Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Archer2338 posted:

I'm inclined towards WWII armored vehicles, but some of them look insanely detailed and I would most likely die from frustration if I bought the wrong model. Scale doesn't really matter, but what's the best "starter" size?

I used to do tons of WWII armor as a kid, and made a couple kits for fun last winter. Tamiya makes some really great 1/35 armor kits, and while things like main battle tanks are a little pricey, they also make a lot of smaller kits in the $15 range. I got some weird german mini-tank for like $13, and it was almost as fun to put together as the $40 Tiger kit I did 20 years ago.

For $50 I got a couple cans of tamiya spray paint, a few jars of detail paint, some brushes, an xacto knife, and the kit. Had a couple fun january evenings putting it all together.

If you really want to spend a lot of time and go a little crazy, get one of their artillery kits.

# ¿ Jul 20, 2009 00:43

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# ¿ May 3, 2024 10:21

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Hi model thread.

Getting back into making models after approximately 30 years off because the kids are teenagers that want to hide in their rooms and my wife is going back to grad school, so I need something quiet to keep me busy while she studies.

Spent the last month reading the thread and holy crap are so many of you so good. I've got a lot of techniques to learn. I thought I was fancy when I was 15 because I figured out how to use a sprue and a candle to make whip antennas for tanks.

The big difference between 15 year old me and now is that I can spend more, and there's so much out there, which leads me to my first question of the thread:

Is Mission Models paint not good?

I picked some up to use on a kit I've had kicking around forever, and found it to be overly thin with uneven coverage over Tamiya primer. It was the first paint I ran through my airbrush and thought I forgot how to use one, until I tested out a Tamiya color (thinned with x-20 to the rim when I first opened it, just like I used to do) and it went on beautifully.

I can mess around with settings/technique, but if the consensus is that it's not good paint, I'll just move on to the vallejo rack next to it.

# ¿ Feb 1, 2023 18:02

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Just put together a Walker Bulldog myself. Waiting for it to warm up a bit so I can go out to the garage and paint it. I've been using my garage compressor with an air dryer on it, but I can already see a compressor and fan box in my future so I can paint indoors. Running outside and trying to get a coat down while the paint and model are still warm is a pain in the rear end.

I had a real "shake the box and it will assemble itself" moment when I was dry fitting the top and bottom halves expecting to have to do some sanding or other tweaking and nope, they just went right together, so I got the cement and made it official.

Also, potential hack from a newbie: I've been struggling with filling the Touch n Flow, so my technique is now to put the tip in my bottle of extra thin and blow in the back so that the bubbles can confirm the tip isn't blocked by any plastic residue, then instead of flipping it over and letting capillary action do it's thing, I just use a blunt syringe to fill it about 2/3 full. This gets rid of a lot of putting it in the jar and tapping it when the cement doesn't rise up, then putting the tip in for the cement to clear it out when that doesn't work, then rinsing and repeating. I was getting really frustrated with it till I figured out that a blunt syringe will fit inside it.

# ¿ Feb 2, 2023 16:42

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:

The Touch n Flow should have come with a small plastic bottle. You put the end of the Touch n Flow into the tip of the bottle, squeeze the bottle and let it suck up cement into the applicator.

Don't do what you were doing, especially blowing into applicator. Your one errant cough away from drinking the cement through the applicator, and then your landlord finds your mummified corpse slumped over your hobby desk 3 years later.

Mine came from my local hobby store with just the applicator and nothing else :shrug:

The instructions were to put the butt end into your cement and wait for capillary action to draw cement into the tube, which does not work great, and obviously doesn't work at all if there's any plastic blockage in the tip that stops the air from being displaced. What you're describing sounds like it does work great.

# ¿ Feb 2, 2023 18:44

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Started my first 1/72nd plane while I wait on some weathering supplies for my Bulldog, and I have no idea how the 1/144 planes people post in here look so good.

Building the Airfix BF-109 and it's fun but. . . frustrating. The kit's not terrible, but it's hard to work with such tiny parts.

I've got a Tamya British Chieftan tank to do next, and I'm wondering if I'll have the discipline to not just move to it.

On a more positive side, I'm pretty happy with the Bulldog build and even managed to make the rusty mufflers look like I know what the gently caress I'm doing.

# ¿ Feb 12, 2023 23:41

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Using the wishlist feature on scalemates is helping me keep my stash out of my house. We'll see how long that lasts.

# ¿ Feb 15, 2023 15:48

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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stealie72 posted:

Started my first 1/72nd plane while I wait on some weathering supplies for my Bulldog, and I have no idea how the 1/144 planes people post in here look so good.

Building the Airfix BF-109 and it's fun but. . . frustrating. The kit's not terrible, but it's hard to work with such tiny parts.

I've got a Tamya British Chieftan tank to do next, and I'm wondering if I'll have the discipline to not just move to it.

On a more positive side, I'm pretty happy with the Bulldog build and even managed to make the rusty mufflers look like I know what the gently caress I'm doing.

Self-quote for an update in case anyone cares: Gave up on the 109 when I got frustrated after accidentally cutting a rear stabilizer strut in half and then finding that the fuselage halves didn't mate up right, leading to a bunch of cascading issues that required more filing than I cared to do on that model.

Moved on to the Chieftain kit which so far has had a 100% fun and 0% frustration level, even if there are a ton of mold lines on the sprue with the wheels and suspension. I'm surprised that even the older/cheaper Tamiya kits seem to be pretty great--though I shouldn't be because they were great 30+ years ago when I was first making them. I think I may move to either the 1/48th Vietnam era Skyraider, or the 1/48th F4 Corsair next.

Also, I think I'm done with my first real attempt at weathering on the Bulldog, so need to give that a final varnish and then put the treads on so I can learn to mud things up. Got some cheap oil paints off Amazon to play with for the weathering and they were amazing to work with. It seems like I could keep playing with weathering roughly forever.

My mid-term goal is to get good/confident enough to build either Tamiya or Zoukei-Mura's 1/48th F4 Phantom, but that feels a bit far away.

# ¿ Feb 20, 2023 17:41

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Terminally Bored posted:

RE: Airfix kits being bad, the newer molds are pretty good value. The fit is good and they're one of the cheapest model brands out there. And the transfers are done by Cartographer which means there's no wrangling with thick transfers like in cheap Academy kits.

Not sure if this is considered newer or not. Looks like a 2009 kit, according to scalemates.

Ensign Expendable posted:

I kept the mindset of buying cheap kits because they were cheap for far too long, now I have a closet full of garbage I'll never build.

Exactly what I'm trying to avoid here.

Gewehr 43 posted:

Life is too short to build lovely kits.

And also this. This is for quiet fun time. If I want to be frustrated with annoying projects that I've got to finish, I've got a house and cars for that.

# ¿ Feb 20, 2023 22:52

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Going to order my next 2 kits in the next week so they're waiting for me when I finish my current project (and because shipping feels "cheaper" when it's spread across more than one thing).

I've narrowed down what I want to build to these, roughly in order of interest:

All seem pretty well reviewed. Has anyone had any particularly awesome or terrible experiences with any of them?

stealie72 fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Feb 22, 2023

# ¿ Feb 22, 2023 15:13

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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MrUnderbridge posted:

thick decals.

Gewehr 43 posted:

decals are thick af.

Does using Microsol/set help deal with the thick-rear end decal situation by helping them contour a little more? I've thus far just been using water like I always have.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2023 17:20

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Speaking of tanks, my fist complete model as an adult.

I think my weathering is a bit clumsy, and the tracks need some dirt, but im pretty happy with it. Oh, and I need to work on my tiny painting for the figure.

stealie72 fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Feb 24, 2023

# ¿ Feb 24, 2023 01:58

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Gewehr 43 posted:

An extremely respectable first effort! Bravo!

A few thoughts -

Don't forget to weather the inside of the tracks. Dirt and dust gets on the inside of them too. I once read a comment from Shep Paine that said "a tank moves through the ground rather than over it" so remember that dirt and mud will get pretty much everywhere.

To fight the silvering on the serial number decals, make sure you apply decals over a gloss coat and, if possible, use something like microsol/microset to help them adhere.

Scraping the mold seams on things like the .50 cal and jerry cans with the back of your hobby blade will make them much smoother.

Figure painting is an art unto itself. Again, as a first effort, it's really not bad at all! If/when you get serious about figure painting, there are a lot of good tutorials on youtube. But until then a basic wash flowed into the cracks and crevices of the uniform will help it pop a little more.

Anyhoo, I would be extremely happy with that as a first effort and I really look forward to where you go with the hobby. Keep posting!

Yeah, I put a very thin layer of rust inside the tracks and then completely ignored them. Good call.

And I definitely need to get mocroset/sol for the decals.

Oh, and deal with the mold lines on stuff. Already doing a better job of that on the Chieftan.

I did wash the figure but I was struggling to not remove it all since a lot of he detail wasn't deep, so the folds are definitely not popping like want them to.

FrozenVent posted:

Did you prime the uniform before applying the green? I can sort of see a light colour coming through the green.

The uniform was built up from several layers of green over grey primer. First I went too dark, then I made a mix that was too light and khaki-ish, and then I settled on his swell little-too-bright jacket color that he's got on now.

So combine that with me only marginally knowing what I'm doing, and I probably should have given him another coat, but I was high on the discovery of how much more realistic non-monolithic color looks.

Edit: the level of realism i was happy with here involves his armored division insignia being a red triangle decal from the BF-109 I gave up on.

Edit 2: Thank you both for the feedback. Where are my manners.

stealie72 fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Feb 24, 2023

# ¿ Feb 24, 2023 02:48

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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grassy gnoll posted:

You can do the vision ports in black with some gloss varnish to simulate a lens, but I like to do mine in a sky blue with white highlights, just to play at glassiness.

Ooh, I'm guessing that's one of those tiny things that helps the finished look a ton with 10 minutes of effort.

grassy gnoll posted:

The beauty of it is that every kit is a learning experience, and you can do as little or as much as you like to futz with it as you go.

Just this cheap and old kit has been a huge learning experience.

It was making me think about how much knowledge is just sitting out there for free vs when I was making models in the late 80s. Back then, most of the knowledge I had was things I picked up along the way from spending hours at the library looking at Jane's and Time-Life tier books on WWII, watching Wings on the discovery channel every time I could find it, and talking with my dad and the grey beard at the model shop about how to make models like the ones in the display case. I think I spent most of a week's paper route money on a "how to build military models" book that taught me what a half hour of youtube would do now.

But now? Holy crap. I've watched several hours on different weathering and painting techniques, watched a build video of the model so I could see it go together (not that I really needed that because the instructions were great), and found a bunch of pictures of various M41s in use and on display. Just sitting out there for me to find.

# ¿ Feb 24, 2023 13:50

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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neurotech posted:

I still like it a lot though.

Hope so, because it looks pretty awesome.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2023 04:32

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Ended up ordering the Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire after comments here led me to some glowing youtube reviews.

It includes babby's first PE, so that should be fun. I don't need anything fancier than plain old superglue for that, correct?

# ¿ Mar 1, 2023 16:26

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Do you have any tools for bending the PE? You don't need to go out and buy a bending jig to start (although they're very handy), as long as you have something to hold down a piece of PE and then get something slim like a blade under it to lever it up and make the bend. Even two pairs of pliers would work in a pinch.

Yeah, I've got all sorts of stuff to bend, cut, and file metal with, just not any of the really useful stuff like knowledge and experience.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Iris Scissors

Man, when my wife was a floor nurse years ago I'd find these all over the house because they came home in her scrubs so often (along with hundreds/thousands of alcohol wipes). Going to have to see if any are still around.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2023 17:58

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Vorenus posted:

From a quick google search:

1. .17 Hornady Magnum Rimfire, commonly known as the .17 HMR, is a rimfire rifle cartridge developed by Hornady[3] in 2002. It was developed by necking down a .22 Magnum case to take a .17 caliber (4.5 mm) projectile.
2. Modern BB guns usually have a smoothbore barrel with a 4.5 mm (0.177 in) caliber, and use steel balls that measure 4.3�4.4 mm.

Obviously the engineering and legalities would be much more complex, but ~theoretically~......

Shooting one of those out of a remote control tank is of extremely dubious safety and legality in the US.

Shooting the other would only be preempted by local laws banning it, and would be awesome. And depending how much room you have in the turret for a firing mechanism, and room in the body for a CO2 cartridge, would potentially be doable by a skilled person in a garage.

There's also airsoft, but meh.

# ¿ Mar 2, 2023 16:56

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Lord Ludikrous posted:

This is a slow mo so you can see how the recoil mechanism works.

https://i.imgur.com/U3B73Nm.mp4

This one has sound and is normal speed.

https://i.imgur.com/FwuGy5y.mp4

This is so cool.

# ¿ Mar 3, 2023 22:59

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Warmachine posted:

More seriously, this has pretty much everything you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B002KSQHB6?th=1

Compressor, tank, regulator, moisture trap, and a passable brush. It's what I started on. The only things I've done is buy more brushes. I have 4 now--the brush that came with this kit, a similarly cheap pistol-trigger style brush, an Iwata Neo and a Badger Sotar.

I'd recommend getting a spray-out pot as well, and looking into what you can do for a spray booth. There are lots of DIY booth guides out there--my starter booth was a rubbermaid container and furnace filter strapped to a bathroom fan

I'm a re-newbie returning to the hobby so take this with the requisite grain of salt, but I'm using this brush as babby's first airbrush with an existing air compressor and I've got no complaints.

The difference between "has no airbrush" and "has a $40 airbrush" is incredible, and I feel like I'm learning more because I'm not really afraid of loving up the airbrush, which I would be if I started with a $200 one. I've already learned some important lessons about cleaning without being stressed that I wrecked something expensive.

Having said that, I'll eventually get something nicer. Despite it being a dual action brush, it's more realistically "spray/no spray" because there is an extremely limited range between no air and all the air and a very tight curve of the needle being all the way closed and as open as it's going to get.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2023 14:38

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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tidal wave emulator posted:

you can improve their performance by polishing the needles with very fine sandpaper.

Going to give this a try and see what I can pull off. I think I've got up to 2500 grit out in the garage.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2023 15:12

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Charliegrs posted:

(unless I wanted to make a glossy orange tank)

So...there's been lots of posts with realistic tanks, buuuuuuut

# ¿ Apr 6, 2023 23:38

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Well poo poo, just bought a 6 pack of different Stynylrez colors. Should I expect it to just be garbage?

# ¿ Apr 7, 2023 13:52

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Whelp. Sheyit. I got it through a random hobby shop selling through amazon, so who knows.

Guess I'll be priming some takeout containers first.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2023 17:46

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Lord Ludikrous posted:

Of course as is typical now I actually have proper smoke fluid and had the exhaust kicking out some wonderful smoke, the smoke unit has failed. They're known for being noisy, lovely and generally unreliable so when I have a bit of spare cash I'll chuck an upgraded one in.

You're going to post some video of it smoking once you get that fixed, right?

# ¿ Apr 11, 2023 19:38

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Making the new Tamiya Spitfire Mk 1 that comes with baby's first PE parts, and. . . what a pain in the rear end these are. Partially because they're tiny (1/48th), partially because they're fragile, and partially because they're metal.

I managed to break the one that holds the compass(?) below the instruments because it's joint was thinned for easy folding. Which also meant every time I bumped it putting the rest of the cockpit together I weakened the 90 degree joint at the back till it simply fell off.

Unrelated- how do you all paint/assemble fiddly bits of cockpits? I watched several build videos where people put together bare plastic sub-assemblies, then primed/base coated them, then painted in details.

I don't really trust myself to do this so I primed/sprayed the fuselage walls then brush painted as many things as I could singly (oxygen bottles, throttles, various sticks and wheels, etc.) then glued them in. This FEELS like I'm making more work for myself, but it also means I'm not accidentally blobbing black on the fuselage wall where the oxygen tank attaches to it. Should I just get over myself and assemble everything as bare plastic, then prime/spray, then brush paint details?

# ¿ Apr 25, 2023 14:46

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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MyronMulch posted:

do it however gets the results you like within a time span you can tolerate.

Is this too long for a thread title? This is such a great piece of advice in general.

# ¿ Apr 25, 2023 17:52

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Keeping the newbie questions rolling:

Are themed paint sets (like the Vallejo "WWII allied colors") a good way to get a little bit of a discount while building up your paint collection, or are they a way for the paint company to package a few popular/needed colors with some random colors that you don't really need, that saves the buyer neither time nor money?

My process so far has been to look at instructions on scalemates to see what colors are needed and order whatever paints I don't have along with the kit I'm buying, but this requires time and concentration, since I've got to double check what colors I already have. I don't have enough colors on-hand to be confident that I've got something like "is a WWII era tank" covered with my selection.

I can also see a paint inventory spreadsheet (unless there's a good paint stash app?) in my near future.

# ¿ Apr 26, 2023 17:06

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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tidal wave emulator posted:

I use the Hobby Color Converter app on Android for keeping track of my paint stash.

I have literally been staring at that app while texting my wife back and forth trying to see if I had a color at home when my local store was out of the one I needed and STILL missed that it has an inventory feature.

tidal wave emulator posted:

if you're starting out and don't have a big paint stash it's probably a lot more worthwhile than if you end up buying it later down the line and duplicating paints you already have.

This makes sense. May be worth it to grab the one I linked since I don't have a lot of olive-y colors yet.

# ¿ Apr 26, 2023 19:15

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Clear up some confusion for me:

Beyond them being two different types of paint requiring different thinners/etc, is there any real use difference between lacquer and enamel?

I've always used acrylics and am happy with them, but am looking to try out the cheat/technique where you layer a highlight color under the acrylic then use a little water/alcohol/thinner to remove it from the high spots.

Does it matter of I use enamel or lacquer, or is just "is not acrylic" what matters?

# ¿ May 2, 2023 16:37

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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^^^ that's exactly what I'm trying to do, for raised cockpit details/surfaces and potentially for chipping.

My logic was definitely to have the more durable paint underneath with the acrylic on top.

Also, my head hurts with all of the variations of paint discussed since I posted!

# ¿ May 2, 2023 22:53

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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DRINK ME posted:

Is there any companies making modern kits / kits to modern standards of muscle cars or just older cars? American cars in particular as I know Tamiya has a few older Japanese cars but I don�t have much interest in them, even though I know the kits would be great.

I�ve got a real hankering to build a a cuda or something, but everything I get interested is AMT 80s tool. I did their 57 Chevy Belair years ago and it wasn�t great - lots of cleaning and it just doesn�t live up to modern model standards. I�m thinking I will have to just suck it up and do the extra work but I thought it was worth asking, maybe there�s something out there my local doesn�t have.

Funny you mention. I've had a low-end Revell 69 Camaro kit sitting on my shelf for years now and broke it out yesterday for something to do between layers of paint on Tamiya spitfire I'm working on.

Holy crap is it bad. Scalemates says it's a 1990 tool, and the molding is just kind of. . . mushy? Nothing fits right, the plastic is cheap, and the instructions are terrible. The only positive is it took me back to making crappy kits when I was a kid in the 80s.

Personally not super interested in cars, but the new Tamiya Nissan Fairlady is calling me a bit.

stealie72 fucked around with this message at 13:15 on May 3, 2023

# ¿ May 3, 2023 13:10

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Charliegrs posted:

I did the Challenger version of this kit and I went together like a dream. Almost like Tamiya like in quality.

But yeah for the most part if you're looking to build models of older American cars like 60s-80s you're going to be stuck with old tooled Revell and AMT/MPC models that are a pain in the rear end to build. The Japanese companies like Tamiya make great kits but they generally only offer kits for Japanese and European cars.

The two remaining old school local shops in my area are both packed to the gills with NOS muscle-era car models. I assume the market for these dropped off pretty quickly and dramatically?

# ¿ May 3, 2023 16:35

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Just ordered the Tamiya European Theatre Easy Eight tank and think I want to branch out into aftermarket decals since everyone and their brother has made this with the standard decals.

I specifically do not want to make Fury, and would like to keep WWII markings on it for reasons I'm not even sure of, so I don't have a lot of choice. I've found this set on ebay, but are Star Decals any good?

# ¿ May 9, 2023 16:56

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Timely chat. I just got some earth tone dollar store eyeshadow and will report back how well that works. Lot of cheap old dudes swear by it.

# ¿ May 10, 2023 16:37

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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tidal wave emulator posted:

If you have money to throw about

Let me stop you right there. I'm not exactly cheap, but I do get a special nerd thrill from finding the equivalent-but-cheaper version of things, so this is right up my personal alley.

Modeling seems especially tailored to this, BTW, especially thinking about the special place that Future floor polish holds in everyone's heart. Like, are the $20 glass files sold with a games workshop logo the same thing as the $4 ALLCAPS brand ones sold in the beauty supplies section? Only one way to find out.

# ¿ May 10, 2023 17:45

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Yeah, sorry, just threw out a random example and connected the GW logo being a way to sell a $3 thing for $15.

One of the modeling groups I'm in was talking about using glass files to quickly zip down little sprue marks after you've clipped a piece off them. On Amazon, glass files "for Gundam Military Model Hobby Polishing" are $12 for 2, while "Glass Nail Files for Natural Nails" are $19 for 5, or $30 for 10

# ¿ May 10, 2023 22:34

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Other than shipping being $40 is there anything to be wary about with Hobby Link Japan? Because their prices on many of the kits I want are basically 1/2 of what they cost in the US. After a few kits that $40 is no big deal.

# ¿ May 14, 2023 13:07

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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NTRabbit posted:

How do the prices compare to Plaza Japan? Because I've used that one with no issue

Whelp, got ALL excited about Plaza Japan because everything was even cheaper, but with the same cart PJ's shipping is $117, and HLJ's is $55.

# ¿ May 14, 2023 14:07

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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Is their private warehouse thing for real? Has anyone used it?

# ¿ May 14, 2023 16:20

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# ¿ May 3, 2024 10:21

stealie72: Jan 10, 2007; Their eyes locked and suddenly there was the sound of breaking glass.
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I had 5 kits show up from Sprue Brothers for my birthday this week so I'm looking at maybe ordering things and over the next few months so they show up for the fall/winter.

Just tested the water with the Tamiya Nissan Fairlady since they only had a couple in stock.

# ¿ May 14, 2023 20:12

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