to get lost. That *should* have all the relevant info as to the date it was drilled, method, pump info etc.... Thats not going to solve your sediment problem, or the iron/sulphur problem, but if you do have to call in a service company, it will help them, and most of those companies charge by the hour.
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Jul 16, 2020 11:54
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SpeedFreek posted:Thanks, I will check with someone I know at the local water dept to see if I should be checking with the county, village, or DNR. I'm in the southern part of Wisconsin about a mile in from Lake Michigan. Try this link: https://dnr.wi.gov/WellConstructionSearch/#!/PublicSearch/Index
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Jul 17, 2020 11:34
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Academician Nomad posted:About to take an adventure into installing a Set Rite Kit to raise my flange above floor level and reinstall my toilet. Wish me luck! Goonspeed with your poo poo throne repair. I hope it will handle the mightiest of dumps.
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Aug 22, 2020 02:26
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schreibs posted:Heya! Ive got a bathroom sink in my sons room that has a significantly weaker flow than the other identical 5 faucets I have. I took the aerator off of it and put the one from another faucet and still weak flow and put the aerator from the slow faucet another faucet and it has normal flow. I then bought new cartridges and swapped them out and still weak flow...I don't really know where to go after that. What else is there to a faucet?? Looking at the PEX coming to the underside of the sink and it looks to be the same size as other faucets so that leaves me with zero ideas. Anyone want to tell me what I am missing? Probably something clogged inside the faucet. Can you remove the faucet cartridge(S)?
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Sep 15, 2020 23:17
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Is that referring to the actual toilet or the room?
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Sep 26, 2020 02:19
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Eurekapile posted:New (old-) home owner here. I have a shower pan with a drain in need of an overhaul. Based on the "repair" I see now I suspect it was leaking before, and will leak again in the future. Unless mildew is water proof???? It's ugly as hell and I want to try to make it better without ripping out the whole shower. If I'm not mistaken, that waffle press (drain grate) is threaded on there.
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Feb 3, 2021 12:23
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If you don't want to deal with it don't. Don't touch it if at all possible. Don't disturb it in any way. If its possible to encase it do it. Build a wooden box or something to put around it. Big enough that you can put it over the offending pipe/insulation without actually touching the pipe or insulation. Asbestos is perfectly safe IF....... BIG IF........... the fibres do not get disturbed and become airborne.
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Feb 18, 2021 22:45
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Yooper posted:Hi plumbing thread. I want to share my adventure and get some thoughts. It will likely require pulling the pump. Unless you have a pump hoist or a crane, you'll probably want to hire someone. How deep is the well? E: unless your well is hosed, its not expensive well driller territory. Just call a plumbing company that also does well pump service. They'll probably have to have some sort of license for it. Here in Ontario, they would need a class 4 license which covers pump installation/repairs etc.. There'll probably be something similar where you are. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Mar 21, 2021 |
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Mar 21, 2021 02:01
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I've got frost blanket down and if it's thawed will dig it out tomorrow. I'm thinking a bad seal on the pitless?
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 10:44 |
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Yooper posted:300 feet. It's leaking outside the casing, inside looks fine. So if I dig down to it I should only have the PE->barbed fitting -> pitless 1" NPT? Water wells aren't my thing TBH. I do know some "stuff" about them, but I only drill test wells. Digging up around the casing is definitely something you can do to help expedite the repair work, but if it is the pitless, then that should be left to a pro. See my edit on the previous post.
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Mar 21, 2021 02:08
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