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Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Gunbus posted:

I decided that I wanted to start building models again after a few years. So I pulled out this kit which was only only started a few years ago and I decided to finally finish building it today. Can't wait to get some paint on it. Its a maschinen krieger Kuster & Friedrich box set. Still have to build Friedrich.




Oh my god, that's a really cool model. Maybe I'm dumb or having some kind of horrible brain fart, but I'm having a hell of a time finding info on what it's a model of.. I see that it's Japanese, and I've found info on the model kits, the company that made them, etc, and mention of a "universe" they're from, but I can't find any mention of what this universe was created for--an anime, TV show, movies, or just for the model kits.

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Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Ensign Expendable posted:

Fun thing about those: they never really went away.



This is why artillery tables for almost every gun I've seen have data for gun elevations above what they're actually capable of achieving.

The fun part is being in battle and playing the "what random poo poo onhand can support this weight" game.
*bang*
*crunch*
"gently caress!"

George Zimmer posted:

Nobody paints a masterpiece the first time around. Good to hear it came out somewhat well...

This. I randomly got the itch for the first time in about 13 years and bought a couple Macross kits. The Defender came out alright, largely because I totally ignored the official color scheme and painted the whole thing the closest I had to air force gray. For my 'tactical pod Regult' on the other hand I tried to match the official art and it was a painting trainwreck, made all the worse by some really stupid fuckups during assembly.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Dec 6, 2014

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

A Jupiter posted:

...

Anyway, I'll post updates when I horribly fail my Hasegawa Tiger 1 build because I didn't read the OP.

Aw yiss, this is totally me.

I just got my first airbrush, and a couple Revell 1:72 airplanes to gently caress up learn with. And I have the next week off work. :getin:

My big problem, on top of the heavy drinking, is impatience, and not just with actually assembling and painting. I get tired of waiting for this or that to arrive from amazon or driving around trying to find a hobby store that has exactly the paint or whatever I want, and I try to make do with what I have. It never really works out. I always enjoy the process, but suffice it to say I'm not posting pictures.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

crime fighting hog posted:

Hey guys, I'm in need of a new air compressor. Would anyone recommend this one?

http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TC-20T.html#.VJ2W_eP-qA

I'm kinda concerned for quality since that's about a third the price I've seen for others of that kind. I mostly paint 40k stuff for people but would like to move on to bigger projects eventually like building terrain and so forth.

I got this as a Christmas present for myself (only it came with an airbrush and cost $15 more). It appears to be the same as what you're looking at, just without the tank, and I've been quite happy with it. Granted it's my first airbrush, but there's nothing obviously wrong with it, and with some practice on a few sheets of paper and a couple cheapo Revell airplanes I can get it to do exactly what I want.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Godspeed! :patriot:

That emoticon reminds me, I got this for Christmas:


It's my grandfather's flight log book and unit patch from World War 2. He was the tailgunner in an SBD dauntless. I'm suddenly inspired to find a model kit of one, ideally one of the variants that actually has a tailgun (:downs:), but everything I can find is either in tiny scale like 1:72 or costs a hundred loving dollars. None of the kits I can find have any reviews. Any recommendations?

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Gervasius posted:

Accurate Miniatures have a very nice SBD model in 1:48 for relatively nice price. Even better, Academy reboxes this AM kit with decals for VMSB-241 (your grandfather's unit if my googling was correct) and you can find it for 25ish euros, or 35 dollars.

Look for this boxing:



Holky gently caress. Thank you! Pulled the trigger, will report back with pics for the pic god.

In the meantime: a T-34.

Everything went together without issue, but there were loads of tiny gaps just big enough to look crappy. I shimmed them with random pieces of sprue, but you could still see spots of daylight when holding the top half of the hull up to a light, and knowing they were there pissed me off enough I went apeshit with putty.

Problem solved. :frogbon:

I'm going the whole rusted metal and chipping solution route.

Every picture I took ended up just as blurry as this one.

I've lost one of the hatches for the turret and am contemplating suicide.

Edit: I keep seeing people with that GARBAGE DICK avatar. What the hell does it mean?

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Dec 27, 2014

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

NTRabbit posted:

It's the new default avatar

:pwn: I see.

Ensign Expendable posted:

That's the model 1942 turret, right? The hatch is just a circle, should be easy enough to scratch build.

Yeah, the "Mickey Mouse" version. Luckily, the kit came with several totally unnecessary parts. I don't mean the options for early/late models or the accessories; the instructions has them labeled "unnecessary," some with no actual part name beyond that. One of them happens to be an oddly-shaped flat sheet.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Blue Footed Booby posted:

...
I've lost one of the hatches for the turret and am contemplating suicide.

...

I found the loving hatch. It had broken off the sprue, slid across the table, and gotten caught in a spiderweb between a dead cricket and the spider.

Calling it done. gently caress the accessories. Tank don't need no shovel or wooden crates.


Turns out if you put water right on the model, the chipping goo causes huge chunks of paint to slough off. Oh well, slightly more weathered than intended, but it'll do.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Arquinsiel posted:

One time I was building a 40k Leman Russ kit that a friend of mine had left sitting in front of a radiator for a couple of years and the hull just refused to go together. I had gotten to the point where I had just superglued the thing and then held it with rubber bands but it popped apart under the strain of the warping and I was then trying to scrape off the superglue that had built up to start over again one last time when I slipped with my scalpel and basically carved a line straight down from my thumb into my palm. Blood everywhere, probably should have gotten stitches, blah blah dumb college kid. Next time I tried sticking it together it worked with no problems.

Some kits require blood sacrifice to complete.

You can use the superglue to glue the wound shut. If I recall correctly, this might actually be the purpose it was developed for. It stings like hell, but does a pretty good job.

Just for the record, the red stuff in the picture I posted is in fact red paint.

The blood is all out of frame.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jan 1, 2015

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Baronjutter posted:

Mess with reactionary minds? MORE BIKE LANES! Pedestrian-only streets! Full marxism, blacks and whites living together! Massively subsidized rail transport!!! (ok model train dudes are usually ok with this!)
...

Now I want to build a train table with interracial couples and dudes walking along holding hands, post pics on some model train forum, and see how long it takes people to notice. Maybe include a Synagogue and Mosque but not church, just to cover all my bases.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Ensign Expendable posted:

Oh, it looked a lot bigger. Still, very nice.

Sorry if you already know this, but see how the depth of field is really narrow, and the top and bottom of each picture is blurred while the middle is sharp? Those are signs the pictures were taken with a macro lens, specialized for super closeups of tiny stuff. The narrower the sharp area, the smaller the object is likely to be.

You can actually make any real photo look like it's of scale models by faking this bluring in photoshop. There was a thread for this in GBS a while back.

VVV phones :argh:

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Jan 10, 2015

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Shachi posted:

Right now I use the magnifying glass on my helping hands when I need to do small delicate stuff. What I really need a is a solution to getting good light behind me onto my project but without me getting my fat head in the shadow. I feel when my light is overhead it casts an even worse shadow on the figure I'm working on. I really should buy another lamp so I can put two light angles on it. I feel when my light is overhead it casts an even worse shadow on the figure I'm working on.

Have you tried backlighting and a white shirt? :v:

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Chillyrabbit posted:

...

EDIT2: Holy poo poo just googling what tank it was based off of gets me into a forum thread specifically about the anime, turn into bashing on shermans and tigers and MBT's

Out of curiosity, what kind of tanks DO they approve of? The Tsar Tank? Ratte? This thing:

?

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Chillyrabbit posted:

Depends on which side its split between "German steel" and "Russian quantity", there were a couple of sane posters but they bailed pretty fast.

Ah, the internet.

No Pun Intended posted:

That's clearly a tankette :colbert:

I call them tanklets.

Guess which tank I'm building!

:shepicide:

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Ensign Expendable posted:

With tracks like that and that many road wheels, I'm going to have to guess Maus.

You are correct!

I got the kit by Dragon off eBay for like 25 bucks. Only other kit I could find was for Girl und Panzer.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Chillyrabbit posted:

Quick question, if I want to paint a camouflage scheme with hard edges ie. like digital. Is masking tape to mark the edges the only way to do it? I'm using a brush.

Silly putty works pretty well for hard edged blob camo. Not sure if you want hard edges like digicam, or specifically want to do digicam.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

I got shitfaced last night and worked on models. Astonishingly, I didn't mess anything up.

Except this guy:


Hail Satan.

VVV :lol:

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Feb 15, 2015

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Arquinsiel posted:

How does one learn to do an oil filter? I feel like I need to know this.

On what? Panzer? Boat? Starship?

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Arquinsiel posted:

Given that I was unaware there was a difference, the entire concept from the ground up please.

No Pun Intended posted:

Big_g buried it in his post -
...
You use small dots of various colours of oil paints (usually browns,black,white & yellows) over your model then blend them together using thinner. I am sure there is a proper tutorial out there but this should give you the general idea.

I saw "oil filter" and thought you'd accidentally posted in the wrong thread, and decided to post a cheap joke about it. :saddowns:

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Jonny Nox posted:

Those are aircraft scales. Look for merlin or double wasp type engines.

I'm not suggesting go here, but this might be a useful starting point. At least you can get an idea of what you want and google something more approriate?

http://www.ultracast.ca/Aircraft%20Accessories.htm

1/35 is a standard tank scale. Searched a bit and there are a number of engines available.

http://www.amazon.com/Nuffield-Liberty-Engine-model-accessory/dp/B00NS2ZM8C

http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/cmk3017.htm

Funny how they seem to get arbitrarily expensive.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Ensign Expendable posted:

...
I didn't put on any decals because literally every single one included with the kit was wrong :(

What kind of wrong are we talking about, on a scale from "right text but wrong size" to "literally dickbutt?"

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Sauer posted:

...even the Soviets didn't know what colors they were using; use your best judgement."

Realizing this was kind of a zen moment. After the third or fourth time pre-painting research stumbled on a gigantic forum thread arguing over what color some particular paint was intended to be, what it actually was when applied, and the way it looked during most of a vehicle's service life (these are of course three very different things) I just said "gently caress it" and started eyeballing poo poo and doing whatever scheme I wanted. If anyone calls me on it I plan to say "that particular tank was painted by idiots."

I'm tempted to try make my Academy konigstiger ambush camo plaid.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Ensign Expendable posted:

There were official paint guidelines, but it was sometimes hard to get official paint, so improvisations were common especially for Camo.

Also you should totally do it in plaid.

Nebakenezzer posted:

That sounds really awesome, actually. Do it :getin:

The internet told me to, so now I have to. :sherman:

Will report back.

Eventually.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Sauer posted:

Been experimenting with different thinning mediums for my Vallejo paints (all my paint aside from Alclad metals). Water works fine but too much leads to the paint beading on the surface, corrected with a very tiny amount of dish soap as a surficant. The paint dries dead flat for most hues but seems rather fragile. Just passing my finger tip over it a few minutes after its touch dry will cause small flakes. Windex works exactly the same as water but costs more than water where I live. Isopropyl alcohol causes the paint to curdle. Rapidly congeals into chunks that spray globs all over your surface. Yuk. Might be useful for some effects in the future. Liquitex Airbrush medium is the best so far; thins beautifully and leave a rock solid surface after drying. It does lighten your paint when you mix it in but it dies perfectly clear leaving the true hue. Does have a tendency to cause White and anything you mix white into to dry on the tip a lot faster than usual. Leaves the surface semi-gloss. Future is pretty much the same and costs a poo poo load less but leaves a higher gloss surface.

Vallejo makes airbrush medium that seems to work pretty well. There seem to be two variations. Don't know if one is discontinued and third party amazon sellers just have stock laying around, but both work pretty well, and are cheap enough (and go far enough) that they seem worth it IMO. One is way thinner, to the point where it makes measuring out a bit of a pain ("one drop, two, three fo-uh, six?") but it's surmountable.

You probably know this but I thought I'd mention because it's weirdly hard to find in my area and may be like that elsewhere??

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Space Jam posted:

I'm into my 5th model after getting back into modeling after well over a decade. It's a Trumpeter BMP-1P. gently caress individual track links. Oh my god.

:negative:

My Maus still doesn't have tracks because I made the mistake of cutting links from the sprue before painting them and now it's an even bigger pain in the rear end.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Sanguine posted:

My theory on matching colours is as follows:

Given;
1) It's hard enough to match colours today with handheld reflectance spectrophotmeters and other gadgets,
2) Under pressure all production facilities will cut corners,
3) Getting colours exact in WW2 production would not have been near the top of the priority list,
4) Even the spergiest of the sperg differ on what many of the actual shades were,
5) A monitor is going to regularly give false impressions,

Close enough is not only good enough, but most likely quite accurate.

If I'm honest this is probably just over justification of sloppiness. But it feels right, man. :madmax:

There's been WW2 paint chat a few times, each time with people bringing up different points. Im too lazy to hunt down my post, so hopefuly im not just repeating myself.

The short version is you're pretty much correct and not just rationalizing. In fact, it's even worse than that.

From what I've read, German tanks (I don't know as much about planes) were shipped out in a base color, alongside cans of powder pigment, to be painted on arrival in whatever theater.

This pigment was intended to be mixed with gasoline as a thinner (no, really), presumably to simplify logistics. Since German logistics were comically hosed, the schmucks in the field would supposedly use all kinds of things when gas was short, including used motor oil, diesel from captured Soviet tanks, and even water. This hosed up not only the initial color, but how quickly it faded over time.

Combine this with the state of color photography at the time (and the fact that photos fade, as do museum pieces) and you get a situation where the best records of what colors poo poo actually was are frequently goddamn text descriptions. Anyone who claims that this exact shade is accurate but that one isn't is lying. Chaos reigns. Etc.

Anyway, last time around this discussion ended with me resolving to paint a king tiger with ambush camo plaid. Still working on that because I got busy building two other tanks and the SDF Macross. :downs:

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Drunk modeling (sober posting) on the king tiger that never ends. Working on the engine compartment no one will ever see.



The titty-gnoll is to prop up the rear piece while the glue dries. She is evidently interested in engine maintenance.

Painting tank guts is oddly therapeutic.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 04:28 on May 17, 2015

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

SkunkDuster posted:

Maybe it is historically correct, but those gray and white stripes just make me think it is a German soldier who is confused about which side of the gas chamber he should be on.

I laughed way too hard at this. And I can't unsee it.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

That could be a cool. Get a good quality "base" kit of whatever vehicle, and then check the local hobby shops for their cheapest shittiest kits to kitbash from.

The tank car was built on a Ripsaw chassi. If anyone finds a kit or convincing look alike, please share!

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

SkunkDuster posted:

An easier alternative to daisy-chaining the lights would be to open your bedroom closet and tell your wife that you really aren't cool with her shoes all over then grab a handful of extension cords and march triumphantly back into your modeling room.

Just knock two holes in the wall, one at light-level and one below at socket level. Don't bother with faceplates or anything, just bare holes. Chaos reigns.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Troll Bridgington posted:

I picked up this baby for my Badger Patriot and I absolute love it.
http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMP...rush+compressor

It's a bit more expensive with the tank, but having to only run the compressor occasionally really makes airbrushing more pleasurable for me. The compressor itself isn't even that loud. It comes with a pressure regulator and water trap as well.

You can also find a compressor/tank combo that is very similar to this one at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby.

I have that same compressor, but without the tank--the version that's packaged with an airbrush. It's really no louder than a regular conversation. I've found the weird, obnoxious whistles you get sometimes when airbrushing concave shapes ares actually a good bit louder. Been very happy.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jul 9, 2015

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Ensign Expendable posted:

Seconded, they have a plethora of kits that are cheap enough to cut your teeth on, yet high quality enough that they are easy to put together and look good on a shelf.

Also, Tamiya doesn't have any tank models (as far as I know) with individual track links to glue together, which can be a bit...overwhelming for newcomers. Some of their WW2 tanks are older kits, but they've got pretty consistent quality.

Edit: oh wait, you were asking about ships and planes. Uhhhhh. Not really my area of expertise (to the extent that I even have one) but I'd caution that a lot of ship models are...fiddly. I have a Trumpeter kit of the HMS Dreadnought that I haven't come close to finishing because it's got about 11 billion tiny-rear end parts. There's plastic boxes made of separate walls that could have been solid pieces. It's like tweezer hell. Unless that's your thing.

The 1:72 Revell planes aren't exactly the best, but the price is right. When I first got my airbrush I got a spitfire and a bf109 for like $7 each just to have something to practice on. They're great for experimenting.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Jonny Nox posted:

....
Tanks are bad for newbies because they are generally full of finicky little suspension parts and the tracks are either individual links that have to be glued together around the roadwheels or lengths of molded-as-one track that have to be built around the wheels like a puzzle.
...

Out of curiosity, which tank are you talking apart here? I've never had the suspension be the biggest pain in the dick.

Aside from Dragon's Maus kit, but that's a really special case. There's nothing that could make a tank with that many bogies and wheels pleasant to put together.

The Locator posted:

For ships, get a Trumpeter 1:200 scale Missouri and all the photo-etch upgrades for it from Eduard.

This is a joke. Don't do this unless you hate yourself and your wallet. It will cost well over $500 and is probably over 3000 parts, and it's over 53" long.

Ahahah, christ, you weren't kidding.

Fuuuck that.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jul 19, 2015

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Panama Red posted:

Thanks.

On the Tamiya models, though, can people recommend a good retailer to buy from through Amazon? The Tamiya USA catalog is expensive by comparison and the nearest retailer is in another state. I don't mind ordering from Japan, but it seems unclear if the instructions come in both English and Japanese or just Japanese. Been burned recently on some things I ordered online so looking for guidance.

I buy through Amazon, usually without looking at the actual seller. Frequently while really, really drunk. Regardless of where they ship from they've always had at least an english version of the instructions.

Just be warned that anything sent actually from Japan will take a highly unpredictable amount of time to arrive. I've had stuff show up a week later, and had other packages that took so long I'd totally forgotten about that and ended up with a mystery package a month down the line.

Anything Prime enabled is pretty much interchangeable, though.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Sanguine posted:

...
... oh..


.. oh.

...

:lol: The tiger's wheels are a pain in the rear end even at 1:35 just because there's so drat many. That kit looks like, if not a kick in the balls, then at least an uncomfortable squeeze. You did a good job playing the cards you were dealt.

So this week I was working on an Academy tiger II I set aside a while back for various reasons. I went the pre-shading route, and I'm pretty happy with how that part came out. The color...not so much. :pwn:

My phone's camera is making the shading look weaker on the hull than it really is. Also, it looks even greener in person, like some kind of incredible hulk tank. I don't know what the I was thinking but I don't think I'm gonna try to correct it and risk making matters worse. Or maybe I'll follow through on my joke post a while back and paint the thing plaid. I don't know. Gonna stick this thing on a shelf and not think about it for a while.

Next thing to paint is visible in the background.

On a mostly-unrelated note, a friend of mine recently came back from a vacation in Japan. He brought me back this:

Apparently Japan has toy-in-a-plastic-ball vending machines that dispense WW2 tanks. There are just sitting around somewhere in Tokyo.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jul 27, 2015

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Arquinsiel posted:

That's really cool looking. What scale is it?

I have no idea. The only non-Japanese text on the little paper that came with it aside from some tank names was the word "deformed." I think I have the name of the product line written down somewhere at work. It's ungoogle-able without that name, because you just get a bunch of "lol top ten wacky japanese vending machines" clickbait articles.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Nebakenezzer posted:

If we do a Russian tank we could all argue about what "real Russian green' is, just throwing it out there

e: slightly more serious post, I'm good with any tiny tank. The IS-3 is good for me.

Totally down with the IS-3.

I tried to find a maus kit for truly gently caress You numbers of bogies, but didn't see one for less than $20 bucks. :v:

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Ordered my js-3...and also a tamiya Matilda that was in the suggested items list beneath the product description. drat you, Amazon. I haven't even gotten out of bed yet and I've already ordered tanks. :argh:

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Package just arrived!


Let's open this sonubitch up.

For some reason this reminds me of that video of a canned turkey splorting out into a pan.


:goleft:

This is gonna be great. :haw:

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Aug 2, 2015

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Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet


:laugh: You have no idea how deep this rabithole goes.

There are several companies who make tracks that actually work.

Arquinsiel posted:

I am absolutely fine with vinyl tracks, but I am a weirdo so... yeah.

Congratulations to Troll Bridgington on being the man who proved that Airfix kits are quick builds. Well done that man.

I'm fine with vinyl tracks, too. Most trouble I've had was one where I mangled the attachment tabs and ended up just using needle and thread. They actually don't look bad if you give em some heavy dirt treatment.

Speaking of which, I started building my JS-3, then got distracted and took my first ever attempt at powder pigment dirt fuckery, applied to my second ever tank.

A lot of you guys are better than me (and perhaps more importantly, way more patient) but I'm pretty happy with the result.

After I finished that, I started on the airfix kit, immediately broke the gun, and bodged together a replacement.

Also pictured: the reason that turret and the main hull is as far as I got.

Locator: you're wonderful, and insane.

Edit: I just realized I don't have a single model in progress shot that doesn't have alcohol in the frame.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Aug 6, 2015

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