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The overflow tube being too tall isn't causing your fill valve to stick on all of a sudden, but it is the reason you have water coming out the handle instead of spilling down the overflow tube. If there's no obvious adjustment available, or the adjustment isn't working, just throw a new float valve assembly at it.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:29
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Grabbed this nipple too hard: Sprinkler plumbing, and in this case, a 1" PVC pipe buried about two feet underground and embedded in concrete, feeding a single sprinkler. I about poo poo myself when this happened. Thankfully, this exists and I can pick a few up tomorrow. I'm pretty sure most of the reason this happened is the whole manifold is overweight, overcomplicated, and unsupported.  This sprinkler setup is pump-fed and the new pump I just installed will happily feed all four legs simultaneously. PO spent way too much money and effort here trying to use a goddamn Harbor Freight semi-trash pump instead of doing it right. There's literally no reason for any of these valves to exist anymore, other than the fact that removing the two furthest ones will require the pump to be removed for access. The failed one is, thankfully, the closest one and has clear access.
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Dec 10, 2021 05:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Grabbed this nipple too hard:  Love that little "pipe extender". A $3 piece of plastic just saved me hours of digging to get under/around this concrete. Debating proactively reconfiguring the other valves, or waiting to see if any of them develop any issues.
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Dec 12, 2021 01:58
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SourKraut posted:Yeah, that's nice. Did you say you're pulling out all the isolation valves there, because multi-turn gate valves are poo poo... (honestly, any domestic gate valve is poo poo) If I touch any of the other three legs, it'll be to remove both the solenoid valve and the gate valve. At this point there's zero reason for either to exist because there's no reason I would only want one of the four sprinklers to run. It's strange, because the PO went to the effort of putting in a 1000 gallon tank and a pump to feed these sprinklers, and I'm assuming they did so because the water pressure and flow wouldn't be enough to drive them simultaneously off of the city water feed. And at a combined flow of ~50-60GPM, they're probably right. But then they set it up with a combination of solenoid and gate valves, wired such that the solenoid valves each could only open one at a time, and gate valves such that it would just block off one leg that would also be blocked off by just not running the solenoid. And fed the whole loving thing with a Harbor Freight noisemaker. I need to redo their installation on the water tank too. They put it on top of a pile of dirt and, shockingly, it's eroding. But that will wait a bit.
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Dec 12, 2021 16:06
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I wouldn't think twice about using sharkbites there if that's the route you want to go with. This isn't an in-the-walls installation and you can inspect it every time you service your water softener to see if it's leaking. (It won't) I'd solder it but that's mostly because I have the tools and solder fittings are so much cheaper than sharkbites.
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Jan 17, 2022 18:15
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Your water company lets you touch the pipe before the meter? Out here it's their responsibility right up to the meter itself, after that you're on your own. I admit that the one thing I don't like about how my house/neighborhood is set up is that my water meter is a solid 300'+ away from where the line actually comes up from underground and splits between the house and outdoor feeds... and most of that is on land that isn't mine.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:44
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Ah, then that's the difference. Out here the curb valve and meter are in the same box. Some municipalities are moving towards making them the same component, even. My mom had to shut her water off at the curb because she had to get the vacuum breaker replaced and had no shutoff upstream of it. The city was able to do it remotely.
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Feb 7, 2022 14:57
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B-Nasty posted:Let me guess, somewhere in the Southeast US or out West? Yup, Arizona. Everything out here is slab-on-grade construction so the vast majority of plumbing is run within the insulated space or within the slab itself. It's only exposed to the elements where it comes straight up out of the ground to the house's shutoff valve (and then straight into the wall) and the vacuum breaker (and then back underground). Still a risk in the once-every-few-years freezes we get here; at my old place, my next door neighbor had the pipe rupture right at the wall one particularly cold winter.
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Feb 7, 2022 16:25
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Bobulus posted:Is there a name for this? Madness, because who on earth needs to reduce the flow of a modern shower head?
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Feb 14, 2022 05:17
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I have a utility sink close enough to my water heater that if there wasn't a wall and door in the way I could turn around and touch the thing, and it takes a solid 5-10 seconds to get hot. Ten seems pretty quick.
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Jun 3, 2022 16:07
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Ten seconds is not long for hot water if you don't have a recirculating pump or point-of-use heater. My shower across the house from my heater takes a solid two minutes before the temperatures normalize in winter. Outside of that, start with what tater_salad said. The issue is almost certainly in the faucet itself, or in the shutoffs feeding it. The only other thing I could think of would be an extremely bad-luck case of debris in the hot water line, say, from a broken dip tube that managed to jam up somewhere in the pipes leading to just that sink.
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Jun 3, 2022 17:55
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PBCrunch posted:
 I'd make a project of putting a shutoff valve in that line just because, as insurance against ever having a leak at the sink where you don't have to go running for the main shutoff outside to stop.
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Jan 19, 2023 17:44
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Shifty Pony posted:
And I'm still going to say nothing of value was lost because PVC ball valves loving suck.
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Feb 1, 2023 01:36
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If you aren't in a "must do cheapest thing possible now" budget, replace the water heater. You're well past "on borrowed time" with anything inside/directly connected to the tank. If the reason for the fault is, say, one of the heating elements - there's a next-to-zero percent chance you can get that removed and replaced without causing terminal damage.
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Mar 18, 2023 10:12
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Anecdata: water pressure at my old house was documented as 88psi when we first bought it (2007) and I wouldn't say we had any undue problems with faucets or water-connected appliances over the next 14 years. Home inspector at that time recommended adding a regulator but we never did.  I'd be more inclined to address the shutoff valves, but depending on how your existing ones are connected, those could be a great baby's first DIY plumbing project. If they're soldered on or something and you don't want to deal with it, I'd bet you could get that job done for a lot less than $1200.
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Jun 30, 2023 04:20
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Assuming you want to be able to re-use that connection and you really do mean "a few days" I'd just go for an expandable rubber plug.
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Oct 15, 2023 02:39
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Related question: what is it that determines the need for an expansion tank on a hot water system? I've literally never seen one on any residential installation.
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Mar 12, 2024 00:41
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Gotcha. Out here the most common* way houses are plumbed is for the line to come out from underground adjacent to the front of the house somewhere, with the main valve on the vertical supply pipe coming up. It tees there to one line going into the house feeding the hot water heater and all the cold taps, and a second line with some form of vacuum breaker / anti-siphon valve feeding the irrigation and other "outside" needs. So since the hot side is fed by a line that generally has no pressure reducing valve or backflow preventer, it's still an open system and thus no expansion tank is needed. *The only one I've seen done differently is my mom's, where my parents and the homebuilder they used sure made Some Choices when it came to plumbing. The front of the house is as described above but in an effort to save what would have been a few dollars' worth of pipe when that house was built, the irrigation for the back yard taps off of a line that runs all the way through the house first. So all of the sprinklers in the back yard are effectively fed by a very long 1/2" pipe.
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Mar 13, 2024 06:46
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:06 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:Pretty sure that metal cover on the left side is for electrical/cable/internet. It's all buried lines in my neighborhood. Unless they do things very differently where you are, I'd be shocked (  ) if that was electrical; out here they still put the connections in above-ground boxes, even though the distribution to homes is underground. Same for cable and phone, they prefer some form of above-ground enclosure.If it's utility owned it should be labeled on the lid. I'd assume a box like that is either your water meter or possibly irrigation valves. edit: I just remembered that the street lights at my old house had in-ground boxes like that. Never even knew it was there until they showed up one day, dug it up and reinstalled it because it had been long covered over by gravel landscaping and the dirt building up beneath. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Mar 20, 2024 |
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Mar 20, 2024 20:28
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